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今秋时尚界掀起手袋皮草风

更新时间:2014-8-12 12:21:32 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

Fall Designer Handbag Trend Is Fur
今秋时尚界掀起手袋皮草风

If anything can be deemed utterly superfluous, it's a fur handbag. Tucking one's wallet and keys in mink or beaver is an act of pure let-them-eat-cake extravagance.

皮草手袋堪称是一种极尽奢华的物品。如果某人的钱包上饰有貂毛或海狸毛,可谓是简直奢侈到了“何不食肉糜”的地步。

So it makes sense that fur handbags would be a big trend for fall. Designers are competing to outdo one another in luxury. Among the new bling popping out all over is J. Mendel's $6,500 tote made of broadtail (the pelt of a very young lamb). Brunello Cuccinelli's mink backpack with two exterior pockets, priced at $7,830 from Neiman Marcus, might not make many children's back-to-school lists, but it marks the height of the trend.

皮草手袋成为秋季流行大势也在情理之中。设计师们竞相展示奢华。在这一轮新潮流中有J. Mendel家6,500美元的手提袋,该手提袋采用的是阔尾羔羊皮。Brunello Cuccinelli则推出了外部有两个口袋的貂皮双肩包,尼曼(Neiman Marcus)对其定价为7,830美元, 这样的双肩包或许不在小朋友返校需添置的物品之列,但却将奢华发挥到了极致。

Kenzo的一款皮草手袋,售价510美元。

Stores are stocked with furry bags from Valentino, Burberry, and Fendi. The fall collections, which begin arriving in stores in coming weeks, were a veritable parade of handbags made of fur from the likes of Marchesa, Fendi, Donna Karan, Marni and Derek Lam.

从华伦天奴(Valentino)、博柏利(Burberry)到芬迪(Fendi)众多品牌都推出了皮草手袋。未来几周各大名品店将陆续推出今秋新品,马切萨(Marchesa)、芬迪、唐娜-凯伦(Donna Karan)、Marni和Derek Lam等设计的皮草手袋将缤纷亮相。

A renewed appetite for luxury-even silly luxury-is an outgrowth of the sense among many wealthy consumers that the financial crisis has receded to a distant speck in their rearview mirrors. That sentiment is fueling many segments at the tippy top of the luxury industry. The made-to-order haute couture collections in Paris are experiencing a rebirth. Saks Fifth Avenue, no longer willing to settle for the merely aspirational client, is making itself over as a far more expensive, elite place to shop. Fashion brands report their most expensive products sell out first.

当今不少富有的消费者感觉,金融危机已经渐行渐远,于是便滋生了对奢侈品(其中一些甚至奢侈到不可思议)的欲望,刺激了奢侈品行业前沿众多相关领域。巴黎再度掀起定做高级女时装的风潮。萨克斯第五大道精品百货店(Saks Fifth Avenue)不再甘心于只为有强烈需求的客户服务,正在转型为价格更加高昂的精英购物场所。时尚品牌一般都表示,旗下最贵的产品销路最好。

But this isn't the logo-encrusted bling of the early naughts. It's far more sensual and much more costly, with a focus on rare materials such as crocodile, handmade lace, and animal pelts used in every way imaginable. Fur was flying down the runway on more than handbags in the fall collections. Oscar de la Renta did an embroidered, fur-hemmed flapper dress. Ralph Rucci lined a puffer coat in mink.

但这并不是以前那种印着醒目标识的高档产品。如今的产品更加感性,价格也更高昂,注重珍稀材料,诸如鳄鱼皮、手制蕾丝以及动物皮毛等。在秋季新品中,皮草还被用于手提包之外的产品中。Oscar de la Renta推出了一款皮草镶边的刺绣针织短裙。Ralph Rucci则推出了一款貂皮大衣。

A fur handbag is chubby, and it can risk being mistaken for a pet. As fashion trends go, this one borders on goofy-even before you've seen Fendi's $6,600 'Monster' baguette bag, which has a face and fuzzy eyebrows.

皮毛手袋看上去胖乎乎的,有可能会被误以为是宠物。就时装潮流而言,这样的手袋看上去有些怪怪的——即使你还没有见过芬迪售价6,600美元的“Monster” 长方形手袋,这款手袋外观像一张脸,还有毛绒绒的眉毛。

Why would so many designers, living all over the world, arrive at this concept at the identical time? Jason Wu, who had fur bags in his fall collection, says it's because designers are so clued into the cultural psyche and watch all the same consumer proclivities. 'We're like food processors,' he says. 'We take it all in and we spew out a cocktail.' Plus, he notes, last winter, when designers were creating their Fall 2014 collections, 'it was very cold.'

为何世界各地这么多的设计师在同一时间看中了这一概念?秋季新品中包含毛皮手袋的设计师吴季刚(Jason Wu)表示,这是因为设计师都非常了解文化心理,而且关注的也是相同的消费倾向。他说,设计师就像食品加工者,他们加入所有原料,然后调制出一杯鸡尾酒。他还说,另外,去年冬天设计师在设计2014年秋季新品时,天气非常寒冷。

Intense competition in the design industry forces hundreds of designers to make their products stand out. As a result, they sometimes lunge at outlandish ideas. Right now, the more opulent, the better.

设计行业的激烈竞争促使数以百计的设计师力争让自己的产品脱颍而出。因此,他们有时会有一些非常奇特的想法。如今的时尚界是越奢华越好。

It seems everyone wants in on the trend, even if they don't use fur. Stella McCartney, who is ardently anti-fur, used faux-fur in a houndstooth shoulder bag currently selling at Saks for $1,395.

似乎每个人都想赶上这一潮流,即使他们平时并不用皮草。例如,坚决抵制皮草的斯泰拉(Stella McCartney)也买了一个缀有人造皮草的犬牙花纹单肩包,这个包目前在Saks售价1,395美元。

High retail prices and changing attitudes toward fur will keep some of these bags limited in number compared with other 'it' bags presented in collections. Some retailers are stepping away from fur fashions, leaving labels to sell them directly, which most do anyway. Net-a-porter, the Web retailer that is often first to leap on outlandish runway looks, won't have any of the fur bags and is moving to eliminate most fur from the collections it sells this fall. It will sell pelts such as shearling, according to a person familiar with the retailer's plans.

然而,高昂的零售价和人们对皮草态度的变化不定将限制皮草手袋的数量,使之无法与其他类型的手袋比肩。一些零售商并未积极迎合皮草潮流,推出皮草手袋的品牌需要自己直接销售。据知情人士称,经常抢先发布古怪走秀款的网络零售商Net-a-porter不会摆出皮草手袋,而且正打算从今秋的产品展中撤下多数皮草,但羊毛等毛皮产品还是会卖的。

Vera Wang's cuddly black mink tote is listed as 'price upon request'- which is designer shorthand for 'come in and special-order it.' A spokeswoman confirms the bag wasn't produced for stores.

王薇薇(Vera Wang)设计的一款毛绒绒的黑色貂皮手袋被归为了“价格另洽”行列,意思就是设计师为上门特别订单赶制的。一位发言人证实,这款手袋不会用于零售店销售。

J. Mendel, though, is selling four memorable styles-two clutches and two totes-of color-blocked broadtail, with prices starting at $4,900 for a clutch made of the baby lamb and calf skin. Donna Karan's long-haired goat bag, looking like an adorable Cousin It, is priced at $1,995 (it should come with a comb).

J. Mendel品牌推出了四款令人印象深刻的包包,手包和手提包各两款。手提包材质用的是大块颜色的阔尾羔羊皮。一款手包用羔羊皮和小牛皮制成,起始定价4,900美元。Donna Karan的长毛山羊手包可以视为可爱版的Cousin It,定价1,995美元(其实应该配套出售一款梳子,梳理这么长的毛)。

With the weather still toasty, Saks has an array of fur bags available, from Burberry's adoptable-looking mink shoulder bag ($2,295) to Valentino's mink shoulder bag ($5,395). For shoppers who don't want to commit to the full trend, Fendi has augmented its fall menagerie of fur handbags with accessories to hang from any bag or even your rearview mirror-all made of fur, of course. There are ornamental balls and little monster faces, but the best is a miniature caricature of Karl Lagerfeld, the label's longtime designer, with white fur for his famous hair.

尽管依然是烈日炎炎,但消费者已经可以从Saks买到皮草手袋了,例如博柏利(Burberry)的貂皮单肩包(2,295美元)、华伦天奴(Valentino)的貂皮单肩包(售价5,395美元)。为吸引那些不想随大流的消费者,芬迪(Fendi)为其秋季皮草手包系列款式配备了各类挂饰,可以吊在任何手包甚至你的后视镜上——当然所有的挂饰也都是皮草做成的。你可以选择装饰品小球,还可以买小怪兽面具,但最棒的当属长期效力芬迪的设计师卡尔•拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)缩小版雕像,白色皮毛充当着他那著名的白发。

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