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舞会礼服之休闲风来袭

更新时间:2014-7-31 13:35:52 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

With Comfy, Cozy Ball Gowns, Formalwear Tries A Casual Turn
舞会礼服之休闲风来袭

As denim has replaced pinstripes in the workplace, one last bastion of formality has remained in fashion. Evening wear has kept women as trussed up and uncomfortable as ever.

随着粗斜纹棉布在工作场合取代条纹装,正式礼仪的最后一道堡垒还残存在时尚界。晚装仍一如既往地捆绑着各位女士,让她们感到不舒适。

But modern attitudes about comfort and versatility are breaking down formality's final fortress.

但有关舒适性和多功能性的现代化态度正在冲破正统礼节的最后要塞。

左图:哈尼(Haney)礼服使用了弹性材质,像可拉伸的丝绉。中图:古驰(Gucci)2015年度假系列包括一件时髦宽松的女式包身长裙。右图:卡罗琳娜·海莱娜(Carolina Herrera)2014春季系列展示了一条轻灵垂顺的长裙。

Consider the sporty look that designer Frida Giannini sent down Gucci's runway for spring -- a glittery combo of jumpsuit and track pants -- and a sleek modernist white gown in her current resort collection, which would look equally at ease with bare feet and with heels. For his fall collection for Akris, designer Albert Kriemler included long loose sheaths and handbags that were huge by evening-bag standards -- big enough for an iPad Mini.

回想一下设计师弗里达·贾娜妮(Frida Giannini)在古驰(Gucci)春装秀台上展示的运动造型服装——一套闪亮的紧身连衫和运动裤套装——以及在其当下度假系列中的一套极具现代主义风情的时髦白色礼服,不管是光脚穿还是配高跟鞋穿,这些衣装都一样让人感到轻松舒适。而在设计师阿尔伯特·克林姆勒(Albert Kriemler)为艾克瑞斯(Akris)设计的秋季系列中,则包含了宽松的长款女装和巨大的手包——以晚宴包的标准来看算是巨大,大得足以装下一个iPad Mini。

The emerging evening look might be called 'casual formal wear.' From loose, easy silhouettes -- such as some elegant floor-length sheaths from Carolina Herrera that border on muumuu shapes -- to fabrics like cotton and cashmere, evening clothes are finally getting the modern ease treatment. The look includes flat sandals, dressy bags large enough to hold a wallet as well as a phone, and comfy loose gowns.

近来兴起的晚装造型或许可以称为“休闲款正装”。从宽松、简单的轮廓——像来自卡罗琳娜·海莱娜(Carolina Herrera)品牌的一些近似于慕慕服(美国夏威夷的艳丽宽松女装)款型的优雅拖地长裙——到像棉和羊绒的衣物,晚装终于不再像以前那么拘谨。衣饰款式包括平跟凉鞋、考究的包——大到足以装下一个钱包和一部手机——以及舒适宽松的礼服。

'Comfort is getting so important,' says Rosetta Getty. 'I don't like poofy embellished gowns, but I want to feel beautiful and be appropriate.' She is a busy mother of four, wife of Getty scion and actor Balthazar Getty and a fashion designer whose clothes are sold at high-end boutiques including Ikram in Chicago and Forty Five Ten in Dallas. Her Rosetta Getty collection for fall includes a handful of gowns that look as snuggly as bathrobes, like one made of long-haired alpaca.

罗瑟塔·盖提(Rosetta Getty)说:“舒适性越来越重要了。我不喜欢脂粉气装扮的礼服,但我想觉得漂亮并且得体。”她是一位忙碌的母亲——四个孩子的妈妈,盖提后裔、演员巴萨扎·盖提(Balthazar Getty)的妻子,还是一位时尚设计师,她的衣装摆在包括芝加哥伊克拉玛(Ikram)、达拉斯(Dallas)Forty Five Ten在内的高档时装店内售卖。她的罗瑟塔·盖提秋装系列包括一小部分看起来像浴袍一样舒服的礼服,比如有一件就是由长毛羊驼制成的。

Another gown -- which she calls her 'apron' gown -- is made of checkered cotton dobby, a textured fabric rarely seen in evening gowns until recently. Designer Sophie Theallet has been using finely spun cotton in evening wear, a look she says is chic.

另一件礼服——被她称为“围裙”礼服——是由方格网纹全棉提花制成的,直到现在,用这种材质制成的衣物在晚礼服中也很少见。设计师苏菲·西莱特(Sophie Theallet)已在晚装中使用了细棉纱,这种款型被她称为时髦。

The concept of 'casual formal' sounds contradictory. Perhaps that is why the idea has taken so long to take hold. While Victorian fashion statements have long since vanished for daytime, the cummerbund and corset have lived on for evening.

“休闲正装”的概念听起来自相矛盾,也许这就是为什么这个概念花了这么长时间才被世人所接受的原因。虽然维多利亚时期(Victorian)贵族服饰的潮流在日装中销声匿迹已久,但腰带和紧身胸衣在晚装中却依旧风行。

Even as they wear Saint Laurent denim and James Perse hoodies to board meetings, women have been stuck in an uncomfortable fantasy world by night. The gowns can be so voluminous -- or unforgiving -- that they require practice to sit down. Sequins scratch. Heels pinch. Pencil skirts, when they fall to the ankle, can hobble a wearer who must wobble along with teeny-tiny steps. To climb the stairs at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art art gala last November, some guests in tight dresses resorted to walking sideways.

即使她们穿着 罗兰(Saint Laurent)斜纹粗棉布和詹姆士·珀思(James Perse)卫衣去参加董事会会议,但到了晚上,女士们还是会陷入到一个梦幻但不舒适的衣装世界中。那些礼服体积如此之庞大或者说不可忍受——以至于穿上它们以后得需要经过练习才能坐下去。亮片刮人,高跟鞋夹脚,而铅笔裙——当它们长至脚踝的时候,会让着装者步履蹒跚——她们必须得迈着小碎步摇晃着往前走。在去年11月登走洛杉矶郡立美术馆(Los Angeles County Museum of Art)艺术展的楼梯时,有些身着紧身裙的宾客只能侧身走。

Despite the advent of cellphones, wads of keys, and multiple credit and ID cards, evening handbags have long remained as tiny as they would be for a chauffeured woman who needed nothing but her lipstick and some cash. And what woman hasn't headed home late at night with her torturous heels in her hands, feet throbbing, looking forward to unzipping and breathing freely?

尽管有了手机、大把钥匙以及多种信用卡和身份证的出现,晚宴手包长期以来还是那么小巧——似乎它们的主人还是那些有着专车司机接送的女士,除了口红和现金,她们什么都不需要。但有哪位女士没有经历过这样的遭遇:深夜晚归,提着折磨人的高跟鞋,忍着脚痛,渴望拉开衣链然后自由呼吸?

But when Marni introduced a capsule, or mini, collection of evening wear last year, it included slacks and chunky flat sandals that looked sturdy enough to hike in. Those sandals owed a debt to Celine's earlier dressy Birkenstock-style sandals -- an early crossover from casual to dressy that may have been a harbinger of a new attitude toward dressed-up comfort.

但在去年,当玛尼(Marni)推出一个胶囊、或称为迷你晚装系列时,它包含了宽松的长裤和厚实的平跟凉鞋,这些看起来都够结实,能让她们徒步前行。那些凉鞋都参照了塞琳(Celine)早些时候推出的一款考究勃肯(Birkenstock)式凉鞋——早期的一款横跨休闲、时尚两界的凉鞋,它可能是既“要盛装出席”又“得舒适惬意”这种新态度的先驱。

Now, a peek at any major department store from Neiman Marcus to Macy's will reveal a healthy selection of formal flat shoes and sandals. Sergio Rossi, Christian Louboutin, Valentino and Stuart Weitzman all have them in current collections. There are even dressy flip-flops, such as the 'glitz evening flip-flop' from Blue by Betsey Johnson -- a rhinestone-studded, silver affair.

如今,去任何一家大百货公司——从内曼马库斯(Neiman Marcus)到梅西百货(Macy's) ——看一眼,就会发现有利于人体健康的正装平跟鞋和凉鞋系列。塞乔罗西(Sergio Rossi)、克里斯提鲁布托(Christian Louboutin)、华伦天奴(Valentino)和斯图尔特韦茨曼(Stuart Weitzman)在他们当下的系列中都有这样的鞋品。甚至还有考究的平底人字拖鞋,比如Blue by Betsey Johnson品牌的“浮华晚装平底人字拖” ——一双镶嵌着亮 的银鞋。

'It's like, what is the new nighttime?' says Mary Alice Haney, a stylist who worked with celebrities from Sarah Jessica Parker to Sharon Stone before launching her own label, Haney, recently.

玛丽·爱丽丝·哈尼(Mary Alice Haney)说:“这就像在问,新的夜间时光什么样?”玛丽是一名造型师,最近在筹建自己的品牌哈尼(Haney)。在这之前,她曾和莎拉·杰西卡·帕克(Sarah Jessica Parker)、莎朗·斯通(Sharon Stone)等名人一起工作过。

Ms. Haney, whose family owns estates including the former Vanderbilt estate near Palm Beach, Fla., has a busy social calendar and says she wants to be as comfortable at night as she is during the day, so her gowns avoid heavy seaming and structure and are made of fabrics such as stretch crepe de chine and stretch jersey. Haney is sold at Net-A-Porter and Neiman Marcus, among other locations.

哈尼家族拥有众多房产,包括靠近佛罗里达州棕榈滩(Palm Beach, Fla.)的范德比尔特(Vanderbilt)庄园。玛丽本人的社交行程繁忙,她说自己在晚间想要像在白天一样舒服。因此她的礼服避免了大量的缝合与繁复的构造,只由诸如可拉伸的双绉和弹力衫这样的面料制成。哈尼品牌的衣装在网络搬运工(Net-A-Porter)购物网站上和内曼马库斯店以及其他许多地方出售。

Of course, there are still plenty of waist-cinching or ankle-hobbling gowns out there. Zac Posen is a master of reinterpreting days-of-yore formal-gown fashions for a younger set who seek reliably alluring red-carpet looks. And it is unlikely that many actresses will wear hiking-sandal looks on the red carpet, no matter how many Swarovski crystal rhinestones are included.

当然,还是有许多掐腰勒肚或易伤脚踝的礼服。在为追寻诱人红地毯造型的年轻一代重新诠释经典怀旧正装礼服风尚方面,扎克·珀森(Zac Posen)是一位大师。在红地毯上,许多女演员不太会穿远足时穿的那种凉鞋,不管那双鞋上镶了多少施华洛维奇水晶水钻。

But for confident women, there are myriad choices these days. Ms. Getty is launching shoes for her spring 2015 collection that will include evening flats, such as a slipper-like one made of mohair.

但对于自信的女士们来说,现在有无数选择。盖提正在为自己2015年的春装系列创建鞋品,其中将包括晚装平底鞋——比如说由马海毛制成的拖鞋式的鞋子。

She also has included an evening coat in her fall 2014 collection, which is intended to be an antidote to tiny shrugs that warm only the shoulders and leave a woman shivering outdoors. She created a long evening coat of alpaca that can either be worn as a normal coat or left hanging like a cape, with the wearer's arms extending through slits.

她还在自己2014年的秋装系列中加了一件晚装大衣,这是为解决短小披肩的问题而设计的——那些小披肩只能让人的肩膀暖和些,导致女士们在户外瑟瑟发抖。她设计了一件长款羊驼毛晚装大衣,既能当成一件正常的大衣来穿,又能当成一件披肩来披,着装者可以将胳膊伸进侧缝中去。

She says her husband jokes that at any party, no matter how formal, he will find her chatting on a couch with her legs curled under her. 'I want to enjoy myself,' she says.

她说她的丈夫开玩笑称,在任何一次聚会上,不管是多正式的场合,他都会发现她在沙发上蜷着腿聊天。她说:“我就是想让自己享受享受。”

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