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夏季裙装 简单至上

更新时间:2014-7-8 21:38:04 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

Summertime, And The Dresses Are Easy
夏季裙装 简单至上

Carolina Herrera is one of those women who never seems to have a hair out of place. Nary a faded stain nor an unfortunate heel scuff is ever visible, yet the New York-based designer rarely appears strenuously dressed. So it's not surprising that this master of impeccable but not overdone style occasionally casts a critical eye upon those who are clearly trying too hard. 'Sometimes I look at women walking in the streets, and I say, 'How long did it take her to put that together?'' said Ms. Herrera with a laugh as she sat in the (also impeccable) office of her Seventh Avenue studio. 'For me, fashion should be effortless.'

卡罗琳娜·埃雷拉(Carolina Herrera)似乎是那种仪容从来都一丝不苟的女士。连褪色的污渍或者倒霉的鞋跟磨损痕迹都没有,但这位纽约的设计师却很少给人竭力打扮的感觉。因此,也难怪这位崇尚完美但不喜欢过分讲究的大师常常会向那些明显打扮过头的人投去批判性的眼光。埃雷拉坐在她位于第七大道的工作室的办公室(这里同样布置得无可挑剔)里,笑着说:“有时候看到街上的女人们,我会说‘她倒腾出这样一身装扮花了多长时间?’对我来说,时尚是轻松不费力的。”

Her edict isn't empty, however. Ms. Herrera is doing her part to take the effort out of chicness for the months to come. She has reprised her Archive Collection of crisp cotton dresses (and a few other pieces) that combine straightforward silhouettes with original prints from her archives. 'In warm weather, clothes should be simple and right to the point,' she added, 'to make you [look] more beautiful and not so fussy.'

这句宣言并不是空洞的口号,不过为了未来几个月的轻松时尚,埃雷拉是下了功夫的。她翻出了典藏系列(Archive Collection)的硬挺棉布裙以及其他几件单品,这些款式有着显而易见的轮廓,还有来自埃雷拉收藏的原版印花。她说:“天气热的时候,衣服应该简单而且突出重点,让自己看起来更漂亮,而不是过分挑剔。”

The designer has hit upon an obvious but brilliant summer-style truth: While it seems fun to pursue spring runway trends (pleats! shine! sporty couture!) in April or May, when it comes to the sticky thick of summer, a busy woman's ideal uniform is a timeless and easy-to-wear dress. The idea of wearing peplums or high-waisted trousers or ponyskin skirts seems like so much work when the forecast is 91 degrees with 100% humidity. That easy summer dress could be a sweet printed tea dress from Gucci or a minimal number from Calvin Klein. What's crucial is that it never strains to make a statement.

埃雷拉碰巧揭示了一个显而易见、却颇有道理的夏季时尚真理:虽然在4月或5月追逐春季时装秀的潮流(褶皱、闪亮、运动装)似乎很有意思,但到了黏黏糊糊的夏天,一位忙碌女士的理想着装应该是一条不会过时且易穿着的连衣裙。30多度的高温加上100%的湿度,穿褶?裙、高腰裤或小马驹皮裙似乎太费工夫了。好穿的夏季连衣裙可以是古弛(Gucci)的甜美印花茶花连衣裙,或者卡文·克莱(Calvin Klein)的极简风格连衣裙。关键是不要极力地彰显。

'It's still the dress that we reach for when summer hits,' said Bergdorf Goodman senior vice president and women's fashion director, Linda Fargo. 'And that shows on [the store's] balance sheets.' This season, the New York department store devoted a window to Ms. Herrera's Archive collection and, Ms. Fargo noted, is also doing well with abstract printed dresses from Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto as well as florals from Dries Van Noten and MSGM.

纽约精品百货店波道夫·古德曼(Bergdorf Goodman)高级副总裁及女装时尚总监琳达·法戈(Linda Fargo)说:“这类款式依然是我们在夏天到来时喜欢穿的裙子。公司的收支账目上体现得也很清楚。”本季波道夫·古德曼为埃雷拉的典藏系列专设了一个橱窗。法戈表示,玛丽·卡特兰佐(Mary Katrantzou)和彼得·皮洛托(Peter Pilotto)的抽象印花连衣裙以及德赖斯·范诺顿(Dries Van Noten)和MSGM的花卉图案连衣裙也卖得很好。

A number of designers populate their commercially focused resort collections with similar trends-be-damned dresses. Prada, like Carolina Herrera, started doing an annual collection of '50s-style cotton poplin dresses in vintage-inspired prints in 2010. There are two deliveries of the collection -- one in mid-April and another in June -- to ensure that Prada stores are supplied into the summer. The latest collection, about to arrive, is patterned with geometric scarf motifs.

很多设计师在注重商业效益的度假系列中植入了类似不受潮流待见的连衣裙。和卡罗琳娜·埃雷拉一样,普拉达(Prada)从2010年开始设计一个50年代风格的棉府绸复古印花连衣裙年度系列。该系列分两批推出——分别在四月中旬和6月——以确保普拉达门店供货能持续到夏季。即将推出的最新系列是几何嵌接图案设计。

To provide her clientele with dresses of proven ease, designer Saloni Lodha, who is based in both London and Hong Kong, allows stores to order past hits from her label, Saloni, in new colors. The Iris, a color-blocked maxi that Ms. Lodha has been making for three years, rarely fails to sell out. The same is true, she said, of a sleeveless shirtdress style, the Tilda, and a belted, long-sleeve version, the Katrina. 'I've always stuck to the philosophy that if a shape works, we don't have to reinvent every season,' said Ms. Lodha.

为了给客户提供易穿的连衣裙,常驻伦敦和香港的Saloni品牌设计师索拉尼·洛德哈(Saloni Lodha)允许店铺订购新增色彩的往季热门款式。洛德哈生产了三年的Iris拼色长裙从来都是销售一空。她说,无袖衬衣式连衣裙Tilda、还有腰带长袖连衣裙Katrina也是一样。洛德哈说:“我一直秉持这样的理念:如果一个款式很受欢迎的话,没有必要每一季都重新设计。”

One retailer well versed in the definition of the perfect summer dress is Laura Vinroot Poole, owner of boutique Capitol in Charlotte, N.C. 'It's hot where we live,' she said. 'The humidity isn't great for your hair and your mascara is melting off, but you've got this gorgeous floral dress that's a great distraction.'

北卡罗来纳州夏洛特(Charlotte)精品店Capitol店主劳拉·温鲁特·普尔(Laura Vinroot Poole) 是一位完美掌握夏季连衣裙概念精髓的零售商。她说:“我们住的地方很热。湿度对头发不好,睫毛膏也会花掉,但是一件漂亮的印花裙会很好地分散别人的注意力。”

Her favorites come from Dolce & Gabbana ('just beautiful'), Marni ('a no-brainer') and Oscar de la Renta, whose classic cotton dresses have her clients on tenterhooks before they arrive in stores. She also extols New York design duo Suno's relatively inexpensive pieces. '[They make] the quintessential summer dress, in crazy florals and trimmed in rickrack,' she said. 'You could wear it to a wedding. You could wear it to work.'

她最喜欢的款式来自杜嘉班纳(Dolce & Gabbana)(“就是漂亮”)、玛尼(Marni)(“简单大方”)和奥斯卡·德拉伦塔(Oscar de la Renta),这些品牌的经典棉质连衣裙还没到店,她的顾客们就如坐针毡了。她还喜欢纽约设计品牌Suno相对便宜的连衣裙。她说:“他们设计的是典型的夏季连衣裙,夸张的花卉图案,还有精心修饰的荷叶边。参加婚礼和上班都可以穿。”

Perhaps the most convincing and often-heard argument for the summer dress is its all-occasion versatility. It goes with flats or heels, and works for day or night. 'If you have a nice dress, you can go to the doctor, you can go to work, you can go to a cocktail party,' said author and political commentator Rula Jebreal. '[A dress] covers so many aspects of our lives. Today, we don't have time to go home to change.'

也许支持夏季连衣裙最令人信服和最长听到的论据就是它可以应付任何场合的多功能性。它可以搭配平底鞋或高跟鞋,白天晚上都能穿。作家及政治评论家鲁拉·加布里尔(Rula Jebreal)说:“如果有条漂亮的裙子,可以穿着去看医生,可以穿着上班,也可以穿着参加鸡尾酒会。一条裙子可以适用于这么多的场合。如今我们没有时间回家换衣服了。”

Ms. Jebreal, who favors frocks from Dolce & Gabbana and New York designer Sophie Theallet, said she wears dresses daily from mid-March through the end of September. 'I believe you can be comfortable and chic at the same time,' she said.

加布里尔偏爱杜嘉·班纳(Dolce & Gabbana)和纽约设计师索菲·西奥雷(Sophie Theallet)的连衣裙。她说从3月中旬到9月底她每天都穿连衣裙。她说:“我觉得舒适和时尚可以兼顾。”

Though ease is key to the ideal summer dress, a great one isn't necessarily easy to make, as New York designer Lela Rose, pointed out. 'We're not cutting basic sheaths in solid colors,' said Ms. Rose, who is known for her dresses. One of her supposedly easy spring frocks that sold out on e-commerce site Net-a-Porter was made of a yellow tweed woven with raffia and laminated yarn. In other words, not so simple. And while her silhouettes aren't tricky, she has perfected the clean, flattering shapes over the years.

虽然易穿是理想夏季连衣裙的关键,但正如纽约设计师莱拉·罗斯(Lela Rose)所指出的,一件好的连衣裙做起来不一定容易。以连衣裙著称的罗斯说:“我们并不是只在剪裁纯色的基本款连衣裙。”她有一条春季连衣裙在电子商务网站Net-a-Porter销售一空,这条看似简单的连衣裙是用黄色花呢和拉菲草及层压纱线编织而制成,也就是说并不简单。虽然裙子整洁而修身的轮廓并不复杂,但却经过了多年的完善。

Jane Pendry, founder of the Paris-based dress label Dovima, is another designer who makes deceptively easy frocks. 'If you find the dress that fits you in the right places, you feel like it's fixing your silhouette,' said Ms. Pendry who worked for the designer Yves Saint Laurent for three years, and now sells her wares in biannual private sales. Both Dovima and Lela Rose are high-end labels. But ideally one would amass a wardrobe of dresses without breaking the budget. You can find excellent, reasonably priced options from labels like Suno, Saloni, Apiece Apart and even H&M.

巴黎连衣裙品牌Dovima创始人简·彭德雷(Jane Pendry)是另一位设计看似简单连衣裙的设计师。她曾为伊夫· ·洛朗(Yves Saint Laurent)工作过三年,目前采取每年两次私密特卖会的方式销售自己的商品。她说:“如果找到了适合自己的连衣裙,会感觉裙子是在修饰你的轮廓。”Dovima和莱拉·罗斯都是高端品牌。但每个人都希望在预算范围内积累一整个衣橱的连衣裙。你可以在Suno、Saloni、Apiece Apart甚至H&M找到很好的、价格合理的选择。

How to cover up that perfect dress when dealing with air-conditioned chill is the last piece of the puzzle. Capitol's Ms. Vinroot Poole is an advocate of a great military jacket for its ability to cut the sweetness of a floral dress. She also advocates colorful cashmere shawls, which she buys custom-dyed to match her inventory. 'Spring and summer is, oddly, my biggest season for shawls.'

应对空调冷气时如何遮盖完美的连衣裙是最后一道谜题。Capitol的温鲁特推崇军装式夹克,因为它能够中和印花裙的甜美。她还推崇各种颜色的羊绒披肩,她会购买定制颜色款以搭配不同款式的连衣裙。她说:“虽然有点奇怪,但春夏是我用到披肩最多的季节。”

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