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世界杯开幕在即 巴西为何还不兴奋?

更新时间:2014-6-11 14:54:48 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

How Come Brazil Isn't Excited Yet?
世界杯开幕在即 巴西为何还不兴奋?

Most of the national soccer teams have arrived. Gaggles of journalists from Russia to Japan prowl the cities. Brazilian workers are hastily putting the finishing touches on the stadiums. But just two days before the World Cup opens here on Thursday, one crucial thing was still missing: atmosphere.

大多数参赛的国家足球队都已经抵达。从俄罗斯到日本的各国记者也徘徊在各个主办城市。巴西的工人们正忙于体育场的收尾工作。但是离周四世界杯开赛只剩两天,巴西却仍然缺乏一样至关重要的东西:气氛。

From the laid-back beaches of Rio de Janeiro, which hosts the Cup final, to the button-down streets of Sao Paulo, which hosts the opening match, this soccer-mad country is surprisingly subdued on the eve of hosting the world's largest sporting event, one that Brazil has won a record five times.

巴西即将举办世界最大规模的体育赛事,而且巴西国家队也以五次夺冠的历史创下世界杯纪录,然而从无论是世界杯决赛举办城市里约热内卢的悠闲海滩,还是揭幕战所在的圣保罗无趣的街道,这个为足球疯狂的国家出人意料地沉闷。

So far, the streets and passing cars lack the usual decorations that festoon Brazilian cities during past World Cups, when just about every house or shop put up the yellow and green colors of the Brazilian flag to cheer on the national team.

以前在世界杯期间,巴西各个城市会张灯结彩,几乎每栋房子或商店都会刷上巴西国旗的黄色和绿色来给国家队打气;而今年到现在为止,在街道和过往的车辆上都不怎么能看到以往的那些装扮。

'It doesn't even look like we have a Cup in Brazil or any Cup at all,' said Mireille Cillo, a 32-year-old tax lawyer buying shirts at a mall along Avenida Paulista, Sao Paulo's central avenue. Most of the stores at the mall featured decorations for Valentine's Day, which in Brazil is celebrated June 12, rather than the World Cup.

32岁的税务律师西洛(Mireille Cillo)正在圣保罗中心街道Avenida Paulista上的一个商场买衬衫。他说道,这看起来甚至都不像巴西要举办世界杯、或者任何什么赛事的样子。该商场多数商店都挂着情人节(巴西情人节为6月12日)、而不是世界杯的装饰。

The glum mood reflects the mixed feelings that many Brazilians have about this tournament and the state of their country. Brazil is still soccer-mad, but they are also mad -- as in angry -- at how their own government and FIFA, soccer's global governing body, organized these games, with billions of dollars having been spent on state-of-the-art stadiums in a developing country where health care and education lag. The total bill is $11.5 billion and counting.

这种阴沉的气氛反映了许多巴西人对世界杯和本国状况的复杂感受。巴西依然为足球而疯狂,但同样让他们疯狂(是气得发疯)的是本国政府以及国际足联(FIFA)对本次比赛的组织——在一个医疗和教育落后的发展中国家砸进几十亿美元修建最高水准的体育场。账单总额已经达到了115亿美元,而且还在上升。

'I have always gotten World Cup fever -- I adore soccer,' said Juliano Escobar, a 32-year-old stockbroker in Sao Paulo. 'But this year I'm really down on Brazil, not in soccer terms, but as a country, and I think that has affected the atmosphere. I have never seen this city so subdued before a World Cup.'

圣保罗的32岁股票经纪人埃斯科巴尔(Juliano Escobar)说,他一直为世界杯而狂热,热爱足球;但是今年他对巴西真的很失望,不是说足球队、而是对巴西这个国家失望,他认为这种感觉影响了气氛。他还说,他从未见到这个城市在世界杯前夜如此阴郁。

Atmosphere is critical to any World Cup. Much of that comes from visiting fans decked out in everything from the sombreros of Mexican fans to the kilts of Scotland's traveling Tartan Army. But the host nation plays a big part as well. The streets of Italian cities were a sea of green, white and red in 1990, and it was hard to find a car or cafe in South Africa without a flag four years ago.

对于任何一届世界杯来说,气氛都至关重要。这种气氛在很大程度上来自到访的外国球迷的种种装扮,从墨西哥球迷的宽檐帽到苏格兰“格子军团”的方格短裙。但主办国也在其中发挥了重要作用。1990年意大利世界杯期间,该国城市的街道是绿色、白色和红色的海洋,而四年前的南非街头几乎找不到没插旗帜的汽车或咖啡馆。

Terie Prout, a 29-year-old fan from England, said she boarded a plane for Rio expecting a festive atmosphere. 'We just thought there would be lots of big parties everywhere, on the streets and on the beaches,' she said, adding that the rowdiest fans have been fans from other countries, like Mexico. 'It hasn't been as festive as we expected . . . but I guess it will get better in the next few days.'

来自英格兰的29岁球迷普劳特(Terie Prout)说,在登上来里约热内卢的飞机时她期待着这里的欢快气氛。她说,他们以为这里的街道、海滩到处都有许多大规模派对,并说这里最喧闹的球迷是来自墨西哥等其他国家的球迷。她表示,这里的气氛不像预期的那么欢快,不过估计未来几天会好一些。

Even before kickoff, this is shaping up as an unusual Cup. In Rio, contingents of foreign fans decked out in their colors roamed the beaches on Tuesday. Nearby, large black-and-white soccer-ball balloons painted with red crosses were anchored to the beach in protest, along with banners reading: 'World Cup in a country of misery, financed by public money, is a moral problem.'

虽然尚未开赛,这届世界杯已经显得不同寻常。周二在里约热内卢,成群结队的外国球迷穿着自己国家球队标志色彩的服装在海滩漫步。不远处是足球形状的黑白两色大气球,上面涂着红叉,这些气球被固定在海滩上以示抗议,还配了标语,上面写着:在一个穷困的国家举办以公款出资的世界杯是个道德问题。

The mood is likely to brighten once Brazil's Selecao takes the field on Thursday against Croatia. Many Brazilians say they will still put on a good party -- even if they are down on their country. And it is hard to imagine that watching giant screens along Rio's beaches won't be an exhilarating atmosphere for foreign visitors.

等到巴西国家队“桑巴军团”(Selecao)周四上场对阵克罗地亚时,气氛可能会好起来。许多巴西人表示自己还是会尽情享受欢乐时光——尽管他们对自己的国家感到失望。对于外国游客来说,在里约热内卢的海滩上通过大屏幕观看球赛的体验肯定会让他们兴奋无比。

'The World Cup is going to happen anyway. So why not take advantage of it?' said Patricia Casaes, a 36-year-old stay-at-home mom who was buying the Brazilian jersey for her family at a bustling street fair in downtown Sao Paulo. 'Starting Thursday, everyone here is going to get very excited and they will forget about the problems and the protests. Everyone will be in the World Cup mood.'

36岁的全职妈妈Patricia Casaes说,世界杯无论如何都会举行,干嘛不好好利用这个机会呢?她说,从周四开始,这里的所有人都会变得极其兴奋,他们会忘掉那些问题和抗议,大家都会沉浸在世界杯的氛围中。她在圣保罗市中心一个热闹的街头集市为家人选购巴西队队服。

But the fact that so many Brazilians have mixed feelings is a testament to how the country has changed, and how global sporting events are facing increasing pushback from the very populations that are asked to underwrite them by organizations like FIFA.

然而,众多巴西人都对世界杯抱着复杂的感情,这一事实证明了巴西的变化,以及全球体育赛事正面临着主办国民众越来越大的反对情绪。FIFA等组织要求主办国为赛事出资。

'I think that Brazil has evolved. Football is our passion, but we no longer have the same dependence on it that we had in the past, when it was said we were a nation of football,' said Rogerio Amato, head of a business confederation for the state of Sao Paulo.

圣保罗州一个商业联合会的负责人阿马托(Rogerio Amato)说:我认为巴西已经进步了;足球是我们的激情所在,但我们不像以往我们被说成足球国度时那样依赖它。

When Brazil won the right to host the Cup in 2007, everyone imagined that the atmosphere would be incredible in the country that produced Pele and legions of other soccer greats. But much has changed here. A year ago, roughly a million Brazilians took to the streets to rail against the country's poor public services even as the tab for the Cup grew. Mass protests have since died off, but pockets of hard-core Black Bloc protesters still take to the streets. And scores of recent strikes have added to the tension, including a subway strike in Sao Paulo that threatens to snarl traffic on game days.

2007年巴西赢得本届世界杯主办权时,所有人都想像着,这个孕育了球王贝利(Pele)和众多伟大球员的国家将会出现无与伦比的热情气氛。但巴西已经有了很大的变化。一年前,大约100万巴西人走上街头,抗议在世界杯开支不断增加的同时,巴西公共服务依然贫乏。在那之后没有再出现大规模抗议活动,但以一身黑色打扮为标志的小群顽固派抗议者仍不时走上街头。最近的大量罢工行动也加剧了紧张形势,其中圣保罗的地铁工人罢工可能会导致比赛日的交通混乱。

'We had a very different atmosphere in years past than now. Before, we didn't have Black Blocs, we didn't have waves of strikes, we didn't have protests of 30 people paralyzing a city,' said Amato, adding that many storekeepers were afraid that putting up World Cup decorations might invite vandalism from protesters.

阿马托说,过去的很多年与现在的气氛大不相同;以前没有顽固抗议者,没有罢工浪潮,也没有30个人的抗议就让一个城市瘫痪的经历。他还说,很多店主担心布置世界杯主题装饰可能招致抗议者的破坏活动。

Soccer is, for better or for worse, so much a part of Brazilian lifestyle that it is difficult to separate the spectacle of the World Cup from the mood of the country. A June Pew Research Center study showed that 72% of Brazilians are dissatisfied with the way things are going in their country. At this time last year, the figure was 55%.

无论如何,足球在很大程度上都是巴西生活方式的一部分,因此很难将世界杯的景观与巴西的整体气氛分离开来。皮尤研究中心(Pew Research Center)今年6月的一项研究显示,72%的巴西人对于本国现状不满。去年同期这一比例为55%。

Meanwhile, the majority of public opinion about Brazil's economy has soured for the first time since 2010, according to Pew. Two-thirds of respondents to the center's survey said the country's economy was in bad shape, compared with 41% a year earlier.

与此同时,皮尤的研究显示,大多数公众对巴西经济的看法自2010年以来首次恶化。接受皮尤调查的受访者中,有三分之二的人表示巴西经济状况不佳,上年同期的比例为41%。

Danilo Goncalves, 46, was riding bicycles with his son along Copacabana on Tuesday in matching yellow shirts showing their support for the Brazilian team. He said he agrees with the protests, but that they won't dampen his spirits.

周二,46岁的冈卡尔维斯(Danilo Goncalves)与儿子一起沿着科帕卡巴纳海滩(Copacabana)骑自行车,他们穿着同款黄色上衣,以此展示对巴西队的支持。冈卡尔维斯说,他同意抗议者的意见,但这些看法并不会让他灰心。

'Brazilians are happy, including me and my son. I agree with the protests, but it's not the time right now,' he said, chanting 'Brazil! Brazil!' before riding off.

他说,巴西人很高兴,包括他和他儿子。他同意抗议者的看法,但现在不是适当的时机。他高呼“巴西!巴西!”,然后骑车离去。

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