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世界杯开幕在即 巴西为何还不兴奋?

更新时间:2014-6-11 14:54:48 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

How Come Brazil Isn't Excited Yet?
世界杯开幕在即 巴西为何还不兴奋?

Most of the national soccer teams have arrived. Gaggles of journalists from Russia to Japan prowl the cities. Brazilian workers are hastily putting the finishing touches on the stadiums. But just two days before the World Cup opens here on Thursday, one crucial thing was still missing: atmosphere.


From the laid-back beaches of Rio de Janeiro, which hosts the Cup final, to the button-down streets of Sao Paulo, which hosts the opening match, this soccer-mad country is surprisingly subdued on the eve of hosting the world's largest sporting event, one that Brazil has won a record five times.


So far, the streets and passing cars lack the usual decorations that festoon Brazilian cities during past World Cups, when just about every house or shop put up the yellow and green colors of the Brazilian flag to cheer on the national team.


'It doesn't even look like we have a Cup in Brazil or any Cup at all,' said Mireille Cillo, a 32-year-old tax lawyer buying shirts at a mall along Avenida Paulista, Sao Paulo's central avenue. Most of the stores at the mall featured decorations for Valentine's Day, which in Brazil is celebrated June 12, rather than the World Cup.

32岁的税务律师西洛(Mireille Cillo)正在圣保罗中心街道Avenida Paulista上的一个商场买衬衫。他说道,这看起来甚至都不像巴西要举办世界杯、或者任何什么赛事的样子。该商场多数商店都挂着情人节(巴西情人节为6月12日)、而不是世界杯的装饰。

The glum mood reflects the mixed feelings that many Brazilians have about this tournament and the state of their country. Brazil is still soccer-mad, but they are also mad -- as in angry -- at how their own government and FIFA, soccer's global governing body, organized these games, with billions of dollars having been spent on state-of-the-art stadiums in a developing country where health care and education lag. The total bill is $11.5 billion and counting.


'I have always gotten World Cup fever -- I adore soccer,' said Juliano Escobar, a 32-year-old stockbroker in Sao Paulo. 'But this year I'm really down on Brazil, not in soccer terms, but as a country, and I think that has affected the atmosphere. I have never seen this city so subdued before a World Cup.'

圣保罗的32岁股票经纪人埃斯科巴尔(Juliano Escobar)说,他一直为世界杯而狂热,热爱足球;但是今年他对巴西真的很失望,不是说足球队、而是对巴西这个国家失望,他认为这种感觉影响了气氛。他还说,他从未见到这个城市在世界杯前夜如此阴郁。

Atmosphere is critical to any World Cup. Much of that comes from visiting fans decked out in everything from the sombreros of Mexican fans to the kilts of Scotland's traveling Tartan Army. But the host nation plays a big part as well. The streets of Italian cities were a sea of green, white and red in 1990, and it was hard to find a car or cafe in South Africa without a flag four years ago.


Terie Prout, a 29-year-old fan from England, said she boarded a plane for Rio expecting a festive atmosphere. 'We just thought there would be lots of big parties everywhere, on the streets and on the beaches,' she said, adding that the rowdiest fans have been fans from other countries, like Mexico. 'It hasn't been as festive as we expected . . . but I guess it will get better in the next few days.'

来自英格兰的29岁球迷普劳特(Terie Prout)说,在登上来里约热内卢的飞机时她期待着这里的欢快气氛。她说,他们以为这里的街道、海滩到处都有许多大规模派对,并说这里最喧闹的球迷是来自墨西哥等其他国家的球迷。她表示,这里的气氛不像预期的那么欢快,不过估计未来几天会好一些。

Even before kickoff, this is shaping up as an unusual Cup. In Rio, contingents of foreign fans decked out in their colors roamed the beaches on Tuesday. Nearby, large black-and-white soccer-ball balloons painted with red crosses were anchored to the beach in protest, along with banners reading: 'World Cup in a country of misery, financed by public money, is a moral problem.'


The mood is likely to brighten once Brazil's Selecao takes the field on Thursday against Croatia. Many Brazilians say they will still put on a good party -- even if they are down on their country. And it is hard to imagine that watching giant screens along Rio's beaches won't be an exhilarating atmosphere for foreign visitors.


'The World Cup is going to happen anyway. So why not take advantage of it?' said Patricia Casaes, a 36-year-old stay-at-home mom who was buying the Brazilian jersey for her family at a bustling street fair in downtown Sao Paulo. 'Starting Thursday, everyone here is going to get very excited and they will forget about the problems and the protests. Everyone will be in the World Cup mood.'

36岁的全职妈妈Patricia Casaes说,世界杯无论如何都会举行,干嘛不好好利用这个机会呢?她说,从周四开始,这里的所有人都会变得极其兴奋,他们会忘掉那些问题和抗议,大家都会沉浸在世界杯的氛围中。她在圣保罗市中心一个热闹的街头集市为家人选购巴西队队服。

But the fact that so many Brazilians have mixed feelings is a testament to how the country has changed, and how global sporting events are facing increasing pushback from the very populations that are asked to underwrite them by organizations like FIFA.


'I think that Brazil has evolved. Football is our passion, but we no longer have the same dependence on it that we had in the past, when it was said we were a nation of football,' said Rogerio Amato, head of a business confederation for the state of Sao Paulo.

圣保罗州一个商业联合会的负责人阿马托(Rogerio Amato)说:我认为巴西已经进步了;足球是我们的激情所在,但我们不像以往我们被说成足球国度时那样依赖它。

When Brazil won the right to host the Cup in 2007, everyone imagined that the atmosphere would be incredible in the country that produced Pele and legions of other soccer greats. But much has changed here. A year ago, roughly a million Brazilians took to the streets to rail against the country's poor public services even as the tab for the Cup grew. Mass protests have since died off, but pockets of hard-core Black Bloc protesters still take to the streets. And scores of recent strikes have added to the tension, including a subway strike in Sao Paulo that threatens to snarl traffic on game days.


'We had a very different atmosphere in years past than now. Before, we didn't have Black Blocs, we didn't have waves of strikes, we didn't have protests of 30 people paralyzing a city,' said Amato, adding that many storekeepers were afraid that putting up World Cup decorations might invite vandalism from protesters.


Soccer is, for better or for worse, so much a part of Brazilian lifestyle that it is difficult to separate the spectacle of the World Cup from the mood of the country. A June Pew Research Center study showed that 72% of Brazilians are dissatisfied with the way things are going in their country. At this time last year, the figure was 55%.

无论如何,足球在很大程度上都是巴西生活方式的一部分,因此很难将世界杯的景观与巴西的整体气氛分离开来。皮尤研究中心(Pew Research Center)今年6月的一项研究显示,72%的巴西人对于本国现状不满。去年同期这一比例为55%。

Meanwhile, the majority of public opinion about Brazil's economy has soured for the first time since 2010, according to Pew. Two-thirds of respondents to the center's survey said the country's economy was in bad shape, compared with 41% a year earlier.


Danilo Goncalves, 46, was riding bicycles with his son along Copacabana on Tuesday in matching yellow shirts showing their support for the Brazilian team. He said he agrees with the protests, but that they won't dampen his spirits.

周二,46岁的冈卡尔维斯(Danilo Goncalves)与儿子一起沿着科帕卡巴纳海滩(Copacabana)骑自行车,他们穿着同款黄色上衣,以此展示对巴西队的支持。冈卡尔维斯说,他同意抗议者的意见,但这些看法并不会让他灰心。

'Brazilians are happy, including me and my son. I agree with the protests, but it's not the time right now,' he said, chanting 'Brazil! Brazil!' before riding off.