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伦敦男人街上的百年老店

更新时间:2014-6-3 13:21:56 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

London Shops Offer Men Old-Fashioned Grooming Products
伦敦男人街上的百年老店

Like all good travel discoveries, my latest began with a wrong turn. On a recent morning in London, I was walking down Piccadilly toward Regent Street when I swung right too soon and found myself in St. James's, a men's shopping district that probably should have disappeared decades ago.

All along Jermyn Street (the narrow main drag) and its cross-streets were shops devoted to the art of masculinity. Spiffy-looking guys of all ages were hurrying along in suits, en route to pre-work visits to men's shops. They had plenty to choose from: purveyors of cuff links (Longmire), custom-made shoes (Foster & Son), dress shirts (Hawes & Curtis), formal hats (Bates) and even medieval arms and armor (Peter Finer). But the stores that most captivated me were the grooming establishments jammed to the ceilings with personal-care products, many first concocted centuries ago.

In New York, where I live, better men's products are sold deep within department-store cosmetics sections or at upscale drugstores -- both of which lack a male vibe. American shops also have little history, and their clerks tend to be bereft of expertise. The shops I visited in St. James's could trace their lineage back hundreds of years; their staffers were dressed to the nines and full of fatherly advice.

Once scattered throughout fashionable London, men's grooming shops began to cluster in St. James's in the mid-1700s to meet the needs of St. James's Palace -- the nearby residence of male monarchs-in-waiting (and where Prince Charles lives today). 'St. James's was one of the first elite shopping areas in London,' said Jessica Clark, an assistant professor of history at Ontario's Brock University who specializes in 19th-century beauty and grooming. Over time, the area became the male cradle of Brit style and, by extension, America's preppy, collegiate and 'Mad Men' looks.

Among the first businesses were hairdressers and perfumeries for male courtiers and aristocrats; the mix widened in the late 1700s with the rise of the mercantile class. Manufacturing advances in the late 1800s allowed stores to market packaged goods, and line extensions followed in the 20th century, according to Robert Bucholz, author of 'London: A Social and Cultural History, 1550-1750.' Today, the neighborhood is still referred to as Clubland for its preponderance of high-society men's clubs that date to the 19th century.

It's only fitting that the mystique of club life would seep into long-standing grooming establishments and their products. As I entered each shop, I was met by the scents of shave creams, shampoos, talcs, fragrances and hair and skin-care products. The hushed, self-assured environments conjured images of vintage sports cars, old libraries and Cary Grant movies. I learned a few things along the way: If you're traveling, it's best to pack your purchases in a bag you intend to check, or buy them online. Grooming isn't a science, it's a religion. And, I may be permanently ruined for chain drugstores.

English Lather

Hair-centric Taylor of Old Bond Street opened in 1854, moving to Jermyn Street in the 1950s. 'The area has come a long way,' said managing director Barry Klein. 'In the 1960s, men shouted in outrage when younger women had their hair done in shops here,' he said. 'They viewed the neighborhood as an extension of their clubs.' Glass-and-wood cabinets line the walls of the shop, and are laden with hair tonics, brushes, conditioners, badger-hair shaving brushes and soapy-smelling colognes. A woody-citrusy scent drifts in from the backroom barbershop. I bought a tea-scented pre-shave gel and a pine bath essence that reminded me of Alpine hikes. I also came across a tiny, ingenious rake-like tool for cleaning hair from brushes and an alum block bearing the image of Mr. Klein's 18-year-old son using a straightedge razor. 'Me, I use a Gillette Mach3,' Mr. Klein said. 'Much safer.' 74 Jermyn St., tayloroldbondst.co.uk

Eau de Rx

Billed as London's oldest pharmacy, D.R. Harris & Co. opened in 1790. The shop, which still fills prescriptions, has a more medicinal smell than the others, but that only adds to its scrubbed allure. Into my basket went a bottle of low-alcohol pink aftershave with a faint rose scent, a bar of almond-oil soap and exfoliating cream for rough heels and elbows. 'Some of our products use old recipes, like Milk of Cucumber & Roses skin cream and shaving soaps with tallow,' said sales and marketing director Julian Moore. 'We still get calls for our Pick-Me-Up hangover remedy, but we discontinued it years ago. The recipe was a bit dodgy.' 35 Bury St., drharris.co.uk

Antique Car Cream

Upon entering Truefitt & Hill, which was established in 1805, I noticed that the cushy barbershop in back was several times as large as the front area for products. Which makes sense, since this is the world's oldest barbershop, according to the 'Guinness Book of World Records.' Among the shelf items was an oil-free C.A.R. Cream, formulated in 1900 to help members of London's Royal Automobile Club keep their hair in place in topless automobiles. I don't own a convertible, but I took it anyway, along with a scented, bright-green Monte Carlo hair oil that sparkled when shaken. 'Many people still find our jars and bottles from the early 20th century along the Thames or in gardens and send them in,' said Roxanne Lautenbach, head of international sales and strategy. 71 St. James's St., truefittandhill.com

Trimmers and Wax

Perfumer George Trumper opened his first store in nearby Mayfair in 1875 and soon expanded to St. James's. Like Truefitt & Hill and Taylor, Geo. F. Trumper offers wet shaves and straightedge razor training in its barbershop. In addition to shaving creams, shampoos and fragrances, the narrow store carries a wide range of clever accessories, including a bullet-size, battery-free nose- and ear-hair trimmer (twist the bottom to turn the blades) and small travel atomizers for aftershave. I grabbed both along with one of the store's newest items: Lavender Moustache Wax, which keeps facial hair in line. 1 Duke of York St., trumpers.com

No. 89 for 007

The most historic grooming shop in St. James's is Floris, which has occupied the same location for nearly 300 years. Its aftershave formulations date to before the American Revolution -- the one called Limes, for example, was first crafted in the mid-1700s. But once I heard that Ian Fleming's splash-on was No. 89 -- made with orange, bergamot, lavender and neroli -- I chose it instead. Winston Churchill's Special No. 127 from 1897 wasn't too shabby, either. But the royal family's favorite product is the Rose Mouthwash. 'Once a year, when the palace's sizable antique Floris bottles empty, we need to sterilize and refill them without disturbing the original labels,' said a clerk. 'That can be quite tricky.' 89 Jermyn St., florislondon.com

SPIFFING TIPS // GROOMING ADVICE FROM ST. JAMES'S PROS

Temper your scent. High-quality aftershaves and colognes can be potent. 'One way to hold the scent to an aura is to add a little cold water to your face after applying,' said Edward Bodenham, Floris's marketing director. 'Or spray the air and walk into the mist.'

Opt for alum. A smooth, translucent block of potassium (aka alum) acts as an astringent and antiseptic, and helps close your pores after shaving. 'Wet the bar with cold water and run it along your face after rinsing,' said Julian Moore, D.R. Harris's sales and marketing director. Some people use ice water to blunt the sting.

Brush up your shave. Like a rich lather? Look for a shaving brush made from the best badger hair. 'Super-badger' comes from the animal's neck, said Barry Klein, managing director of Taylor. 'The bristles will feel softest on your face' and create a nice foam.

和所有旅行中美好的发现一样,我最近的一个美好发现始自一个错误的拐弯。最近在伦敦的一个早晨,我从皮卡迪利大街(Piccadilly)往摄政街(Regent Street)走,结果往右拐得太早,而到了 詹姆斯区 (St. James's),这是一个也许在几十年前就应该消失的男士用品购物区。

狭窄的主干道杰明街(Jermyn Street)和交叉路口满是专门追求阳刚气质的店铺。各个年龄段身着西装的时髦男士匆忙前行,赶在上班前去男士店铺逛逛。他们有大量选择:Longmire的袖扣、Foster & Son的定制鞋、Hawes & Curtis的礼服衬衫、Bates的礼帽,甚至还有Peter Finer的中世纪武器和装甲。但最让我着迷的是个人护理用品快堆到天花板的美容用品店,它们的很多东西用的都是几个世纪前的配方。

在我居住的纽约,比较好的男士用品都藏在百货商场的化妆品区或者高档药品超市里——二者都缺乏男性氛围。美国商店也没什么历史,而店员也往往缺乏专业技能。我在 詹姆斯逛的商店都拥有数百年历史,店员穿得很漂亮,而且会提出权威的建议。

男士护理用品店曾经散布在时尚伦敦的各个地方。从18世纪中期开始,为了满足 詹姆斯宫(St. James's Palace)——待位男性君主的宅邸(也是查尔斯王子(Prince Charles)目前居住的地方)——的需求,这些店铺开始聚集在 詹姆斯区。加拿大安大略省布鲁克大学(Brock University)专门研究19世纪美容护理的历史学助理教授杰西卡·克拉克(Jessica Clark)说:“ 詹姆斯是伦敦最早的高档购物区之一。”后来该区逐渐变成男士英伦风格的摇篮,也衍生出了美国的预科生、学院风以及《广告狂人》(Mad Men)中的风格。

最早出现的商业包括为男性侍臣和贵族服务的美发店和香水店;18世纪末随着商人阶级的出现,商业范围开始扩大。《伦敦:1550-1750的社会文化史》(London: A Social and Cultural History, 1550-1750)一书作者罗伯特·布霍尔茨(Robert Bucholz)表示,19世纪末制造业的进步使得店铺有机会推广包装商品,20世纪又出现了产品线的延伸。如今,这一带依然因为布满众多19世纪上流社会男性俱乐部而被称为“俱乐部街”(Clubland)。

毫无疑问,神秘的俱乐部生活影响了存在已久的护理用品店铺及其产品。踏进每家店铺我都会闻到剃须膏、洗发水、滑石粉、香水以及护发护肤产品的香味。这些安静和自信的环境会让人想到复古跑车、老式书房和加里·格兰特(Cary Grant)的电影。我也从中学到了一些东西:如果在外旅行,最好把买的东西放在打算办理托运的包里,否则就从网上买。梳洗护理不是一门科学,而是一种宗教信念。另外,我可能再也不会去连锁药品超市买东西了。

英式剃须

以毛发护理为主的Taylor of Old Bond Street开业于1854年,1950年代搬到了杰明街。总经理巴里·克莱恩(Barry Klein)说:“这片区域走过了漫长的道路。”他说:“1960年代,年轻女士在这里的店铺做头发时,男士们会愤怒地表示抗议。他们把这一带看作男士俱乐部的一种延伸。”这家店靠 排列着很多玻璃和木质柜子,上面摆满了养发液、刷子、护发素、獾毛剃须刷和香皂味的古龙水。从后面的理发店飘来阵阵木头和橘柑的香气。我买了一瓶茶香须前?喱和一瓶松木沐浴精华,这款沐浴精华的味道让我想起阿尔卑斯山的徒步旅行。我还找到了一款精致小巧的清理发梳里头发的工具,还有刻有克莱恩18岁儿子使用直刃剃刀图像的明矾块。克莱恩说:“我自己用的是吉利(Gillette)Mach3。更安全。”店铺地址:杰明街74号,网址tayloroldbondst.co.uk。

最老的药店

D.R. Harris & Co.开业于1790年,被称为伦敦最古老的药房,现在仍然开处方药。这里比别的店铺多了些药味,但却让它纯 的诱惑更具吸引力。我的购物篮里装了一瓶玫瑰淡香低酒精度粉红色须后水、一块杏仁油香皂,还有针对粗糙脚后跟及肘部皮肤的磨砂膏。销售市场总监朱利安·摩尔(Julian Moore)说:“我们有些产品用的是古老的配方,比如Milk of Cucumber & Roses护肤霜和牛脂剃须皂。我们依然会接到订购Pick-Me-Up醒酒药的电话,但这款产品几年前我们就停售了。它的配方有点问题。”店铺地址:Bury街35号,网址drharris.co.uk。

古董造型霜

走进始建于1805年的Truefitt & Hill时,我注意到后面舒适的理发店比前面的产品区大好几倍。这无可厚非,因为据吉尼斯世界纪录(Guinness Book of World Records)记载,它是世界上最古老的理发店。货架上有C.A.R. Cream无油造型霜,这是1900年制造出来的配方,是为了帮助伦敦皇家汽车俱乐部(Royal Automobile Club)的成员在敞篷车上保持发型。尽管我没有敞篷车,但还是拿了一支,另外还拿了一瓶摇晃时会起泡的Monte Carlo亮绿色香味发油。国际销售及策略主管罗克珊·劳滕巴赫(Roxanne Lautenbach)说:“很多人还是会在泰晤士河(Thames)或者花园里找到我们20世纪初的瓶瓶罐罐,然后给我们送来。”店铺地址: 詹姆斯街71号,网址truefittandhill.com。

精致小工具

1875年,香水商乔治·特朗普尔(George Trumper)在附近的梅费尔(Mayfair)开了他的第一家店,不久便开到了 詹姆斯。和Truefitt & Hill 与Taylor一样,Geo. F. Trumper也在自己的理发店里提供湿刮和直刃刀片培训。除了剃须膏、洗发水和香水,这家狭窄的商店还有种类繁多的小玩意儿,包括子弹大小、不用电池的鼻毛耳毛修剪器(旋转底部可更换刀片),还有小型旅行装须后水喷瓶。两件我都拿了,还有店里的一件新品:能让面部毛发保持整齐的薰衣草胡须蜡(Lavender Moustache Wax)。店铺地址:约克公爵街1号,网址trumpers.com。

007的89号须后水

詹姆斯区历史最悠久的护理用品商店是Floris,近300年来都没有换过地址。其须后水配方可追溯至美国革命(American Revolution)之前——比如名叫Limes的须后水最早问世于18世纪中期。但我曾经听说伊恩·弗莱明(Ian Fleming)用的是89号——由橙子、佛手柑、薰衣草和橙花制成——于是我也选了这款。温斯顿·丘吉尔(Winston Churchill)用的1897年的特制127号也不错。但王室最爱的产品是玫瑰漱口水(Rose Mouthwash)。一位店员说:“每年皇宫里的Floris古董大瓶子空了的时候,我们就需要对这些瓶子进行消毒,然后再装满,不能损坏原来的商标。这其实有点难度。”店铺地址:杰明街89号,网址florislondon.com。

男士梳洗打扮技巧// 詹姆斯专业人士的美容建议

-调和你的香味。优质须后水和古龙水的味道会很浓。Floris市场总监爱德华·博登海姆(Edward Bodenham)说:“让香味变淡的一种方法是使用后往脸上拍一点冷水,或者往空气里喷几下然后走进去。”

-选择明矾。一块光滑透明的明矾会起到收敛和抗菌的作用,有助于剃须后闭合毛孔。D.R. Harris销售市场总监朱利安·摩尔(Julian Moore)说:“将明矾块在冷水中沾湿,在清洁后的脸部摩擦。”有些人会用冰水缓解刺痛感。

-善用刷子。喜欢丰富的泡沫?那就找一支由最好的獾毛制成的剃须刷。Taylor总经理巴里·克莱恩(Barry Klein)说,“超级獾毛刷”取自獾颈部的毛发。“刷毛在脸上非常柔软”,而且会形成迷人的泡沫。

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