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更新时间:2014-5-28 13:26:23 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

Men's Hair: How to Pull Off the Tousled Look

Slightly longer hair on men has been popping up on the red carpet, as well as on the street. Pulling off the look can be tricky, however. Too much volume or too much 'bed head' in a tousled look can ruin the effect, says Rene Fris, a New York City hairstylist who has longer hair himself.

The look 'has to have balance,' says Mr. Fris, or 'it can look too messy and too down and dirty.' Mr. Fris is a stylist at Salon SCK in Manhattan.

Start with the right cut. 'Always tell your hairdresser to keep the length on the top and shorter on the sides and the back so it does not look too compact or thick,' he says. 'If wearing them, keep the bangs long,' which allows for more versatility in styling in the front.

Also, 'always get layers cut into the hair but make sure the top is the same length so it is easy to lift up and mess around with fingers.'

Length is essential: Men's hair should be between 3 to 6 inches long, Mr. Fris says. Anything longer than that and the look gets too shaggy, he adds, noting that David Beckham is a good model of how to do the look in a polished way.

'If you have fine hair,' he adds, it's best to keep the length on the shorter side as 'longer hair will keep too much weight and you will not get enough volume for the look you're trying to achieve.'

For the best result, Mr. Fris recommends shampooing only twice a week, noting this look generally 'works better the second or third day' after washing your hair. 'If you're a guy with fine hair and it tends to get flat and greasy though, shampoo it every second day,' he says.

When it comes to styling the look, Mr. Fris says there are two main types: a polished messy look and a more 'down and dirty' one. For the former, start by wetting the hair slightly then massage a medium-hold hair gel or volume spray into the hair to lift the roots, he says.

Next, blow-dry the hair 'in all directions from up and down -- keep your arm above your head so airflow is coming down onto the shoulder and face,' Mr. Fris says. 'It is important here to not blow the hair in one direction but blow in different directions to achieve a more messy look and use your fingers to create constant movement.'

Then 'put a finishing product into the hair to give it hold,' he says, cautioning against any heavy or greasy products. 'A light styling cream with hold or a paste works well. Make sure to work it into the ends of the hair with your fingertips to create the right lift.'

To get volume, Mr. Fris suggests lifting the hair at the root and pulling it out all the way to the end. 'Then add volume gel or spray,' he says. Adjust the volume after looking in the mirror to tone it down or up.

'If your face is a little bit full you don't want too big hair, and if your head is big, your hair could overwhelm your whole look,' Mr. Fris cautions. 'With narrow or slimmer faces, you don't want to go too high with the volume' as that will further elongate your head.

For a more down-and-dirty look, Mr. Fris suggests making sure your hair hasn't been shampooed in at least a day.

'Use dry shampoo spray on the scalp to absorb any oils. Spray in and puff up with fingers all over,' he says. 'Then get a styling cream or body lotion -- Nivea cream is a good recommendation -- and apply it through all ends and style it in the directions that you want.'

It's important to keep track of how much product you're using. 'When you add too much product, the hair can start getting too clumpy or greasy or too compact,' Mr. Fris says.

While tousled looks may seem a little much for office environments, Mr. Fris believes there is a way to make them work. During the day, 'keep the sides down and flat,' he says, so 'it looks like it's more calm.' After work, he says, you can add product and mess up the hair for a more bed-head look.

Generally, Mr. Fris says the look works well with casual ensembles but it also can add some contrast to polished, dressy outfits. 'I like the guy in the tuxedo having the bed hair. I think it can be too much if the hair is too polished and perfect with a tuxedo,' he says. 'I'd much rather go with a good contrast. It's like somebody wearing sneakers with a suit.'

留着略长头发的男士在红毯和街头一直都很引人注目,不过打造一个抢眼的发型可能并不是那么简单。纽约曼哈顿美发沙龙Salon SCK的发型师勒内·弗里(Rene Fris)就留着这样的头发,他说,发量太多或者头发过乱都会失去效果。


首先应从正确的剪发开始。“永远要告诉你的理发师留够头顶的发长,将两侧和后面的头发剪短,这样头型不会看起来太紧凑或太厚重,” 他表示:“留这种发型要保持刘海够长,”这样可以在前面做更多的造型。


弗里说,发长是关键:男士的头发应在3-6英寸(约7.6-15厘米)长。他还表示,如果超过这一长度,头发会显得太杂乱;大卫·贝克汉姆(David Beckham)就是个很好的例子,他诠释了如何将这种发型做得精致。