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如何打造时尚男士凌乱发型

更新时间:2014-5-28 13:26:23 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

Men's Hair: How to Pull Off the Tousled Look
如何打造时尚男士凌乱发型

Slightly longer hair on men has been popping up on the red carpet, as well as on the street. Pulling off the look can be tricky, however. Too much volume or too much 'bed head' in a tousled look can ruin the effect, says Rene Fris, a New York City hairstylist who has longer hair himself.

The look 'has to have balance,' says Mr. Fris, or 'it can look too messy and too down and dirty.' Mr. Fris is a stylist at Salon SCK in Manhattan.

Start with the right cut. 'Always tell your hairdresser to keep the length on the top and shorter on the sides and the back so it does not look too compact or thick,' he says. 'If wearing them, keep the bangs long,' which allows for more versatility in styling in the front.

Also, 'always get layers cut into the hair but make sure the top is the same length so it is easy to lift up and mess around with fingers.'

Length is essential: Men's hair should be between 3 to 6 inches long, Mr. Fris says. Anything longer than that and the look gets too shaggy, he adds, noting that David Beckham is a good model of how to do the look in a polished way.

'If you have fine hair,' he adds, it's best to keep the length on the shorter side as 'longer hair will keep too much weight and you will not get enough volume for the look you're trying to achieve.'

For the best result, Mr. Fris recommends shampooing only twice a week, noting this look generally 'works better the second or third day' after washing your hair. 'If you're a guy with fine hair and it tends to get flat and greasy though, shampoo it every second day,' he says.

When it comes to styling the look, Mr. Fris says there are two main types: a polished messy look and a more 'down and dirty' one. For the former, start by wetting the hair slightly then massage a medium-hold hair gel or volume spray into the hair to lift the roots, he says.

Next, blow-dry the hair 'in all directions from up and down -- keep your arm above your head so airflow is coming down onto the shoulder and face,' Mr. Fris says. 'It is important here to not blow the hair in one direction but blow in different directions to achieve a more messy look and use your fingers to create constant movement.'

Then 'put a finishing product into the hair to give it hold,' he says, cautioning against any heavy or greasy products. 'A light styling cream with hold or a paste works well. Make sure to work it into the ends of the hair with your fingertips to create the right lift.'

To get volume, Mr. Fris suggests lifting the hair at the root and pulling it out all the way to the end. 'Then add volume gel or spray,' he says. Adjust the volume after looking in the mirror to tone it down or up.

'If your face is a little bit full you don't want too big hair, and if your head is big, your hair could overwhelm your whole look,' Mr. Fris cautions. 'With narrow or slimmer faces, you don't want to go too high with the volume' as that will further elongate your head.

For a more down-and-dirty look, Mr. Fris suggests making sure your hair hasn't been shampooed in at least a day.

'Use dry shampoo spray on the scalp to absorb any oils. Spray in and puff up with fingers all over,' he says. 'Then get a styling cream or body lotion -- Nivea cream is a good recommendation -- and apply it through all ends and style it in the directions that you want.'

It's important to keep track of how much product you're using. 'When you add too much product, the hair can start getting too clumpy or greasy or too compact,' Mr. Fris says.

While tousled looks may seem a little much for office environments, Mr. Fris believes there is a way to make them work. During the day, 'keep the sides down and flat,' he says, so 'it looks like it's more calm.' After work, he says, you can add product and mess up the hair for a more bed-head look.

Generally, Mr. Fris says the look works well with casual ensembles but it also can add some contrast to polished, dressy outfits. 'I like the guy in the tuxedo having the bed hair. I think it can be too much if the hair is too polished and perfect with a tuxedo,' he says. 'I'd much rather go with a good contrast. It's like somebody wearing sneakers with a suit.'

留着略长头发的男士在红毯和街头一直都很引人注目,不过打造一个抢眼的发型可能并不是那么简单。纽约曼哈顿美发沙龙Salon SCK的发型师勒内·弗里(Rene Fris)就留着这样的头发,他说,发量太多或者头发过乱都会失去效果。

弗里说,这种发型需要找到平衡,否则就会看起来过于凌乱、落魄和邋遢。

首先应从正确的剪发开始。“永远要告诉你的理发师留够头顶的发长,将两侧和后面的头发剪短,这样头型不会看起来太紧凑或太厚重,” 他表示:“留这种发型要保持刘海够长,”这样可以在前面做更多的造型。

他还说,永远要把头发剪出层次,但要确保头顶的头发一样长,这样用手指提拉抓乱头发时更简单。

弗里说,发长是关键:男士的头发应在3-6英寸(约7.6-15厘米)长。他还表示,如果超过这一长度,头发会显得太杂乱;大卫·贝克汉姆(David Beckham)就是个很好的例子,他诠释了如何将这种发型做得精致。

弗里补充道,“如果你头发较细,”最好保留较短一侧的头发,因为“头发长了会增加太多重量,而你因为发量不够也无法达到所期望的发型。”

为了达到最佳效果,弗里建议每周只洗两次头发,因为这种发型一般在洗发后“第二或第三天才能呈现更佳状态。”他表示,“如果你头发较细,容易紧贴头皮并且还出油,那就每隔一天洗一次头发。”

当提到如何造型时,弗里说主要有两种类型:一种是精心打造的凌乱发型,另一种则更为“颓废、邋遢”。他称,前一种发型要先把头发略微打湿,然后用中度定型发胶或者用有增加发量效果的喷雾按摩头发来提拉发根。

弗里说,下一步,从上到下全方位吹干头发——把你的胳膊保持在头顶上方,这样风会往下吹到肩膀和脸上。他还称:“很重要的一点是,不要只吹一个方向,要从不同方向吹,以吹出更为凌乱的发型,同时用手指不停地抓乱头发。”

然后使用定型产品保持头型,他提醒说不要用任何增加发重和令头发变油的产品,“一款轻型定型膏就可以搞定,要确保用指尖把定型膏抓到发根处,营造正确的提拉效果。”

为了增加发量,弗里建议从根部提拉头发直至发梢,“然后使用发量胶或喷雾”。之后看着镜子调整发量,使其略微增加或减少。

弗里还提醒说,“如果你的脸偏圆,那你不适合发量太多;如果你的头较大,你的头发可能会压倒你整个造型;如果你的脸型偏瘦或较长,那你不适合把发型做得太高”,因为这会让你的脸型看起来更长。

至于更加颓废、邋遢的造型,弗里建议要保证头发至少一天没有洗过。

他表示,“在头皮上使用干洗发喷雾来吸油,并用指头提拉头发,然后用定型膏或者润肤乳——比如妮维雅(Nivea)润肤霜——抹在发根上,将其塑造成你想要的发型。”

此外重要的是,留意你自己同时使用了多少种产品。“如果你用的产品过多,头发会开始打结,变油或者黏在一起,”弗里说道。

尽管凌乱发型在办公室环境中可能会显得有点不合时宜,但弗里认为有办法让这种发型推广开来。他说,白天可以使两鬓头发保持垂直,这样看起来更加镇定;下班后,则可以用一些发型产品弄乱头发,看起来蓬头垢面一点。

弗里说,通常情况下,这种头型与休闲服装比较搭配,但同时也会给考究的服装带来对比效果。他表示,“我喜欢身穿燕尾服的男人搭配‘起床头’,如果他身穿燕尾服,头型还很精致、完美,那在我看来就有些太过了;我宁可选择一个出彩的对比效果,这与一个身穿西装的人脚上蹬着一双运动鞋有异曲同工之妙。”

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