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水桶包又回来了!

更新时间:2014-5-23 22:20:35 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

The Bucket Bag Is Back
水桶包又回来了!

If ever there was a moment for the bucket bag, it is now. These ready carryalls, with their whiff of hippie style, drawstring tops and roomy bottoms, are all over store shelves, at every price range, touching nearly every high-fashion trend, from fur to fringe.

Anya Hindmarch brought out her 'Vaughan' version of the bucket bag for spring, and Saint Laurent has two buckets in its armory, including the heavily buckled moto-style Rider. As if to suggest that every fashion collection must have at least one, Alexander Wang designed them for both his eponymous line and Balenciaga. For middle-income mortals, H&M has four versions in stores.

'Bucket bags are incredibly versatile -- the ideal combination of utility with casual chic,' says Tory Burch, whose spring 2014 collection included two bucket bags influenced by a 1969 French film called 'La Piscine,' or 'the swimming pool.' 'Our Lydia [bag] was inspired by bags my mother would carry to the beach in the '60s. [It] seemed so effortless.'

Swimming pools, movie stars. Kirsten Dunst has been toting around one of the newest 'It' bag labels -- Mansur Gavriel -- whose bucket helped push the fledgling company in 2012 onto the must-have lists of fashion blogs and department stores.

This is one of those trends that swells up when no one is looking. For several years, prim structured bags have been all the rage. Redolent of society dames, these bags don't hold much, but they snap closed with a satisfying firmness. They seem just right for the carefully structured fashions -- all wasp-waisted and ladylike -- that have been dominating runways for a couple of years.

A bucket bag is the opposite of structure. It is all about messy clutter. Open it, and you never know what you will find down there -- or if you will be able to find anything at all. It is helpful to have a flashlight handy for searching. The interior is so deep and dark, it is difficult to tell a wallet from a cosmetic case.

But the look, when slung over the shoulder, suggests carefree nonchalance. It also suggests that you're as prepared as a scout. Whatever you need is in there, somewhere.

'Bucket bags should come with a disclaimer,' says Tina Craig, co-founder of the BagSnob website. She says the Mansur Gavriel version is the only bucket bag she will endorse. The rest are too disorganized and difficult to use. 'Always a double-edged sword with this style, carry with caution!' she adds.

The designers of Mansur Gavriel, Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel, say they chose the bucket because they loved the ease of its shape. To emphasize that, they minimized elements such as hardware. They added a detachable wallet for better organization. Bonded leather creates a stronger structure, while lighter colors on some of the inside surfaces make it easier to navigate the cavernous interior.

The bucket bag has been around for a long time. Louis Vuitton's Noe bag first came out in 1932. It was created to carry five bottles of champagne (the fifth upside down), the company says. But the Noe has been a workhorse handbag carrying wallets, compacts and other feminine detritus for decades.

Since then, bucket bags have come in and out every decade or two. At his own eponymous label, Mr. Wang gave the most recent trend an early jump-start several years ago with his Diego, a version that takes soft but sturdy saddle leather -- much like the old Coach bags -- and adds a cluster of studded feet on the bottom. The Diego has been carried by a host of fashion-influencing celebrities such as Miranda Kerr, Kate Bosworth, Gisele Bundchen and Carey Mulligan.

My own first bucket bag came from Coach in the early 1990s. It is in need of refurbishment, having been in storage for years, but I've been toting it about lately, enjoying the utility of its durable saddle leather and well-balanced square bottom, which have survived many an evening among the shoes under a restaurant table. Created pre-iPad, it nonetheless accommodates mine. It is easy to succumb to temptation and stuff it to the gills. A pregnant bag isn't elegant.

Yet a bucket bag's best quality is that it is the sort of carryall that can be equally well loved by a handyman and a princess. The latter would carry Nancy Gonzalez's orange fur version. Just go light on the stuffing.

当下正是水桶包大行其道之时。这种透着嬉皮士范儿,顶部带抽绳,底部宽敞的大包遍布商场的货架,价位多种多样,而且与皮草和流苏等几乎所有前沿时尚元素都能搭上边。

安雅·希德玛芝(Anya Hindmarch)推出了她的春季款水桶包Vaughan, 罗兰(Saint Laurent)系列也有两款水桶包,其中包括带很多搭扣的机车风格款Rider。王大仁(Alexander Wang)为他的同名系列和巴黎世家(Balenciaga)都设计了水桶包,仿佛暗示每个时尚品牌都至少要有一款水桶包。H&M则面向收入中等的普通人推出了四款水桶包。

托里·伯奇(Tory Burch)说:“水桶包堪称百搭──是实用性与休闲时尚的理想结合。”托里·伯奇的2014年春季系列包括两款设计风格受1969年法国电影《游泳池》(La Piscine)影响的水桶包。她说:“我们的Lydia系列设计灵感来自我母亲上世纪60年代去沙滩时背的包,似乎是信手拈来。”

游泳池、电影明星……基尔斯滕·东斯特(Kirsten Dunst)已经在背曼苏尔·加夫里埃尔(Mansur Gavriel)的水桶包了。曼苏尔·加夫里埃尔是最新“It包(It Bag意为一定要拥有的包包)”品牌之一,2012年,水桶包让这家初出茅庐的公司一举登上时尚博客和百货商店的必购榜单。

水桶包是悄然之间兴起的潮流之一。在好几年的时间里,最时兴的都是那些外形端庄的手袋。这些手袋让人联想到上流社会的贵妇,它们装不了多少东西,但扣上以后硬挺有型。它们似乎正适合统治T台数年的严谨有序的时尚潮流(一切都是蜂腰和淑女范儿)。

而水桶包的构造则恰好相反。这种包的特点除了乱还是乱。打开包时,你根本不知道里面能找到些什么──甚至不知道究竟能不能找到东西。最好手边能备一个电筒,以方便找东西。包里太深、太黑了,很难把钱包和化妆包区分开来。

但挎在肩头的水桶包会流露出一种无拘无束的恬淡气质。它还暗示你像侦查员一样做好了充分的准备。你需要的任何东西都在包里,在某个地方。

时尚网站BagSnob的联合创始人陈尚婷(Tina Craig)说:“水桶包应该附带一份免责声明。”她说,曼苏尔·加夫里埃尔是她首肯的唯一一款水桶包。其他的包都太没条理,太难用了。她补充说:“这种包款永远都是一把双刃剑,使用须谨慎!”

曼苏尔·加夫里埃尔的设计师蕾切尔·曼苏尔(Rachel Mansur)和弗洛里安娜·加夫里埃尔(FlorianaGavriel)说,选择水桶包是因为她们喜欢水桶形的简洁感。为了强调这种简洁,她们尽可能地减少五金件等元素的使用。为了让物品容纳更有序,她们添加了一个可拆卸的钱包。再生皮让包的结构感更强,包内部分空间使用较浅的颜色,便于使用者在宽敞的内部空间翻找。

水桶包面世已有很长一段时间了。路易威登(Louis Vuitton)的水桶包Noe最初于1932年推出。该公司称,当初设计这款包是为了装五瓶香槟酒(第五瓶酒头朝下)。但Noe几十年来一直被人们当做一款很能装东西的手袋,里面可以放钱包、化妆粉盒和其他各种女性用品。

从那时起,水桶包每过一二十年就会流行一次。王大仁几年前在他的同名品牌下推出了Diego系列,成为最新一轮水桶包风潮的先行者,这款包采用柔软但结实的鞍皮(很像老式Coach包),并在包底添加了一些饰钉。米兰达·可儿(Miranda Kerr)、凯特·博斯沃思(Kate Bosworth)、吉赛尔·邦辰(Gisele Bundchen)和凯瑞·穆丽根(Carey Mulligan)等一批时尚界有影响力的名流都背过Diego。

我的第一只水桶包是购于上世纪90年代初一只Coach包。这只包已经放了很多年,需要翻整,但最近我还是把它拿出来背了,我喜欢它的实用性,鞍皮结实耐用,正方形底非常稳当,它在餐馆桌子底下,被鞋子“践踏”了许多个晚上之后依然毫发无损。虽然这款包是在有iPad之前设计的,但放我的iPad完全没有问题。有了这只包,你会情不自禁要把它塞得满满当当。当然,一只鼓鼓囊囊的包就不会太优雅了。

但水桶包最妙的地方在于,无论是平民还是显贵都会对它爱不释手。后者会背南希·冈萨雷斯(Nancy Gonzalez)的橙色真皮水桶包。只要在里面少塞些东西就好。

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