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智能手环的时尚变身

更新时间:2014-4-14 13:57:17 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

Fitness Trackers Get Stylish
智能手环的时尚变身

'MISSED-STEP REGRET' is an affliction that can befall the data-obsessed when they opt not to put on their fitness-tracking bracelets, those wearable gadgets-like the Fitbit Flex, Jawbone UP and Nike NKE -5.12% FuelBand-that count the number of steps taken in a day.

It happened recently to Pati Dubroff, 45, a makeup artist in New York and Los Angeles who works with Miley Cyrus, Natalie Portman and Charlize Theron. Since she began to wear a black Jawbone UP24 bracelet two months ago, Ms. Dubroff has loved tracking her every step stepped and every calorie burned-whether on a hike or as she mops her kitchen floor. Ms. Dubroff wears the Jawbone wristband with almost everything. When she goes to work or out to dinner, she stacks it among silver bangles and black bracelets that sparkle with costume stones.

Yet when getting ready for a disco-themed party recently, she didn't think the fitness tracker looked right with her Lanvin dress and chunky gold necklace. Deciding to leave the fitness bracelet on her dressing table proved her greatest lament. 'I regretted it because I danced all night long!' she said. One can only guess how many steps one takes during 'The Hustle.'

Not too long ago, fitness metric-collecting bracelets were the domain of the datarati, who are early to adopt any device or platform that puts them in the know-be it about news or their nutrition. Now, the popularity of these wearables is far more widespread, and the style-conscious are figuring out how to make wrist-computers appear chic. Looking one's best matters when quantifying oneself.

'It's a badge of honor, whether you're healthy or not,' said Nina Garcia, Marie Claire's creative director and a judge on 'Project Runway.' Harking back to the era when celebrities like Madonna wore red string Kabbalah bracelets with diamonds, the pairing of electronic wristbands and analog accessories, like bangles and beads, is the order of the day. 'And when there is a Harry Winston FuelBand, everyone on the red carpet will wear it,' she said.

Stacking a fitness bracelet amid the non-tech variety is a popular trend. Instagram is replete with photos of well-dressed wrists in which wearable gadgets have been invited to the #armparty. Nicole Hanley Mellon, a fashion designer and blogger who is active on the New York social circuit, likes the contrasted look of a black Jawbone bracelet paired with diamond Hermès cuffs. She opted for a gray Jawbone, hoping it would 'read silver,' she said. But it didn't. 'As in all fashion matters, basic black is the safest bet.'

The social value of wearing fitness bracelets to fancy parties goes beyond pure aesthetics. They can be great conversation pieces, too. Elizabeth Weil, 31, is an ultramarathoner and a partner at Silicon Valley venture-capital firm Andreessen Horowitz. She wears two data bracelets, all the time. 'The bands sure do jump out against a black cocktail dress,' she said-and that's a good thing. 'When have you ever started talking immediately to an executive about their sleep patterns?' she said. 'Talk about a great ice breaker.'

Marketers of wellness-focused wearable technology are gearing up to meet the new demand. Fitbit is trying to go high-fashion by teaming up with designer Tory Burch to create a line of bands and necklaces, due out this spring, that are compatible with the Fitbit Flex tracker (although not its Force bracelet, which Fitbit recalled after hundreds of customers complained of developing very unfashionable wrist rashes). This week, Nike released a fresh batch of Rose Gold Nike+ FuelBand SE trackers after the original limited-edition supply sold out quickly last fall. Like the original FuelBand, it's made of thermoplastic materials, but it has a rose-gold-colored stainless-steel clasp that makes it resemble costume jewelry.

In January, fashion label Opening Ceremony announced a plan to partner with Intel to create a tech-enabled bracelet to be sold at Barneys New York. The Council of Fashion Designers of America is also teaming with Intel to accelerate the development of fashion-forward wearable devices. The potential impact of wearable technology on the fashion business is 'game-changing,' said Adam Roth, director of strategic partners for the CFDA. 'Anything we can do to grow these partnerships only benefits our industry,' he said.

The melding of style and tech could be seen during New York Fashion Week, earlier this winter. To get a sense of how physically trying the lead up to a big runway show can be, menswear designer Todd Snyder wore an UP24 as he prepared. Five days before his show, when Mr. Snyder was focused on fitting clothes to models, he recorded just 2,995 steps (his average, he said, is about 6,000). The tracker reported that he slept only two hours and 55 minutes. 'I've always had this theory that I do more work than I get credit for. I thought it would be interesting to test it,' he said.

The bracelets also benefit from avid Instagrammers like model Karlie Kloss. She posted a backstage photo from Carolina Herrera's New York Fashion Week show revealing Ms. Kloss's UP24 band. 'Wearable tech has become a style statement,' said Ms. Kloss. 'It's amazing that a seemingly simple band can give you access to hard data on sleep and movement while also looking chic.'

For 46-year-old Curt Hecht, the chief revenue officer of the Weather Co. and an avid cyclist, how his omnipresent Jawbone bracelet fits in with his personal style doesn't concern him, because the tracker, more than any other item he wears, best reflects his personal style. Just as a man's suit says something about him, Mr. Hecht said, so, too, does his decision to pair a fitness band with it. 'I think it makes a statement that someone actually cares about themselves and their fitness, and that they have balance in their life,' he said. 'What's more impressive, a fancy watch or a wearable? Being healthy, that is my style.'

当那些痴迷于数据的人摘下计步手环时,“遗步之恨”就会发生在他们身上。这些可穿戴设备可以计算主人每天走过的步数,例如Fitbit的Flex、Jawbone的UP和耐克(Nike)的FuelBand。

45岁的化妆师帕蒂·杜布罗夫(Pati Dubroff)近来就遇到了这样的问题,她在纽约和洛杉矶工作,服务对象包括米利·塞勒斯(Miley Cyrus)、娜塔莉·波特曼(Natalie Portman)和查理兹·塞隆(Charlize Theron)。自从她两个月前开始戴Jawbone的UP24手环之后,杜布罗夫就爱上了记录自己走过的每一步和消耗的每卡热量,不论是在登山的时候还是在厨房拖地的时候。杜布罗夫无论穿着什么都会搭配上Jawbone手环。当她工作或者外出就餐时,她会用银手镯和带有闪亮装饰宝石的黑色手链来与它叠搭。

但是在最近准备迪斯科主题的派对时,她觉得这个计步器与浪凡(Lanvin)礼服和粗的金项链并不相称。她把计步器留在梳妆台上,而这成了她的一大憾事。“我太后悔了,因为我整晚都在跳舞!”她说。一支哈萨尔舞曲要跳多少步只能靠猜了。

不久之前,记录人体数据的健康手环还属于数据狂人们的专属领域,无论是什么设备、平台,只要能让他们熟知新闻、或者对自己的营养状况了如指掌、对一切了然于心,他们都会最早一批去使用。如今,这些可穿戴设备受到了越来越多人的欢迎,受众远远超出了原来的范围,时尚人士开始研究如何让这些手腕上的电子设备看起来更加时髦。对于他们而言,健康手环在发挥计量功能的同时,装饰功能也很重要。

“不论你是否健康,这都是个荣誉勋章”,《嘉人》(Marie Claire)杂志创意总监、同时也是真人秀Project Runway评委妮娜·加西亚(Nina Garcia)说。想当年,麦当娜(Madonna)这样的明星都喜欢佩戴卡巴拉(Kabbalah)红绳 石手链;现如今流行的是电子手环与同款饰品搭配,例如手链和串珠。“如果珠宝商海瑞温斯顿(Harry Winston)出了类似FuelBand的智能腕带的话,红毯上的明星会人手一条”,她说。

健康手环与非科技饰品叠搭是当下的流行趋势。社交应用Instagram上满是武装齐全的手腕的照片,照片中可穿戴电子设备都被邀请加入#armparty。时尚设计师和博主妮科尔·汉利·梅隆(Nicole Hanley Mellon)在纽约社交圈非常活跃。她喜欢黑色Jawbone手环搭配爱马仕(Hermes) 石手镯形成的强烈对比效果。但她选择了灰色的Jawbone手环,她说,希望它能“看起来有银质感”。只可惜效果并不理想。“就像所有的时尚服饰一样,基础黑色是最安全的选择。”

佩戴健康手环参加高端聚会的社交价值远远超出了单纯的美学意义。它们也可以成为很好的谈资。31岁的伊丽莎白·威尔(Elizabeth Weil)是一名超级马拉松运动员、同时也是硅谷风险投资公司Andreessen Horowitz的合伙人。她一直同时佩戴两个智能手环。“手环与黑色礼服裙搭配时确实扎眼”,她说,但这是件好事。“在过去,你什么时候能有机会直接和一位高管聊他的睡眠模式呢?”她说:“这可是个很棒的开场白。”

健康类可穿戴科技产品的营销人员正为迎合这种新的需求而摩拳擦掌。Fitbit尝试打入高调时尚界,与托里伯奇(Tory Burch)的设计师合作来设计一系列的腕带和项链,预计在今年春季推出。该系列与Fitbit的Flex计步器兼容(但并不兼容Force手环,数百名消费者投诉该产品会引起皮疹之后,Fitbit公司对其进行了召回)。3月下旬,耐克发布了全新的玫瑰金FuelBand SE计步器,而先前的限量版手环在去年秋季推出之后迅速销售一空。和之前的FuelBand一样,它采用了热塑性材料,但在扣环处采用了玫瑰金色的不锈钢材料,让它看起来很像人造珠宝。

一月,时尚品牌Opening Ceremony宣布了与英特尔(Intel)合作制作科技手环,并将在纽约Barneys精品店销售。美国时尚设计师协会(Council of Fashion Designers of America,简称CFDA)也在与英特尔合作,加快开发时尚的可穿戴电子设备。可穿戴科技产品对于时尚界的潜在影响是“颠覆性的”,CFDA战略合作总监亚当·罗思(Adam Roth)说。他说,“我们为了增进合作所付出的一切努力最终对于我们的行业只能是有益无害”。

时尚与科技的融合在去年冬季的纽约时装周上得到了体现。一个实例让你了解一场大秀的指挥者是如何身体力行的,男装设计师托德·斯奈德(Todd Snyder)在准备过程中一直都带着UP24智能手环。时装秀前的五天,当斯奈德专注于为模特们试装时,智能手环记录他只走了2995步(他说他的平均水平是6000步)、只睡了2小时55分钟。“我一直以来的理论是,我做的比别人看到的多。我觉得检验一下这个理论也是件有趣的事。”

这些手环也得益于忠实的Instagram用户,比如模特卡莉·克洛斯(Karlie Kloss)。她发布了一张纽约时装周卡罗莱娜·赫雷拉(Carolina Herrera)秀场的后台照,展示了她的UP24手环。“可穿戴科技产品成为了一种时尚宣言”,克洛斯说。“这样一个看起来很简单的手环能够为你提供睡眠和运动的确切数据,同时还能看起来时髦,这很了不起。”

46岁的柯特·赫克特(Curt Hecht)是Weather公司的首席营收官,也是一名狂热的自行车运动爱好者。他并不在意随时随地佩戴的Jawbone手环是否适合他的风格,因为这个手环比他身上的其他东西更能反映他的个人风格。赫克特说,就像男人的着装能反映他的某些特质一样,他为服装搭配一个健康手环也能说明他的性格。“我觉得这传递了一条信息,显示出一个人确实很关心自己和健康,并能很好地平衡自己的生活”,他说。“什么更令人印象深刻,昂贵的手表还是可穿戴设备?保持健康,这就是我的风格。”

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