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更新时间:2014-3-21 14:15:42 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

Best and Worst From Fall 2014 Runways

The fall 2014 collections can be summed up with the observation that not one single high heel walked down Chanel's runway--only sparkly running shoes.

Cocooning coats, Hepburn slacks and a deeply luxurious take on rugged clothing marked the fashion collections that ended here Wednesday. Come fall, it will be possible to look like a very chic farmer in Alexander McQueen's Elizabethan trekking boots. Quilted jackets, double-face cashmere slacks and fur bags were being embraced by fashion editors whose picks from the collections drive trends.

It could also be called the season of an awful lot of fabric. The technical word is 'volume,' and designers were obsessed with it. One leg of the Paule Ka slacks in white hammered satin could have made a skirt. Wool, lace and metallic jacquard flowed off models' backs and swirled around their legs. Stores will likely want trimmer versions for shoppers who can't carry off all that yardage.

Standout collections included the sharp contrasts of Tomas Maier's Bottega Veneta and Valentino's Pop Art capes and floral princess gowns. Iris Van Herpen, a Dutch designer, stood out with 3D printing and gravity-defying shoes which, along with her showman sensibility, recalled her former internship with Alexander McQueen. The Alexander McQueen collection itself was a disappointment. The label's runways seem stuck in an Elizabethan bubble, without the sexy-power-woman ethos of its late designer.

For those attending shows, it was a season of mishaps. Nearly a dozen editors and guests were trapped in a high-rise elevator while leaving Oscar de la Renta's show in New York. Rescued by firemen, they exited the elevator by ladder through an escape hatch. Hundreds (including Vogue's Anna Wintour) were waylaid by London's high winds, their planes redirected to Dublin and Newcastle. What awaited in Milan and Paris? Pestilence: A nasty stomach bug spread among fashion-label employees, celebrities and editors.

Still, editors and store buyers soldiered through four fashion cities.Here's a cheat sheet for what they saw--the highlights and the lows of the season.

Most Anticipated Debut

Nicolas Ghesquière took the reins of Louis Vuitton from Marc Jacobs with a starkly new direction--both for the label and for fashion. Mr. Ghesquière is one of those designers who influences other designers. Today's trendy sweatshirts, gladiator sandals and neoprene clothes can all be traced back to his work designing Balenciaga. Now, in a sea of voluminous fabric, Mr. Ghesquière went slim, skinny and mini. It was a muted debut, but the message was clear.

Most Fun Show

Chanel's models, including Cara Delevingne and Joan Smalls, loaded up on shopping carts as they wandered through a supermarket erected in Paris's Grand Palais. Shelves were stocked with Chanel-logo milk, lentils, eggs, ham and other products such as 'noix de Coco' (Coco nuts). Guests snapped selfies in the aisles. Plus it was one of Karl Lagerfeld's best collections in years.

Most Overdone Trend

Your Moncler puffer is so yesterday, having been surpassed by artful takes on the puffer from dozens of labels from Donna Karan to Balenciaga and Junya Watanabe--not to mention Christian Dior's puffer dress and Kenzo's puffer clutch bag. It was hard to find a collection without a quilt or puffer.

Silliest Look

How to riff off the chunky-sweater trend but still move forward? For some designers, the answer was this season's least-likely-to-hit-the-streets trend: the shag-rug sweater, coat or dress. Seen at Prada, Derek Lam, Tom Ford and Viktor & Rolf, this look is for those with strong fashion constitutions and poor central heating.

Chic-est Fete

The opening of the Dries Van Noten exhibition at the Louvre's Musée des Arts Décoratifs drew notables from design icon Claude Montana to erotic-jewelry designer Betony Vernon. Champagne flowed, and guests spilled into the museum's stairwells. Mr. Van Noten --wearing his own version of camouflage pants--said he was stunned to be the subject of a Louvre retrospective. Curated by Pamela Golbin, who worked with the designer on it for two years, the exhibition explores the sources of Mr. Van Noten's creative psyche, which explains all those folded pieces of the British artist Francis Bacon's papers.

Hautest Sweatshirt

Just short of being forever typecast as the queen of Photoshop, Mary Katrantzou included not a single digital print on her London runway. Her mink sweatshirt with gold braiding from Her Majesty's braid maker is priced at $74,400. Two other looks were made not with scissors but with pliers, as butchers' aprons of chain mail were transformed into bias-cut dresses.

Clumsiest Collection

Patience is running thin with Vionnet, a label that has had a new designer every few seasons. Now owned and designed by Russian oil-industry magnate Goga Ashkenazi, the label veered into awkward territory with ill-conceived clothes that appeared clumsily assembled. Bizarre cutouts climbed across the chests of several dresses. Ms. Ashkenazi's deep pockets and ad spending failed to pack the house.

Front-Row Frisson

Jann Wenner's sons Noah and Theo strode into Saint Laurent with a bottle of Champagne and sat in the first row by Allison Mosshart of the band the Kills. Nearby sat Jean Paul Gaultier, Azzedine Alaïa and Pucci's Peter Dundas. Valerie Trierweiler, the French president's ex-girlfriend, was there, as were Catherine Deneuve, Jade Jagger, Kate Moss and a Thai princess. Now that is a front row--one with conversations you'd like to overhear. Best-second-row honors go to Valentino: Anna Wintour's second-row seat caused a fashion buzz, but she gave up a front-row seat to join a guest she brought along.

Fondest Return

It's been years since the cobbler whose shoes are known by his first name showed his collections in New York. The Manolo Blahnik showroom was packed with adorers who treated his dainty confections with reverence verging on the religious. A video showed the designer at work in his studio, talking to himself and whispering to the shoes, as is his habit. (Who knew?)

Most Trustworthy Models

When you see clothes on runway models, you can only guesstimate how the clothes will translate on normal human bodies, and it is easy to assume they'll translate poorly. Rick Owens took out the guesswork by showing his spacey art house-chic collection on an array of models, from familiar runway gazelles to regular women of all ages, shapes, and shades--graying hair and all.


在近期结束的巴黎时装周上,茧型外套、赫本(Hepburn)风宽松裤和对粗犷服饰的华丽诠释成为本季时装系列的特色。到了秋季,穿上亚历山大·麦昆(Alexander McQueen)的伊丽莎白风格(Elizabethan)登山靴,没准看起来会像一位非常时髦的农夫。绗缝夹克、双面羊绒宽松裤和皮草包受到时尚编辑的推崇,他们的选择往往引导时尚潮流。

秋冬时装季的另一大特色是面料的大量运用。用技术术语来说叫“超大服装”,设计师对此痴迷不已。保罗·卡(Paule Ka)白色锤花缎宽松裤一条裤腿所用的布料足够做一条裙子了。羊毛、蕾丝和金属提花布从模特的后背垂落下来,在双腿边打着旋。店家可能会为穿不了这么多布料的顾客打造精简版服装。

让人眼前一亮的设计包括托马斯·梅耶(Tomas Maier)对比强烈的宝缇嘉(Bottega Veneta)系列以及华伦天奴(Valentino)的波普艺术(Pop Art)系列斗篷和印花公主裙。荷兰设计师艾丽斯·范荷本(Iris Van Herpen)以3D打印的超高跟鞋脱颍而出,加上她的出色表现力让人联想到她以前在亚历山大·麦昆实习时的情形。而亚历山大·麦昆自己的时装系列则令人失望。该品牌的时装秀似乎陷入了伊丽莎白风格的泡沫中,失去了已故设计师麦昆在设计中展示的那种性感女性气质。

而对参加者来说,这是个充满波折的时装季。近12名编辑和嘉宾在离开奥斯卡·德拉伦塔(Oscar de la Renta)纽约时装秀时被困在一幢高楼的电梯里。他们被消防队员救出来之后用梯子经逃生口离开了电梯。还有几百人(包括《Vogue》杂志的安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour))被伦敦的大风耽搁了行程,他们的飞机改道都柏林和纽卡斯尔(Newcastle)。那么在米兰和巴黎等待他们的又是什么呢?是生病:一种讨厌的肠胃炎在时尚品牌员工、名流和编辑之间传播。



尼古拉·盖斯奇埃尔(Nicolas Ghesquiere)接替马克·雅各布斯(Marc Jacobs)执掌路易威登(Louis Vuitton)后,带领该品牌和时尚走向了崭新的方向。盖斯奇埃尔是一位能对其他设计师产生影响的人。今天那些时尚的运动衫、罗马鞋和氯丁橡胶面料服装都可溯及他为巴黎世家(Balenciaga)所做的设计。如今,在超大服装面料大行其道之时,盖斯奇埃尔却走出一条纤细、紧身和迷你的路线。这是一场无声的处女秀,但释放的信息却非常清晰。


卡拉·迪瓦伊(Cara Delevingne)和琼·斯莫斯(Joan Smalls)等香奈儿的模特在巴黎大皇宫(Grand Palais)里搭建的一个超市里一边漫步,一边往购物车里装东西。超市的货架上摆放着带有香奈儿标识的牛奶、小扁豆、鸡蛋、火腿和椰子等商品。来宾们纷纷在过道上自拍。补充一句,这是卡尔·拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)多年来最棒的设计系列之一。


你那件蒙口(Moncler)羽绒服太落伍了,它已被唐娜·凯伦(Donna Karan)、巴黎世家和渡边淳弥(Junya Watanabe)等几十个品牌对羽绒服的巧妙诠释超越——更不用说克里斯汀·迪奥(Christian Dior)的羽绒连衣裙和Kenzo的羽绒手抓包了。我们很难找到没有绗缝或羽绒的时装系列了。


怎样才能复现厚毛衣潮流,但仍然有所突破呢?对一些设计师来说,答案就是本季最不可能在街头流行起来的潮流:粗毛毛衣、大衣或连衣裙。普拉达(Prada)、林达克(Derek Lam)、汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)和维果罗夫(Viktor & Rolf)都推出了这类时装,它们适合那些紧追时尚,但身边集中供暖设施欠佳的人。


在卢浮宫(Louvre)装饰艺术博物馆(Musee des Arts Decoratifs)举办的德赖斯·范诺顿(Dries Van Noten)时装展开幕式,吸引了设计界偶像人物克劳德·蒙塔纳(Claude Montana)和情色珠宝设计师贝托尼·弗农(Betony Vernon)等名人。香槟开瓶后,来宾纷纷涌入楼梯间。身着个性版迷彩裤的范诺顿说,他根本想不到自己能在卢浮宫举办作品回顾展。该展览的策展人帕梅拉·戈布林(Pamela Golbin)与设计师共同准备了两年时间,展览探讨了戈布林创意灵感的来源,这就是为什么展厅里有许多折起的文章,作者是英国艺术家弗兰西斯·培根(Francis Bacon)。


在伦敦时装秀中,眼看就要被永久定位为Photoshop女王的玛丽·卡特兰佐(Mary Katrantzou)却未展示任何数码印花作品。她那件带金色穗带(穗带由女王陛下的御用穗带制作商制作)的貂皮运动衫定价74,400美元。 另外两套时装不是用剪刀,而是用钳子制作的,她把屠夫的锁子甲围裙改造成斜裁的裙装。


人们越来越受不了薇欧奈(Vionnet)了,这个品牌每过几季就会换一位新设计师。该品牌现在由俄罗斯石油业巨头戈加·阿什克纳季(Goga Ashkenazi)拥有和设计,已经变得非常糟糕,设计拙劣的衣服缝合得很蹩脚。几条连衣裙的胸部有怪异的横向开口。尽管阿什克纳腰包鼓鼓,而且投入了巨额广告费,却没能取得什么轰动效果。


詹恩·温纳(Jann Wenner)的儿子诺厄(Noah)和西奥(Theo)拿着一瓶香槟走进 罗兰(Saint Laurent)的服装秀现场,在第一排紧挨“the Kills”乐队的艾利森·莫斯哈特(Allison Mosshart)就座。坐在旁边的还有让-保罗·高缇耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)、阿瑟丁·阿拉亚(Azzedine Alaia)和璞琪(Pucci)的彼得·邓达斯(Peter Dundas)。法国总统前女友瓦莱丽·特里耶韦莱(Valerie Trierweiler)也坐在这儿,还有凯瑟琳·德纳芙(Catherine Deneuve)、杰德·贾格尔(Jade Jagger)、凯特·莫斯(Kate Moss)和一位泰国公主。既然这是第一排——你会禁不住想偷听他们的谈话。第二排就座的顶级大腕当属瓦伦蒂诺(Valentino) 。安娜·温图尔坐在第二排引发了时尚圈的一阵窃窃私语,不过她放弃第一排座位是为了和她带来的一位嘉宾坐在一起。


制鞋大师马诺洛·伯拉尼克(Manolo Blahnik)已经有很多年没在纽约举办作品秀了。伯拉尼克的陈列室里挤满了崇拜者,他们带着宗教般的敬畏欣赏伯拉尼克那些精致的美鞋。视频上放着这位设计师在工作室里工作的场景,他有时自言自语,有时对着鞋子耳语,这是他的习惯。(谁知道呢?)


当你看到T型台上模特们穿的时装时,你只能臆测这些衣服穿在普通人身上效果如何,而效果不佳是很容易得出的判断。针对人们的这种猜测,里克·欧文斯(Rick Owens)让各种各样的模特试穿他充满怪诞T台时尚的时装系列,其中既有人们熟悉的纤瘦模特,也有年龄、体型、肤色和发色(包括头发灰白的女性)各异的普通女性。