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T台上的足下风景

更新时间:2014-2-26 14:34:26 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

Shoes Are Getting More Attention on Designer Runways
T台上的足下风景

As the fashion week flock left Alexander Wang's runway show Saturday, amid complaints about the Brooklyn, N.Y., venue and the frigid night, a chorus of praise emerged not just for Mr. Wang's fashion but also for his footwear.

'A pair of boots that I need right now,' Nina Garcia, creative director at Marie Claire magazine and a judge on TV's 'Project Runway,' captioned a photo on Instagram of riding boots that reached up over the knee. 'Next level boots,' wrote Tina Craig, co-founder of the popular fashion site Snob Essentials, on her picture of mules with a shin-guard-like attachment.

Fashion week audiences are turning their gaze downward to the shoes designers pair with new looks. Shoes change the way models walk and wear clothes, helping to set the overall mood at a show. There's a big difference between a model strolling in flats and one strutting in stilettos. As more designers see the profit potential in footwear, they are lavishing more attention on the shoes they send down the runway.

'Sex and the City' made shoe-obsession popular: Who could forget Sarah Jessica Parker as Carrie Bradshaw proclaiming 'Hello, lover!' to a pair of shoes in a store window? But social media has upped the ante. An oft-seen Instagram pose is to point the phone's camera down at one's feet. At fashion shows, shoe photos are best when taken from the front row, making them a status symbol when shared online.

But shoes also are a roll of the dice. While designers can fiddle with and remake clothes right up until show time, shoes require advance planning. Orders typically are placed three months or more in advance -- when the concept for a collection has been decided but no fabrics or samples are in hand.

At Chanel's haute couture catwalk last month, Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld paired every tweed suit and glittery gown with a matching pair of sneakers. The models bounded down the shiny staircase, which in heels would have been an ominous runway hazard.

Even small touches on footwear can make a difference. On Saturday, Prabal Gurung sent his models down the runway in delicate strappy sandals adorned with oxidized silver anklets, which had been sent to Italy from Nepal and attached to each shoe. The anklets jingled softly as the models walked, a subtle touch contrasting with the bold clothing.

Shoes also have the power to make an entire show go awry. Sky-high heels are often to blame when a model falls on the runway. At Mara Hoffman's fall show, models wore black wedge mules with slippery soles that caused many to shuffle while turning before the cameras.

'You don't want to put a shoe on a girl that she really can't walk in it because then it becomes distracting,' says Georgina Chapman, co-founder and designer of Marchesa, which is often seen on the red carpet. Ms. Chapman says she pays attention to how shoes change body proportions, including the length of the leg and torso. 'Your body language changes, the way you stand changes, and that affects how you look,' she says.

Designers who lack a commercial shoe line may collaborate for runway shows with a big shoe maker, the way Marchesa does with Christian Louboutin. And designers who do sell shoes increasingly see them as a brand-building business, and the runway as their showcase.

Shoes are 'a very profitable business,' says Alex Bolen, chief executive of Oscar de la Renta. Once the expense of making a prototype is absorbed and the minimum factory order reached, sizable profits await in a bigger run. When going from 2,000 pairs to 20,000 pairs, Mr. Bolen says, the potential profit margin on the last pair of shoes can be above 80%.

Shoes, like handbags, attract new customers. 'While we are always looking for more customers for our $5,000 cocktail dress, a $500-to-$600 pair of shoes is a much bigger, addressable market,' Mr. Bolen says.

But designers in the business of selling clothes usually don't let shoes steal the show. For her fall 2014 collection, Rebecca Minkoff ordered fur-lined booties and other shoes in darker shades 'to really let the clothing shine,' she said.

Footwear influences clothing design more often than people think. 'If all of a sudden platform heels are in, then it's a no-brainer that goes with a wide-leg, longer pant,' says Amy Smilovic, creative director and owner of the contemporary label Tibi. 'If the shoes start to get embellished, then you can count for sure that the clothing that season will get monochromatic and clean.'

Flat shoes were popular soon after Celine showed flat, furry-bed sandals for spring 2013, and their relaxed ease has led to a similar sensibility in clothing. Designer Victoria Beckham, herself often seen in form-fitting dresses and towering heels, showed some oxford flats from Manolo Blahnik for fall paired with slouchy pants and loose dresses. A few days before her show on Sunday, Ms. Beckham shared a photo of a pair of 'smoking' flats on Instagram and wrote 'living in these till show day.' The post made headlines in E! Online and Us Magazine.

Last-minute footwear adjustments are possible but not easy. Days before the DKNY show on Sunday, Eileen Shields, the brand's vice president of design for footwear, cut and resewed the shafts of some mid-calf boots to hug the models' skinny legs.

Sunday morning, she and her team were backstage on the bathroom floor, painting booties. A shipment of Mary Janes hadn't arrived, forcing the team to substitute in ankle boots. They were black, and the look called for gray. It took three shades of car paint to achieve the right color and shiny finish.

The drama wasn't over. One pair of boots was a size 9 1/2 and the model wore size 7. She was a good sport, Ms. Shields said, asking only for insoles to pad the boots' interior. Afterward, Ms. Shields counted off six insoles layered inside the right boot and said, 'In the left shoe, I put two more in -- she had to do eight.'

Matching shoes and models can be a nightmare, Tibi's Ms. Smilovic says. 'We have definitely been in a position where I'm choosing a model by her foot -- where she walks in and I'm not even looking at her face. I'm just like, 'What size shoe are you?' '

Two models may share one pair of shoes, but it complicates things further. At Misha Nonoo's first-ever runway show last September, the young designer had one pair of watercolor-print heels for two models. The girls were Looks 14 and 23, spaced so the first would have time to get down the runway and back for the switch.

During the show, the Look 14 model and her dresser forgot to hand off the shoes, leaving the Look 23 girl stranded at the entry to the catwalk. 'My stylist is standing next to me and goes, 'Oh my God!' followed by several expletives,' Ms. Nonoo recalls. They found her in the chaos of the dressing area and retrieved the shoes just in time.

2月8日星期六,纽约时装周亚历山大·王(Alexander Wang,王大仁)的T台秀结束后,离去的人们不乏对布鲁克林走秀场地以及寒冷天气的抱怨,不过王大仁的时装还有他设计的鞋子都受到一片称赞。

《嘉人》(Marie Claire)杂志创意总监兼电视节目《天桥风云》(Project Runway)的裁判尼娜·加西亚(Nina Garcia)在Instagram上分享了一双高过膝盖的长统靴照片,还配了“我现在需要一双这样的靴子”的文字。流行时尚网站Snob Essentials联合创始人蒂娜·克雷格(Tina Craig)在一双配有类似护腿板的穆勒鞋(mules)图片的说明中写到:“这是升级版靴子”。

时装周的观众们正放低视线,将目光聚焦到设计师们搭配以新造型的鞋子上。鞋子改变了模特们行走和穿衣的方式,帮助设定整台时装秀的基调。模特穿着平底鞋闲庭信步与穿着细高跟鞋昂首阔步差别很大。随着越来越多的设计师认识到鞋履的盈利潜力,他们开始对自己发布在T台上的鞋子倾注更多精力。

美剧《欲望都市》(Sex and the City)掀起了鞋控热潮:谁会忘记莎拉·杰西卡·帕克(Sarah Jessica Parker)饰演的凯莉·布拉德肖(Carrie Bradshaw)对着橱窗中的一双美鞋大呼“哈喽,爱人!”的场景呢?社交媒体让人们对鞋子的热爱变得更现代化。Instagram上一个常见的摆拍角度是把手机摄像头向下对准自己的双脚。在时装秀上,只有在前排能够拍到最佳的鞋履照片,所以上传分享这种照片成为了一种身份的象征。

但设计鞋子也得靠运气。直到秀展开始前,设计师都可以随意摆弄和重做服装,但鞋子却必须提前安排好。制鞋订单通常在提前三个月或更早的时候就下达了——而此时一个时装系列的理念刚刚被确定,根本没有布料或样衣供参考。

在香奈儿(Chanel)上个月的高定时装秀上,创意总监卡尔·拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)为每一套花呢套装和闪耀的礼服都配了一双球鞋。模特们跳下了亮闪闪的楼梯,如果穿着高跟鞋肯定就会有危险。

对鞋子来说,即使很小的改动都会有很大不同。2月8日,普拉巴·高隆(Prabal Gurung)让自己的模特穿着装饰有氧化银脚链的系带凉鞋走下T台,这些脚链都是从尼泊尔运到意大利装在每双鞋上的。模特们走动时,这些脚链轻轻地发出叮当声,微妙的细节与大胆的着装形成鲜明对比。

鞋子也有把整台秀搞砸的能力。模特常常会因为穿超高高跟鞋在台上跌倒。在马拉·霍夫曼(Mara Hoffman)的秋季时装秀上,模特美女穿着黑色坡跟穆勒鞋,光滑的鞋底导致很多模特在镜头前转身时都拖着脚走。

玛切萨(Marchesa)联合创始人及设计师乔治娅·查普曼(Georgina Chapman)说:“给一个女孩穿没法好好走路的鞋是不行的,因为这样会分散她的注意力。”该品牌经常出现在红毯上。查普曼说,她很关注鞋子对身体比例的影响,包括小腿和躯干的长度。她说:“你的身体语言会变,你的站姿会变,这些会影响你的整体形象。”

一些不具有商业鞋履品牌的设计师会与大型鞋履制造商合作为时装秀设计鞋子,玛切萨和克里斯蒂安·卢布坦(Christian Louboutin)就是这样。鞋子大卖的设计师越来越把这种合作当作是品牌建设的机会,把时装秀当作是作品展示的平台。

Oscar de la Renta首席执行长亚历克斯·博伦(Alex Bolen)说,鞋子是“利润非常可观的行业”。一旦原型的成本被消化并达到最低的工厂订单数量,高额利润就指日可待。博伦说,当产量从2,000双增长到2万双的时候,最后那双鞋的潜在利润率可达80%以上。

和包一样,鞋子也会吸引新客户。伯伦说:“我们总在为5,000美元的酒会礼服寻找更多的客户,而其实500到600美元一双的鞋子则是规模大得多的、更具潜力的市场。”

但身处服装行业的设计师们通常不会让鞋子抢了风头。2014秋季系列中,瑞贝卡·明可弗(Rebecca Minkoff)订购了颜色较深的镶毛边短靴及其他鞋子,她说这是为了“让衣服出彩”。

鞋子对服装设计的影响比人们想象得要大。当代品牌Tibi创意总监及老板艾米·斯米洛维奇(Amy Smilovic)说:“如果突然之间松糕鞋流行起来了,那么宽腿长款裤子肯定也会随之流行起来。如果鞋子开始有装饰了,那么那一季的衣服肯定就会变得干 、色彩单一。”

Celine在2013年春季秀出毛绒底平底鞋后不久,平底鞋开始流行起来,这种款式的轻松自在使得服装设计也出现了类似的感觉。常穿修身裙和高跟鞋的设计师维多利亚·贝克汉姆(Victoria Beckham)也开始穿马诺洛·伯拉尼克(Manolo Blahnik)秋季款的牛津平底鞋,搭配宽松的裤子和连身裙。2月9日时装秀的前几天,维多利亚在Instagram上分享了一双“冒烟”平底鞋的照片,配上了“发布会前就穿这双鞋了”的文字。这条帖子成了E! Online 和Us Magazine的头条。

最后时刻对鞋子进行调整是可以的,但做起来并不容易。2月9日DKNY发布会前几天,鞋履设计副总裁艾琳·希尔兹(Eileen Shields)将几双中筒靴的鞋筒剪掉重新进行了缝制,以契合模特的细腿。

2月9日上午,她和她的团队在后台卫生间地板上给靴子刷漆。Mary Janes及踝靴的一批货还没到,团队不得不寻找替代品。靴子是黑色的,但介绍说的是灰色。最后用了三种颜色的车漆才达到理想的颜色和光面。

麻烦还没结束。一双靴子是9号半,但是模特穿7号。希尔兹说,她很好说话,只要求在里面垫上鞋垫。后来,希尔兹数了数右脚垫的六幅鞋垫说,“左脚还得多两块,得垫八块鞋垫。”

Tibi的斯米洛维奇说,鞋子和模特的搭配真是噩梦。她说:“一直以来我们都是根据鞋码挑模特——她走进来的时候我根本就不看她的脸,而是问‘你穿多大的鞋?’”

两个模特可以共享一双鞋,但会让事情更复杂。去年9月举办首次时装秀时,年轻设计师米沙·诺努(Misha Nonoo)为两个模特提供了一双水彩印花高跟鞋。两个人分别是第14号和23号出场,这样第一个模特就会有时间下台换鞋。

结果第14号上场的模特和她的造型师忘记把鞋交给23号模特了,导致后者滞留在T台入口处。诺努回忆说:“我的设计师站在我旁边说‘噢我的天啊!’,还骂了几句。”最后他们在乱糟糟的更衣区找到了14号,及时拿到了鞋子。

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