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索契冬奥会之时尚风格

更新时间:2014-2-17 20:39:29 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

What Really Matters at the Sochi Olympics: How You Look
索契冬奥会之时尚风格

Let's talk for a moment about the Olympic style, because style always matters at the Olympics, in particular the Winter Olympics, which is full of judgy-judgy, interpretive sports. But style counts everywhere. Even if you don't think you're being judged, you're being judgy-judged. Trust me.

A twist on Sochi style, of course, has been the weather, specifically the lack of cold, and how this has impacted what people are wearing. Or rather, what they're not. The other day a slopestyle skier skied in a T-shirt! A T-shirt! If you overstuffed your bags expecting the Winter Games to be a frigid, fur-lined glamour-in-Aspen blast, shoving thermal underwear upon thermal underwear into a side pocket, you overprepared. Hats are almost unnecessary, except at night. Gloves are overkill. I would suggest donating mittens to be used as sweaters for area cats, but area cats don't need sweaters. Boots still have some purpose in the mountains, if only to trudge through the sunny mountain slush.

Still, some specific trends have emerged:

Puffer jackets: It doesn't matter if you are an athlete or just an attendee, you are behind the curve if you are not in Sochi with a super duper lightweight puffer jacket, which is the outerwear of choice here in both the coastal cluster and the mountain region. You have seen these jackets. Lightweight puffer jackets are simply puffer jackets that have been stripped of weighty frills, have smaller puff compartments and weigh as much as an issue of the New Republic. The best ones can be smooshed up into a compact ball and stuffed inside a backpack, or, better yet, another lightweight puffer jacket. This is something of a tweener winter fashion-it really works best with the temperature hovering between 45 and 55 Fahrenheit-but it's perfect for Sochi.

Even if they're nowhere near as daring or memorable as the psychedelic Sochi volunteer jackets-the true style statement of these Games-there is great puffer pride here, a competition within the competition. The slickest of puffers have their nation or company name emblazoned somewhere prominently on the material. Nike NKE +0.27% has sewn the puffers for the U.S. team, which come in metallic silver, chrome almost, giving the wearer the appearance of a bulging pan of Jiffy Pop. Nike also furnishes the slick puffer jackets for NBC, which, owing to the network's clandestine internal Starbucks in Sochi, are rumored to come with hidden interior Secret Frappucino (SeFrapp) pockets.

Hockey jerseys: Hockey is the It Sport at these games, and got kicked with a supercharge on Saturday when the U.S. men's team defeated Russia 3-2 in an epic preliminary throwdown that somehow lived up to the comical pregame hype. Oversized and not the slightest bit body-fitting, hockey jerseys are the most socially acceptable of jerseys for fans to wear to the actual game (unlike football jerseys, which are deployed as a license for your dentist to behave like a lunatic on Sundays).

There are some beautiful oldies in sight here in Russia: some old CCCP, some old Team USA, a Red Wings Yzerman and a Blackhawks fan in a DITKA. (Yes, Ditka.) Nike took some grief for some of its U.S. team jerseys, but the retro USA ones they busted out on Sunday versus Slovenia (who dressed like the Hartford Whalers mixed with Key lime pie) were perfect. The new wave has other real standouts: Russia's are old-fashioned, double-headed-eagled, spectacular; Latvia is rocking handsome crimson; Canada again keeps it simple, graceful, maple-leafed. The best are probably Slovakia's, which have the national anthem scrolling across in horizontal pinstripes-a gimmick the Yankees should borrow, substituting lyrics for payroll figures and the telephone numbers of Alex Rodriguez's attorneys.

Skinsuits: By now you have probably heard about the style travails of the U.S. speedskating team, which arrived in Sochi with great medal ambitions, but has fallen apart amid an anxious fashion crisis. The Journal's Josh Robinson and Sara Germano broke the news that after a string of lackluster results, the speed skaters were in revolt about their Under Armour skin suits, which were allegedly handcrafted on Mars by robots living in the future. On Saturday, the team went back to the old suits and...same lackluster performance. So was it the suits? Chaos abounds, but there's a suspicion the suit-roversy injured team confidence, so even if the old suit was helping, it was undermined by all the rumpus. This has led to a conversation about the psychological benefits of style-if you are, in fact, what you wear-and you know this is all leading up to U.S. speedskating suits in Pyeongchang 2018 designed by Tom Ford, who is probably going to insist on cuff links, too.

Pants: Enough has already been said about curling pants and the curling pants craze, in particular the daring curling pants of the Norwegian curling team, which everywhere else are simply known as oh-look-it's-the-crazy-guy-at-a-barbecue pants. Pants in ice dancing are high-waisted, like Joaquin Phoenix and his buddies in 'Her.' Then there was Henrik Harlaut, the Swedish freestyle skier who enjoys skiing with Dirk Nowitzki's snowpants dangling from his knees.

'It's part of my style,' Harlaut said.

Harmless fun. Everybody loves a pant-based sport. In Sochi, and the rest of the world. It's just a style truth.

让我们来谈一谈奥运会的“风格”。对奥运会来说,“风格”一直是个要紧问题。而对于裁判扮演重要角色、充斥着诠释性体育项目的冬奥会来说,“风格”尤其重要。但“风格”并不仅限于赛场上,它出现在奥运会的各个角落。即便你以为自己不会受到关注,但是你的风格也在被周围的人加以评论。相信我说的话。

对于索契冬奥会的风格,一个令人纠结的地方自然是天气问题,尤其是冬奥会举行期间缺乏寒冷天气,人们需要穿什么衣服,或者更准确的说,人们不需要穿什么衣服受到了很大影响。在前些天的花式滑雪比赛中,有一位参赛运动员竟然穿着T恤参加比赛!短袖T恤衫啊!如果你以为冬奥会举办地一定会像美国阿斯蓬(著名滑雪胜地)那般寒冷,人们都穿着毛皮衬里的冬服,所以往自己的行李中塞了太多的东西、装进一件又一件保暖内衣,那么你就大错特错了。在索契,戴帽子是没有必要的,除了晚上。手套也没什么用。我建议你还是把毛线手套捐给当地的小猫当毛衣穿,不过当地的猫咪也不需要外套。但是,靴子在山地还是有些用的,尤其是在阳光灿烂的日子里,长途跋涉于泥泞的雪地里时靴子还是有帮助的。

不过,还是有一些独特的风尚在索契传播开来。

羽绒服:不管你是运动员还是一般参与者,如果你在索契没有一套超轻款羽绒,那你就落伍了。无论是在沿海场馆地区,还是山地场馆地区,超轻款羽绒服都是必备外套。这种外套并不是新生事物,它其实还是羽绒服,不过省去了厚重的部分,充绒隔间较小,整件外套的重量和一本新闻杂志差不多。质量好的此种羽绒服可以压扁卷成一个小球,然后装进背包里,甚至是塞进另一件超轻款羽绒服中。虽然是冬季服装,但是这种外套不太好归类,因为它比较适用于气温位于7-13摄氏度左右的时候,不过这倒是十分适合索契的天气。尽管这种羽绒服看上去不像索契奥运会志愿者制服那样色彩迷幻、令人印象深刻。不过各式各款羽绒服却在索契大方异彩,彼此争艳。最为光滑的那些羽绒服豪不含蓄的在面料上打上出产国或公司的标志。美国国家队的队服由耐克公司(Nike)提供,这款超轻羽绒服呈金属银色。耐克也为美国全国广播公司(NBC)提供了面料光滑的羽绒服。由于NBC在索契奥运会媒体中心“秘密”地开了一家内部星巴克(Starbucks),所以有传言说耐克为NBC提供的羽绒服里面还暗藏了一个星冰乐(Frappucino)口袋。

冰球服:在冬奥会上,冰球是最受瞩目的运动,上周六的俄美之战更加精彩。美国男子冰球队以3:2的比分在预赛中战胜俄罗斯队,实现了赛前造势时的玩笑话。冰球服通常尺码过大,根本就不合身,但冰球服是在真正观看比赛的时候被冰球迷普遍接受的着装(这一点和橄榄球赛衣不同)。在俄罗斯还能看到一些漂亮的老式冰球服,比如有几个球迷穿着苏联队服,也有几个穿着美国队服,一位球迷穿上了红翼队冰球服,还有一个黑鹰队球迷穿着一件Ditka的球衣(没错,就是Ditka)。耐克设计的几款美国队服有些让人失望,但周日对阵斯洛文尼亚(这个队的队服像是哈特福捕鲸者的队服跟酸橙派的混搭)的时候,美国队穿的怀旧款队服则非常完美。

在这一波新浪潮中,其他胜出者还包括:俄罗斯的队服(老式、印有双头鹰标志,非常好看)、拉脱维亚的队服(深红色非常抢眼)和加拿大的队服(简洁、典雅、印着枫叶图案)。最好看的大概要数斯洛伐克的队服,他们把国歌横着印在队服上,形成了一道道横条——洋基队应该借用这一手法,把国歌歌词换成工资数额和罗德里奎兹(Alex Rodriguez)的律师们的电话号码就行了。

速滑服:到现在为止,你可能已经听说过了美国速滑队的伤心故事。他们抱着极大的夺牌热望来到索契,但在紧张的时尚危机中梦想破裂。《华尔街日报》的记者Josh Robinson和Sara Germano在一系列黯淡无光的结果出炉后报道说,速滑队员对他们的Under Armour队服感到厌恶,据说,队服是在火星上由生活在未来的机器人手工缝制的。

上周六,速滑队穿上了老款队服,结果呢,成绩还是一样不尽人意。那么,这到底是是不是队服的问题呢?虽然众说纷纭,但有人怀疑,因队服而起的争议打击了团队的信心,所以,就算老款队服能有所助益,也被这些口角完全抵消了。这还导致了一场有关着装风格带来的心理助益的对话——如果真是人靠衣衫马靠鞍的话,那么你就会知道,这样的对话将延续到2018年平昌冬奥会上汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)设计的美国速滑队服上,估计他很可能也会坚持用袖扣。

裤装:有关冰壶运动员的裤装以及人们对这种裤装的狂热,谈论的已经够多了,特别是挪威冰壶队大胆的裤装,这种裤装在世界任何其他地方都会被叫做“看呐那就是烧烤怪人穿的裤子”。冰上舞者穿的裤装腰线很高,就像华金·菲尼克斯(Joaquin Phoenix)和他的伙伴们在电影《她》(Her)当中穿的那种裤子。还有亨里克·哈劳特(Henrik Harlaut),这名瑞典自由滑雪运动员喜欢穿着诺维茨基(Dirk Nowitzki)式的长及膝盖的裤子滑雪。

哈劳特说,这是我个人风格的一部分。

这是无伤大雅的趣事。所有人都喜欢某种穿裤装的运动。在索契,在全球其他地方都是如此。这就是冬奥会的时尚真相。

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