您现在的位置: 纽约时报中英文网 >> 华尔街日报中英文版 >> 时尚 >> 正文


更新时间:2014-2-17 20:39:29 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

What Really Matters at the Sochi Olympics: How You Look

Let's talk for a moment about the Olympic style, because style always matters at the Olympics, in particular the Winter Olympics, which is full of judgy-judgy, interpretive sports. But style counts everywhere. Even if you don't think you're being judged, you're being judgy-judged. Trust me.

A twist on Sochi style, of course, has been the weather, specifically the lack of cold, and how this has impacted what people are wearing. Or rather, what they're not. The other day a slopestyle skier skied in a T-shirt! A T-shirt! If you overstuffed your bags expecting the Winter Games to be a frigid, fur-lined glamour-in-Aspen blast, shoving thermal underwear upon thermal underwear into a side pocket, you overprepared. Hats are almost unnecessary, except at night. Gloves are overkill. I would suggest donating mittens to be used as sweaters for area cats, but area cats don't need sweaters. Boots still have some purpose in the mountains, if only to trudge through the sunny mountain slush.

Still, some specific trends have emerged:

Puffer jackets: It doesn't matter if you are an athlete or just an attendee, you are behind the curve if you are not in Sochi with a super duper lightweight puffer jacket, which is the outerwear of choice here in both the coastal cluster and the mountain region. You have seen these jackets. Lightweight puffer jackets are simply puffer jackets that have been stripped of weighty frills, have smaller puff compartments and weigh as much as an issue of the New Republic. The best ones can be smooshed up into a compact ball and stuffed inside a backpack, or, better yet, another lightweight puffer jacket. This is something of a tweener winter fashion-it really works best with the temperature hovering between 45 and 55 Fahrenheit-but it's perfect for Sochi.

Even if they're nowhere near as daring or memorable as the psychedelic Sochi volunteer jackets-the true style statement of these Games-there is great puffer pride here, a competition within the competition. The slickest of puffers have their nation or company name emblazoned somewhere prominently on the material. Nike NKE +0.27% has sewn the puffers for the U.S. team, which come in metallic silver, chrome almost, giving the wearer the appearance of a bulging pan of Jiffy Pop. Nike also furnishes the slick puffer jackets for NBC, which, owing to the network's clandestine internal Starbucks in Sochi, are rumored to come with hidden interior Secret Frappucino (SeFrapp) pockets.

Hockey jerseys: Hockey is the It Sport at these games, and got kicked with a supercharge on Saturday when the U.S. men's team defeated Russia 3-2 in an epic preliminary throwdown that somehow lived up to the comical pregame hype. Oversized and not the slightest bit body-fitting, hockey jerseys are the most socially acceptable of jerseys for fans to wear to the actual game (unlike football jerseys, which are deployed as a license for your dentist to behave like a lunatic on Sundays).

There are some beautiful oldies in sight here in Russia: some old CCCP, some old Team USA, a Red Wings Yzerman and a Blackhawks fan in a DITKA. (Yes, Ditka.) Nike took some grief for some of its U.S. team jerseys, but the retro USA ones they busted out on Sunday versus Slovenia (who dressed like the Hartford Whalers mixed with Key lime pie) were perfect. The new wave has other real standouts: Russia's are old-fashioned, double-headed-eagled, spectacular; Latvia is rocking handsome crimson; Canada again keeps it simple, graceful, maple-leafed. The best are probably Slovakia's, which have the national anthem scrolling across in horizontal pinstripes-a gimmick the Yankees should borrow, substituting lyrics for payroll figures and the telephone numbers of Alex Rodriguez's attorneys.

Skinsuits: By now you have probably heard about the style travails of the U.S. speedskating team, which arrived in Sochi with great medal ambitions, but has fallen apart amid an anxious fashion crisis. The Journal's Josh Robinson and Sara Germano broke the news that after a string of lackluster results, the speed skaters were in revolt about their Under Armour skin suits, which were allegedly handcrafted on Mars by robots living in the future. On Saturday, the team went back to the old suits and...same lackluster performance. So was it the suits? Chaos abounds, but there's a suspicion the suit-roversy injured team confidence, so even if the old suit was helping, it was undermined by all the rumpus. This has led to a conversation about the psychological benefits of style-if you are, in fact, what you wear-and you know this is all leading up to U.S. speedskating suits in Pyeongchang 2018 designed by Tom Ford, who is probably going to insist on cuff links, too.

Pants: Enough has already been said about curling pants and the curling pants craze, in particular the daring curling pants of the Norwegian curling team, which everywhere else are simply known as oh-look-it's-the-crazy-guy-at-a-barbecue pants. Pants in ice dancing are high-waisted, like Joaquin Phoenix and his buddies in 'Her.' Then there was Henrik Harlaut, the Swedish freestyle skier who enjoys skiing with Dirk Nowitzki's snowpants dangling from his knees.

'It's part of my style,' Harlaut said.

Harmless fun. Everybody loves a pant-based sport. In Sochi, and the rest of the world. It's just a style truth.






在这一波新浪潮中,其他胜出者还包括:俄罗斯的队服(老式、印有双头鹰标志,非常好看)、拉脱维亚的队服(深红色非常抢眼)和加拿大的队服(简洁、典雅、印着枫叶图案)。最好看的大概要数斯洛伐克的队服,他们把国歌横着印在队服上,形成了一道道横条——洋基队应该借用这一手法,把国歌歌词换成工资数额和罗德里奎兹(Alex Rodriguez)的律师们的电话号码就行了。

速滑服:到现在为止,你可能已经听说过了美国速滑队的伤心故事。他们抱着极大的夺牌热望来到索契,但在紧张的时尚危机中梦想破裂。《华尔街日报》的记者Josh Robinson和Sara Germano在一系列黯淡无光的结果出炉后报道说,速滑队员对他们的Under Armour队服感到厌恶,据说,队服是在火星上由生活在未来的机器人手工缝制的。

上周六,速滑队穿上了老款队服,结果呢,成绩还是一样不尽人意。那么,这到底是是不是队服的问题呢?虽然众说纷纭,但有人怀疑,因队服而起的争议打击了团队的信心,所以,就算老款队服能有所助益,也被这些口角完全抵消了。这还导致了一场有关着装风格带来的心理助益的对话——如果真是人靠衣衫马靠鞍的话,那么你就会知道,这样的对话将延续到2018年平昌冬奥会上汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)设计的美国速滑队服上,估计他很可能也会坚持用袖扣。

裤装:有关冰壶运动员的裤装以及人们对这种裤装的狂热,谈论的已经够多了,特别是挪威冰壶队大胆的裤装,这种裤装在世界任何其他地方都会被叫做“看呐那就是烧烤怪人穿的裤子”。冰上舞者穿的裤装腰线很高,就像华金·菲尼克斯(Joaquin Phoenix)和他的伙伴们在电影《她》(Her)当中穿的那种裤子。还有亨里克·哈劳特(Henrik Harlaut),这名瑞典自由滑雪运动员喜欢穿着诺维茨基(Dirk Nowitzki)式的长及膝盖的裤子滑雪。