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男士首饰佩戴法则

更新时间:2014-2-17 11:43:01 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

The Rules of Men's Jewelry
男士首饰佩戴法则

It has been said a man needs no more ornaments than a watch and wedding ring. Perhaps that's because the idea of men wearing jewelry can evoke images of gold chains framed by a barely buttoned shirt. But there are many degrees of decoration between a strict limit of watch and wedding ring -- with the occasional cuff links, of course -- and the stuff of 'Saturday Night Fever.'

A few old-school accent pieces have started to make their way back into the gentleman's wardrobe -- the signet ring, the tie clip and the lapel pin -- thanks, in part, to the influence that the '50s have been wielding on menswear runways.

But how to wear all this hardware? 'There are a million ways to get it wrong and only a few to get it right,' said Tyler Thoreson, vice president of men's editorial and creative at Gilt Groupe. 'That's part of the fun -- it's a little tricky, and more rewarding to pull off in a sophisticated way.'

As a general rule, it's wise to err on the side of understatement. Employing a tie clip? Skip the lapel pin. Considering multiple rings? Leave that look to the likes of Johnny Depp.

With bracelets, too, less can be more. Let the Zoolanders flaunt coils of rope and leather that creep up their forearms. For laymen, one does the trick. Robert Bryan, author of the book 'American Fashion Menswear,' is a proponent of the classic chain link ID bracelet. With men's jewelry, generally, 'silver is the safer choice,' said Mr. Bryan, who also advised caution when it comes to decorative stones. 'They should be small and discreet, lest you be known as the Diamond Jim Brady of the office.'

It also helps to wear pieces that have a significance beyond sheer aesthetics -- jewelry that has a history or was received as a gift. 'I think for men, the key is that it have meaning,' said Lisa Salzer, who designs women's jewelry for her own label, Lulu Frost, and recently spun off a men's line called George Frost. Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president of menswear at Barneys New York, noted that bracelets are often bought as gifts since, unlike rings, they usually don't need to be sized.

Casual wrist-wear -- beads and bracelets made of worn leather and nautical-style rope, like those popularized by American brand Miansai -- suggests a life of adventure, imagined or not. However, more sophisticated pieces can carry a compelling back story, too. Jewelry designer Monique Pean, who recently launched a men's line, uses materials with notable past lives. Ms. Pean's tie clip is made of 18-karat recycled white gold, and ivory from a wooly mammoth sourced from the Arctic Circle, as well as onyx. 'Men gravitate toward fossils,' she noted.

Her distinctive clip brings a layer of intrigue to what can otherwise be a pragmatic accent. (The tie clip -- also known as tie bar or tie clasp -- does serve a function, unlike other pieces of jewelry: It keeps your tie straight, out of your face on a windy day and off of your plate.)

The clip should be narrower than the tie on which it's worn, said Mr. Thoreson. The correct placement is between the third and fourth shirt buttons. It should also be perfectly horizontal, though Mr. Bryan suggested that daring men might try the downward-tilted 'rakish angle' that flourished in the 1930s.

Hogan Gidley, a Republican consultant based in Columbia, S.C., and Washington, D.C., wears a sterling-silver tie clip from Tiffany's that's engraved with his initials. 'I might be an outlier in the party for wearing a tie clip, but I have seen more Republican pundits on TV starting to dabble in [them],' he said.

Known in political circles for being a dapper dresser, Mr. Gidley also sports a signet ring; it's engraved with a family crest that, he said, dates back hundreds of years. Signet rings are more prevalent in the South, he noted, and can also bear the crest or seal of the wearer's alma mater.

The signet ring is an age-old emblem of aristocratic belonging, yet designer brands are reworking the look, if not also the underlying message, into fashion accessories. See: Eddie Borgo (inlaid rubber), Bottega Veneta (a crosshatch motif that mimics the brand's signature woven leather) and Ms. Pean (fossilized walrus ivory). One savvy tactic is to wear the ring up against a wedding band, thereby confining digital decoration to a single finger.

Another badge that has become more of a style statement is the lapel pin. In the form of an American flag, it is de rigueur among politicians. But luxury labels have embraced pins as well. Several years ago, Italian brand Isaia created a mini-craze for the coral-shaped lapel pins that come with its jackets. And fashion houses that once tacked lapel pins onto suits as a bit of runway-only styling are now selling the accessories in stores. This spring, Louis Vuitton is offering pins shaped like pretzels and marijuana roach clips while Saint Laurent is selling one that looks like a surfer shooting the curl.

Lapel pins can add a hint of personality in more buttoned-up work environments. 'A lot of guys in my line of work don't want to draw attention to themselves. They'd rather just wear the uniform,' said Chris Schumacher, a 37-year-old Manhattan financier. He wasn't speaking for himself -- he's partial to nautical rope bracelets, and wears an enamel fox-hunting pin on his overcoat. He added, 'It's nice to see people getting away from just the watch and ring.'

有人说,除了手表和婚戒,男人什么装饰品都不需要。也许这是因为提到男人戴首饰,就会让人想到几乎不扣扣子的衬衫搭配金链子的画面。但在手表和婚戒的严格限制——当然偶尔还会有袖扣——和《周末夜狂热》(Saturday Night Fever)的那种肆无忌惮之间,还是有很多不同程度的配饰选择的。

几款老式的配饰开始返回男士们的衣橱——图章戒指、领带夹和领针——五十年代对男装时装秀一直以来的影响功不可没。

但是这些东西该如何佩戴?Gilt Groupe负责男装编辑和设计的副总裁泰勒·托雷森(Tyler Thoreson)说:“会有无数种方式搭配错,搭配正确只有几种方式。这就是乐趣所在——要搭配出精致品味有点难,但是做到以后又很有成就感。”

一般来说,保守一点是比较明智的。想用领带夹?那就不要领针了。想戴好几枚戒指?还是把这种装扮留给强尼·戴普(Johnny Depp)那种人吧。

手镯也是一样,宁少勿多。让超级名模祖兰德(Zoolander)们手臂上缠着一卷卷绳子和皮革招摇吧。对普通人来说,一件佩饰足够。《美国时尚男装》(American Fashion Menswear)一书作者罗伯特·布莱恩(Robert Bryan)是经典ID手链的推崇者。布莱恩说,对于男士首饰,一般来说“银饰是比较保险的选择”。他还提醒男士在佩戴石头首饰时因该注意:“应该小而低调,以免变成办公室里的 石吉姆·布拉迪(Diamond Jim Brady)。”

佩戴除了纯粹美感之外有特殊意义的首饰也不错——比如拥有一段历史的首饰或者别人馈赠的礼物。Lulu Frost创始人、该品牌女士珠宝设计师丽莎·萨尔泽(Lisa Salzer)说:“我觉得对男士来说,关键在于得有意义。”该品牌最近还推出了名为George Frost的男士品牌。纽约巴尼斯精品店(Barneys New York)男装执行副总裁汤姆·卡伦德里安(Tom Kalenderian)指出,人们通常会购买手链作为礼物,因为和戒指不同,手链的尺寸无所谓。

休闲腕饰——用旧皮革以及航海风格的麻绳做成的手串和手镯,就像美国品牌Miansai推广开来的那些——意味着一种冒险的生活,无论是想像还是现实。然而,更精致的首饰也会传达引人入胜的背后故事。最近推出一个男士珠宝品牌的珠宝设计师莫妮克·佩昂(Monique Pean)采用的是有着丰富历史的老材料。她的领带夹是用18克拉回收白金、北极圈长毛猛?象象牙以及缟玛瑙做成的。她说:“男人会被化石所吸引。”

她这枚独具特色的领带夹让一件原本实用的首饰平添了一重神秘色彩。(这枚领带夹确实有实用功能,这跟其他首饰不同:它会让你的领带保持笔直,刮风天不会吹到脸上,吃饭时不会掉到盘子里。)

托雷森说,领带夹应该比领带窄。正确的位置是衬衫第三颗和第四颗扣子之间。还应该与领带垂直,不过布莱恩表示,大胆的男士可以尝试1930年代流行的略向下倾斜的“狂放不羁的角度”。

南卡罗来纳州哥伦比亚(Columbia)及华盛顿特区共和党顾问霍根·吉德利(Hogan Gidley)戴了一枚来自蒂芙尼(Tiffany)的纯银领带夹,上面刻着他名字的首字母。他说:“在派队上佩戴领带夹,我可能显得不入流,但我看到越来越多的共和党权威人士开始在电视上戴这种东西。”

吉德利讲究穿戴在政治圈中是出了名的,他还戴着一枚图章戒指。他说,这枚戒指印着一个拥有数百年历史的家族徽章。他说,图章戒指在南方更流行,还可以印母校的徽章或印章。

这枚图章戒指是一个属于贵族的古老徽章,不过各大设计师品牌把它改造成了时尚配饰,或许它所隐含的信息也被改变了。埃迪·波尔格(Eddie Borgo)(内嵌橡胶)、宝缇嘉(Bottega Veneta)(模仿该品牌标志性编织皮革的交叉阴影图案)、还有佩昂(化石海象象牙)都是很好的例子。一个精明的策略是和结婚戒指戴在一起,这样就可以把装饰限制在一根手指上。

另一种越来越像是时尚宣言的徽章是领针。美国国旗形式的领针已经成为政客们的社交礼仪必备品了。但奢侈品牌也将领针纳入了时尚界。几年前,意大利品牌Isaia外套上的珊瑚形领针掀起了一阵小小的热潮。曾经把领针作为时装秀造型和西装搭配的时装品牌现在开始在店里销售这些配饰了。今年春季,路易威登(Louis Vuitton)推出了形如椒盐脆饼(pretzels)和大麻香烟烟嘴的领针,而Saint Laurent推出了一款形似冲浪手踩着浪花的领针。

在比较严肃的工作环境中,领针会给人增添一丝个性。曼哈顿37岁的金融家克里斯·舒马克(Chris Schumacher)说:“在我们这行,很多人都不想吸引别人的注意力。他们宁愿只穿制服。”他并不是在为自己辩护——他偏爱航海风格的麻绳手链,大衣上戴着一枚珐琅猎狐领针。他说:“很高兴看到人们开始摆脱单调的手表和戒指了。”

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