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白衬衫从配角跃升耀眼主角

更新时间:2014-1-29 14:43:56 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

White Shirts Go From Supporting Role To Star
白衬衫从配角跃升耀眼主角

This spring, the white shirt will be more than just a wardrobe staple.

Quite a few runway collections for spring included notable shirts with enough character to stand apart from the sea of white button-downs. Rather than playing a supporting role, these shirts stand as stars on their own.

Designers defined the looks with artful construction and detailing, employing pleats, open backs, cropped fronts, multiple layers, bibs, collars, darts and exaggerated dimensions, such as Tomas Maier's enlarged sleeves on a Bottega Veneta blouse.

This is a great example of designers innovating at a high level. White shirts have long been a wardrobe building block, ever since women first borrowed the look from the classic man's shirt. But they often require dressing up with scarves, jackets, or jewelry. Many of the latest versions, by contrast, go well beyond their menswear origins and cross the tricky border from wardrobe essential into high fashion.

Peter Som's white tuxedo shirt is a case in point. On his runway in New York, he placed the shirt over a floral skirt and leopard oxford shoes. Far from being overwhelmed by the busy patterns, the shirt held its own through smart details: a slightly cropped length that allowed it to be worn untucked at the hip, a smooth bib, and double-long cuffs -- French cuffs that hadn't been folded back.

What's more, that same shirt -- which will be priced at $595 -- could be tossed over denim, tucked under a suit jacket, or worn Le Smoking style with tuxedo pants. The shirt can be a wardrobe workhorse as well.

Mr. Som calls a white shirt 'a blank canvas.' 'It can be the star of a look or it can be a backdrop for a great print or [it can] hold accessories,' he says. 'That's the best thing about a white shirt -- the world is your oyster with one.'

Shirts from the spring 2014 collections will begin showing up in stores in another month or so. On the runways last fall in New York and Europe, more than two dozen major collections included great, fashion-forward white shirts.

Many were inspired by menswear looks, but their designs took artful dodges this way and that. Alessandro Dell'Acqua amped up the blousy volume while embroidering the collars and hems of masculine shirting and cropping others at the midriff.

Bold enough to be the statement piece of an outfit, these shirts aren't meant to disappear under a jacket. They should be worn untucked and easy, though of course nicely pressed.

For Hermes, designer Christophe Lemaire kept it simple and sleeveless. He paired a crisp white blouse -- in a fabric so finely woven it looked buttery -- with a richly multihued skirt. It's the sort of understated styling that Hermes is known for.

Carolina Herrera -- no stranger to the white blouse (hers are iconic, worn with a pleated skirt) -- created a shirt with a placket that buttoned to the side under a pert collar. She styled it as evening wear over a floor-length skirt, proving that a white blouse can go to any part of town, at any time of day or night. It's as versatile as a pair of black pumps.

Of course, you can't have the magic of a white shirt without some extra care. Keeping a white shirt white is challenging. Most of these shirts require ironing (the crisp look is part of the appeal), and shirts that are washed and ironed at home are likely to have a longer life than those sent to a laundry or dry cleaner.

When caring for a good white blouse, less is more. Cotton should be laundered, not dry-cleaned, says Susan McManigal, owner of the century-old French Hand Laundry and Dry Cleaning in Pasadena, Calif. At home, use pure soap such as Ivory or Dreft, not detergents, which have harsh chemicals that can cause discoloration and damage fabrics. Ms. McManigal has her water softened and filtered with charcoal -- at the laundry and at her home -- to help the pure soaps work better.

Some designers played with man-shirting as tunics and dresses. The Belgian designer Christian Wijnants attached a shirt-look top to a skirt to create a loose dress, easy to throw on and easy to wear. For Theyskens Theory, Olivier Theyskens did tuxedo-look shirting as a blouse, a tunic and a dress -- the latter coming across as vaguely Amish.

One of my favorite approaches was taken by Raf Simons at Dior. Mr. Simons isn't afraid to use old techniques in new ways, so he did the man-shirt as a dress (in palest lavender rather than white), rolling up the sleeves to the elbow and exaggerating the collar. Several pleats on one side cinched the waist. In one look, the back became the front, with an unbuttoned slit at the hem and an open neck plunging down the back.

The attraction of these is the gender-bending play between masculine and feminine. They are sexy clothes, but not overtly so, because they are loose, and cover up the skin.

'The crisp freshness of white cotton just adds a great note of modest formality,' says designer Rick Owens who brought his cool minimalism to tunics and dresses in the fabric.

Mr. Owens wryly notes that a brilliant white shirt can make whites around it look dim. 'You just have to be careful,' he says, that 'you have beautifully colored teeth to wear it.'

《华尔街日报》─今年春季,白衬衫的身份将不再只是衣橱主打。

不少春季系列在T台上展示了吸人眼球的衬衫,它们特色鲜明,足以在海量系扣领白衬衫中脱颍而出。这些衬衫不再充当配角,它们本身就成了明星。

设计师们给这些款型赋予了精巧的结构与细节,他们运用了褶皱、露背、短前襟、层叠、围兜装饰、衣领、缝褶和夸张的尺寸等元素,比如葆蝶家(Bottega Veneta)的托马斯·梅尔(Tomas Maier)就设计了一款袖子宽大的女式衬衫。

这极好地展示了设计师高层次的创新。自从女性最初从经典男士衬衫借来这一款型后,多年来白衬衫一直是衣橱中的必备品。它们常常需要借助丝巾、外套或珠宝来搭配。相比之下,最新版型的白衬衫有许多都跳脱出了它们的男装起源,并且完成了从衣橱必备到高端时装这一颇有难度的转型。

邓志明(Peter Som)设计的礼服衬衫就是一个典型的例子。在纽约的T台秀上,他以一款花朵图案短裙和一双豹纹牛津鞋作为它的搭配。这件衬衫完全没有被裙子和鞋子繁复的图案压制住,凭借巧妙的细节撑住了自己的气场。它的长度略微偏短,这样可以不用把它塞在裙子内穿,它的围兜装饰也很优雅,而且采用了双层袖口──未翻叠的法式袖口。

此外,这款衬衫(售价将定为595美元)还可搭配牛仔裤或者罩上一件西装外套穿,也可配搭晚装裤打造出“吸烟装”造型。衬衫还可以做衣橱中的实用单品。

邓志明把白衬衫比作了“一张空白画布”。他说:“它可以是造型中的明星,也可以是精美图案的背景,还可撑起配饰。白衬衫最大的优点是──你可以对它进行随意发挥。”

2014春季系列的衬衫再过一个月左右就会开始在各大商场上架。去年秋季,在纽约和欧洲的各大秀场,有20余个主流系列推出了精致而时尚的白衬衫。

其中有许多的设计灵感源自男装款式,但它们的设计又采用了这样或那样的巧妙的小心思。亚历山德罗·德拉夸(Alessandro Dell'Acqua)给阳刚气质的衬衫的衣领和折边做了绣花处理,还加大了衬衫的宽松度,还把其他一些设计成了露脐的短款。

这些衬衫风格张扬,足以成为一整套行头中的耀眼单品,它们可不是用来套在外套内穿的。它们不应当再被塞起来,而是要随性地穿着,当然你还要把它们熨妥贴。

爱马仕(Hermes)设计师克里斯托夫·勒迈尔(Christophe Lemaire)设计的白衬衫则是简约的无袖款。他以色彩丰富的多色短裙搭配干 利落的白衬衫,衬衫的布料质地细腻,看上去非常顺滑。它展现的是爱马仕那种闻名的低调风格。

卡罗琳娜·埃雷拉(Carolina Herrera)对白衬衫可谓驾轻就熟(她设计的白衬衫具有标志性,常与百褶裙搭配)。她设计的一款白衬衫的衣襟边是斜着系在时髦的衣领下的。她用一件及地半身裙把它打造成了晚装,证明了白衬衫可以在白天或晚上的任何时候出现在城中的任何一个地方。它就像一双黑色单鞋一样实用百搭。

当然,如果不多加打理的话,你是穿不出白衬衫的那种魅力的。保持白衬衫颜色洁白颇有难度。大多数白衬衫都需要熨烫(利落的外型是白衬衫部分吸引力所在),在家中清洗和熨烫的衬衫可能会比送到洗衣店或干洗店洗的衬衫更耐穿。

在打理一件质地优良的白衬衫时,简单即好。加州帕萨迪纳(Pasadena)的百年洗衣店French Hand Laundry and Dry Cleaning的店主苏珊·麦克马尼格(Susan McManigal)称,棉质布料应水洗而不是干洗。在家中打理时,可使用Ivory 或Dreft的天然皂,不要使用洗涤剂,因为它们含有会使衣物褪色和损害布料的刺激性化学物。无论是在洗衣店还是家中,麦克马尼格会用木炭过滤水并软化它,以便让天然皂更能发挥作用。

有些设计师在男士衬衫上玩起了花样,把它们改造为束腰衬衫和连身裙。比利时设计师克里斯蒂安·威南茨(Christian Wijnants)把一件衬衫样式的上衣和短裙拼接在一起,打造了一件宽松感的裙子。它穿起来简便,也方便搭配。Theyskens Theory的设计师奥利维耶·泰伊肯斯(Olivier Theyskens)设计了礼服衬衫式样的女衬衫、束腰衬衫和连身裙,其中裙子仿佛带有阿米什风格。

我最喜欢的设计来自迪奥(Dior)的拉夫·西蒙斯(Raf Simons)。西蒙斯不惧以新方式运用传统技艺,所以他把男士衬衫改造为了裙子(采用的是那种最淡的薰衣草色而非白色),把袖子卷到肘部,着重突出了衣领的设计。身体一侧的几处褶皱收紧了腰身。在另一款造型中,后背变为了前襟,下摆有一道无扣的开叉,颈部的裸露设计一直延伸至背部。

这些衬衫的吸引力在于阳刚与娇柔之间的性别转换。它们是性感的服装,但又不会过于明显,因为它们很宽松可以遮住身体。

设计师里克·欧文斯(Rick Owens)说:“白色棉衬衫的利落清新感觉增添了一份适度的正式感。”欧文斯将他超然的极简风格运用到了棉质束腰衬衫和连身裙上。

他还不无戏谑地指出,一件洁白亮丽的白衬衫会让周围白色的东西显得黯淡。他说:“你得注意了,要穿这种衬衫,你要有一口洁白的牙齿。”

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