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日内瓦钟表展奢华名表品鉴

更新时间:2014-1-28 14:54:39 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

Tomorrow's Timepieces: A Preview of SIHH
日内瓦钟表展奢华名表品鉴

IT'S HELPFUL TO brush up on your biology before you attend Geneva's annual luxury watch show, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), which starts on Monday. Timepiece professionals love to talk about their brand's DNA, a quadruple helix of heritage, materials, craftsmanship and design.

Brands go to great lengths to ensure distinction and a stunning appearance in a market where no one wants their watches to look like anyone else's. It takes years and millions of dollars to develop a luxury mechanical watch, and nobody comes to the show expecting to see brand-new timepieces from all 16 participating brands.

Still, there are several big debuts this year--including Cartier's first diving watch and Piaget's Altiplano, the new holder of the title 'thinnest watch in the world.'

Ralph Lauren's Grand Adventure

Most brands showing at SIHH have histories that span centuries. But even relatively young brands refer back, like Ralph Lauren, which entered the watch world only five years ago. The designer's love of exotic adventure serves as inspiration. This launch, RL67 Black Safari Flying Tourbillon, has a case of black steel, and a dial that's matte black with beige numerals and sword-shaped hands. The flying tourbillon rotates within a circular window at six o'clock. It's visually balanced by an outsize '12' placed over a circular engraving. The finishing touch is a ring of rare elm burl wood encircling the dial. Price upon request, Ralph Lauren, 877-639-7934

A. Lange & Söhne Makes Its Finest Finish Yet

German brand A. Lange & Söhne excels at finishing surfaces by polishing, engraving and tooling. Most such surfaces are external, but a luxury watch should have a superbly finished movement as well, which makes it more durable, reliable and, of course, beautiful. On the new Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase, the gold hands, numerals and buckle glow, while the silver dial gleams. The tiny steel screws that hold everything together aren't spared attention: A. Lange subjects them to intense heat, enhancing their resistance to corrosion and changing their color to a luscious blue. $48,200, A. Lange & Söhne, 49-3505-3440

Montblanc's Limited-Edition Marvel

On the new Collection Villeret 1858 ExoTourbillon Rattrapante chronograph, the upper third of the dial showcases the interplay between the rarely used four-minute tourbillon, the escapement and an unusually large balance wheel. The middle third of the dial features a centrally mounted minute hand, a second hand at 9 o'clock and rattrapante (split-second) chronograph hands that are capable of simultaneously timing two events. The lower third of the dial displays the hours of two time zones and a 24-hour day/night indicator. Montblanc will be producing only 18. $322,500, Montblanc, 212-223-8888

Piaget Breaks an Ultrathin Record

Piaget, a specialist in very thin watches, can now lay claim to making the world's thinnest mechanical watch with its new Altiplano 900P which measures 3.65mm (0.144 of an inch) wide. With mechanical watches, the movement--the combination of wheels, levers and gears that supplies power and controls the watch's functions--traditionally nestles inside the case, and the whirling parts are secured to plates for stability. The 900P melds the case and the movement: Components are set into the back of the white gold case, eliminating several millimeters of thickness. A similar configuration appeared in a quartz watch called Delirium in 1979. Piaget devoted three years of R&D to adapt the idea for a mechanical timepiece. $27,800, Piaget, 212-246-5555

Cartier Takes The Plunge

Behind Cartier's elegant facade is an appreciation for daring exploits. To wit: its Santos watch, made in 1904 for aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. This year, the brand introduces its first diving watch, an addition to the masculine Calibre de Cartier collection. Out of the water, the dial has standard Calibre traits: Roman numerals arching around the upper half, a curved calendar window and sword-shaped hands. In the water, the dial turns utilitarian. The calendar and most of the numerals disappear while the hands, dive time indicators and the bezel's triangular marker all glow. $8,200, Cartier, 800-227-8437

Concept and Commerce at Audemars Piguet

Unlike auto shows, which feature models of out-there cars that may never come to market, watch shows rarely include concept pieces. But Audemars Piguet both makes--and sells--its fantasy designs. The Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon has a tourbillon at 9 o'clock, a compact second time-zone display at 3 o'clock and, at 6 o'clock, a hand that indicates whether the crown is in the winding, setting or neutral position. The crazy conceptual feature is a gleaming white hourglass-shaped ceramic bridge (a stabilizing structure on a mechanical movement). The crown, bezel and pusher for setting the second time-zone are also white ceramic, a sharp contrast with the titanium case. Price upon request, Audemars Piguet, 888-214-6858

在参加日内瓦一年一度的奢华名表展之前重温一下你的生物课是有帮助的。1月20日,日内瓦国际高级钟表展(Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie)拉开了帷幕。钟表专家们热衷于谈论他们自有品牌的个性基因、四螺旋的传承、材质、工艺与设计。

没有人希望自家的钟表看起来与别家的相似,在这样一个市场上,诸多品牌都竭尽全力以确保产品与众不同、使其能够惊艳亮相。研发一款奢华机械表需要耗费数年的时间还有数以百万美元计的资金,前来观展的人没有谁会指望能看到参展的全部16家品牌都能推出令人耳目一新的全新款式。

但今年仍有一些初次亮相的大牌钟表──包括卡地亚(Cartier)的首款潜水腕表和刚摘得“全世界最纤薄腕表”美誉的伯爵(Piaget)Altiplano表。

拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)的大冒险

在日内瓦国际高级钟表展上展出的大多数品牌都拥有几百年的历史。但即使是相对年轻的品牌也很值得一提,比如说拉夫·劳伦,该品牌在五年前才涉足钟表业。品牌设计师将自己对奇异冒险的热爱化为设计灵感。这款RL67黑色Safari飞行陀飞轮表(RL67 Black Safari Flying Tourbillon)有着黑钢表壳,搭配米黄色数字及剑形指针的磨砂黑表盘。其飞行陀飞轮在六点钟位置的圆形显示窗内旋转。一个圆形的雕刻底纹背景上方配有特大号的数字“12”以保持视觉上的平衡。这款腕表的画龙点睛之笔在于在其外侧表盘一圈采用了罕见的榆木树节木板装饰。询价请致电拉夫·劳伦877-639-7934。

朗格(A. Lange & Sohne) 历来最瞩目的手表

德国钟表品牌朗格以抛光打磨、雕刻及工具作业的方式打造表面见长。这样的表面大都只是外观,而一款奢华名表还应具有超级精巧的机械装置,这会使其更加经久耐用,更加可靠,当然也更漂亮。在全新Grand Lange 1月相腕表上,金色的指针、数字和表扣光彩夺目,银色表盘与之交相辉映。就连将这些部件凝聚在一起的钢质小螺丝都分外引人注目:朗格让它们经历了极度高温的考验,增强了它们的抗蚀能力,并将其颜色换成了一种迷人的蓝色。这款表售价48,200美元(约合人民币29万元),联系朗格请致电49-3505-3440。

万宝龙(Montblanc)限量版奇作

在全新的维莱尔1858系列外置框架陀飞轮追针计时腕表(Collection Villeret 1858 ExoTourbillon Rattrapante)上,表盘上方三分之一的位置展现了很少使用的四分钟陀飞轮、擒纵机构与大得不同寻常的摆轮三者之间的相互作用。表盘中部三分之一的部位则配以一根中置式分针,一根位于九点钟方向的秒针及追针(双追针)计时指针,后者能够同时记录下两组时间数字。而在表盘下方三分之一的位置则展现了两个时区的时间以及一个24小时的日/夜显示器。这款表万宝龙仅将限量生产18块,其售价为322,500美元(约合人民币195万元),联系万宝龙请致电212-223-8888。

伯爵打破超薄腕表记录

纤薄钟表界的专家伯爵现在可以宣称打造出了世界上最薄的机械表,其全新的Altiplano 900P厚度为3.65毫米。对于机械表而言,机械装置──即控制手表的功能、为其提供动力的轮组、杠杆与齿轮的组合──传统上是置于表壳内部的,而旋转的部件则固定于主夹板上以保持稳定。Altiplano 900P则将表壳部件与机械装置化为一个整体:部件被置于白金表壳后底盖中,这就将该表的厚度又减少了几毫米。与之类似的结构曾于1979年出现在一款名为Delirium的石英表身上。伯爵耗费了三年的时间进行研发,就是为了将这一理念应用在机械表上。这款表售价27,800美元(约合人民币16.8万元),联系伯爵请致电212-246-5555。

卡地亚放手一搏

在卡地亚优雅的外观背后是对大胆壮举的推崇。比如说:卡地亚的山度士(Santos)手表是在1904年为航空先驱人士阿尔伯特·山度士-杜蒙(Alberto Santos-Dumont)打造的。而在今年,该品牌推出了其首款潜水表,它是彰显阳刚之气的卡地亚卡历博(Calibre de Cartier)系列的新成员。在水面之外,该表盘具有标准的卡历博特征:分布在上半部的拱形罗马数字时标、圆形的日历显示窗及剑形指针。入水后,表盘会变得非常实用。日历和大多数数字时标会消失不见,但指针、潜水时间指示器及表圈上的三角形标志都会发光显现出来。这款手表售价8,200美元(约合人民币4.96万元),联系卡地亚请致电800-227-8437。

爱彼(Audemars Piguet)的概念与生意

那些前卫的汽车功能模型可能永远都无法进入市场,但与车展不同,钟表展很少展出概念款。但爱彼却既打造──又售卖──其极富想象力的设计款式。这款皇家橡树概念GMT陀飞轮腕表(Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon)在它的九点钟方位有一个陀飞轮,在三点钟方位有一个简洁紧凑的第二时区显示器,在六点钟位置的指针则显示了表冠是处于上链状态、时间调校状态还是正常状态。其疯狂的概念体现在闪闪发亮的白色陶瓷沙漏形桥板上(机械装置上的一种稳固结构)。表冠、表圈以及设定第二时区用的按钮也都为白色陶瓷,这与钛金属表壳形成了鲜明对比。询价请致电爱彼888-214-6858。

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