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可供男士选择的高档T恤衫

更新时间:2014-1-21 13:54:49 来源:华尔街日报中文网 作者:佚名

The Benefits of a Better Men's T-Shirt
可供男士选择的高档T恤衫

'I wear a T-shirt and jeans every single day,' said Erik Schnakenberg, 30, co-founder of the Venice, Calif.-based brand Buck Mason. 'It's definitely my uniform.'

Difficulty finding a great-fitting, well-priced T-shirt was one reason that Mr. Schnakenberg, who has a background in fashion retail, and his friend Sasha Koehn, 32, an ex-techie, decided to launch their line of affordable but style-conscious basics last year. 'T-shirts have become a fundamental piece of the workday wardrobe in Los Angeles,' said Mr. Koehn. 'We wanted something that could be worn through the day into evening.' The brand's $24 classic crew-neck, cut from North Carolina cotton and sewn in L.A., is finished with a hem that's slightly rounded like a shirttail and gives it a dressier look.

Interactive art director Clay Weishaar, 33, discovered Buck Mason on Venice's Abbot Kinney Boulevard, where the label opened a shop last October. So far, he's bought about 10 tees, which he wears with jeans by Acne and Rogue Territory. 'I wanted to simplify my wardrobe,' said Mr. Weishaar. 'A slightly unique T-shirt looks good in my profession. A Hanes tee might not.'

There is no denying that men have more interesting clothing options today than they did 10 or 15 years ago, but the dressy stuff gets most of the attention: bespoke suits, lace-up shoes, perfectly tailored button downs. But as guys upgrade the clothes hanging in their closets, shouldn't they refresh the basics in their drawers, too?

U.S. stores sold $5.4 billion worth of men's T-shirts in 2013, according to market research firm NPD, but that comes out to less than $11 a tee. The challenge for labels such as Buck Mason is to convince guys that replacing crew-necks that have seen better days for nice-fitting, nice-feeling tees is worth the investment. When men become believers, they tend to buy in bulk.

Once a guy has felt a good T-shirt against his skin, it's an easy conversion, said New York-based designer Adam Lippes, 41, a self-professed T-shirt nerd. 'When I was 23 and got a job at Oscar de la Renta, everyone there wore suits,' he said. 'I was the first person at the company to wear jeans and a T-shirt. So, I was always on the lookout for that perfect white tee.' Mr. Lippes, unhappy with the logoed designer options available at the time, began making T-shirts nearly a decade ago as a side project. He broke out on his own in 2004 and eventually expanded beyond T-shirts into full men's and women's fashion collections. After a brief hiatus from the fashion world starting in late 2011, the designer relaunched his women's line in early 2013. Last summer, he reintroduced his tees.

When working on his original tees, Mr. Lippes altered the fit dozens of times before choosing the final design, and he hasn't changed it since. 'The most important thing is that the shoulder fits,' he said of what distinguishes his T-shirt from your standard three-pack. 'And look at the length -- is it too long or too short?'

While Buck Mason's styles are described by Mr. Koehn as 'slim and relaxed,' Mr. Lippes's T-shirts have narrower shoulders and fit snugly enough to be layered or to show off the result of hours spent in the gym.

New York-based brand Handvaerk lands somewhere in the middle on the fit spectrum, and its neck hems are thinner than average. 'It's a tailored fit for someone who takes care of himself,' said Handvaerk's Esteban Saba, 41, a former investment banker who launched the label with his designer wife, Petra Brichnacova, 36, last October.

Peruvian-born Mr. Saba has near-century-old family ties to his native country's textile and apparel industries. The couple use some of his family's own factories to produce Handvaerk. Their cotton, said Mr. Saba, has a yarn count two to three times higher than that in the average T-shirt. He compared it to high-thread-count sheets.

There are a few things that luxury-T-shirt neophytes should keep in mind. First, white tees, even well-made ones, need to be replenished more often than you think. Watch for signs of yellowing. 'It's not a forever item,' said Mr. Lippes. Next, shop around until you find the label that's right for you. There are many criteria to consider when searching for the perfect T-shirt -- from neckline to cotton weight to length.

Lastly, Mr. Saba recommends a varied T-shirt wardrobe. 'Guys love crew necks but you should also have a mix of v-necks,' he said. 'And the simple white henley is a very cool look that should be in every guy's closet.'

“我每天都穿T恤衫和牛仔裤,”总部位于加利福尼亚州威尼斯(Venice, Calif.)的Buck Mason品牌共同创始人埃里克·施纳肯贝格(Erik Schnakenberg)说,“这绝对是我的制服。”

去年,拥有时装零售背景的施纳肯贝格和他32岁的朋友、技术员出身的萨沙·克恩(Sasha Koehn)决定推出他们自己的价格实惠、样式考究的基本款T恤,其原因就是他们很难找到穿上极其合身、价格称心的T恤。“T恤在洛杉矶已经成了基本的工作日着装,”克恩说,“我们想要的是可以从早穿到晚的东西。” Buck Mason品牌售价24美元(约合人民币145元)的经典水手领T恤(用北卡罗来纳棉布裁制并在洛杉矶进行加工)像衬衣下摆一样进行了略呈圆角的镶边处理,看上去更加时髦考究。

33岁的互动美术指导克莱·魏斯哈尔(Clay Weishaar)是在威尼斯的阿博特·金尼大道(Abbot Kinney Boulevard)上发现Buck Mason T恤的,该品牌去年十月在那儿开了一家门店。到目前为止,他已经买了大约十件T恤,穿的时候搭配艾克妮(Acne)和Rogue Territory品牌的牛仔裤。“我想精简一下我衣柜里的服装,”魏斯哈特说,“样式略显独特的T恤很适合我的职业,恒适(Hanes)T恤穿着可能没那么好。”

不可否认,男士今天的服装款式选择余地比10或15年前多很多,但最吸引人的还是样式考究的服装:定制西服、系带鞋子、裁剪精美的系扣领衬衫。但男人们在更新他们挂在衣柜里的服装的时候,难道不应该也换一换他们抽屉里的基本类服装吗?

根据市场调查公司NPD的数据,美国商店2013年男式T恤的销售额为54亿美元(约合人民币326亿元),但是算下来一件T恤的价格还不到11美元(约合人民币67元)。Buck Mason等品牌面临的挑战是要说服人们花钱把曾经盛极一时 的水手领T恤换成合身、舒适的T恤衫是值得的。当男士们相信这种说法之后,他们往往会频频出手购买。

家住纽约、自称T恤迷的41岁的设计师亚当·利佩斯(Adam Lippes)说,一旦一个人用肌肤切身体会了穿一件好T恤的感觉,转变观念就是很容易的事了。“我23岁在奥斯卡德拉伦塔(Oscar de la Renta)公司谋得一职时,那里的每一个人都穿西服,”他说,“我是公司里第一个穿牛仔裤和T恤衫的人。因此,我老是在留心寻找那件完美的白色T恤。”由于对那个时候可以选择的设计师品牌不甚满意,利佩斯大约在十年前开始制作T恤,将其作为自己的一项业余工作。他在2004年自己单飞创业,最终把业务从T恤扩展到男士和女士时装 系列。在从2011年底开始短暂脱离时装界之后,这位设计师于2013年初再次发布了他的女士时装产品系列。去年夏天,他也重新推出了他的T恤作品。

在进行T恤的最初设计时,利佩斯在决定最终设计方案之前数十次改变了紧身度,自那以后他再也没有做任何改动。“最重要的是肩膀必须合身,”他说的是他的T恤与常规的三拼接T恤的区别。“看看这长度──是太长了还是太短了?”

尽管克恩描述Buck Mason的风格是“修身与休闲”,但利佩斯的T恤肩部更窄,贴合的紧密度足以显出层次,或者说足以让人炫耀一下在健身房度过几个小时后产生的成果。

总部位于纽约的品牌Handvaerk在紧身度上处于中间程度,其领口比一般的T恤要瘦小一点。Handvaerk 公司41岁的埃斯特万·萨巴(Esteban Saba)说:“这是为那些懂得照顾自己的人量身定做的。”曾经做过投资银行家的萨巴去年十月和他36岁的设计师妻子彼得拉·布日赫纳乔娃(Petra Brichnacova)一道创立了这个牌子。

秘鲁出生的萨巴所在的家族与他祖国的纺织和服装业有近百年的渊源关系。这对夫妇利用自己家族的一些工厂生产Handvaerk品牌服装。萨巴说,他们的棉布比普通T恤的纱线支数高两到三倍。他拿其与超密纺织的床单进行了对比。

新入手购买高档T恤的人应该牢记几件事。首先,白色T恤即使做工精致,需要更新换代的频率也比你想象的要高,要留意颜色开始泛黄的迹象。利佩斯说:“它不是可以穿一辈子的东西。”其次,要货比三家,直到你找到适合自己的品牌。寻找一件完美的T恤要考虑很多条件──从领口到棉布重量,到长度。

最后,萨巴建议衣柜里的T恤要款式多样。“男人喜欢水手领T恤,但你也应该加入一些V型领T恤,”他说,“纯白色的亨利衫(henley)穿着样子很酷,每个男人的衣柜里都应该备有一些才是。”

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