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匡威开始维权,起诉了31家公司

更新时间:2014-10-27 13:06:51 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Converse Sues to Protect Its Chuck Taylor All Stars
匡威开始维权,起诉了31家公司

First came the athletes, then the greasers. Then came the nonconformists, the teenagers and finally the baby boomers. The shoe manufacturer Converse has sold its brand of cool and whiff of rebellion to generations of Americans.

先是运动员,然后是油脂小子(greaser,起源于20世纪50年代的一个青少年亚文化群,因用发蜡等油脂把头发向后梳而得名。喜欢摇滚乐,骑摩托车,穿黑色皮衣——译注)。再然后是不墨守成规的人和青少年,最后是婴儿潮一代。制鞋商匡威(Converse)把自己酷酷的、带点叛逆的鞋子卖给了一代又一代美国人。

Now Converse, the century-old American footwear maker, says some of the core elements of its widely recognizable Chuck Taylor sneakers — black stripes and a rubber toe topper — are being co-opted by Walmart, Kmart, Skechers and others. And it is taking them to court, accusing 31 companies of trademark infringement in 22 separate lawsuits filed Tuesday in United States District Court in Brooklyn.

如今,这个美国百年制鞋商称自己知名度很高的查克·泰勒(Chuck Taylor)帆布鞋的一些核心元素——黑色条纹,橡胶鞋头——被沃尔玛(Walmart)、凯马特(Kmart)和斯凯捷(Skechers)等公司效仿。周二,匡威公司在布鲁克林美国地区法院起诉31家公司商标侵权,共包括22个独立诉讼。

But while Converse, which has been owned by Nike since 2003, is suing for monetary damages, its main priority is getting impostors off the shelves. To that end, the company is pursuing a separate complaint with the International Trade Commission, which has the power to stop any shoes considered to be counterfeit from entering the country.

虽然匡威公司——2003年它被耐克公司(Nike)收购——提出了赔偿要求,但主要目的是为了让仿制品下架。为此,该公司向美国国际贸易委员会(International Trade Commission)单独提出控诉。该委员会有权阻止任何被认为是仿冒品的鞋子进入美国。

“The goal really is to stop this action,” said Jim Calhoun, the Converse chief executive. “I think we’re quite fortunate here to be in the possession of what we would consider to be an American icon.”

“我们的目的真的是阻止这种行为,”匡威的首席执行官吉姆·卡尔霍恩(Jim Calhoun)说,“我认为我们非常幸运,我们拥有的在我们看来是美国的一个标志。”

Walmart, Kmart and Skechers did not respond on Tuesday to requests for comment.

周二,沃尔玛、凯马特和斯凯捷公司没有对评论请求作出回应。

With its rubber-toe front and recognizable star, Converse started America’s brand-name athletic footwear business long before the field became crowded with Nikes, Reeboks and Adidas. Converse introduced its first sneaker created for basketball players, the All Star, in 1917. Its most popular spokesman, Chuck Taylor, was himself a famous basketball player, and he joined the company in the early 1920s. The style was named after him, and generations of American teenagers have known the shoes as Chucks.

在运动鞋市场挤满耐克、锐步(Reeboks)和阿迪达斯(Adidas)之前,匡威用橡胶鞋头和易于识别的星星开启了美国的名牌运动鞋产业。1917年,匡威推出了自己的第一款为篮球运动员设计的帆布鞋——全明星(All Star)。它最受欢迎的代言人查克·泰勒本人就是著名的篮球运动员,在20世纪20年代早期加入该公司。那种款式以他命名,好几代美国青少年都把那种鞋称为查克鞋。

The shoes experienced their heyday in the 1950s and ’60s, with the whirlwind of changes in tastes and fashions and offered a counterpoint to saddle shoes and wingtips as everyday wear.

随着品味和时尚的快速变化,查克鞋在20世纪五六十年代达到巅峰,成为与马鞍鞋和翼尖正装男鞋相对应的日常便鞋。

“You had the greasers versus the bobby-soxers,” said Ellen Goldstein, a professor of accessory design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. “And then in the ’60s you had the hippie generation and the nonconformists.”

“当时有油脂小子和短袜少女(bobby-soxer),”纽约时装技术学院(Fashion Institute of Technology)的配饰设计教授艾伦·戈德斯坦(Ellen Goldstein)说,“然后在60年代,有嬉皮士和不墨守成规的人。”

For years, Converse has been well-represented by the cool kids of the big screen. John Travolta’s gang of leather-wearing T-Birds in “Grease” had Chucks on as they strutted around Rydell High. The “Italian Stallion” Rocky Balboa, played by Sylvester Stallone, wore them to train as a boxer for “Rocky.”

多年来,大银幕上的酷小子都爱穿匡威。在《油脂小子》(Grease)中,约翰·特拉沃尔塔(John Travolta)的帮伙“T-Birds”在吕德尔高中(Rydell High)招摇过市时,身穿皮衣,脚踏查克鞋。在《洛奇》(Rocky)中,西尔维斯特·史泰龙(Sylvester Stallone)扮演的“意大利种马”洛奇·巴尔沃亚(Rocky Balboa)穿着查克鞋练拳击。

“Every big star some time or somewhere has worn them in a movie because a lot of times they’re used to evoke an era,” said Hal Peterson, the author of “Chucks! The Phenomenon of Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars” (Skyhorse Publishing, 2007). “That shoe is what’s used when they want to put you back in that particular era, but pretty much in every era people have been wearing them.”

“每个大明星在电影中的某个时候或某个地方都穿过查克鞋,因为很多时候,它被用来代表一个年代,”哈尔·彼得森(Hal Peterson)说。他曾出版《查克鞋!匡威查克·泰勒全明星鞋现象》(Chucks! The Phenomenon of Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars,天马出版社[Skyhorse Publishing],2007年)。“他们用那款鞋把你带回某个时代,但实际上差不多每个时代人们都穿它。”

But Converse’s enviable perch in pop culture’s kingdom has not been consistent. The company floundered before filing for bankruptcy in the 1990s, and experienced a brand rebirth only when Nike gave the All Star a new push after buying Converse in 2003.

但是匡威没能一直保持在流行文化国度令人艳羡的崇高地位。后来该公司陷入困境,在20世纪90年代申请破产,2003年耐克收购匡威之后给全明星鞋带来新的动力,匡威才重获新生。

Nike reinvigorated the brand by expanding the franchise, introducing more colors and styles, and helping to push All Stars into overseas markets.

耐克重振匡威的方法包括扩大特许经销区,推出更多颜色和款式,帮助将全明星鞋推向海外市场。

“Reintroducing those same classic shapes that they had from the ’50s and ’60s really catered to the baby boomers who used to wear them,” Ms. Goldstein said. “So there’s very much a return, and there’s also a rebirth in the younger generation who are looking at the shoe and saying, Wow, it’s a really classic shape.”

“重新推出五六十年代的经典款式真的迎合了曾穿过它们的婴儿潮一代的口味,”戈德斯坦说,“所以它在很大程度上是一种回归,但它在年轻一代中也出现了复兴,他们看着这个鞋子,哇唔,它真的是经典款。”

Converse had about $205 million in sales when Nike came in to rescue it. In its 2014 fiscal year, Converse made up a small albeit important part of Nike’s business, reporting about $1.7 billion of Nike’s roughly $28 billion in sales. Converse estimates it has sold about a billion shoes worldwide with its Chuck Taylor trademark features.

耐克来拯救匡威时,后者的年销售额约为2.05亿美元。在2014财政年度,匡威成为耐克虽然不大却非常重要的一部分,销售额约为17亿美元,耐克的总销售额为280亿美元。匡威估计它在全球售出了约10亿双带有查克·泰勒商标的鞋子。

“From a revenue standpoint, it is one of their most profitable businesses,” said Jim Duffy, a sports and lifestyle brands analyst for Stifel Nicolaus. Mr. Duffy also added that Converse’s profits benefit from having so many variations of a single type of shoe.

“从收益角度讲,它是他们最赚钱的一部分,”施蒂费尔·尼古劳斯公司(Stifel Nicolaus)的运动和生活方式品牌分析师吉姆·达菲(Jim Duffy)说。达菲补充说,匡威的利润得益于它的同一版鞋有很多变化。

“The general rule of thumb in footwear, the more volume you do over a single footbed, the better the margin,” he said.

“鞋的总体经验法则是用同一款鞋底衍生出的款式越多,利润空间越大,”他说。

Nike has also helped Converse increase its sales overseas, using its robust distribution contracts to help funnel Converse sneakers into foreign stores.

耐克凭借强大的销售协议,帮助匡威帆布鞋走进外国商店,增加了匡威在海外的销售。

But that increase in popularity has also contributed to what Mr. Calhoun says is an “explosion in knockoff activity.” The complaint with the trade commission includes four companies based in China, and Mr. Calhoun says that cease-and-desist letters are no longer enough to keep look-alikes at bay.

但是,匡威流行程度的上升也导致了卡尔霍恩所说的“仿制行为的剧增”。该公司向美国国际贸易委员会提出的控诉对象包括中国的四家公司,卡尔霍恩说停止侵权函不再足以让仿制品陷入绝境。

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