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36小时玩转音乐之城纳什维尔

更新时间:2014-9-27 13:40:00 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Nashville
36小时玩转音乐之城纳什维尔

Country music is alive and well in Nashville; you might even see a young family in broad daylight practicing their line dancing on the sidewalk outside a bar downtown — all in cowboy boots, including the toddler who just learned to walk. But these days, there’s much more to the Tennessee capital than country. One of seven cities chosen to begin Google for Entrepreneurs Tech Hub Network, Nashville is bustling with new business. The dynamic food scene draws an international clientele and chefs from bigger cities. There’s money to preserve historic buildings and revitalize neighborhoods, like Germantown, which was established by European immigrants in the 1850s. Add a farmers’ market, some enticing shops and a batch of very stylish hotel rooms, and it’s hard not to conclude that the city is changing its tune — or at least adding a few new riffs.

在纳什维尔,乡村音乐依然长盛不衰,你甚至可以在繁华的街头某个酒吧门外的人行道上,看到一个年轻的家庭大白天在演练排舞。他们个个都穿着牛仔靴,连刚学会走路的幼童也不例外。然而近几年来,田纳西州的首府纳什维尔并不仅仅意味着乡村音乐。纳什维尔是谷歌公司精选的企业家技术中枢网络七大城市之一,熙熙攘攘,洋溢着新兴商业的魅力。活力四射的美食风景线吸引了国际客户与许多名厨从更大的城市来到这里。该市投入大量资金保留了那些历史建筑,令其重新焕发社区的活力,比如欧洲移民在19世纪50年代建造的德国城,还新建了一座农贸市场、许多迷人的店铺和一批极为时尚的酒店房间,人们很难不承认,这座城市的基调正悄然改变,或者说,至少增添了若干新乐章。

Barista Parlor opened in May 2012 in a converted auto-repair garage.
咖啡师沙龙于2012年5月开张,由昔日的汽修厂车库改建而成。

FRIDAY

周五

1. Welcome Aboard | 4 p.m.

1. 欢迎参观|下午4点

The Music City Center, the new $598-million convention center with the curvy roof and guitar-shaped ballroom, gets all the attention as a totem of Nashville’s bright future, but Union Station is an anchor to the past. Built in 1900, and all but abandoned by 1979, the stately Gothic railway terminal was spared demolition by a group of Nashville investors. Today, limestone fireplaces, oak doors and panels, and a 65-foot vaulted ceiling marked by golden yellow stained glass distinguish the building, now a hotel, that sits on a hill, just south of the Capitol and a stone’s throw from the live music downtown. Both buildings are open to the public; for a free tour of the mammoth convention center, reserve online well in advance.

音乐城市中心是一座投资5.98亿美元新建的会议中心,有着曼妙的曲线屋顶和吉他造型的舞厅。作为纳什维尔灿烂未来的图腾,它得到了所有人的关注,而城市内的另一个地方——联合车站,却是通向过去的铁锚。它建造于20世纪,在1979年却差点被弃置。这座庄严的哥特式火车站能幸免于拆除,要归功于纳什维尔的一群投资人。而今,它石灰岩的壁炉、橡木门和嵌板以及镶嵌金色玻璃的65英尺高的穹顶天花板,勾勒出了这座建筑与众不同的模样,现在,它成了一座酒店,坐落在田纳西州议会大厦南面的山上,距离市中心的现场音乐表演只有一石之遥。两座建筑都向公众开放。若打算在巨大的会议中心免费游览,需要提前网上预约。

2. Grand Ole Evening | 6:30 p.m.

2. 华丽的怀旧之夜|傍晚6点半

The sexy, bourbon-centric bar on the ground floor of Husk — a luminary in the new constellation of ambitious restaurants and a sister to the original in Charleston, S.C. — is a good place to alight for a drink (cocktails start at $9) and snack to start the evening. If they’re on the menu, order the Rappahannock oysters, with green garlic butter, bottarga and preserved lemon ($14), which are served warm and will sate you through a show at the Ryman. The storied auditorium, built in 1892, before the advent of microphones, sells daytime tours, but to get the full effect of the exceptional acoustics, go at night, when a full range of musicians, as disparate as the local hero Vince Gill and the English misanthrope Morrissey, have taken the stage. (Ticket prices vary.)

性感的波旁王朝主题酒吧哈斯克(Husk)位于哈斯克饭店一层。该饭店是雄心勃勃的新餐厅群落中一座夺目的建筑,也是南卡罗莱纳州查尔斯顿酒店哈斯克饭店的姐妹店。在这个好地方适合喝杯酒(鸡尾酒9美元起),吃点零食,开始一个美好的夜晚。拿来菜单,点一份拉帕汉诺克牡蛎,配上绿色的蒜泥奶酪、腌金枪鱼卵和腌柠檬(14美元),上桌时依然热气腾腾,你可以一边大快朵颐,一边在莱曼礼堂看完整场表演。这座多层的礼堂建造于1892年,当时麦克风还没问世。虽然有白日游项目,但若想感受更绝妙的音效,最好乘夜游览。晚上有许多音乐家上台表演,风格各异,比如本地精英文斯·吉尔(Vince Gill)和英国的厌世家莫里西(Morrissey)。(不同的演出票价差异很大。)

3. Nashville on Hudson | 9 p.m.

3. 哈德逊河上的纳什维尔|晚上9点

Called Nashvegas for its glitzy glamour, the city could just as easily be called the sixth borough of New York. It is filled with Manhattan refugees, while lots of creative companies are setting up shop here as a cheaper, nicer alternative. And in the gentrifying Germantown section, there’s Rolf and Daughters, which might have been plucked from Dumbo and inserted into its century-old brick warehouse — except for the Southern charm: an unflappable bartender, a waitress with great food knowledge yet no pretense, and a kitchen that turns out what it calls “modern peasant food” but is, in fact, deft and sophisticated. Recent menu items include a starter of beets with cashew butter and aleppo pepper ($13) and a surprisingly light squid-ink pasta with shrimp and pancetta ($17).

纳什维尔因其璀璨的光华,被称为“纳什维加斯”(Nashvegas),也毫无悬念地号称纽约的第六个区。这里到处是曼哈顿流民,许多创意公司建起了店铺,成为廉价而优质的替代之选。在日渐高雅的德国城一带,有一家“罗尔夫和女儿们餐厅”(Rolf and Daughters)。它从纽约的东博街区抽身而来,扎根到今日这座有百年历史的砖石仓库里,却依然保留着南国的风韵:侍应生从容不迫,女招待对食品知识了如指掌,却又毫不矫情,厨房出品的是“现代农家菜”,事实上却娴熟而练达。最新的菜单中有道开胃菜是辅以腰果黄油和阿勒波辣椒的甜菜(13美元),还有令人惊讶的淡鱿鱼色意面,含虾和熏肉(17美元)。

4. Neon Lights | 11 p.m.

4. 灿烂霓虹|深夜11点

The honky-tonks on and around Broadway are classic, just as corny and twangy, loud and boozy as you’d hoped they’d be. Many charge no cover, but drinking is encouraged. You can do a little planning and check nowplayingnashville.com in advance, or you can just squeeze into Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge to see who’s standing and singing on the bar, or hit Robert’s Western World for some traditional country heartbreak or, darlin’, set right down anywhere in between. It’ll be all right.

百老汇附近的小酒馆十分经典,粗野,喧嚣,噪音回荡,醉意朦胧,正合你的期待。许多费用是不含在内的,但人们总会鼓励你多喝酒。可以稍作计划,提前在nowplayingnashville.com网上查阅信息,或者挤进“淑女的兰亭”(Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge)沙龙,看看站在舞台上唱歌的是谁,或者去“罗伯特的西部世界”(Robert’s Western World)赏鉴传统的乡村伤心恋歌,或者,亲爱的你可以在两者之间任何一个地方落脚。都挺好的。

SATURDAY

周六

5. Local Flavor | 10 a.m.

5. 本土风味|上午10点

Barista Parlor opened in May 2012 in a converted auto-repair garage behind a dusty old store called Rainbow Fashions in increasingly hip East Nashville. It is a highly stylized coffee house where they spin vinyl, decorate with Edison bulbs and old motorcycles, use blue bandannas as napkins and do not serve decaf. It’s a communal place — a kid with a “Franny and Zooey” paperback in the pocket of his low-slung jeans might take a stool by a willowy woman in a big sweater editing footage on her MacBook Air — that is serious about local ingredients. The sausage in a crumbly buttermilk biscuit is from Porter Road Butcher next door; the baristas’ canvas aprons with leather straps are from the workshop of the leather goods company Emil Erwin, across the river in Marathon Village; and the Olive and Sinclair chocolate in this morning’s scone? Stone ground in Nashville. (Breakfast for two, about $25.) With the Black Keys frontman Dan Auerbach, who lives and operates a recording studio in Music City, Barista Parlor has just opened a second place on Magazine Street in the Gulch neighborhood.

咖啡师沙龙(Barista Parlor)于2012年5月开张,由昔日的汽修厂车库改建而成。它位于日益新潮的东纳什维尔一座蒙尘的老店“彩虹时尚”(Rainbow Fashions)后面。这是一座相当有型的咖啡屋,店内播放着黑胶唱片,装饰着爱迪生灯泡和陈旧的摩托车,用蓝色班丹纳扎染手帕当餐巾,不供应脱因咖啡。该店堪称共有之地:一个穿着低腰牛仔裤的小孩坐在凳子上,口袋里塞着《弗兰妮与祖伊》(Franny and Zooey)平装书,身旁婀娜的女子穿着宽大的毛衣,正在苹果笔记本上剪辑影片。店家还格外注重精选本地材料,酥脆的脱脂乳饼干里的香肠来自隔壁的波特路肉铺(Porter Road Butcher);咖啡师的皮束带帆布围裙来自河对面马拉松村埃米尔厄尔文(Emil Erwin)皮革制品公司的车间;早餐司康饼中的橄榄与辛克莱巧克力呢?是纳什维尔的石磨作品(二人早餐大约25美元)。黑键乐队(Black Keys)的核心人物丹·奥尔巴克(Dan Auerbach)就安居于此,并在音乐城市中开了一家录音工作室,咖啡师沙龙最近也在高尔奇街区的杂志街新开了一家分店。

6. Food Trucks and Stuff | Noon

6. 美食与美食车|正午

Poke around the rapidly changing east side, and you’ll find a district reinventing itself. The Craftsman-style bungalows, circa 1920s, that make up sleepy little residential pockets vary from student flophouse to renovated dream house. Creative types mill around I Dream of Weenie, a hot-dog stand fashioned out of an old Volkswagen bus. All the imaginative dogs cost less than $4.75. In the Shoppes on Fatherland, there’s Moxie, a furniture store opened by a former set designer where you might find the perfect Lucite ice bucket, and Jones Fly Co., where a fly-fisherman hand ties his feathery designs on a raw wood workbench. Before dropping from shopping, repair for a nouveau comfort-food lunch at the Silly Goose (red chile couscous with grilled chicken is $9.50), or if the wait’s too long, head to Mas Tacos Por Favor, the groovy former food truck that’s serving fried avocado from a fixed address now. Tacos are $3; cash only.

在日新月异的城市东部信步走来,你会发现一个街区正在重塑自我。一排排工匠风格的平房或可追溯到20世纪20年代,构成了一片倦意朦胧的小型居住区,从廉价学生客栈到翻新梦工厂,用途各异。“我梦见了维尼”(I Dream of Weenie)是一家由旧大众巴士改建而成的热狗店,奇趣十足。所有奇幻的狗狗都不超过4.75美元。在店铺林立的祖国大街上有一家默克西家具店(Moxie),店主曾是布景师,你会在这里见到完美的树脂冰桶。还有琼斯弗莱公司(Jones Fly Co.),一名假蝇钓鱼人正将自己柔软的设计作品系在原木工作台上。购物结束之前,可先去呆头鹅(Silly Goose)餐厅吃一顿新式的美味午餐(红辣椒炒粗麦粉配烤鸡肉,9.50美元)。如果你不想等待太久,可以去风味玉米卷(Mas Tacos Por Favor)餐厅,这妙不可言的美食卡车上供应炸鳄梨,食材来自某个固定地点。墨西哥玉米卷3美元一个,只收现金。

7. A New Frontier | 3 p.m.

7. 新前沿|下午3点

In hilly Sevier Park, picnickers in fashion-sweats settle in for the afternoon, while stroller-pushing mothers amble shoulder to shoulder, and plaid-and-denim-clad men throw balls for their rescue dogs. Here’s a chance to walk among the locals who staked a claim to the 12 South neighborhood well before the current boom. A pioneer on 12th Avenue South, Imogene + Willie, opened in 2009 in an old gas station selling meticulously made jeans and has grown into a cool emporium with a branch in Portland, Ore. The avenue is now lined with independent businesses like Savant Vintage (packed to the gills with frocks, clutches, tumblers, and the like), Las Paletas unusually flavored ice pops ($2.50), Holly Williams’s nouveau general store White’s Mercantile, and Judith Bright, a jeweler that recently moved from Green Hills, where Ann Patchett opened Parnassus Books, drawing a crowd that’s equal parts Berkeley and Bridgehampton.

在崎岖的塞维尔公园(Sevier Park),身穿时尚运动服的游客选好了地点,开始准备下午的野餐,推着婴儿车的母亲在并肩漫步,身穿格子花呢与丹宁衣裤的男子带狗玩着抛接球游戏。这是在本地人群中穿行的好机会。很久之前本地还不繁荣的时候,他们就在南部12个街区安居乐业了。南12大道上的潮流先锋是“伊莫金和威利”(Imogene + Willie)牛仔店。2009年,它在一座昔日的加油站内开业,出售精制牛仔服,现在已经成长为一座炫酷的商场,在俄勒冈州波特兰市也开了分店。这条大街现在林立着不少独立的商铺,如莎凡特经典(Savant Vintage,塞满了女装、手抓包、高脚杯等物品)、口感绝佳的拉斯帕勒塔斯(Las Paletas)冰棍(2.50美元)及霍利·威廉姆斯(Holly Williams)开的“怀特家”(White’s Mercantile)纪念品店。最近珠宝商朱迪·布莱特(Judith Bright)也将店铺从绿山迁到此地,而作家安·帕切特(Ann Patchett)在那里开了帕纳塞斯山书店(Parnassus Books),吸引的顾客人数可与伯克利和布里奇汉普顿匹敌。

8. An All-Purpose Block | 7 p.m.

8. 全功能街区|晚上7点

In the Gulch, the 404 Kitchen has fewer than 60 seats in a retrofitted shipping container, but has made a big impression. One recent evening, the chef Matt Bolus chatted with Eric Close, who plays mayor Teddy Conrad on ABC-TV’s “Nashville,” while his kitchen wove Southern ingredients throughout the confident menu. (Dinner for two around $100, not including drinks.) With the restaurant; its sister hotel, a 10-room hideaway that opened in March; and the city’s temple of bluegrass, the Station Inn ($12 to $15 cover charge) next door, you’d never need to leave the block.

高尔奇一带的404餐厅(404 Kitchen)由集装箱翻新而成,餐位不到60个,却令人难忘。最近的一天晚上,该店的主厨马特·波拉斯(Matt Bolus)与ABC台的电视剧《音乐之乡纳什维尔》(Nashville)饰演泰迪·康拉德(Teddy Conrad)市长的演员埃里克·柯楼思(Eric Close)见面相谈甚欢。这家餐厅的菜单信心十足,南方食材贯穿始终。(二人餐大约100美元,不含酒水。)它的姊妹酒店3月份开张,有10个客房。隔壁是一座蓝色玻璃寺庙——“车站旅馆”(Station Inn;服务费12至15美元)。有了这几个店,你根本不用离开这个街区。

9. Into the Wee Hours | 11 p.m.

9. 夜色沉沉|深夜11点

Venture anyway for a nightcap at the Patterson House, if you fancy a little book-lined speakeasy with barmen in period costume who take their time with the ice balls and ginger syrup. Cocktails, about $12.

如果你喜欢摆满书本的简易酒吧,可以到帕特逊酒屋(Patterson House)喝一杯睡前酒。这里的侍应生穿着特定时代的服装,愿意用心调制冰激凌球与姜糖浆。鸡尾酒大约12美元。

SUNDAY

周日

10. That Old-Timey Music | 9:30 a.m.

10. 怀旧音乐|上午9点半

You don’t have to care a lick about the earliest days of the Grand Ole Opry to be enthralled with the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum ($22). Get an eight-ounce soy latte ($4.43) at the Bongo Java by the entrance of the splashy new Omni Hotel, stop into the Hatch Show Print gallery and the store where the old printing presses that made many iconic concert posters now live — all in the corridor that attaches the hotel to the museum as part of its ongoing integration into the Music City Center complex. Go early, before the crowds descend.

用不着去了解大奥普里(Grand Ole Opry)剧场的早期岁月,你也能在乡村音乐名人堂及博物馆(Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum,门票22美元)流连忘返。在崭新炫目的欧姆尼酒店(Omni Hotel)门口的手鼓咖啡馆(Bongo Java)喝一杯8盎司的豆浆拿铁(4.43美元),还可以踱进汉琦秀印刷(Hatch Show Print)画廊及商店。馆内那些古老的印刷机曾创造出许多标志性的演出海报,而今依然风行于世,都贴在走廊里,而这座走廊将欧姆尼酒店与博物馆连接起来,融入了日渐扩张的音乐城市中心建筑群。要去就早点儿去,以免游客太多。

11. Silence Your Cellphone | Noon

11. 手机调成静音|正午

Brunch at Marche Artisan Foods, which is just down the hill from the Turnip Truck organic market and the nicely stocked Woodland Wine Merchant, is easy and casual and languorous — spindly chairs, heavy curtains pulled back from the street-front windows, pastries under glass, natives in no hurry at all. (Expect to pay $30 for two.) Use of mobile devices is forbidden in the dining room.

去马凯工匠餐厅(Marche Artisan Foods)享用早午餐吧!它位于从郁金香卡车(Turnip Truck)有机食品市场和伍德兰酒铺(Woodland Wine Merchant)下山的路上,气氛轻松、闲适、慵懒。纤秀的座椅,罩在玻璃柜中的甜点,悠然自得的本地人,临街的窗户拉开了沉甸甸的窗帘(做好心理准备,二人餐30美元)。餐厅禁止使用移动设备。

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