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36小时玩转斯德哥尔摩

更新时间:2014-8-15 21:15:26 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Stockholm
36小时玩转斯德哥尔摩

If Stockholm residents seem particularly smug these days, it’s for good reason. The Swedish capital has long ranked among the loveliest in Europe, with an inner-city beauty characterized by stately architecture and graceful waterways. But openings in outlying neighborhoods — galleries in the north, boutiques in the south, a craft brewery in the suburbs, art in the archipelago — are expanding the limits of the city worth exploring. Add to that Stockholm’s exciting restaurant scene, born from the popular New Nordic food movement, and the hometown pride is perfectly understandable.

如果说近年来斯德哥尔摩人似乎过于洋洋自得,他们也有充分的理由。作为瑞典的首都,斯德哥尔摩长期以来都在欧洲最可爱城市排行榜上名列前茅。市内非常美,特别是宏伟庄严的建筑和优雅的水路。边远的社区又在纷纷扩展这座城市可资探索的边界:北部的美术馆、南部的精品店、城郊的手工啤酒厂及群岛上的艺术展。此外,斯德哥尔摩的餐饮风景线也激动人心,它们诞生于流行的新北欧美食运动,人们为此油然生出的家乡荣誉感,完全可以理解。

Views from the Swedish capital and its outlying neighborhoods.
一起来探索这座瑞典首都之城,和它饶有趣味的城郊社区吧。

Friday

周五

1. Sip and Shop | 3 p.m.

1. 喝咖啡,购物 | 下午3点

Cafes abound in Stockholm, but none are as interesting as Snickarbacken 7. In a former stable down a dead-end lane, the multifaceted cafe features an adjoining concept store and revolving exhibitions from area artists. Sip a fresh-pressed juice — the apple with ginger and mint is spicy yet refreshing — and then browse the spacious shop in the rear, where vintage Balenciaga blazers hang beside Swedish labels like Tuss (soft children’s T-shirts) and Stutterheim (supremely stylish raincoats). Among the ever-changing wares might be cute animal masks, antique Arne Jacobsen chairs or records from the independent Pet Sounds music shop.

斯德哥尔摩到处都是咖啡馆,但谁也没有Snickarbacken 7这样有趣。这座多层的咖啡馆坐落在一条死胡同里,由昔日的马厩改建而成,亮点是旁边的概念店和流转不休的本地艺术家作品展。喝一杯新鲜压榨的果汁吧,比如加了生姜与薄荷的苹果汁,口感辛辣而提神。然后走进后面宽敞的服装店内闲逛,经典的巴黎世家(Balenciaga)运动衣旁边挂着瑞典名牌服装,比如图斯(Tuss,柔软的儿童T恤)和斯塔特海姆(Stutterheim,极为有型的雨衣)。在这日新月异的时装王国里,有可爱的动物面罩、古意盎然的阿纳·雅克布森(Arne Jacobsen)椅子和来自独立音乐店萌宠之声(Pet Sounds)的唱片。

2. Gallery Hop | 4:30 p.m.

2. 游览画廊 | 下午4:30

With the sun still high in the sky, spend the afternoon hopping among art galleries northwest of the city center, an area rarely explored by visitors. Begin around the former industrial complex on Hudiksvallsgatan, where a cluster of cutting-edge galleries has taken root. The contemporary Christian Larsen gallery has recently shown new works from the hometown artist Charlotte Gyllenhammar; since opening in February, the nearby Elastic Gallery has featured a range of emerging artists. Then continue south to the new Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum, a five-level structure with a gleaming brass exterior and galleries that host thought-provoking temporary exhibitions, like a recent show of haunting photographs from Astrid Kruse Jensen (admission, 100 Swedish kronor, about $15.50 at 6.4 kronor to the dollar).

艳阳仍然高照,不妨去市中心西北部的画廊里转转吧。这个区域很少有游客。从哈迪克斯瓦司佳坦的老厂房开始吧,一片前卫的美术馆已经在这里扎根。当代主题的基督教拉森(Christian Larsen)美术馆最近展示了本地艺术家夏洛特·吉伦海默(Charlotte Gyllenhammar)的作品;附近的弹性画廊(Elastic Gallery)自从今年2月份开馆以来,已经举办了一系列新生代艺术家主题作品展。探寻的脚步继续向南,走进新开馆的斯文哈里斯艺术博物馆(Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum),这座五层建筑有着闪亮的黄铜外观,画廊里的当代艺术品都耐人寻味,比如最近举办的阿斯特丽德·克鲁斯·詹森(Astrid Kruse Jensen)摄影展(门票100瑞典克朗,约合15.50美元。1美元合6.4瑞典克朗)就令人久久难忘。

3. Ego Eating | 8 p.m.

3. 悠然自得的美餐 | 晚上8点

Last year, two of Stockholm’s top chefs, Daniel Rams and Tom Sjostedt, teamed up to open Lilla Ego, a small restaurant serving modern Swedish cuisine in residential Vasastan. The unusual name references a song by the popular Swedish rock band Kent, whose melancholy melodies fill the casual space. Daily specials are scribbled on paper and taped slapdash to the wall, but the artful plates are prepared with care. Recent offerings included fried rooster thigh with kohlrabi (235 kronor) and a spectacular reindeer steak with roasted hazelnuts and frozen butter (295 kronor).

去年,两位斯德哥尔摩顶级大厨丹尼尔·拉姆斯(Daniel Rams)和汤姆·索思德(Tom Sjostedt)携手建起了一家名为“有点自我”(Lilla Ego)的小餐厅,为瓦萨斯坦一带的居民供应现代瑞典菜肴。这个罕见的店名本是一首歌,原唱是瑞典深受欢迎的摇滚乐队肯特(Kent),这片轻松休闲的空间总是回荡着它忧伤的旋律。写在纸上的每日特餐草草贴在墙上,但充满艺术情怀的餐盘端上来时却是小心翼翼的。最近供应的菜肴包括炸鸡腿配甘蓝(235克朗)、壮观的驯鹿肉排搭配烤榛子和冻奶油(295克朗)。

4. North to South | 11 p.m.

4. 从北到南 | 夜晚11点

Sprinkled with laid-back bars and unpretentious clubs, Sodermalm is the inner-city island with the best night life. Start on the north end of the island at Vanster, a discreet speakeasy beside the restaurant Haktet. The shabby-chic bar serves cocktails like Rocco’s Valentine (bourbon, Campari, honey, lime and rosewater; 138 kronor), but only to those who can find their way inside. Hint: look for an unmarked brown door and ring the buzzer; knowing that the bar’s name means “left” also helps. Then continue to Skanstullsbron, the bridge over Sodermalm’s southern tip. At midnight, the party will just be getting underway at Tradgarden, an open-air summertime club under the bridge where you can play Ping-Pong, sip beers on wooden risers and dance til dawn.

市内岛屿南岛(Sodermalm)上有着城里最美好的夜生活,慵懒的酒吧与低调的夜店星罗棋布。从岛屿北端的左面酒吧(Vanster)开始吧,这个怀旧而别致的半地下酒吧位于Haktet餐厅旁边,供应鸡尾酒,比如洛珂的情人(Rocco’s Valentine,由波旁威士忌、金巴利苦酒、蜂蜜、莱姆酒和玫瑰水混合而成;138克朗),但首先,你要擦亮眼睛找到此地。提示:寻找一扇没有标志的棕色木门,按下门铃;如果你知道酒吧的名字意为“左面”,亦有帮助。下一站,继续向前走到南岛南端的斯堪斯达布朗桥。午夜时分,Tradgarden酒吧里的派对刚刚开始,它是桥下一家露天的夏夜俱乐部,你可以打乒乓球,在木制的高台上畅饮啤酒,或者跳舞跳到东方既白。

Saturday

周六

5. Archipelago Art | 10:30 a.m.

5.群岛上的艺术展 | 上午10:30

Most visitors never experience the bountiful nature that surrounds the city. But Artipelag, a new art hall amid 54 acres of fields and forests in the archipelago, is helping change that. Conceived by Bjorn Jakobson, the founder of BabyBjorn, this modern art complex opened in 2012 with genre-busting exhibitions in a gorgeous waterfront location that’s only a 20-minute bus ride from the city center. One scenic approach to the artworks follows a wooden footpath along the water’s edge, past mallards and moss-covered rocks. Inside the bright galleries, large picture windows frame the treetops outside, creating an apt milieu for the current exhibition of archipelago-inspired art, from fin-de-siècle paintings by Anders Zorn to contemporary depictions from Marcus Eek (through Sept. 28; 150 kronor).

多数游客从来不曾体验这座城市周边丰饶的自然之美。但是,群岛上54英亩的田野和森林之中新建的展艺厅Artipelag正在改变这一点。这座现代艺术建筑群由BabyBjorn公司的创建者伯恩·雅各布森(Bjorn Jakobson)构思设计,2012年开业,致力于举办各种流派的展览。它坐落于华美的水滨,距离市中心只有20分钟的公交车程。有一条风景如画的路通向这些艺术珍宝,沿着海边的木头步道一路走来,路边会遇见野鸭和青苔覆盖的岩石。明亮的画廊里展示着巨大的画作,窗外就是参天大树。恰如其分的自然环境呵护了当今以群岛为灵感的艺术佳作,包括安德斯·左恩(Anders Zorn)的“世纪末”绘画和马库斯·伊可(Marcus Eek)的当代画作(从9月28日开始;门票150克朗)。

6. Fika Fun | 1:30 p.m.

6. 菲尔卡的乐趣 | 下午1:30

Most of the restaurants worth eating at aren’t open for lunch on Saturdays. So instead embrace the tradition of fika, a sociable coffee break typically accompanied by something sweet to eat. This pillar of Swedish culture is best experienced at Johan & Nystrom, an eco-minded coffee shop on Sodermalm that has no shortage of nooks in which to enjoy a steaming mug of the daily brew. The baked goods are as carefully sourced as the fair-trade, single-origin beans: The fresh kardemummabullar (cardamom-flavored buns) are provided by Dessert & Choklad Stockholm, a local bakery that also supplied sweets for last year’s Nobel Prize banquet.

此地值得一去的餐馆在周六大都是下午才开门,所以请融入本地的菲尔卡风俗,即咖啡社交,一边聊天,一边喝咖啡吃甜点。这是瑞典文化的支柱,在约翰与耐斯特龙咖啡馆(Johan & Nystrom)能获得最好的体验。这座崇尚生态的咖啡馆位于南岛,店内最不缺少的就是清幽的角落,快躲在里面品尝一杯当天酿造的新鲜热咖啡吧。这家咖啡馆在采购咖啡豆时注重公平贸易和单一产地,在采购糕点时他们也是同样谨慎:新鲜的小豆蔻风味面包由本地的斯德哥尔摩甜点与巧克力面包屋(Dessert & Choklad Stockholm)供应,该面包屋曾为去年的诺贝尔颁奖宴会提供甜食。

7. SoFo Shopping | 3 p.m.

7. 在SoFo购物 | 下午3点

Much of central Stockholm looks like a Photoshopped postcard, but the trendy Sodermalm neighborhood south of Folkungagatan — branded SoFo — is a refreshing exception. Explore the unpolished area via its creative boutiques, tucked among vintage stores and independent cafes. Start at the bookshop Konst-ig, filled with indie magazines and rare design and art tomes. Then head to the year-old boutique Hipp! to shop for colorful jewelry and printed trays designed by its owner (and graphic designer), Julia Nielsen. Make your final stop Parlans Konfektyr, a candy shop with a jazz-era style as irresistible as the caramels, made in the adjacent kitchen, in flavors like sea salt, cardamom and licorice.

斯德哥尔摩市中心大部分都像PS过的明信片风景,但南岛上佛克恩大街以南的社区(即著名的SoFo)却是个令人耳目一新的例外。在这片粗朴的地方,去探寻路边一家家古董商店、独立咖啡厅及隐藏其间的创意精品店吧。从Konst-ig书店开始,店内摆满了独立电影流派的杂志和稀有的设计与艺术书卷。然后直奔有一年历史的精品店“新潮”(Hipp!),去买一些由店主(兼平面设计师)茱莉亚·尼尔森(Julia Nielsen)设计的五彩首饰和彩印盘子。最后一站是Parlans Konfektyr糖果屋,它爵士年代的风格像焦糖一样难以抗拒,美食由临近的厨房制作,口味有海盐、小豆蔻和甘草等。

8. Chicken Dinner | 7 p.m.

8.鸡肉美餐 | 傍晚7点

The chefs Jacob Holmstrom and Anton Bjuhr earned their first Michelin star last year for their elegant New Nordic restaurant, Gastrologik. But it’s next door at the casual annex Speceriet where locals regularly queue for a seat at one of three communal tables. A shared kitchen means that both restaurants embrace a seasonal cooking philosophy and scrupulously sourced local products, but Speceriet’s simpler preparations (and à la carte menus) mean prices are more budget-friendly. One outstanding mainstay is the rotisserie-grilled chicken — maybe the most succulent you’ll ever taste — served with a green salad, mayonnaise and lemon (165 kronor).

去年,优雅华丽的新北欧餐厅“美食主义”(Gastrologik)的大厨雅各布·霍姆斯壮(Jacob Holmstrom)和安童·布贾尔(Anton Bjuhr)赢得了他们第一颗米其林之星。然而它还有一家附属的Speceriet餐厅,风格轻松休闲,本地人常常在门外排队等座,希望在店内的三座公用餐桌前大快朵颐。两家餐厅共用同一间厨房,这意味着它们秉持相同的应季烹饪哲学和严格的本地农产品采购策略,但是Speceriet配置简单(可以照单点菜),价格也更友善。招牌菜是铁架烤鸡肉——它也许是您尝过的最美味多汁的鸡肉,与绿色的沙拉、蛋黄酱和柠檬一起为您奉上(165克朗)。

9. Complex Choices | 10 p.m.

9. 泡吧之夜 | 晚上10点

The islet of Gamla Stan is better known for quaint cobblestone streets than quality places to drink and eat. But that began to change last year when the two-Michelin-starred chef Bjorn Frantzén opened an interconnected complex with a decadent gastro pub (called the Flying Elk) and three tipple-specific bars on one block. Start the night at Corner Club, the stylish street-level cocktail bar serving concoctions like the Northern Navy (Swedish Herno gin, lime and grapefruit cordial; 129 kronor). Then sneak downstairs to Alg Hjartat, a semi-secret underground beer hall serving numerous Scandinavian craft beers and bar snacks such as oozy cheese-stuffed gougères drizzled with honey. End the night at Gaston, an intimate wine bar where the young sommeliers are as friendly as they are knowledgeable about the eclectic daily offerings.

老城区(Gamla Stan)小岛最为知名的是古色古香的卵石街道,其次才是优质的餐饮场所。但在去年,情况开始改变:米其林二星级大厨伯恩·弗兰泽恩(Bjorn Frantzén)建起了一片互相连通的餐饮社区,包括一家非常棒的餐吧(名为飞翔的麋鹿,Flying Elk)和三座酒吧。我们的畅饮之夜从角落俱乐部(Corner Club)开始,这座时尚的鸡尾酒吧位于临街一层,供应调和酒水,比如北欧海军(瑞典的赫诺杜松酒、莱姆酒和葡萄果甜酒;129克朗)。然后溜到楼下的Alg Hjartat酒吧,这是一座半秘密的地下啤酒吧,供应各种斯堪的纳维亚手工啤酒和酒吧零食,比如软烂的奶酪泡芙,表面涂有蜂蜜。让夜晚结束于加斯顿酒吧(Gaston),这是一座私密的红酒吧,年轻的调酒师友好而渊博,对不拘一格的每日供应都了如指掌。

Sunday

周日

10. Morning Market | 11 a.m.

10.早市 | 上午11点

The formerly rough neighborhood of Hornstull, on the western edge of Sodermalm, boasts new restaurants and cafes, a sparkling shopping complex, and two newly constructed plazas that anchor the revitalized area. The latest draw, which debuted in 2013, is Hornstulls Marknad, a weekly summertime market that stretches along a waterfront promenade. Stalls sell everything from vintage Acne boots to hand-embroidered tote bags, but don’t leave without also visiting the food vendors for picnic supplies — a fresh loaf of sourdough, tangy Vasterbotten cheese and some Swedish strawberries should do the trick.

往日粗陋的霍恩斯达尔(Hornstull)社区位于南岛西端,而今却有许多崭新的餐厅和咖啡厅、一座华丽的购物中心和两座新建的广场,为这片复兴之地奠定了地位。2013年最新的吸引力是霍恩斯达尔市场,即每周一次的夏季集市,沿着水滨的散步长廊徐徐展开。摊位上应有尽有,比如古典的阿克尼皮靴和手工刺绣的大手提袋。请不要急着离开,去野餐用品市场,买些新鲜的酵母、气味浓烈的瓦斯德波顿奶酪和瑞典草莓,应该足够一顿野餐了。

11. Picturesque Picnic | 12:30 p.m.

11. 风景如画的野餐 | 中午12:30

The central, two-mile-long island of Djurgarden has vast expanses of forests and verdant meadows where you’ll encounter a grazing bull before a speeding Volvo. To get there quickly, rent a bike from Sjocafeet (80 kronor per hour), and ride east along the gravel paths hugging the northern shore. Pedal until you find the perfect patch of grass, then break out the picnic.

市中心2英里长的德杰加登岛(Djurgarden)上有着辽阔的森林和青翠的草地,你邂逅了一头正在吃草的牛,又望见飞驰的沃尔沃汽车。为了更快到达这里,可以从斯加卡非特(Sjocafeet)租一辆自行车(每小时80克朗)。沿着北海岸边的碎石路一路向东骑行,看到一片完美的草地就停下来,开始野餐。

12. Pier to Beer | 3 p.m.

12. 从码头到啤酒 | 下午3点

From the Djurgarden pier, hop on the ferry bound for the suburb of Hammarby Sjostad (50 kronor). After a 20-minute ride with views of the receding city, alight at Lumabryggan, the dock right outside Nya Carnegiebryggeriet, a new microbrewery in an old factory, born from a partnership between Brooklyn Brewery and Carlsberg. In April, the brewery opened its much-anticipated restaurant and bar there. Find a seat on the sunny waterfront terrace and savor a glass of Lumen in Tenebris, a spicy saison available only at the brewery.

从德杰加登码头跳上驶向郊区哈默比斯加斯塔德(Hammarby Sjostad)的渡船(50克朗)。坐在船上看着城市的风景不断后退,大约20分钟后在卢玛布瑞嘉(Lumabryggan)码头弃舟登岸。旁边就是新建的小型啤酒厂尼亚卡尼吉布瑞格瑞特(Nya Carnegiebryggeriet),它位于旧厂区内,由布鲁克林酿酒厂和嘉士伯合作建造而成。4月,众人翘首以待的啤酒厂餐厅和酒吧开业了。在阳光明媚的水滨露台上找个座位,享受一杯特耐布利斯的鲁门(Lumen in Tenebris),这种辛辣的酒只有在这座啤酒厂才能尝到。

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