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20年后,重新探访柯特·科本的足迹

更新时间:2014-4-5 15:11:23 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Chasing Kurt Cobain in Washington State
20年后,重新探访柯特·科本的足迹

Kurt Cobain felt bored and old. Teenage angst had paid off well, as the line in the Nirvana song “Serve the Servants” put it, but the fame that came with being the frontman of the seminal grunge band that brought punk to the mainstream was taking a toll. Cobain was considered by many to be the voice of his generation, but he was also battling depression and addiction, diseases that led to his suicide at 27.

柯特·科本(Kurt Cobain)觉得自己疲惫而又苍老。正如“涅槃”(Nirvana)的歌《为奴仆服务》(Serve the Servants)中所唱,青春期的沮丧已经偿清,但是作为影响力巨大、把朋克带入主流的“垃圾摇滚”(grunge)乐队主唱,盛名令他付出巨大代价。许多人都认为科本代表了他那一代人的声音,但他也在与抑郁、毒瘾和疾病搏斗,这一切最终导致他在27岁那年自杀身亡。

I was a 21-year-old college student at the time, and one of my fellow D.J.’s at our college radio station, WXVU, at Villanova University, relayed the grim news. We took to the airwaves, playing our favorite Nirvana songs and mourning the loss with pony kegs of the best beer we could afford.

那年我还是个21岁的大学生,在维拉诺瓦大学读书,校园电台WXVU的一个DJ是我的朋友,他在节目里说出了这个可怕的消息。我们听着广播,播放我们最喜欢的“涅槃”歌曲,喝着我们能买得起的最好的小罐啤酒,哀悼这个损失。

In the 20 years since Cobain died, Nirvana’s music has stayed with me, flashing back at me in waves, poignant reminders of my own 20s.

在科本逝世20周年之际,“涅槃”的音乐仍然与我同在,一波又一波地在我脑海中闪回,20多岁时的岁月历历在目。

When I read that Cobain’s hometown Aberdeen was planning a day to honor him in February in advance of the 20-year-anniversary of his death on April 5, 1994, and that Nirvana was being inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in April, the reality that one of my favorite musicians has now been dead for two decades was unsettling. I had wanted to make a trip to Washington State to see where he came from, and what influenced him.

后来我看到科本的家乡阿伯丁市计划在他逝世(1994年4月5日)的20周年纪念日之前,把2月的某日用来纪念他;还有“涅槃”将在4月入驻摇滚名人堂的消息。想到自己最喜欢的音乐家居然已经死了20年,不禁令人心神不安。我想去华盛顿州做一次旅行,亲眼看一看他的家乡,还有影响了他的东西。

Because there are no organized Nirvana tours, I created my own, using “Heavier Than Heaven,” Charles Cross’s masterful Cobain biography, to create an itinerary that I hoped would give me a better understanding of Cobain and his music.

因为没有现成的“涅槃”旅行线路,所以我就自己规划了一条,借助查尔斯·克罗斯(Charles Cross)经典的科本传记《重逾天堂》(Heavier Than Heaven)来设计行程,希望这样能让我更好地去理解科本和他的音乐。

I started my Cobain trip at the Marco Polo, a no-frills motel on the gritty periphery of Seattle that Cobain frequented in his final days, when his heroin addiction controlled his life. According to the 2007 BBC documentary “The Last 48 Hours of Kurt Cobain,” Cobain used to duck out of his mansion in the exclusive Denny-Blaine neighborhood to meet one of his preferred heroin dealers along Aurora Avenue. He would then retreat to room 226 of the Marco Polo to shoot up.

我的科本之旅始于西雅图多砂的周边地带一座平价汽车旅馆“马可·波罗”(Marco Polo),科本生前的最后岁月常常来到这里,当时海洛因毒瘾已经完全控制了他的生活。根据2007年BBC的纪录片《柯特·科本的最后48小时》(The Last 48 Hours of Kurt Cobain),科本经常逃离他在丹尼-布莱尔高级住宅区的住处,到奥罗拉大街去见一个毒贩子,然后就溜到马可·波罗的226号房间去注射。

The reception area was closed when I arrived late on a Monday night in February, so I rang the doorbell. Moments later, a small sliding window opened, and a man named Jonathan popped his head out. He sized me up wordlessly, slid the window shut, and re-emerged moments later in the reception area, wearing an undershirt, a pair of boxer shorts and woolly socks.

2月的一个星期一晚上,我来到那家旅馆,前台是关着的,我按了门铃。过了片刻,一扇小滑窗打开了,一个名叫乔纳森的男人探出头来,无声地打量着我,把窗子关上,过了片刻又出现在前台,身上只穿着背心、平角短裤和羊毛袜。

“This place was the Wild West back when Kurt stayed here,” he said, checking me into Cobain’s favorite room as a TV blared from his living quarters behind the reception desk. “We had hookers throwing TVs out the windows here, drug dealers, junkies, you name it.”

“柯特在的时候,这地方就像狂野的西部,”他说着,给我登记了那个科本最喜欢的房间。前台桌子后面是他的生活区,一台电视在那里变换着画面。“那时候有妓女把电视从窗口扔下去,还有毒贩子、瘾君子,什么都有。”

Having worked there for many years, but not back then, he suggested that the neighborhood had improved since Cobain frequented the place, but my room was a grim time warp. There were hairs on the pillows, splotchy stains on the sheets that could have predated Nirvana, and scratchy bath towels.

他在这儿已经工作了好多年,但没赶上科本的年代。他说,比起科本常来的那些年,这里的环境已经改善了很多。但我的房间简直像个可怕的时光机:枕头上有头发,床单估计比“涅槃”还要古老,上面还有污渍,浴巾粗糙扎人。

Before buying the expansive home at 171 Lake Washington Boulevard where he was found dead, Cobain and his wife, Courtney Love, lived in a variety of high-end Seattle hotels, including the Inn at the Market, the Sorrento Hotel and the Four Seasons Olympic, now the Fairmont Olympic. The Fairmont and the other luxury hotels Cobain lived at don’t advertise the connection, but the arty Hotel Max embraces Seattle’s grunge connection with a “Sub Pop” floor devoted to the local indie record label that discovered Nirvana.

科本的尸体被发现于华盛顿湖大道171号,在买下这处昂贵的住宅之前,他与妻子柯妮·拉夫(Courtney Love)住在各种各样西雅图的高级酒店里,有“集市酒馆”、索伦托酒店和如今已更名为“费尔蒙特·奥林匹克”的奥林匹克四季酒店。费尔蒙特和科本住过的其他豪华酒店一样,并不用科本与它们之间的这段关系打广告,但是附庸风雅的马克西酒店却热衷与西雅图的“垃圾摇滚”潮流拉关系,它有一层被命名为“Sub Pop”——这是本地的独立唱片厂牌,“涅槃”就是它发掘的。

Cobain is often linked to Seattle, but he spent less than two years living in the city. He lived in more than a half-dozen homes, and slept in countless other places in Aberdeen and the neighboring towns of Montesano and Hoquiam, and wrote many of Nirvana’s best-known songs in Olympia before moving to Seattle in 1992. I started my Cobain homes tour in Montesano, a small town where members of the influential punk band the Melvins grew up.

科本的名字经常与西雅图联系在一起,但他人生最后两年才住在这座城市。在阿伯丁与附近的小镇蒙特萨诺和霍奎厄姆,他曾在六七个家庭居住,在不计其数的地方过夜。1992年搬到西雅图之前,他在奥林匹亚写下“涅槃”许多最为人熟知的歌曲。我从蒙特萨诺开始探访科本的许多个“家”,这是一座小镇,重要的朋克乐队“麦尔文斯”(Melvins)的成员们就是在这里长大。

Standing outside 413 Fleet Street South, the home that Cobain lived in with his father from late 1978 to March 1982, was a neighbor named John Bell, who told me that when Cobain’s mom used to visit him, he could hear them yelling at each other from across the street. Fleet Street was a step up for Cobain, but Mr. Bell said that the modest, century-old house with red vinyl siding and newspapers covering the windows seemed mostly empty.

弗利特南街413号是科本在1978年年底到1982年3月与父亲一起生活时住过的地方,邻居约翰·贝尔(John Bell)站在门外,告诉我科本的母亲曾经来这里看望科本,隔着一条街都能听到他们大喊大叫。弗利特街是科本起步的地方,那栋朴素的百年老宅有红色的乙烯护墙板,窗子上糊着报纸,贝尔说房子似乎基本是空的。

A few minutes outside Montesano, I drove into the Country Estates mobile home park, where Cobain lived with his paternal grandfather, Leland Cobain, after leaving Fleet Street. While parked next to a speed limit sign that warned, “Violators will be Prosecuted, Survivors will be Shot,” a man named Jerry who was out for a walk offered to introduce me to Gary Cobain, Leland’s son and Kurt’s uncle.

在蒙特萨诺镇外呆了几分钟,我开车来到乡村地产活动房屋停车场,离开弗利特街后,科本曾在这里和祖父勒兰德·科本(Leland Cobain)一起生活。我把车停在一个限速牌旁边,上面写着“违规就得吃官司,活下来也得挨枪子”,这时一个名叫杰里的男人出来散步,他答应带我去见加里·科本(Gary Cobain)——勒兰德的儿子,科本的叔叔。

“My dad greeted Nirvana fans from all over the world here,” said Gary Cobain, who moved into the mobile home after his father died last May. “It kept him busy.”

“我爸爸接待过从世界各地赶来的‘涅槃’歌迷,”加里·科本说,父亲于去年5月去世后,他就搬进了这栋活动房屋,“这让他一直保持忙碌。”

Shadowing the Chehalis River, I drove west along Olympic Highway to Aberdeen, an old logging city once called “the roughest town west of the Mississippi.”

我沿着奇黑利斯河一路向西,从奥林匹克高速路开往阿伯丁,这古老的伐木城市一度被称为“密西西比以西最粗犷的小镇”。

Before a tableau of billowing smokestacks there is a sign, erected by the Kurt Cobain Memorial Foundation in 2005, that reads: “Welcome to Aberdeen, Come As You Are,” a reference to one of Nirvana’s hit singles and now the unofficial motto of the city.

远方出现了一片烟囱构成的巨浪,面前是一个标志牌,是由柯特·科本纪念基金会于2005年建立的,上书“欢迎来到阿伯丁,保持本色”(Welcome to Aberdeen, Come As You Are)——这里引用了“涅槃”的金曲,如今已经成为这座城市的非正式箴言。

The mayor of Aberdeen, Bill Simpson, had offered to take me on a mini-Nirvana tour but the receptionist at city hall said he was helping to negotiate a standoff.

阿伯丁市长比尔·辛普森(Bill Simpson)曾提出带我做一次迷你“涅槃”之旅,但市政厅的接待员说,市长正在帮忙交涉一个僵局。

“There’s some crazy guy holed up in his attic who fired some shots out the window and was making threats,” she explained.

“有个疯子躲在自己的阁楼里,从窗子往外开枪,很危险,”她解释。

Before I could tell her not to bother the mayor, she had already spoken to him, and minutes later he bounded into the room. “Kurt went to Seattle and became famous, but he was from Aberdeen,” the mayor told me as we piled into his Chrysler minivan. “Seattle embraced him as one of their own, but then he killed himself, and suddenly he became an Aberdeen guy again. We’re happy to reclaim him.”

还没等我对她说不用麻烦市长了,她就已经给他打了电话,几分钟后,他就迈着轻快的步伐走进房间。“柯特在西雅图出了名,但他是阿伯丁人,”当我们挤进他那辆克莱斯勒小型厢车的时候,他说,“西雅图接受了他,把他当做自己人,但等他自杀以后,突然之间,他就又成了阿伯丁人。我们很高兴迎回他。”

We drove by 1210 East First Street to have a look at the home where Cobain lived for several years as a child in the city’s notorious “Felony Flats” neighborhood, which is rife with boarded-up homes. His mother, Wendy O’Connor, who now lives in California, placed the four-bedroom modest home, assessed at $67,000, up for sale in September at $500,000. Jaime Dunkle, a Nirvana fan in Portland, Ore., is raising money to turn the place into a museum, so it “doesn’t end up in the clutches of capitalist greed,” as she put it on her website.

我们经过东一街1210号,看一看科本童年时住过几年的地方,当时这里是阿伯丁臭名昭著的“重罪地带”,到处都是木板搭起来的房屋。这栋有四个卧室的简陋房屋估价为67000万美元,科本的母亲温迪·奥康纳(Wendy O’Connor)如今生活在加州,去年9月,她为房子标价50万美元挂牌出售。俄勒冈州波特兰市的“涅槃”歌迷杰米·丹克尔(Jaime Dunkle)正在筹款,想在这里建造一座博物馆,她在网站上说,希望它“不至最终落入资本主义贪欲之手”。

A real estate agent gave me a tour of the home, which is being marketed as a “once in a lifetime opportunity to own a piece of rock history.” It was like a stroll into a 1970s time warp. The vintage kitchen featured orange, black and gold carpeting, the hallway had wood shingles, and Cobain’s bedroom was just as he left it: with a hole punched in the wall and plenty of graffiti paying homage to bands he liked (Led Zeppelin, Iron Maiden) and perhaps his favorite beer, Olde English 800.

一位房地产经纪人带我仔细参观了这栋房子,它的广告语是“一生一次的机会,可以拥有一件摇滚史文物”。感觉就像坐上时光机,在20世纪70年代漫步。古色古香的厨房里有橘色、黑色和金色的地毯,厅里有木质墙面板,科本的卧室还保持他离开时的原貌:墙上有拳头打出来的洞,还有大量向他喜爱的乐队致敬的涂鸦(“齐柏林飞艇”[Led Zeppelin]、“铁娘子”[Iron Maiden]),以及他最喜欢的啤酒:Olde English 800。

A former manager of the men’s shoe department of Aberdeen’s J. C. Penney store, Mr. Simpson, 73, isn’t in the heart of the Nirvana fan demographic. But when I dialed up “Territorial Pissings,” the most aggressively punk Nirvana tunes I could find on my iPhone, he insisted that he liked it. While we were checking out the recently unveiled and much maligned Kurt Cobain statue, a not-very-flattering rendition of Cobain in ripped jeans with a tear falling from one eye, at the Aberdeen History Museum, Mr. Simpson took a call and relayed the news that the standoff was over. “Good news, the guy surrendered,” he said.

辛普森先生曾经当过阿伯丁J.C.Penney商场男鞋部的经理,他今年73岁,并不是“涅槃”的铁杆歌迷,但我用iPhone播放起《领地便溺》(Territorial Pissings)——这是我手机里能找到的“涅槃”最有攻击性的一首朋克歌曲——他却一个劲地说自己喜欢这首歌。我们去看阿伯丁历史博物馆里新近落成的那座差评无数的柯特·科本塑像。这个科本形象并不怎么讨喜,他穿着破烂的牛仔裤,一滴眼泪从一只眼睛里流下来。辛普森接了个电话,然后告诉我对峙结束了。“好消息,那人投降了,”他说。

Aberdeen’s must-see Cobain site is a small park, opened in 2011 by the Kurt Cobain Memorial Foundation, called Kurt Cobain Landing, which sits at the foot of the Young Street Bridge, the inspiration for the song “Something in the Way.” Cobain claimed that he lived under the bridge for a time, and while most who knew him don’t think he did, it was clearly one of his preferred hangouts. Set along the banks of the murky Wishkah River, the strangely appealing little park features a guitar sculpture, a likeness of Cobain with the lyrics to “Something in the Way,” a headstone with some amusing Cobain quotes (sample: “I’m a walking bacterial infection”), a Kurt Cobain “air guitar” sculpture and a collage of Nirvana-related graffiti under the bridge itself.

在阿伯丁,纪念科本的必去之地是一座小公园,2011年由柯特·科本纪念基金会开放,名为“柯特·科本着陆平台”(Kurt Cobain Landing),它坐落在青年街大桥之下,科本就是在这里得到了《路上的某些东西》(Something in the Way)的创作灵感。他说自己在这座桥下住过一段时间,虽说大多数认识他的人都认为他并没真的住在那里,不过这里显然是他常呆的地方之一。这座小公园坐落在阴郁的维斯卡河之畔,有着奇异的魅力,里面有一座吉他雕塑;一座柯特塑像,刻有《路上的某些东西》(Something in the Way)的歌词;一座纪念碑,上面刻着科本一些有趣的引言,比如“我是行走的细菌感染源”之类;还有一个柯特·科本摆出弹吉他姿势的雕塑,以及桥下一组和“涅槃”相关的涂鸦集锦。

After the tour, I checked out a host of Nirvana-related sites, including six different homes where he once lived.

这次旅行结束之后,我又去了许多和“涅槃”有关的地方,包括科本曾经住过的六个家。

I knew that Cobain had grown up poor, but seeing all of the places where he lived, including Dale Crover’s porch, at 609 West Second Street, where he slept inside a refrigerator box for a time, gave me a new appreciation for how much he overcame.

我知道科本出身贫困,但是看过他生活过的所有地方后,我才开始重新认识到他曾克服了什么,这其中包括西二街609号,戴尔·克洛瓦(Dale Crover)家的门廊,科本曾在门廊上一个冰柜里睡过一段。

Surely no one who knew Kurt Cobain then could have predicted that someday he’d have two towns fighting to claim him as a native son.

当然,当时所有认识柯特·科本的人都不曾预料到将来会有这么一天:两个城镇会为争夺他的出身之地而争斗不休。

Hoquiam, Aberdeen’s neighbor and rival, issued a proclamation honoring Nirvana in February, prompting Aberdeen to “reclaim” Kurt with a Cobain day of its own. The home where he lived in Hoquiam from birth until he was 2 looked just as forlorn as most of his residences in Aberdeen but Hoquiam also had an appealing, if dated, little downtown.

霍奎厄姆是阿伯丁的邻居和竞争对手,它发表一份公告,宣布在2月里纪念“涅槃”,这迫使阿伯丁设立自己的“科本日”,来“收回”柯特。科本在霍奎厄姆出生,住到两岁,他在这里的家看上去和他在阿伯丁住过的大多数地方一样凄凉,但霍奎厄姆依然是一座有魅力的小镇,虽然有些老旧。

Two months after playing their first ever gig, at a house party in Raymond, Cobain left Aberdeen and moved to Olympia, a comparatively bohemian oasis where he found his creative muse. My first stop was 114 Pear Street, a small house in central Olympia split into three apartments where Cobain lived with Tracy Marander, his girlfriend at the time. She supported him while he wrote many of the songs that would appear on “Nevermind.” They broke up, but he kept their tiny apartment until July 1991, when he returned from doing promotional work in Los Angeles for the forthcoming “Nevermind” to find that he’d been evicted, his belongings discarded in the street like trash.

科本在雷蒙德的一次家庭派对上做了自己生平的首场演出,两个月后便离开阿伯丁,迁往奥林匹亚,那里相对而言更像是一处波西米亚绿洲,他在那里找到了灵感源泉。我在奥林匹亚的第一站是佩尔街114号,位于奥林匹亚中部的一栋小房子,里面分为三个公寓,科本就是在那里与当时的女友崔西·马伦达(Tracy Marander)同居,在她的支持下,他写下了《别在意》(Nevermind)里的许多歌曲。两人分手后,他还一直住在这个小公寓里,直到1991年7月,他去洛杉矶为即将发行的《别在意》做宣传,回来后就发现自己被驱逐了,他的东西像垃圾一样被丢到街上。

Scott Taylor, the lead singer and guitar player for the Hard Way, lives in apartment No. 3, where Cobain wrote Nirvana’s most recognizable songs, and he offered me a tour. Inside the compact one-bedroom apartment, Mr. Taylor has a Nirvana poster featuring a photo of Cobain posing in what is now Mr. Taylor’s backyard, and another photo of the band playing an early gig. The fact that a musician is bathing in the same black claw-foot tub Cobain used to pass out in isn’t a huge coincidence: For a small city, Olympia’s music scene is as vibrant as they come.

 “艰难之路”(Hard Way)的主唱兼吉他手斯科特·泰勒(Scott Taylor)住在三号公寓,科本就是在这里写下“涅槃”的诸多名曲,泰勒带我参观。这是一个紧凑的,只有一间卧室的小公寓,泰勒在里面贴了一张“涅槃”的海报,照片里科本摆姿势的地方,如今已经成了泰勒的后院,另外还有一张乐队早期演出的照片。科本曾在这个浴室里的黑脚浴缸中烂醉如泥,如今它的主人也是一名乐手,这并不是什么大巧合,奥林匹亚是一个小城市,但这里的音乐圈一直都很繁荣。

At the old-school McMenamin’s Spar Café, where he reportedly liked to hang out, I asked my waitress, Heidi, about Cobain’s connection to Olympia.

老式风格的麦克麦纳米拳击咖啡吧据说是科本喜欢逗留的地方,我问女招待海蒂,科本和奥林匹亚是什么样的关系。

“Kurt lived at the house I live in now,” she said. “He lived everywhere, but got kicked out of each place.”

“我现在住的地方柯特也住过,”她说,“他在哪儿都住过,但最后总被赶出来。”

On my way back up to Seattle, Nirvana tunes rattling my rented Corolla, I felt that trying to follow in Cobain’s footsteps was a lot like chasing a shadow. That was nowhere more so than in Seattle itself, which has changed almost beyond recognition since he died.

回西雅图路上,“涅槃”的歌曲在我租来的科罗拉车中回响,我感觉追随科本的足迹有点像追逐阴影。尤其是在西雅图,这里自从去世后已经发生了巨大的变化,让人几乎认不出来了。

Bruce Pavitt, the founder of the Sub Pop record label, which signed Nirvana, and the author of “Experiencing Nirvana: Grunge in Europe 1989,” told me that the one Seattle venue where Nirvana played that has largely stayed the same is the Central Saloon, the city’s oldest bar, established in 1892. Most rock historians consider a show Nirvana played at the Vogue, now a hair salon, the band’s first Seattle gig, but Mr. Pavitt insisted that a Nirvana showcase he attended on April 10, 1988, at the Central Saloon was the band’s very first.

布鲁斯·帕维特(Bruce Pavitt)是曾经签下“涅槃”的Sub Pop厂牌的创始人,著有《体验涅槃:1989年Grunge在欧洲》(Experiencing Nirvana: Grunge in Europe 1989)一书。他告诉我西雅图的一个地方,是“涅槃”当年曾经演出,并且至今保持原貌的场馆——“中心沙龙”(Central Saloon),这座城市最古老的酒吧,建立于1892年。大多数摇滚历史学家都认为“涅槃”在西雅图的第一场演出是在“时尚”(Vogue),如今那里已经成为一家美发厅。但帕维特坚持说,乐队在西雅图的第一场演出是1988年4月10日,在中心沙龙,他本人也参加了。

“No one else remembers it,” he said, “because it was just me, the doorman and about three other people.”

“没有别人记得这件事了,”他说,“因为观众只有我,看门人和其他三个人。”

The Central is still a grand old tavern, but when I visited it in late February, it was filled with a well-dressed, affluent crowd. Other notable Nirvana venues in Seattle include the Crocodile, a once grungy club that has now been renovated, the OK Hotel, where the band first played “Smells Like Teen Spirit,” now an upscale condo, and Beehive Records, where Nirvana played a legendary in-store concert just before the release of “Nevermind”; it is now a Petco store. Linda’s Tavern, a celebrated neighborhood bar nicknamed the “grunge Cheers” was where Cobain was last seen alive.

中心沙龙至今仍是一家老旧的大酒馆,但我2月底到那里参观的时候,发现里面挤满了穿着入时的有钱人。西雅图另一个和“涅槃”有关的场地是“鳄鱼”(Crocodile),它曾是一家grunge俱乐部,如今已经彻底翻新;“涅槃”首次出演《少年心气》(Smells Like Teen Spirit)的OK酒店(OK Hotel)如今已成为一栋高档公寓;《别在意》(Nevermind)发行之前,涅槃曾在蜂巢唱片店(Beehive Records)举行传奇的商店内演唱会,如今这里已经成了一家Petco超市。琳达的酒馆(Linda’s Tavern)是附近一家著名的酒吧,绰号“垃圾摇滚的欢呼”,科本生前最后一次被人看到就是在那里。

Tiny Viretta Park, adjacent to the imposing estate on Lake Washington Boulevard that Cobain and Ms. Love moved into less than four months before his death, along with their daughter, Frances Bean Cobain, also has endured. Nirvana fans from around the world come to etch graffiti in the park’s lone bench or leave flowers, even though the city of Seattle has refused to rename the place Kurt Cobain Park.

小维莱塔公园毗邻华盛顿湖大街那栋壮观的宅邸,科本和拉夫带着女儿弗朗西斯·比恩·科本(Frances Bean Cobain)搬进去不到四个月,科本就与世长辞。这座公园如今还在。来自世界各地的“涅槃”歌迷们来到这里,在公园唯一的长椅上绘下涂鸦或献上鲜花,尽管西雅图市拒绝把这里命名为“柯特·科本公园”。

Walking around the Denny-Blaine neighborhood, the last place where Cobain lived, I felt that Aberdeen’s most famous son never really fit in with Seattle anyway, certainly not in this exclusive area. I sat on the unofficial Cobain bench and thought about how the Cobain haunts in Seattle, Olympia and Aberdeen mirrored the big picture of what’s happened to these places. Olympia is artier than it used to be, with struggling musicians everywhere, even in Cobain’s old apartment. The dilapidated Cobain childhood homes in Aberdeen spoke to the depressing reality that many young people there are still trying to escape, perhaps now even more than before. The fact that most of the grungy places where Nirvana played in Seattle are either gone or completely different is a testament to the continued gentrification of the city.

丹尼-布莱恩是科本生前住过的最后一个地方,在这里散步时,我觉得这位阿伯丁市最著名的儿子从未真正适应西雅图,在这处豪华住宅区感觉肯定不好。我坐在那张非正式的“科本长椅”上,想着科本在西雅图、奥林匹亚与阿伯丁常去的那些地方,它们如何反映出那些地方近年来的变迁。奥林匹亚比过去更加艺术化了,到处都有奋斗中的音乐家,甚至科本的旧居里就住着一位。科本童年时期在阿伯丁住过的破败老屋反映了如今许多年轻人仍在努力摆脱的沮丧现实。“涅槃”在西雅图演出过的大多数“垃圾摇滚”场所如今不是不复存在,就是面目全非,证明这座城市在不断中产化。

As these thoughts swirled in my head, the words to a song I had heard during an open mike at Tugboat Annies in Olympia the night before popped into my head.

这些想法在我脑海中久久盘旋,一首歌词突然涌入我的脑海,那是我在奥林匹亚的“安妮拖船”(Tugboat Annies)的一次公开演出中听到的。

A diminutive, bearded rapper named MC Swamptiger played “Peace,” a song whose final lines, sung — no, screamed — with conviction made me think of Cobain: “IN MY DEATH, I FINALLY FOUND MY PEACE! IN MY DEATH, I FINALLY FOUND MY PEACE. I SAID, IN MY DEATH, I FINALLY FOUND MY PEACE!”

“MC沼泽虎”(MC Swamptiger)是个身材矮小、留着山羊胡的说唱歌手,他表演了一首名叫《平静》(Peace)的歌,其中最后几句与其说是在唱,不如说是在尖叫,它们让我想到科本:“在死亡中,我终于找到平静!在死亡中,我终于找到平静!在死亡中,我终于找到平静!”

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