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浪漫之都巴黎的五个甜蜜去处

更新时间:2014-3-8 12:07:36 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Five Sweet Stops for Paris Fashion Week
浪漫之都巴黎的五个甜蜜去处

In 2010, Vogue Paris named the inimitable Irish expat and award-winning cookbook author Trish Deseine one of its 40 “women of the decade.” That they included her alongside icons like Marion Cotillard and Zaha Hadid is a testament to her talent, to be sure, but also a nod to her invaluable contribution to the annals of French cuisine. Deseine’s work, which spans 17 books and a long-running recipe column for French Elle, has succeeded in both lifting the complexity from French home cooking and exhorting fat-free hardliners to consider (and taste) the merits of butter and sugar, which she insists are two of the greatest boons to food.With her latest book, “The Paris Gourmet,” the bonne vivante parlayed her boundless knowledge of the local food scene into a little black book (or yellow, as it were) of her most beloved addresses, from néo-bistrots and fromageries to gourmet grocers and pastry shops. Here, as recommendations for those currently in town for Paris Fashion Week, she shares her top-five treat stops of the moment.

2010年,《Vogue》巴黎版把无与伦比的爱尔兰移民、备受赞誉的食谱作者特里希·迪西恩(Trish Deseine)列为它的40位“十年风云女性”之一。他们把她与玛丽昂·歌迪亚(Marion Cotillard)和扎哈·哈迪德(Zaha Hadid)这样的偶像人物放在一起,当然是对她才华的肯定,也是向她对法国菜的历史记载做出的宝贵贡献致敬。迪西恩的作品包括17本食谱以及《Elle》法国版的一个老牌美食专栏。她不仅成功地降低了法国家庭烹饪的复杂程度,劝诫严格避免摄入脂肪的人考虑(并品尝)黄油和糖的好处,她坚持认为这两样东西是食物最美好的两种恩赐。在她的新书《巴黎美食家》(The Paris Gourmet)中,这位“活泼的女佣”充分利用她对当地美食的广博知识,把她最爱的美食店写入一本小小的黑皮书(过去是黄皮书)中,从新开的小酒馆、干酪店到美食杂货店和糕饼店。现在她为来参加巴黎时装周的人推荐了五个当下最好的美食店。

Left: a macaron from Pierre Hermé. Right: the showcases at La Grande Epicerie.
左:皮埃尔·赫姆的马卡龙;右:大食杂店的橱窗。

Pierre Hermé
“The ever-innovating Pierre Hermé’s current ‘Fetish’ collection is all about lemon. Special mention for the lemon curd macaron, a lesson in simplicity, and the sublime tarte au citron, where Pierre has played with pulp, peel, zest and juice to make sure every mouthful is different. Check out his Rue Bonaparte and Rue Vaugirard stores to see if you can snaffle one of the last of Japanese designer Kenya Hara’s beautiful signed, limited-edition cases for Pierre’s most famous creation, the Ispahan — only 1,500 have been made.” 72, rue Bonaparte, 75006; pierreherme.com.

皮埃尔·赫姆(Pierre Hermé): “不断创新的皮埃尔·赫姆目前的‘迷恋’系列都是关于柠檬的。需要特别提到的是柠檬酱马卡龙和无与伦比的柠檬挞——前者有着简洁之美,后者加入了果肉、果皮、果皮屑和果汁,确保每一口的口感都不相同。去他位于波拿巴街和沃吉哈赫街的店铺看一看,试试能否抢到日本设计师原研哉为皮埃尔最著名的创造——伊斯法罕——特别设计的,漂亮的签名款限量版袋子——只做了1500个哦。”波拿巴街72号,75006;pierreherme.com。

La Grande Epicerie
“The very swish revamp of La Grande Epicerie means you can at least ogle the cakes being assembled in the storefront windows-cum-ateliers if eating them remains out of the question. Chantilly excellence is a high priority here, and the St. Honoré is as sculptural as the Pavlova is light. And over in the main store, Rose Bakery has a new outpost that’s altogether more chic and airy (and friendly) than its Marais predecessor. Fantastic carrot cake, Victoria sponge, cheesecake and, of course, Rose Carrarrini’s world-famous scones.” 38, rue de Sèvres, 75007; lagrandeepicerie.com.

大食杂店(La Grande Epicerie):“大食杂店的新店面很时髦,至少你可以注视摆在店面橱窗兼工作室里的蛋糕——如果你不能去吃它们的话。精品奶油泡芙是这里的首选,圣奥诺雷蛋糕如雕刻一般,帕夫洛娃蛋白酥蛋糕明亮光洁。在主店里,玫瑰面包房新开了个分店,比玛黑区的老店更时髦,更宽敞(也更友好)。这里有不可思议的胡萝卜蛋糕,维多利亚海绵蛋糕,奶酪蛋糕,当然还有罗斯·卡拉里尼(Rose Carrarrini)举世闻名的司康饼。”塞夫尔街38号,75007;lagrandeepicerie.com。

Gateaux Thoumieux
“The Michelin-starred Jean-Francois Piège has gone back to one of his first loves and very kindly opened a pâtisserie just across the road from the brasserie and hotel Thoumieux. Catch his Breton sable clementine and ‘saffon’ tarte — a crumbly, aromatic, bittersweet delight — before it disappears as the citrus season wanes, mid-March. Be sure to try the latest in his collection of micro-puffs within mini-puffs, the salted caramel Chou-Chou.” 79, rue Saint-Dominique, 75007; gateauxthoumieux.com.

加托·图米厄(Gateaux Thoumieux):“米其林星级餐馆让-弗朗索瓦·皮埃热(Jean-Francois Piège)回归他最初的一个挚爱,非常好心地在啤酒店和图米厄酒店的马路对面开了一家糕饼店。赶紧来品尝他的布列塔尼褐色柑橘“萨冯”挞——一种松脆、芳香、苦甜参半的甜品——不然在3月中旬柑橘季结束后它就消失了。一定要尝尝他的迷你泡芙中的微型泡芙系列的新品——咸味焦糖泡芙。”圣多米克街79号,75007;gateauxthoumieux.com。

Emperor Norton sweets at Fondation Café
“Good coffee is at last available in Paris, largely thanks to the influence and passion of a handful of pioneering, non-French indie cafe owners. And with it, an Anglo-tinted mix of all my nostalgic bakery favorites are increasingly appearing around the city. One of the best producers is Emperor Norton, and at the cute Fondation Café, started by the Australian barista Chris Nielsen, you can pick up their tarts, cookies, banana bread and très célèbre granola.” 16, rue Dupetit Thouars, 75003; facebook.com/fondationcafe.

基础咖啡店的诺顿皇帝甜品(Emperor Norton sweets at Fondation Café):“巴黎终于有了好咖啡,这主要归功于少数开拓型的非法国独立咖啡店主的影响力和热情。城里各地随之出现了所有我最喜欢、最怀念的盎格鲁风格糕点组合。其中最优秀的是“诺顿皇帝”甜品;在澳大利亚咖啡师克里斯·尼尔森(Chris Nielsen)可爱的“基础”咖啡馆可以吃到。你还可以尝尝他们的蛋挞、饼干、香蕉面包和特别著名的格兰诺拉燕麦卷。”迪珀蒂·图阿尔街16号,75003;facebook.com/fondationcafe。

Pâtisserie des Martyrs — Sébastien Gaudard
“Sébastien Gaudard’s Mont Blanc — meringue and whipped cream and vanilla and sweet chestnut squiggles — is pure, sweet comfort if the wind is cold. Or grab one of his caramelized white-chocolate bars with fleur de sel as a handbag stowaway.” 22, rue des Martyrs, 75009; sebastiengaudard.fr.

殉道者糕点铺——塞巴斯蒂安·戈达尔(Pâtisserie des Martyrs — Sébastien Gaudard):“在寒风刮起时,塞巴斯蒂安·戈达尔的勃朗峰——调和蛋白、生奶油、香草和甜栗——是纯粹的甜蜜慰藉。或者买点焦糖味海盐白巧克力棒,作为偷藏在手袋里的小甜品。”殉道街22号,75009;sebastiengaudard.fr。

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