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36小时玩转夏威夷考艾岛

更新时间:2014-2-8 21:11:44 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Kauai, Hawaii
36小时玩转夏威夷考艾岛

These days, Kauai sits firmly on the tourist radar, an indisputable rival of its famous neighbors, Oahu and Maui. But upon first glance at its unspoiled natural splendor, you’d never know it. A closer look at one of the oldest (geologically speaking) and arguably most beautiful of the major Hawaiian Islands reveals a blossoming culinary scene, a rooted arts community and a smattering of resorts. But thanks to careful regulation (by law, building heights max out at 55 feet) and a certain amount of pushback from residents (in 2007 protesters quickly quashed high-speed ferry service between Oahu and Kauai), most of the island still feels like the world’s most stunning backwater.

这些年来,考艾岛(Kauai)在游客心中的地位坚如磐石,一直是它著名芳邻瓦胡岛(Oahu)与毛伊岛(Maui)无可争议的竞争对手。可是,只有当你亲眼见到它纯净无暇的自然风光时,才会真正明白这一点。它是夏威夷群岛各大岛中(从地质意义上说)最古老的一个,也是最美丽的一个,尽管后一点尚存争议。走近细看,面前徐徐展开的是欣欣向荣的餐饮业、早已生根发芽的艺术社区和若干个度假区。但是,幸好有严格的管制(法律规定,这里的建筑物最高只能建到55英尺高,约合16.8米),当地居民的反制措施(2007年,抗议者迅速取消了瓦胡岛与考艾岛之间的高速渡船服务),因此在考艾岛上大部分区域游览,你仍会感觉这是世界上最为惊艳的寂静港湾。

Waterfalls provide a dramatic backdrop as people stroll along Hanalei Bay.
游客沿着哈纳雷湾(Hanalei Bay)漫步,背景是美不胜收的瀑布群。

FRIDAY

星期五

6 p.m.

傍晚6点

1. Art and Literature

1. 艺术与文学

Kauai’s small but enthusiastic community of artists clusters in Hanapepe, with its dozen or so galleries housed in buildings along Hanapepe Road that, although reminiscent of America’s Wild West, were built by Asian immigrants around the turn of the 20th century. Every Friday, the galleries and other shops leave their doors open late for Hanapepe Art Night. You can browse through exhibitions at galleries like Island Art Gallery, at 3876 Hanapepe Road (islandartkauai.com), and Amy-Lauren’s Gallery, at 4545 Kona Road (amylaurensgallery.com), which feature local artists taking inspiration from the landscape and culture of Kauai. Craft and food vendors selling Hawaiian barbecue and tacos also set up shop along the street. Reserve time to browse the pleasantly musty stacks of new and used books at Talk Story Bookstore, the only dedicated bookstore on the island — and it is a charmer.

考艾岛上的哈纳佩佩(Hanapepe)是个紧凑而热烈的艺术家聚居区,哈纳佩佩路(Hanapepe Road)上有十几家画廊,那一幕会让人想起美国的西大荒,但它其实是亚裔移民在二十世纪初建造起来的。每逢周五,画廊和其他店铺都开门营业到很晚,欢庆哈纳佩佩艺术之夜。你可以去某些出色的画廊浏览艺术品,比如岛屿艺术馆(Island Art Gallery,网站islandartkauai.com,地址是哈纳佩佩路3876号)、艾米·劳伦艺术馆(Amy-Lauren’s Gallery,网站amylaurensgallery.com,地址Kona路4545号)。它们展示着本地艺术家从考艾岛的风景与文化中汲取的灵感。街上也有几家餐馆供应夏威夷烤肉和墨西哥卷饼。给自己留出时间去讲故事书店(Talk Story Bookstore)逛逛,这是岛上唯一一家图书专营店。轻松愉快地翻阅那一堆堆泛着淡淡霉味的新书与旧书,你会发现它真是个迷人的地方。

8 p.m.

晚上8点

2. Dinner With Sugar

2. 香甜的晚餐

Kauai’s sugar industry once dominated the landscape, and the footprints of its sprawling plantations continue to shape it today. Towns founded to serve plantation workers now serve shoppers, and plantation grounds now cater to myriad leisurely pursuits. This is especially true at the Kilohana Plantation. Here, in what was once a sprawling 16,000-square-foot home, bedrooms have been converted into shops selling items like jewelry and pottery made by local artisans; the inner courtyard is now the elegant Gaylord’s Restaurant. After a couple of years of tinkering, the menu has settled on a by-turns familiar and adventurous approach — the island caprese ($14) is a refreshing twist on the salad standard, while the sesame seared fresh catch ($29) reimagines classic Hawaiian seafood dishes. Live guitar players in flowery shirts sing beachy rock standards, providing just the right dose of Hawaiian kitsch.

过去,蔗糖加工业是考艾岛上的主流产业,直到今天岛上依然随处可见广袤的甘蔗种植园。当年为了满足种植园工人的需要,一座座小镇涌现出来,时至今日,岛上的种植园则是为了迎合游客的休闲与购物需求,对于奇洛哈纳种植园(Kilohana Plantation)来说尤其如此。这片16000平方英尺(合1486平方米)的昔日种植园现在是座度假村。卧室改建成各种店铺,出售本地手工艺人制作的珠宝与陶器;内部的庭院里是华丽的盖洛德餐厅(Gaylord’s Restaurant),经过两三年的探索与尝试之后,它终于找到了菜肴的定位,即家常菜与创新菜轮番上阵。岛屿红白小碟($14)是一种清新爽口的沙拉;芝麻烤鲜鱼($29)再现了夏威夷经典海鲜菜肴的模样。穿着花衬衫的吉他表演者做现场表演,唱着海滩摇滚流行曲目,提供不多不少正合适的夏威夷式刻奇(kitsch,指俗气的艺术,迎合低级趣味的作品——译注)。

SATURDAY

星期六

8:30 a.m.

上午8:30

3. Coffee at the Source

3. 正宗咖啡

Load up on hearty egg, vegetable and rice dishes (about $10) at Kalaheo Café & Coffee Co. Wash it down with a local blend, then head to the source. The Kauai Coffee Company got its start in 1987, taking over land formerly used for sugarcane. Since then, it has survived encroachment from the tourist industry to maintain its oceanfront headquarters, 3,100 acres of coffee trees and status as the largest coffee plantation in Hawaii. The self-guided tour is short and interesting, and connoisseurs will get a kick out of the many varieties ready to sample inside the visitor’s center.

在Kalaheo Café & Coffee Co.餐馆,就着一杯本地特产的浓香咖啡,饱餐一顿丰盛的炒饭(大约$10,里面有鸡蛋和蔬菜),然后去寻找咖啡香气的源头——考艾岛咖啡公司。它始建于1987年,原址是一片甘蔗田,从那时起就不断抵抗着旅游业的侵蚀,保卫自己位于海滨的办公场所、3100英亩的咖啡林及夏威夷最大咖啡种植园的地位。在这片种植园里的自助游时间虽短却很有趣。游客中心里有各种各样的咖啡样品供品尝,内行对此会非常开心。

10:30 a.m.

上午10:30

4. Hikes With Views

4. 徒步看风景

Kauai is more than five million years old — plenty of time for nature to carve out some dramatic contours. Perhaps most dramatic is Waimea Canyon, a chasm over 3,000 feet deep and composed of a thousand shades of brown, green and red. Take Highway 550 to Kokee State Park, then continue on, stopping at lookouts along the way — those past mile marker 9 are particularly majestic. At the very end, both Kauai topographies loom side by side, the dusty hues of the arid south against the intense greens of the lush north. A number of hikes accommodate a wide range of ambitions. The Cliff Trail, near mile marker 14, is an easy two-mile round-trip trek to a sweeping overlook. Look for Halemanu Road, where the hike begins.

考艾岛的历史有五百万年以上,这悠长的时光足以让大自然雕琢出一些绝美的轮廓。其中最美的恐怕要数威美亚峡谷(Waimea Canyon),山谷至少3000英尺(约914米)深,由千百片棕色、绿色与红色的暗影组成。沿着550号公路到达寇吉州立公园(Kokee State Park),继续向前,记得在路边的几处观景台短暂停车,欣赏美景。走过九英里路标之后,前面几个观景台处景色尤佳。到了公路的尽头,考艾岛的两种地貌就同时出现在眼前,荒芜灰暗的南部与翠绿丰饶的北部对比鲜明。许多旅人带着各不相同的目的到这里徒步。14英里路标附近的悬崖步道(Cliff Trail)轻松便捷,双程两英里长,行走在上面,峡谷风光尽收眼底。去找Halemanu路(Halemanu Road)吧,那是徒步旅行的起点。

1:30 p.m.

中午1:30

5. End of the Road

5. 路的尽头

There’s no preparing for the visual spectacle of Kauai’s north shore, with its mountains practically dripping green and beaches aglow with barely trodden golden sand. There’s only one road in, and once you get past the resort community of Princeville, the town of Hanalei anchors the coastline with its guileless, though well-heeled, beach culture. Pick up a salmon or chicken salad sandwich (under $10) at Hanalei Gourmet, where insulated backpacks (free loaners with sandwich purchases) are available for to-go picnics, then rent snorkel gear ($7) at the Wainiha General Store just outside town. Farther on, the highway’s end is the beginning of the Na Pali Coast, roughly 12 unsullied miles of verdant shoreline. That’s where you’ll find Kee Beach, an alcove whose water is surrounded by reef, attracting colorful marine life while keeping the waves at bay. It’s a perfect snorkeling spot. After toweling off, stroll down the beach and turn around: There’s the Na Pali Coast spread before you like some fantasy realm.

从没想到考艾岛北岸的风光如此壮丽,群山青翠欲滴,金色的沙滩闪闪发光,几乎没有游人的足迹,只有一条路能够进入。过了普林斯维尔(Princeville)度假区之后,哈纳雷(Hanalei)镇的这片海岸就基本是诚信经营的高端消费区了。在Hanalei Gourmet点一份三文鱼或者鸡肉沙拉三明治($10以下)尝尝。如果你在这家店里买三明治外卖,可以免费租用他们用于野餐的隔热背包。到小镇外面的Wainiha General Store租赁潜水用的通气管($7)。继续向远处走,公路的尽头就是纳帕利海岸(Na Pali Coast),一片大约12英里的纯净无暇的翠绿海滨。在这里,你会看到津耶海滩(Kee Beach),海水为礁石围绕,吸引了五彩缤纷的海底生物,这片港湾也因此波澜不惊。完美的浮潜地点。浮潜之后用毛巾擦干身体,漫步海滩,转身一看,眼前的纳帕利海岸美不胜收,俨然一个幻想王国。

6 p.m.

傍晚6点

6. Sunset Perch

6.黄昏小憩

Not even the grandeur of the rest of the north shore can prepare you for the view you’ll have over Hanalei Bay as you sip cocktails and watch the sunset from the terrace of the St. Regis Bar. The St. Regis Princeville Resort opened in 2009 on the reimagined grounds of the old Princeville Resort, and while some still bemoan the glassing in of the formerly open-air lobby, the appeal of the space remains. The Champagne presentation just before dark feels a bit Hawaii-by-way-of-Disney, but it’s informative and a small price (about $15 to $16 per cocktail) to pay for the glorious setting and skillful bartending.

北岸其他区域风景也不错,但即便如此,你还是不曾料到,当你黄昏时分坐在圣里吉斯酒吧(St. Regis Bar)的露台上喝着鸡尾酒朝下望去的时候,日落的场景有多么的壮美。圣里吉斯普林斯维尔度假村(St. Regis Princeville Resort)开张于2009年,在之前的普林斯维尔度假村的旧址重新设计改建而成,尽管有些游客会惋惜过去露天大厅的磨光玻璃不见了,但总体来看这里风采依然。香槟只在黄昏时分供应,感觉有点像夏威夷里的迪斯尼。但是价格有点小贵,一杯鸡尾酒大概$15至$16。不过既然有灿烂的夕阳美景和娴熟的酒吧服务,这点费用也物有所值。

6:30 p.m.

傍晚6:30

7. A Friendly Barracuda

7. 友善的梭鱼

Bedtime comes early on Kauai, so start early to get in a full evening. Hanalei has become a culinary hot spot, and a recent addition to the scene is Bar Acuda, a small-plates restaurant tucked behind a health food store. Ask for a table on its cloistered wraparound porch to nibble on dishes like local honeycomb and seared sea scallop (each $12). Reservations are recommended.

考艾岛上天黑得很早,所以想要享受丰富的夜生活就要早点开始。哈纳雷已经成为餐饮业热点区域,最近又新开了一家梭鱼餐厅(Bar Acuda)。这家餐厅藏在一家健康食品店后面,菜量少而精致。坐在它幽静的弧形门廊里点一桌菜,尝一尝本地特产的蜂巢和烤扇贝($12一只)。最好预订席位。

8:30 p.m.

晚上8:30

8. Tipple in Tahiti

8. 大溪地畅饮

Follow dinner with drinks at Tahiti Nui, the best bar on the island, with its thatched walls and divey aloha ambience. There’s live music most evenings, and more often than not the genre is native to Hawaii — slack-key guitars and ukuleles rule the night. It all feels more like a family gathering than the big production for out-of-towners found elsewhere in Hawaii. Every Hawaiian-themed bar in the world wishes it could be this one.

晚饭后去大溪地酒吧(Tahiti Nui)畅饮美酒。这是岛上最好的酒吧,草墙洋溢着热烈的夏威夷风情。几乎每天晚上都有现场音乐演出,类型往往是本土音乐和夏威夷音乐,滑音吉他和尤克里里统治了夜晚。感觉更像家庭聚会,而不是为夏威夷其他地方四处可见的度假者所提供的那种大制作。全世界的夏威夷主题酒吧都恨不得变成它的模样。

SUNDAY

星期日

8 a.m.

上午8点

9. Standing on Water

9. 站在浪尖上

A quick coffee from Hanalei Wake Up Cafe should have you ready to try some stand-up paddleboarding, a Hawaiian original that has over the past decade spread around the globe. With its short learning curve and high fun quotient, after a morning lesson you may be paddling out into Hanalei Bay with the big boys. Far enough, anyway, to watch those advanced surfers catching waves at the break farther out. If the ocean’s rough, you can stick to the Hanalei River. Hawaiian Surfing Adventures gives hourlong group lessons starting at $55.

在哈纳雷觉醒咖啡馆(Hanalei Wake Up Cafe)简单地喝杯咖啡,准备就绪,去尝试立式单桨冲浪板吧。这项运动是夏威夷的原创,过去十年间已风靡全球。如果你会玩又爱学,一个上午的培训课之后你就可以跟小伙伴们在哈纳雷湾一起冲浪了。无论如何,你所处的距离已经足以让你看清更远处那些冲浪高手乘风破浪的英姿。如果海面波浪较大,你可以只留在哈纳雷河里玩。夏威夷冲浪冒险机构(Hawaiian Surfing Adventures)提供为时一个钟头的团体冲浪课($55)。

11 a.m.

上午11点

10. A Movable Feast

10. 流动的盛宴

Mom-and-pop joints dot the roadside along the drive to the Lihue Airport. Hit Moloaa Sunrise Juice Bar for smoothies or an acai bowl ($7.25). Some ingredients are sourced directly from the farms surrounding the wood hut. On the outskirts of Kapaa, Paco’s Tacos serves fish tacos ($4.85) from a food truck with picnic tables by the ocean. Coconut stands abound. Get one, and after you’ve finished drinking the juice, have the vendor cut out the coconut’s meat — it’s delicious.

三三两两的爸妈组合走在通向利胡埃机场(Lihue Airport)的路上。去Moloaa Sunrise Juice Bar吃点儿鲜果奶昔,或者来一碗巴西紫莓冰霜(acai bowl, $7.25)。这座木屋供应的美食都从周围的农田中就地取材,十分鲜嫩。卡帕亚(Kapaa)郊外的Paco’s Tacos在海边摆开许多野餐桌,供应墨西哥鱼肉卷饼($4.85),美食就装在一辆食品卡车上。到处都是椰子。买一个吧,喝完椰汁之后,让卖椰子的小贩帮忙把果肉削下来,很好吃的。

12:30 p.m.

中午12:30

11. Environmental Survey

11. 有利于环保的空中巡游

While helicopter tours are popular, and breathtaking, planes offer an alternative that use a fraction of the fuel a helicopter gobbles up — and they’re cheaper. AirVentures Hawaii offers 70-minute flights ($125) over the majority of the island not accessible by car, including the Na Pali Coast, numerous peaks and valleys and more waterfalls than you could count.

这里流行的直升飞机虽然激动人心,但是也有普通飞机,它们消耗的燃油比直升飞机少得多,费用也低廉。AirVentures Hawaii公司提供70分钟的空中巡游($125),乘飞机飞越岛上大部分区域的上空,许多地方都是汽车无法抵达的,比如纳帕利海岸、许多山峰、山谷和数不胜数的瀑布。

2 p.m.

下午2点

12. Plantation Past

12.昔日种植园

The town of Koloa sprang up to serve workers on the island’s first sugar plantation, founded in 1835. It’s been lovingly preserved and today houses shops ranging from practical to amusing — a perfect stop for last-minute souvenirs. The Ukulele Store is an outpost of Larry’s Music in Kapaa, with rows upon rows of this classic Hawaiian instrument for sale. If you’re still hungry, TomKat’s Grille is a local favorite with a lost-in-time garden.

1835年,岛上第一座蔗糖种植园建成,为了服务园里的工人,涌现出了一座科洛阿小镇。这座可爱的小镇至今保存完好,街上的店铺风格多样,有的实用,有的好玩,是临行前购买纪念品的最佳地点。尤克里里是夏威夷的经典特色乐器,尤克里里商店(Ukulele Store)则是卡帕亚的拉里音乐店(Larry’s Music)在此地的前哨,店里摆着成排的琴供出售。如果你还感到饿,就去TomKat’s Grille,这是本地人最爱的餐馆,周围的风景宛如世外桃源。

THE DETAILS

实用信息

1. Talk Story Bookstore, 3785 Hanapepe Road, Hanapepe; talkstorybookstore.com.

1. 讲故事书店,哈纳佩佩路3785号;talkstorybookstore.com.

2. Gaylord’s Restaurant, 3-2087 Kaumualii Highway, Lihue; gaylordskauai.com.

2. 盖洛德餐厅,3-2087 Kaumualii Highway, Lihue; gaylordskauai.com.

3. Kalaheo Café & Coffee Co., 2-2560 Kaumualii Highway, Kalaheo; kalaheo.com. Kauai Coffee Company, 870 Halewili Road, Kalaheo; kauaicoffee.com.

3. Kalaheo Café & Coffee Co., 2-2560 Kaumualii Highway, Kalaheo; kalaheo.com. Kauai Coffee Company, 870 Halewili Road, Kalaheo; kauaicoffee.com.

4. Waimea Canyon, Highway 550 past mile marker 9. Cliff Trail, Highway 550 to Halemanu Road, near mile marker 14.

4. 威美亚峡谷,550号公路9英里路标过后。悬崖步道,550号公路至Halemanu路,14英里路标附近。

5. Hanalei Gourmet, 5-5161 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; hanaleigourmet.com. Wainiha General Store, 5-6607 Kuhio Highway; 808-826-6251.

5. Hanalei Gourmet, 5-5161 Kuhio Highway, 哈纳雷;hanaleigourmet.com. Wainiha General Store, 5-6607 Kuhio Highway; 808-826-6251.

6. St. Regis Bar, in the St. Regis Princeville Resort, 5520 Ka Haku Road, Princeville; stregisprinceville.com.

6. 圣里吉斯酒吧,位于圣里吉斯普林斯维尔度假村之内,5520 Ka Haku Road,普林斯维尔; stregisprinceville.com.

7. Bar Acuda, 5-5161 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; restaurantbaracuda.com.

7. 梭鱼餐厅,5-5161 Kuhio Highway, 哈纳雷;restaurantbaracuda.com.

8. Tahiti Nui, 5-5134 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; thenui.com.

8. 大溪地酒吧,5-5134 Kuhio Highway,哈纳雷;thenui.com.

9. Hanalei Wake Up Cafe, 5-5144 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; hanaleiwakeupcafe.com. Hawaiian Surfing Adventures, 5-5134 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; hawaiiansurfingadventures.com.

9. 哈纳雷觉醒咖啡馆,5-5144 Kuhio Highway,哈纳雷;hanaleiwakeupcafe.com。夏威夷冲浪冒险机构,5-5134 Kuhio Highway,哈纳雷;hawaiiansurfingadventures.com.

10. Moloaa Sunrise Juice Bar, 6011 Koolau Road, Anahola; moloaasunrisejuicebar.com. Paco’s Tacos, 4-1638 Kuhio Highway, Kapaa.

10. Moloaa Sunrise Juice Bar, 6011 Koolau Road, Anahola; moloaasunrisejuicebar.com. Paco’s Tacos, 4-1638 Kuhio Highway,卡帕亚。

11. AirVentures Hawaii, 3651 Ahukini Road, Lihue; airventureshawaii.com.

11. AirVentures Hawaii, 3651 Ahukini Road, Lihue; airventureshawaii.com.

12. The Ukulele Store, 5330 Koloa Road, Koloa. TomKat’s Grille, 5402 Koloa Road.

12. 尤克里里商店, 5330 Koloa Road, Koloa. TomKat’s Grille, 5402 Koloa Road.

LODGING

住宿

At the Aston Waimea Plantation Cottages (9400 Kaumualii Highway, Waimea; waimea-plantation.com) 57 restored cottages dot the sprawling grounds of a one-time oceanfront sugar plantation. Rates for a one-bedroom start at $199.

Aston Waimea Plantation Cottages(9400 Kaumualii Highway, Waimea; waimea-plantation.com)由一座广阔的海滨蔗糖种植园改建而成,里面有57座改建的农舍。床位$199起。

It’s hard to imagine a hotel that takes better advantage of the natural wonders surrounding it than the St. Regis Princeville Resort (5520 Ka Haku Road, Princeville; stregisprinceville.com). The 252 rooms officially start at $1,100 but are often found online for under $400.

很难想象还有哪座酒店比圣里吉斯普林斯维尔度假村(5520 Ka Haku Road,普林斯维尔;stregisprinceville.com)更擅长利用周围的自然风光了。村里有252间客房,报价$1100起,但在网上你会发现实际价格时常降到$400以下。

A quirkier option is the Hanalei Surfboard House (5459 Weke Road, Hanalei; hanaleisurfboardhouse.com), with its three unique rooms; it’s one of the only places to stay within Hanalei’s town limits. From $325 per night, plus a one-time $95 cleaning fee.

更奇趣的选择是哈纳雷冲浪屋(Hanalei Surfboard House,地址是5459 Weke Road,哈纳雷;hanaleisurfboardhouse.com),内有三间独特的客房。如果你想在哈纳雷镇内住宿,这是仅有的选择之一。每晚$325起,另收一次性清洁费$95。

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