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与卡戴珊一家的金钱同行

更新时间:2019/4/4 20:30:18 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Keeping Up With the Kardashian Cash Flow
与卡戴珊一家的金钱同行

Even when bad things happen to the Kardashians, they still make money.

卡戴珊一家即使遇到了不好的事情,也还是能赚到钱。

In February, rumors surfaced that reality star Khloé Kardashian’s boyfriend, NBA player Tristan Thompson, had cheated on her again, this time with her half-sister’s best friend, Jordyn Woods.

今年2月,有传言称真人秀明星克洛依·卡戴珊(Khloé Kardashian)的男友、NBA球员特里斯坦·汤普森(Tristan Thompson)再次出轨,这次是跟她同父异母的妹妹的好友乔丁·伍兹(Jordyn Woods)。

Jordyn was so close to Kylie Jenner, the youngest of the Kardashian-Jenner sisters, that they lived together, and Kylie, who has her own makeup empire, had named several product lines in Jordyn’s honor. That included the Jordy Lip Kit, a matching set of velvety lip gloss and liner in raspberry red.

乔丁与卡戴珊-詹纳姐妹中最年轻的凯莉·詹纳(Kylie Jenner)关系好到住在了一起,凯莉拥有自己的化妆品帝国,她以乔丁的名字命名了几条产品线。其中包括乔丁唇膏套装,包括配套的丝绒液态唇膏和覆盆子红的唇线笔。

After days of speculation about the affair, Kardashian devotees noticed the price of the Jordy Lip Kit on the Kylie Cosmetics website had been slashed from $27 to $13.50. Customer reviews of the product began to take an angry tone: “This shade smells like betrayal” and “Be mindful of the shade as wearing it may lead to biting the hand that feeds you.” But it also sold out, almost immediately. And there was a big spike in sales of other Kylie Cosmetics merchandise, too.

这件事传了几天之后,卡戴珊的粉丝们注意到,凯莉化妆品网站上的乔丁唇膏套装已从27美元下调至13.50美元。客户对这款产品的评价也开始变得愤怒:“这个唇膏闻起来有背叛的味道”和“当心,抹了这个唇膏可能会让你恩将仇报”。与此同时它也在热卖,几乎是瞬间售罄。而其他凯莉化妆品的销量也大幅增长。

Khloé’s relationship problems and Kylie and Jordyn’s rift — like every other chapter in the life of this family that has come of age in public — promise to be drawn out in excruciating detail on the 16th season of “Keeping Up With the Kardashians,” which premieres Sunday on E!

克洛依的感情问题,以及凯莉和乔丁的失和——和这家人生活中的每一个章节一样呈现在了公众面前——有望在周日E!频道开播的第16季《与卡戴珊一家同行》(Keeping Up With the Kardashians)中一一道来。

On the phone the other day, Kylie told me she didn’t know that the Jordy had been discounted and that she called an employee as soon as she heard. She said it had been put on sale a couple weeks earlier as the company switched from white to black packaging. “That is just not my character. I would never do something like that and when I saw it, I was like, thrown back,” Kylie said. “Jordan knows I didn’t actually put it on sale.”

前几天在电话里,凯莉告诉我,她原本不知道乔丁在打折,一听到消息就给一名员工打电话了解情况。她说,几周前,公司把包装从白色换成了黑色,这款产品就已经在打折了。“这不是我的性格。我永远不会做这样的事情,当我看到的时候,我的反应是吓了一跳,”凯莉说。“乔丁知道我并没有甩卖它。”

Even so, l’affaire Jordy is emblematic of a well-established Kardashian ecosystem: Family turmoil feeds the celebrity news cycle, which drives interest in the TV show, which then helps to publicize an ever-increasing number of sponsorships and branded products.

即使如此,乔丁事件也是一个成熟的卡戴珊生态系统的象征:乱七八糟的家事维持了名人新闻周期,引发了人们对这档电视节目的兴趣,从而有助于宣传越来越多的赞助商和品牌产品。

In interviews, Kris Jenner, 63, the self-identified “momager,” and each of her five daughters — Kourtney, 39, Kim, 38, Khloé, 34, Kendall, 23, and Kylie, 21 — talked at length about the family business. It amounted to a master class in the art of monetizing influence.

在采访中,现年63岁、自称“星妈”的克丽丝·詹纳(Kris Jenner)和她的五个女儿——39岁的考特尼(Kourtney)、38岁的金(Kim)、34的克洛依、23岁的肯德尔(Kendal)和21岁的凯莉——详细谈论了这个家族企业。这相当于一门将影响力货币化的大师班课程。

Together they have transformed the way diet drinks, designer handbags, doomed music festivals and more (and more!) advertise, including through paid Instagram posts up to $1 million apiece. The sisters are dominating the sneaker industry with multimillion-dollar deals at Adidas and, before that, Puma and Nike (through Kim’s husband, Kanye West). Such is their power to move digital markets that Snapchat lost $1.3 billion in value after Kylie tweeted, “Sooo does anyone else not open Snapchat anymore? Or is it just me … ugh this is so sad.”

她们一起改变了减肥饮料、设计师手袋、注定要失败的音乐节和更多产品的广告方式,包括她们的Instagram账号付费发帖,一条费用可达100万美元。通过和阿迪达斯的巨额代言合同,以及之前跟彪马和耐克的合同(后者是通过金的丈夫坎耶·韦斯特[Kanye West]),她们主宰了运动鞋产业。她们改变数字市场的力量大到惊人,在凯莉发推“其他人是不是不用Snapchat了?还是只有我在用……呃,这太伤心了”后,Snapchat的市值蒸发了13亿美元。

Even if you’ve never seen a single episode of their show, chances are that you’ve bought a Kardashian-fronted or -backed something (Pepsi? Calvin Klein? Proactiv?). The sisters are a media company if it swallowed a makeup conglomerate, mated with a fashion line and birthed athleisure babies. (Their only brother, Rob, 32, has even backed a few ventures, including a line of novelty socks.)

即便她们的节目你一集也没看过,你也很有可能买过一个有卡戴珊代言或投资的东西(百事?Calvin Klein?Proactiv?)。她们几姐妹是一间媒体公司,如果说它吞下了一个化妆品集团,与时装品牌交配,生下了运动休闲宝宝的话。(他们唯一的哥哥、32岁的鲍勃[Bob]甚至投资了几家企业,包括某新奇袜子品牌。)

In 2007, Kris pitched producer Ryan Seacrest a reality TV series that would follow her three high-maintenance oldest daughters, Kourtney, Kim and Khloé, as they clawed their way to A-list from D-list.

2007年,克丽丝向制片人瑞安·西克雷斯特(Ryan Seacrest)力荐一部系列真人秀。该剧将跟拍她的三个很难伺候的大小姐:考特尼、金和克洛依,在此期间她们从四线明星爬到了一线。

“She said, ‘We will be vulnerable at all points of impact no matter what presents itself and that struck me,’” Seacrest said. His production company was so fledgling that he had to send an employee to Best Buy to buy a video camera to record a Kardashian pool party that became part of the sizzle reel to pitch E! The cable channel initially passed, but Seacrest convinced executives.

“她说,‘无论发生什么事,我们的方方面面都会被攻击,这让我产生了一个想法,’”西克雷斯特说。他的制片公司才刚开不久,以致于得派一名员工去百思买(Best Buy)买了台摄像机,用来记录卡戴珊的泳池派对,后来放进了一部向E!推销这个创意用的劲爆影片。这个有线电视频道起初放弃了,但西克雷斯特说服了高管。

At the time, the family wasn’t well known but Kim was friends with Paris Hilton, at least, and had a sex tape. Kris billed the show as a “modern-day ‘Brady Bunch.’” (That is, if Jan had a sex tape). Kylie and Kendall, now idols to a younger fan base, were just 9 and 11 when the show started. “Kylie and I for a really long time wanted no part of it, we just wanted to go to our rooms and iChat with our friends,” Kendall said.

当时,这个家族并不为人所知,但金至少和帕里丝·希尔顿(Paris Hilton)是好友,并且有性爱录像。克丽丝将该节目宣传为“现代版的《布雷迪家庭》(Brady Bunch)”。(如果简[Jan]有过性爱录像带的话)。如今拥有年少一带粉丝基础的凯莉和肯德尔在节目开播时分别只有9岁和11岁。“凯莉和我在相当长时间里不想参与其中,我们只想回房间,和朋友用iChat聊天,”肯德尔说。

The grandchildren are characters on the show, paparazzi targets, stars of their parents’ social media streams and cherished by fans in the 160 countries who have watched them grow up. “Everybody always says how I pulled Mason out of me!” Kourtney said. “Even if fans see Mason, they say I can’t believe it was that long ago.” Well after Kim has aged out of tube tops, it seems this “Truman Show” of the 1 percent will live on.

孙辈是节目秀的角色、狗仔队的跟拍目标、父母社交媒体流的明星,受到看她们长大的160个国家粉丝的喜爱。“每个人总说我是怎么把梅森拽出来的!”考特尼说。“即便粉丝看到梅森,他们也说我无法相信那是那么久之前的事了。”随着金成长到抛弃围胸的年龄,这种百分之一群体的《楚门的世界》(Truman Show)看来会继续演下去。

And an expanding menu of Kardashians offers something for everyone. Is body positivity your thing? Try Khloé’s Good American jeans. (“I never knew I was considered chubby until I became famous,” Khloé told me.) Want “working mom” lifestyle products? On Tuesday, Kourtney will debut Poosh, a beauty and wellness line named after her daughter, Penelope. Or perhaps you’re into oversize camouflage jackets and wedge booties? Kendall + Kylie is there for you.

卡戴珊姐妹的菜单不断扩充,为每个人都提供了些东西。你是身体自爱人士吗?试试克洛依的Good American牛仔吧。(“我直到成名后才知道我被认为是胖子,”克洛依告诉我说。)想要“职场妈妈”生活方式产品吗?周二,考特尼将首发Poosh——用她女儿佩妮洛普(Penelope)命名的美容与健康系列。或者也许你爱穿超大款迷彩夹克和楔形靴子?Kendall + Kylie随时恭候。

Most of these labels are sold almost exclusively online and with virtually no marketing budget, thanks to the women’s massive presence on social media. In the first five minutes of Kim introducing her KKW Beauty line in 2017, she sold an estimated $14.4 million worth of product (or about 300,000 items). Last year, Kendall, who has become the world’s highest-paid model, made $26.5 million for just 53 sponsored Instagram posts, according to Captiv8, a marketing firm that connects brands to influencers. Kylie was 15 when Kris took her to trademark her idea to sell matching lip gloss and liner together. In March, Forbes named Kylie the youngest “self-made billionaire ever,” causing heated debate about the definition of self-made. “I can’t say I’ve done it by myself,” Kylie told me, driving to an airport in Los Angeles. “If they’re just talking finances, technically, yes, I don’t have any inherited money. But I have had a lot of help and a huge platform.”

由于这几位女人在社交媒体上的巨大影响力,这些品牌大多几乎只在线销售,基本无营销预算。2017年,金推出她的KKW Beauty系列,最初五分钟之内便售出了估计价值1440万美元的产品(约有30万件)。据帮品牌与网红牵线的营销公司Captiv8的数据,去年,已成为世界上薪资最高模特的肯德尔仅凭53条Instagram的赞助帖,便入账2650万美元。凯莉15岁时,克丽丝便用她来实践自己的同色系唇蜜和眼线搭配销售的想法。3月份,《福布斯》杂志(Forbes)称凯莉是史上最年轻的“白手起家亿万富豪”,引发了对于“白手起家”定义的激烈争论。“我不能说我是靠自己做的,”凯莉在开车前往洛杉矶某机场的路上告诉我。“如果他们只是在说资金,严格来说是的,我没有任何继承的钱。但我得到了相当多帮助,还有很大的平台。”

Still, people tend to talk dismissively about the Kardashians as “famous for being famous,” rather than as entrepreneurs with an influence and reach perhaps second only to the reality TV star in the Oval Office. Maybe that’s because they are so unabashedly materialistic (Khloé recently posted an Instagram photo of her 10-month-old daughter, True, in a $160,000 pile of multicolored Birkin bags). Or maybe it’s because they are empowered women who also care deeply about achieving the perfect smoky eye?

但人们仍倾向于不屑一顾地以“因为出名而出名”的论调来谈论卡戴珊姐妹,而非影响力和触及面可能仅次于椭圆形办公室里那位真人秀明星的企业家。或许这是因为她们毫不掩饰自己的物质主义(克洛依最近在Instagram上发了张她十个月大女儿“楚”(True)的照片,周围是一堆价值16万美元的各色柏金包)。又或许是因为她们是赋权女性,但同样很在意画出完美烟熏妆?

In her living room, she said, there’s a “mood board” that she and Kanye constantly work on: a collection of looks they like, or tweaks they want to make to Kim’s cosmetic, fragrance and accessory lines. She can’t be everywhere, alas. So across the globe in Tel Aviv, a perfect replica of Kim’s face — the almond eyes with the ample false lashes, the cheekbones with the heavy contouring — was sitting in the offices of the eyewear designer Carolina Lemke.

在自己的起居室里,金说,她和坎耶一直在做一种“情绪板”:那是一些他们喜欢的造型,或他们想给金的化妆、香氛和饰品系列做出的改进。可惜,她总不能同时出现在所有地方。于是在地球另一端的特拉维夫,金的面孔的完美复制品——大杏仁眼上繁茂的假睫毛,面颊有浓重的轮廓线——就端坐在眼镜设计师卡罗莱娜·莱姆克(Carolina Lemke)的办公室里。

In April, Carolina Lemke will introduce a Kim Kardashian West sunglass collection, its first in the United States. The shades, black and bulky, some dotted with rhinestones, have already made several cameos on Kim’s Instagram feed. The idea for them came through her friend Bar Refaeli, the Israeli supermodel. “She showed me the commercial she’d shot for them and I thought it was so cute and well done, and she said ‘We should launch in the U.S. and you should do it here!’” Kim said.

今年4月,卡罗莱娜·莱姆克将推出金·卡戴珊·韦斯特太阳镜系列,这是品牌在美国推出的第一个系列。这些硕大的黑色墨镜有一些点缀着水钻,已经在金的Instagram上出现了几次。她的朋友、以色列超模芭儿·拉法莉(Bar Refaeli)想出了这个主意。“她给我看了她给他们拍的一些广告,我觉得很可爱,做得很好,她说‘我们应该在美国推出,你应该到这里做!’”金说。

Kim emphasized that she didn’t just put her name on these projects. She designed the glasses, got deep into the manufacturing process and dictated what the packaging would look like (and then dictated it again after Kanye weighed in). “It wasn’t like ‘Hey, will you give an endorsement and step into our world,’” Kim said. “It was like, ‘What do you want this to be?’”

金强调,她不仅仅是给这些项目冠名。她设计了这款墨镜,深入到生产过程中,就包装的样子发出指示(然后在坎耶发表意见之后又说了一遍)。“这并不是像,‘嘿,你能不能给我们做一个背书,然后走进我们的世界,’”金说。“而是,‘你希望这是个什么东西?’”

She said she’s just as involved with KKW Beauty, KKW Fragrance and the mobile game Kim Kardashian: Hollywood, consistently one of the most downloaded games. “If I changed my hair, I’ll let them know — ‘Hey guys, dye my hair right now’ or ‘Make a character with pink hair,’” she said of her frequent talks with the app developers.

她说,她参与了KKW美妆、KKW香水以及下载量极高的手机游戏“金·卡戴珊:好莱坞”(Kim Kardashian: Hollywood)。“如果我换了发型,我会让他们知道——‘嘿大家,我要染个头发’或者‘做个粉色头发的角色’,”她在和自己的应用开发者频繁的交流中说。

Making a brand so dependent on personal appeal means if fans are disappointed, sales can decline. Early last year, when Kylie posted less on social media as she tried to hide her pregnancy, buzz around her brand quieted, analysts said.

品牌极度依赖个人魅力就意味着如果粉丝感到失望,销量可能会下降。分析人士说,去年年初,当凯莉试图隐藏怀孕的消息,并减少在社交媒体上的发帖量时,围绕她品牌的议论就平静下来。

“Yeah, a huge part of my business is on social media,” Kylie said. “But it’s important to take those personal moments.” Except for the camera crew?

“是的,我有很大一部分生意是在社交媒体上,”凯莉说。“但保留这些私人时间也是很重要的。”——除了被拍摄下来那些?

She laughed. “Besides national television, I like to keep it really private.”

她笑了。“除了上全国电视以外,我是非常注重隐私的。”

And yet Khloé and her sisters still post sponsored ads for HiSmile teeth whitening kits and Flat Tummy teas and appetite-suppressing lollipops. After one recent post by Khloé, in which she hawks medically dubious meal-replacement shakes wearing a pink bra and showing off chiseled abs, actress Jameela Jamil, a frequent Kardashian critic, fired off an angry comment.

然而克洛依和她的姐妹们仍然在发布HiSmile牙齿美白套装、Flat Tummy减肥茶和抑制食欲的棒棒糖的赞助广告。克洛依最近发表了一篇帖子,照片上,她身穿粉色胸罩,炫耀着沟壑分明的腹肌,极力推销医学上效果可疑的代餐奶昔。之后,经常批评卡戴珊姐妹的演员贾米拉·贾米尔(Jameela Jamil)发表了愤怒的评论。

“If you’re too irresponsible to: a) own up to the fact that you have a personal trainer, nutritionist, probable chef and a surgeon to achieve your aesthetic, rather than this laxative product … And b) tell them the side effects,” she wrote, listing the side effects, “then I guess I have to."

“如果你太不负责任,无法做到:1)承认如下事实:你是靠私人教练、营养师、可能还有厨师和手术师来实现你的美颜,而不是靠这个泻药产品……并且,2)把副作用告诉人们,那就让我来做,”之后她列出了这种产品的副作用。

Kris is sanguine about such criticism. “I don’t live in that negative energy space,” she said “Ninety percent of people will be really excited about the family and the journey and who we are.” Khloé, fresh from a workout, said that she’s never had a chef and that she posts all of her personal training sessions on Snapchat, well aware that not everyone can afford such a luxury. “Well, listen, I am showing you what to do, silly person, 15 repetitions, three times, here’s the move …” she explained.

克丽丝对这类批评持乐观态度。“我不活在那个负能量空间,”她说“90%的人会很期待认识这一家人、我们的旅程以及我们是谁。”刚健完身的克洛依说,她从没有过厨师,她把所有个人锻炼环节都发到Snapchat上,她很清楚不是每个人都能负担得起这样的奢侈。“好了,听着,我就要向你展示该怎么做,傻瓜,重复15次,三组,动作是这样的……”她解释道。

Kim defended her family’s product endorsements. Teeth whitening? “I don’t have veneers. People really think that!” Waist trainers? “I got them for my friends after they had babies!” Kendall’s Proactiv deal, widely mocked after Kris teased it on Twitter as a “brave and vulnerable” move? “She never thought she’d ever be able to be a model because of her acne,” Kim said.

金为家人的产品代言做了辩护。牙齿美白?“我没有牙齿贴片。人们真会那么以为!”束腰带?“我会送给刚生小孩的朋友的!”肯德尔的Proactiv代言,在克丽丝发推宣传说是“勇敢和脆弱”之举后受到广泛嘲笑?“因为她的痘痘,她从没想过自己能当模特,”金说。

Kim also said she turns down more offers than she accepts. When a fast fashion line offered her $1 million for a single Instagram post, Kanye urged her not to do it, saying, “These companies knock off my stuff.” So Kim turned it down. As a thank you, on Mother’s Day, Kanye gave her $1 million himself. “He wrote me a check for that amount and said ‘Thank you so much for always being supportive and not posting,’” she said.

金还说她拒绝的邀约多过接受的。当某快消服装品牌出价1百万美元要她只发一条Instagram帖子时,坎耶劝她别做,说,“这些公司会抄袭我的东西。”金于是拒绝。作为感谢,母亲节那天坎耶给了她100万美元。“他开了张写着那个数的支票给我,说‘非常感谢你总是支持我,没有发帖,’”她说。

And yet, despite such missteps, you have to admire that Kris and Kim leveraged a sex tape that could’ve been a scarlet letter into entertainment gold and a platform so powerful that Kim has visited the White House and made an impact on criminal justice reform, including convincing President Donald Trump to commute the sentence of Alice Marie Johnson, a 63-year-old sentenced to life for a nonviolent drug offense.

不过,虽有这些小差错,你得佩服克丽丝和金把本可成为耻辱红字的性爱录像带变成了娱乐黄金,形成了一个足够强大的平台,让金得以造访白宫并对刑事司法改革产生了影响,包括说服唐纳德·特朗普总统对因非暴力毒品犯罪被判终生监禁的63岁的爱丽丝·玛丽·约翰逊(Alice Marie Johnson)减刑。

I asked Kim if she’d consider running for office.

我问金她是否考虑过竞选公职。

“No, I don’t think so,” she said. “It would be probably the most stressful job in the world, and I don’t think that’s for me.”

“不,我不这么想,”她说。“那很可能会成为世界上压力最大的工作,我觉得那不适合我。”

Ask enough people how they feel about the Kardashians, and you start to realize that their answers aren’t really about the Kardashians, but about what their lifestyle (or at least the lifestyle they’ve curated on Instagram) says about selfie culture and our own changing aspirations. If previous generations compared themselves to their neighbors, lusting after the slightly nicer house, the sports car, the renovated kitchen, with the advent of social media, “we started to spend more time with people we see on TV and social media than our actual neighbors,” said Lauren Greenfield, a photographer whose documentary “Generation Wealth” chronicles the rise of consumer culture. (She first photographed Kim when she was 12.)

多问问人们对卡戴珊姐妹的看法,你就会开始意识到他们的回答并不真的关乎卡戴珊姐妹,而是关乎她们的生活方式(或者至少她们在Instagram上策划的生活方式)对自拍文化以及我们不断变化的渴望意味着什么。若说前几代人把他们自己同邻居相比较,渴望比对方稍好一些的房子、跑车、翻新的厨房,那么随着社交媒体的出现,“我们开始花更多时间关注我们在电视和社交媒体上看到的人,而不是真的邻居,”摄影师劳伦·格林菲尔德(Lauren Greenfield)说,她的纪录片《财富一代》(Generation Wealth)记录了消费文化的兴起。(金第一次由她来拍摄照片时才12岁。)

In other words, keeping up with the Joneses has become keeping up with the Kardashians.

换言之,与邻居攀比已变成了与卡戴珊一家同行。

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