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36小时玩转巴黎塞纳河畔

更新时间:2018-9-13 19:42:07 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Paris: On the Seine
36小时玩转巴黎塞纳河畔

Paris owes its life to the Seine. The city was born on one of its islands — the Île de la Cité — and today the celebrated river flows under 37 bridges as its makes its eight-mile arc through the City of Light. Along the stony banks, which together are designated a Unesco World Heritage Site, every facet of the French capital looks out and beckons.

塞纳河是巴黎的生命之河。这座城市诞生于塞纳河上的岛屿之一西岱岛(Île de la Cité)。今天,这条著名的河流在光之城内划出一道8英里的弧线,途中有37座桥。沿着被联合国教科文组织指定为世界文化遗产的石砌河堤,法国首都的每一面都在向外眺望、招手。

History and architecture? From the medieval towers of Notre Dame to the 19th-century iron lattices of the Eiffel Tower, the riverside offers a stunning survey, complemented by postmodern structures like the Institut du Monde Arabe. Art and design? In the shadows of the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay, a host of less-famous museums also contain world-class troves. Food and festivities? A gastronomic trail and pulsating party barges assure satisfaction for Epicureans and hedonists. Even some green spaces — the Tuileries gardens, the Jardin des Plantes — unfold amid the urban crush. And getting around is a cinch. Take the riverside 72 bus or the waterborne Batobus — or just walk. The thoroughfares along the river have been mostly closed to traffic and reborn as lively pedestrian promenades.

历史和建筑?从圣母院的中世纪尖塔到埃菲尔塔的19世纪铁格,加上阿拉伯文化博物馆(Institut du Monde Arabe)这样的后现代建筑,河边的景色令人叹为观止。艺术和设计?卢浮宫和奥赛博物馆的阴影之下,许多博物馆没那么出名,但一样拥有世界级的藏品。餐食与节庆?一条美食路线,以及欢腾的派对驳船,保证让伊壁鸠鲁派和享乐主义者满意。在拥挤的城市中竟然也有绿地——杜乐丽花园(Tuileries)和植物园(Jardin des Plantes)。交通非常便利。你可以乘坐河边72路公交车,或水上巴士,也可步行。沿河的大道大部分不能行车,已经改造成热闹的步行街。

36 Hours in Paris: On the Seine

巴黎36小时:塞纳河上

Friday

周五

1) 5 p.m. TAKE FLIGHT

1)下午5点,起飞。

A knockout view over Paris doesn’t have to involve intolerable lines, exorbitant ticket sums or visiting the Eiffel Tower. The Ballon de Paris is a tethered helium balloon (adults, 12 euros, or about $14) that elevates you 450 feet above the modernist Parc André Citroën, affording a commanding perspective on the city’s celebrated boulevards and monuments — including Gustave Eiffel’s nearby namesake tower. Return to Earth next door with a sundowner cocktail or glass of wine (5 euros) at La Javelle, a carnivalesque Seine-side sprawl of food trucks, concert stages and open-air bars — including a moored party barge — interspersed with garlands of colored lights and thrift-store furniture.

一赏巴黎的迷人景色不一定要忍受排队、付高昂的票价或者参观埃菲尔铁塔。巴黎气球(Ballon de Paris)是一个系绳的氦气球(成人票价12欧元),能带你到现代主义的雪铁龙公园(Parc André Citroën)上空450英尺,让你俯瞰这座城市著名的林荫大道和纪念建筑——古斯塔夫·埃菲尔设计的那座以他的名字命名的塔也在附近。回到地面,在隔壁的La Javelle喝一杯“暮后小酌”鸡尾酒或红酒(5欧元),那是沿塞纳河的一连串狂欢节式的大排档,也有音乐会舞台和露天酒吧——包括一艘靠岸的驳船——散布着一圈圈的彩灯和来自旧货店的家具。

2) 7:30 p.m. FRENCH FREQUENCIES

2)晚上7点半,法国频率。

From the cod in the “Thai broth” appetizer to the tapioca dessert with coconut milk, a tropical breeze blows through the kitchen of RadioEat, which also serves a dish that features a banana leaf bursting with dense boneless chicken nuggets braised in caramel sauce and a lush tiramisù with blood orange with toasted pistachio nuts. (Other worthy concoctions include crunchy asparagus in a zesty, white sauce of Gorgonzola cheese and a thick, flavorful tuna steak atop smoky chargrilled leeks.) The tall windows overlooking the Seine and Bir Hakeim bridge (recognizable to fans of the film “Last Tango in Paris”) satisfy any hunger for views, while concerts in the building’s auditorium and studios help slake your thirst for live music. A three-course dinner for two costs around 100 euros.

从开胃菜“泰式肉汤”中的鳕鱼,到放了椰奶的木薯甜点,热带的微风吹进RadioEat的厨房。这家餐厅还有一道焦糖酱炖香蕉叶和肉质紧致的去骨鸡块,还有配血橙和烤开心果的豪华版提拉米苏。(其他值得尝试的搭配包括淋有风味十足的白色高根左拉奶酪酱汁的松脆芦笋,以及盖在烟熏味的炭烤韭葱上的一大块美味的金枪鱼排。)俯瞰塞纳河和比尔哈凯姆桥(Bir Hakeim)的高窗(电影《巴黎最后的探戈》的粉丝们都能认出)则能满足对风景的渴望。而这栋楼里的礼堂和演播室里举行的音乐会则能帮你缓解对于现场音乐的渴望。两个人、三道菜的晚餐大约100欧元。

3) 9:30 p.m. A NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM

3)晚上9:30,博物馆之夜。

Like a fun house for cultivated grown-ups, the Palais de Tokyo is full of wonder and diversion. Aesthetes and bibliophiles can chase their pleasures until midnight in exhibition halls brimming with contemporary art exhibitions (admission, 12 euros) and a bookstore packed with tomes and magazines devoted to art, design, architecture, fashion and much besides. Drinks can be enjoyed in the fashionable Monsieur Bleu restaurant or Les Grands Verres, a vast industrial-chic restaurant-bar that moves outside into the colonnaded courtyard in warm weather. The more playful creations include Frozaaay (a slushy blend of rosé wine and watermelon juice; 12 euros) and the One Night in Paris cocktail (gin, grapefruit liqueur, sparkling wine, hibiscus; 12 euros). If you want to add D.J.s and throbbing music to the mix, finish with a decadent splash in the Yoyo nightclub.

就像一个为有修养的成年人开设的的游乐场所,东京宫(Palais de Tokyo)充满了惊奇和消遣。爱美爱书之人可以在这里尽情追逐自己的乐趣,直到午夜——展厅里满是当代艺术展(门票12欧元),书店里摆满了艺术、设计、建筑、时尚等方面的书籍和杂志。想要享受酒水的话,可以去时尚的Monsieur Bleu餐厅或Les Grands Verres。Les Grands Verres是一家大型的工业风格餐厅,天气暖和时,它会搬到外面有柱廊的院子里。这家餐厅有一些有趣的创造,包括Frozaaay(浪漫而伤感的玫瑰酒和西瓜汁的混合饮品;12欧元)和“巴黎一夜”(One Night in Paris)鸡尾酒(杜松子酒、葡萄柚利口酒、起泡酒、芙蓉花;12欧元)。如果你还想感受DJ和悸动的音乐,去Yoyo夜店放纵一番,作为这一晚的结束。

Saturday

周六

4) 10 a.m. PALACE INTRIGUE

4)上午10点,宫廷阴谋。

Gratuit, which means “free,” is a word seldom heard in pricey Paris — until you enter the neo-Classical Petit Palais. Built for the Universal Exposition of 1900, the museum houses a wide-ranging (and free) collection of European art, from Grecian urns to Flemish religious scenes. Gustave and Gustave (Doré and Moreau) make impressive cameos — the former with a shimmering painting of the ascension of Christ, the latter with a dark, apocalyptic landscape called “Arion” — as does the gloppy glory of the Impressionists, including Seine views by Monet and Camille Pissarro. Splashes of Post-Impressionism (Cézanne nature scenes), Romanticism (dark landscapes from Gericault) and sculpture (a disfigured torso by Rodin) round out the mix.

“Gratuit”是免费的意思,在昂贵的巴黎是很少见的——除非你走进新古典主义风格的巴黎小皇宫(Petit Palais)。该博物馆为1900年的世界博览会(Universal Exposition)而建,收藏了大量(且免费)的欧洲艺术品,从希腊古瓮到佛兰德的宗教场景。两位古斯塔夫——古斯塔夫·多雷(Gustave Doré)和古斯塔夫·莫罗(Gustave Moreau)给人以深刻的印象。前者在一副闪光的画作中描绘了基督升天,后者名为《阿里翁》的画作则描绘着黑暗、末日风格的风景。令人印象深刻的还有画风黏糊糊的印象派画家,其中包括莫奈和卡米尔·皮萨罗画的塞纳河景。一些后印象派作品(塞尚的自然景观)、浪漫主义作品(席里柯的阴暗风景)和雕塑(罗丹残缺的躯干)则完善了展览中不同风格的搭配。

5) 1 p.m. FOOD OF THE GODS

5)下午1点,神之食物。

You can finally sport your Roman toga or Egyptian ankh at Minipalais, where arches, columns, classical statues and mosaics of Pharaonic scenes decorate the vast outdoor terrace. Niched in the Grand Palais — an even more expansive exhibition space built for the 1900 Universal Exposition — the restaurant offers a Continental journey via dishes like gazpacho, grilled octopus and penne with chorizo. To move from surf to turf, the salmon appetizer is smoked and lightly cooked for a delicate roasted flavor — enlivened by egg mousseline — before a well-browned chicken breast arrives on fat white asparagus and topped by a tissue-thin slice of white Italian lardo. Lunch for two costs around 100 euros.

在Minipalais,你终于可以穿上罗马长袍或戴上埃及十字章了。在这里,拱门、圆柱、古典雕像和法老场景的马赛克装饰着巨大的室外露台。大皇宫(Grand Palais)是一个更广阔的展览空间,为1900年的世界博览会而建造。这里有一个专门的餐厅,通过西班牙凉菜汤、烤章鱼和西班牙香肠通心粉这样的菜肴令顾客体验“欧洲大陆之旅”。从海边移到草地,三文鱼开胃菜烟熏过,只是稍加烹制,呈现一种精致的烤制风味——用摩士达荷兰汁提起生气——然后是盖在肥美的白芦笋上面、表面金黄色恰到好处的鸡胸肉,上面还撒了薄薄的一层意大利猪油。两个人的午餐大约100欧元。

6) 3 p.m. AESTHETIC POWERHOUSE

6)下午3点:审美重地

With massive, famous museums like the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay almost next door, the smaller and more discreet Musée de l’Orangerie risks being overlooked. What it lacks in size, however, the 19th-century former greenhouse makes up for in concentrated artistic power. The marquee attractions are Monet’s waterlily paintings, but the collection of Post-Impressionism is staggering. Heavyweights like Henri Rousseau, André Derain and Maurice Utrillo have rooms of their own, while several super-heavyweights are represented by multiple canvases: Modigliani’s narrow female portrait sitters; Matisse’s lounging Orientalist odalisques; and Picasso’s brooding, dark nudes. Admission, 9 euros.

卢浮宫和奥赛博物馆等著名大型博物馆几乎就在隔壁,规模较小且更加低调的橘园美术馆(Muséedel'Orangerie)可能会被忽视。它原本是一座19世纪的温室,在规模方面的欠缺被其密集的艺术力量所弥补。它的招牌展品是莫奈的睡莲画,但是后印象派的藏品也很惊人。比如亨利·卢梭(Henri Rousseau)、安德烈·德朗(André Derain)和莫里斯·郁特里罗(Maurice Utrillo)这样的重量级人物都有自己的展室,而几个超级重量级人物则有多幅画作:莫迪格利阿尼的削瘦女性肖像;马蒂斯懒散的东方主义风格;以及毕加索深沉、阴暗的裸体画。入场费:9欧元。

7) 5 p.m. ORCHIDS AND ICE CREAM

7)下午5点:兰花和冰淇淋

The Seine’s prime shopping trail leads past the stalls of the bouquinistes — vintage book sellers — and through the history-rich islands, Île de la Cité and Île St.-Louis. You can create your own Louvre at La Reine Margot, a museum-like shop selling art and objects from Classical Greece, ancient Egypt, the Roman Empire and beyond — as well as archaeological-cool jewelry by contemporary creators. Then you can create your own garden at the Marché aux Fleurs. Operating since 1830, the market is a horticultural haven of rare orchids, sculptural cactuses, floral soaps, fruit jams and much besides. Finally, cross Pont St.-Louis bridge and meander through the fashionable streets (Charles Baudelaire and the Rothschilds are former residents) to Upper Concept Store, a cafe-boutique devoted to independent international designers. The long line down the street is for Berthillon, the city’s most beloved ice-cream parlor.

塞纳河的主要购物路线经过古董书商们的摊位,还有那些历史悠久的岛屿:西堤岛和圣路易岛。你可以在“玛戈皇后”(La Reine Margot)创建自己的卢浮宫,它是一个博物馆般的商店,出售古希腊、古埃及、罗马帝国乃至其他地区的艺术品和物品——以及当代创作者的仿古酷炫珠宝。然后你可以到巴黎花鸟集市(Marché aux Fleurs)创建自己的花园。巴黎花鸟集市自1830年开始营业,是一个稀有兰花、雕塑仙人掌、花香皂、果酱等物品的园艺圣地。最后,穿过圣路易桥,走过时尚的街道(夏尔·波德莱尔和罗斯柴尔德家族曾经在这里居住),来到“上层概念店”(Upper Concept Store),这是一家出售国际独立设计师作品的咖啡精品店。这条街上排队最长的店是Berthillon,它是巴黎最受欢迎的冰淇淋店。

8) 8 p.m. SHELLS AND SCALES

8)晚上8点:海鲜

Eating fish from the Seine is discouraged. Eating fish alongside the Seine, however, is a must, thanks to Le Vent d’Armor, which opened in 2016. A hideaway of fine-tuned seafood dishes, the tiny restaurant is helmed by Nicolas Tribet, a former cook in France’s presidential palace. The understated, elegant décor provides a nonintrusive backdrop for the menu, whose starters might include razor clams in butter or a deep-fried soft-shell crab with a creamy wasabi emulsion. Main courses might feature bass in a cumin-lemon “tagine” sauce or langoustine meat bathed in a creamy concoction of shell broth, butter and truffle slices — a sublime meeting of sea, dairy and forest. A three-course dinner for two costs about 120 euros.

直接从塞纳河捕鱼吃是不允许的。然而,由于2016年开业的Le Vent d'Armour ,在塞纳河畔吃鱼成了必不可少之事。这家小餐馆由法国总统府的前厨师尼古拉·特里贝(Nicolas Tribet)领衔,提供精致的海鲜菜肴。低调而优雅的装饰为用餐提供了一个不受干扰的背景,开胃菜可能有黄油大蛏子,或者蘸奶油芥末酱的油炸软壳蟹。主菜可能包括孜然柠檬“塔吉”酱蘸鲈鱼,或是浸在用贝壳汤、黄油和松露片制成的奶油状混合物中的海螯虾肉——这是海味、乳品和山珍的精美融合。三道菜的两人晚餐约120欧元。

9) 10 p.m. FIND YOUR (PÉ)NICHE

9)晚上10点:寻找你的船上小天地

Another vocabulary lesson: péniche. It means barge, and in Paris it typically refers to a docked party boat where locals spend festive nights fueled by live music (sometimes) and chilled wine (de rigueur). Each has its distinctive music, crowd and view. Overlooking Île St.-Louis, Péniche Marcounet is a narrow, century-old vessel with neo-industrial touches and a roster of jazz bands. In warm weather, the bourgeois-bohemian crowds spill out onto makeshift packing-crate benches along the quay and order pitchers of chardonnay (12 euros). Next door, a more professional clientele fills the refined blonde-wood interior and outdoor couches of Les Maquereaux. Variations on the Moscow Mule and gin-and-tonic are the specialties, including a cognac and tonic (11 euros).

再学一个词:péniche。它是驳船的意思,而在巴黎,它通常指的是一艘停在岸边的派对船,当地人在那里度过有现场音乐(有时)和(最流行的)冰镇葡萄酒助兴的节日夜晚。每条船都有自己独特的音乐、人群和景象。Péniche Marcounet是一艘狭长的船,可以一览圣路易岛全貌,它拥有百年历史,有着新工业装饰风格,有不少爵士乐队现场演出。在温暖的天气里,波西米亚的小资们走出来,沿着码头坐在包装箱充当的长凳上,再喝几杯霞多丽(12欧元)。隔壁的Les Maquereaux拥有精致的金色木质内饰和户外沙发,招待偏白领的客户群体,其特色是莫斯科骡子鸡尾酒(Moscow Mule)与杜松子酒兑奎宁水的各种变种,包括科尼亚克白兰地兑奎宁(11欧元)。

Sunday

周日

10) 10 a.m. SUNDAY IN THE PARK

10)周日上午10点:在公园

Urban Paris falls away in the Jardin des Plantes, a venerable reserve of lawns, tall trees, flower beds and stately old buildings. Joggers, picnickers and more exotic species abound, including some 170 in the zoo — purportedly the second-oldest in the world — around 900 in the “bee houses,” and hundreds, perhaps thousands, more in the large greenhouses. Built on a cathedral scale, the most impressive one enfolds a misty, dense junglelike world where paths lead among all manner of African, Asian and South American specimens — including banana trees, teak trees, spice plants and hanging vines — as well as water pools and ersatz caves. Greenhouse admission, 7 euros.

巴黎市区的景色在巴黎植物园(Jardin des Plantes)中消失了,这里是一片古老的草坪,有着高大的树木、花坛和庄严的古老建筑。慢跑者、野餐者,以及诸多外来物种比比皆是,其中包括动物园里的约170种动物——据称它是世界上第二大动物园——在“蜂房”中大约有900种蜜蜂,在大型温室中有数百乃至数千种植物。最震撼的温室有大教堂般的规模,让人们仿佛置身一个朦胧、茂密的丛林世界,其中的道路指引你走向各种非洲、亚洲和南美物种——有香蕉树、柚树、香料植物和悬挂的藤蔓——以及水池和人工洞穴。温室门票:7欧元。

11) Noon PARIS, PIXELATED

11)中午:像素化的巴黎

For your last glance at the French capital, soar above the city — virtually, this time — at Pavillon de l’Arsenal. Dedicated to Paris architecture and urbanization, the exhibition space features an interactive 400-square-foot digital map of Paris from above (created with Google Earth technology) that captures every street and structure, allowing you to scroll, pan, rise and zoom around town with a touch of the master panel. Then travel through Paris history by walking the circumference of the ground floor, where illustrated timelines (enlivened by flat-screen displays and touch-screen panels) take you from the medieval period until today, with homage to the groundbreaking contributions of Le Corbusier and other architects. Better still, this institution is also free.

对法国首都的最后一瞥,在城市上空翱翔——事实上,是在巴黎军火库(Pavillon de l'Arsenal)。展览空间致力展现巴黎的建筑和城市化,展示了一个400平方英尺的互动式巴黎数字地图(使用Google Earth技术创建),捕捉每一条街道和每一栋建筑,让你可以轻触主面板,在城镇周围进行滚动、平移、上升和缩放的操作。然后在一楼转一圈,畅游巴黎历史,图示年表(平板显示屏和触摸屏板块令其更加生动)带你从中世纪时期一直回到今天,并且提到了勒·柯布西耶和其他建筑师的突破性贡献。更好的是,这里也是免费的。

Lodgings

住宿

The architect-designer Ora Ito and the artist Daniel Buren collaborated on the 106-room Yooma Urban Lodge (51 Quai de Grenelle, 33-1-44-09-00-13; in September, doubles from 114 euros), a colorful, retro-futuristic hotel that opened last year. In addition to a restaurant, bar and gym, the hotel provides many family-friendly bonuses, from six-person rooms to special baby washrooms and bottle warmers.

建筑师设计师奥拉·伊托(Ora Ito)和艺术家丹尼尔·博伦(Daniel Buren)合作开办了拥有106间客房的约玛都市旅馆(Yooma Urban Lodge,51 Quai de Grenelle;33-1-44-09-00-13;9月双人间114欧元),它在去年开业,是一家色彩缤纷的复古未来主义酒店。除了餐厅、酒吧和健身房外,酒店还提供许多适合全家入住的便利,从六人间到特殊婴儿洗手间和奶瓶加热器。

Moored next to the Cité de la Mode et du Design exhibition center (and night life haven), the streamlined and chic 58-room Off Paris Seine (86 Quai d’Austerlitz; 33-1-44-06-62-66; offparisseine.com; double rooms in September from 233 euros) is a floating hotel with a popular bar-restaurant.

巴黎塞纳河畔(Off Paris Seine,86 Quai d'Austerlitz;33-1-44-06-62-66; offparisseine.com;9月双人间233欧元起)坐落在巴黎时尚与设计之城(Cité de la Mode et du Design exhibition,这里也是夜生活的好去处)旁边,拥有别致的58间流线型客房。它是一家水上酒店,拥有一个受欢迎的酒吧餐厅。

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