您现在的位置: 纽约时报中英文网 >> 纽约时报中英文版 >> 文化 >> 正文

伦敦专供出租车司机用餐的神秘小屋

更新时间:2018-8-9 20:09:38 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

The secret green shelters that feed London's cabbies
伦敦专供出租车司机用餐的神秘小屋

“We’re a Victorian institution,” black-cab driver Henry announced proudly, tugging on his tartan cap. It was a grey mid-morning in London and I was squeezed in a small green shed behind a narrow, U-shaped table. Surrounding me were a cluster of taxi drivers who slurped on mugs of tea and shovelled in forkfuls of scrambled egg and sausage.

"我们是维多利亚时代建立的组织。"黑色出租车司机亨利骄傲地说,边说边拉了拉他的格子帽。早上十点左右的伦敦,天色有些阴沉,我挤进了一间小绿屋,坐在狭窄的U形桌后面。我旁边是一群出租车司机,正咂着嘴用马克杯喝茶,大口大口地吃着炒蛋和香肠。

This diminutive shed in Russell Square is where the keepers of London’s secrets gather – the black-cab drivers whose minds are mapped with every inch of the city. It’s one of 13 cabmen’s shelters remaining in the capital, and only licensed drivers who have passed The Knowledge test – memorising every street, landmark and route in London – are allowed inside.

罗素广场的小绿屋是黑色出租车司机的聚集地,司机们保守了这座城市的秘密,对这个城市的每一寸土地都烂熟于心。这是仅存的13个出租车司机休憩站之一,只有熟记伦敦的每个街道、地标和路线,通过了街道知识测试的持证出租车司机才能进入。

The idea for the shelters came in the late 19th Century when George Armstrong, a year before he became editor of The Globe newspaper, was unable to hail a taxi during a blizzard because the drivers, who then rode horse-drawn hansom cabs, were huddled in a nearby pub. He teamed up with philanthropists, including the Earl of Shaftesbury, to find a way to keep drivers on the straight and narrow – and off the drink.

19世纪末阿姆斯特朗(George Armstrong)最先有了设置休憩站的想法,他成为环球报纸编辑一年前,一次在暴风雪中打不到车,因为当时驾驶双轮双座马车的车夫都聚集在附近的酒吧里。他联合慈善家,包括沙夫茨伯里伯爵(Earl of Shaftesbury)一起,想找到办法让车夫行得正坐得端,远离饮酒。

The Cabmen’s Shelter Fund was born in 1875, building the first hut in St John’s Wood. It still operates today, though many of the further 60 huts built have since been knocked down.

出租车司机休憩站基金(The Cabmen's Shelter Fund)于1875年成立,第一座休憩站建在圣约翰伍德,至今仍在使用。但后来建的60多个休憩站有很多都被拆除了。

Each hut was built no bigger than a horse and cart, in line with Metropolitan Police rules because they stood on public highways. They provided shelter and sustenance for hackney-carriage (black-cab) drivers, with strict rules against swearing, gaming, gambling and drinking alcohol.

根据伦敦警察厅的规定,由于建在公共道路上,每个休憩站不能超过一架马车的大小。休憩站是出租马车(黑色出租车)司机休息和饮食的地方,严禁爆粗口、赌博和饮酒。

Then came World War I. Drivers and their vehicles were drafted, plunging the cab trade – and the shelters – into decline. “We lost people, cars and horses,” said Gary, one of the cabbies I chatted to at Russell Square.

一战期间,司机应征入伍、车马也被征用,出租车产业严重受挫,休憩站也日渐萧条。"车马人力都不够了。"和我在罗素广场闲聊的一位司机加里(Gary)说。

Unused, unloved and unprotected, the oak huts suffered rot and ruin. Some were destroyed by bombs during World War II, while many were later bulldozed in street-widening schemes.

无人使用、无人爱惜、无人保护,橡木小绿屋腐蚀毁坏。一些在二战期间被炸弹摧毁,一些后来因道路拓宽被推土机铲平。

Now just 13 remain, with 10 in operation. Each is Grade II listed, which means they are considered buildings of special interest and every effort should be made to preserve them. They are owned by the Worshipful Company of Hackney Carriage Drivers (WCHCD), a guild for those who earn their living through the trade. The Cabmen’s Shelter Fund is responsible for upkeep and maintenance, issuing annual licences to those who run them.

如今仅剩13个休憩站,10个仍在使用。个个都上了二级保护名单,被认定是受保护的历史文化建筑。休憩站隶属于出租马车司机同业工会(Worshipful Company of Hackney Carriage Drivers ),这个协会是为那些靠出租车讨生活的人成立的。休憩站基金负责休憩站的保护维修,每年给经营者们颁发营业执照。

“The cab trade is very lonely,” said Colin Evans, a cabbie of 44 years and trustee of the fund. “These are places where you can go and have a tea or coffee with your mates. If drivers don’t support them, they will be lost forever.”

埃文斯(Colin Evans)说:"开出租非常孤独"。他已经开了44年出租,也是休憩站基金的托管人。"可以和哥们儿去那里喝杯茶或咖啡,要是司机们都不支持,休憩站可能要永远消失了。"

Gary, who often comes here for a tea and a grumble because “everyone’s in the same boat”, added: “I’ve been driving a cab for more than a few years and only recently started using the shelters. I decided, use them or lose them.”

加里经常来这里喝上一杯茶或是发发牢骚,因为"大家都是一条船上的人",他补充说,"我开出租已经开了许多年了,但最近才开始来休憩站。因为如果没人用,休憩站就没了。"

Most serve breakfast (sausages, eggs, bacon), sandwiches and hot drinks, with the occasional pie or lasagne cooked by the owners at home and reheated in the skinny kitchens. Non-cabbies aren’t allowed to sit inside – unless issued with a rare invitation – but can order through a window hatch.

休憩站供应早餐(香肠、鸡蛋和培根)、三明治和热饮,偶尔有面包派或千层面,店主在家里做好,再在休憩站狭小的厨房里加热一下。非出租车司机不能入内,除非是有特别邀请,但可以通过窗口点单。

“We bring in more money that way,” said Jude Holmes, who runs the kitchen at Russell Square. “I can serve hundreds of people while a driver sits with one cup of tea.”

"这样我们能挣多点钱,"福尔摩斯(Jude Holmes)说,她经营罗素广场的休憩站。"一位司机坐着喝杯茶的工夫,我能卖出几百份食物。"

As we sat there, a relentless drizzle outside drew more cabbies through the door, each greeting the others like family members.

外面淅淅沥沥下着蒙蒙雨,我们坐着聊天,越来越多的司机来了休憩站,每个人都像家人般互相问候。

“My little gang comes in every day,” Holmes said. “I worry a bit if I don’t see them. It’s like their second home. Sometimes they even make their own tea.” She added that newer drivers are often too intimidated to come inside, preferring to order bacon sandwiches at the window.

"兄弟们每天都来,"福尔摩斯说。"如果见不到他们我还会有点儿担心,这里就像他们的第二个家,有时候他们会自己沏茶喝。"她补充说,有些新司机不好意思进来,喜欢在窗口点培根三明治。

“It can feel a bit cliquey at times,” Gary admitted.

"有时候感觉有一些小帮派,"加里直言不讳。

The kettle bubbled, teaspoons clinked against china, and bacon spluttered and sizzled in a pan as talk turned to the cabbies’ biggest bugbears. Being ‘bilked’, for example, when a fare runs off without paying. Struggling to find a public lavatory when on the job is another common groan (the shelters don’t have loos).

水壶里的水咕嘟咕嘟地沸腾着,茶匙碰到瓷器发出叮当脆响,平底锅上煎着的培根咝咝作响。司机们讨论着他们最头疼的事。被"坑",比如乘客没给钱就下车。开车时找不到公共卫生间也是他们经常发愁的事情(休憩站里没有卫生间)。

Most drivers have other gigs, as musicians, artists, TV producers, even actors. But, they told me, once a cabbie – always a cabbie. “If you retire, you die,” Gary deadpanned.

大多数司机有过其他工作,音乐家、艺术家、电视节目制作人甚至是演员。但是,他们告诉我,一日开出租,终生开出租。"到死才退休,"加里不动声色地说笑着。

The anecdotes poured faster than the tea. There’s the tale of ‘Fat Ray’, so huge he squeezes himself behind the wheel each morning and doesn’t budge until he gets home. “He couldn’t come in ’ere,” said Henry, sweeping his hand around the shelter. “He’d never fit through the door!”

讲的趣事比喝的茶要多。"肥仔雷"每天早上挤进方向盘后就一动不动,直到回家。"他可进不来",亨利边说边把手挥动了一圈。"这门他挤不进来!"

Evans took me for a spin in his cab, stopping by Temple Place shelter on Victoria Embankment, where a team was fixing damage caused by a lorry.

诶文斯载着我兜了一圈,在维多利亚堤岸的圣殿休憩站停了下来,一队人正在修葺被卡车撞坏的小屋。

The shelters’ Grade II status means restoration is intricate and expensive. Refurbishment costs around £30,000, Evans estimated, and replacement materials must match the originals. Even the shade of paint – Dulux Buckingham Paradise 1 Green – is prescribed to mirror the first huts.

二级保护建筑意味着维修十分复杂昂贵。埃文斯估计修缮差不多要花费3000英镑,替换的材料一定要和原来一模一样。甚至是油漆颜色——多乐士白金汉天堂1号绿(Dulux Buckingham Paradise 1 Green),也要和最早的休憩站分毫不差。

Shelters have also been hit by noise restrictions in residential areas, and none currently operate at night – most open around 07:00 and close by 13:00. A hut at Chelsea Embankment has been closed for five years due to parking restrictions, and the fund is considering donating it to the London Transport Museum.

休憩站受到居民区噪音标准的制约,夜里不能营业——大多数早上七点开门,下午一点关门。切尔西堤岸的休憩站由于停车管制已经关门五年了,基金考虑把那里的休憩站捐给伦敦交通博物馆。

Crucially, said Evans, these tiny huts must not disappear – nor should their history be forgotten. “It’s too easy to get rid of these things. The shelters are unique. They represent a moment in time.”

埃文斯说,最重要的是,这些小绿屋不能消失,他们的历史也不能被遗忘。"把休憩站丢掉太容易了。它们是独一无二的,代表了特定的历史时期。"

It’s true there’s plenty of history packed within their walls. Evans told me that the Gloucester Road shelter was nicknamed ‘The Kremlin’ because it was frequented by left-wing drivers. The since-bulldozed Piccadilly hut was the site of Champagne-fuelled parties in the 1920s and dubbed the ‘Junior Turf Club’ – after an exclusive gentlemen’s club nearby – by (non cab-driver) aristocratic revellers who smuggled in booze.

小绿屋的背后的确很多故事。埃文斯告诉我,由于左翼司机频繁光顾,格洛斯特路休憩站被戏称为"克里姆林宫",已经被铲平的皮卡迪利休憩站在二十世纪二十年代经常举办香槟派对,贵族们(并非出租车司机)私自带酒水来寻欢作乐,称为那里为"小赛马会"——以附近的私人男子俱乐部命名。

And according to local legend, a man claiming to be Jack the Ripper once visited Westbourne Grove shelter.

根据当地传言,声称是开膛手杰克的男子曾去过韦斯特格罗夫休憩站。

Physical signs of their history remain. Tenders attached to the bottom of the huts were where drivers tethered their horses before going inside. The animals drank from marble troughs, now gone. Each shelter still has a rooftop vent with ornate carvings – reminders of the wood-burning stoves once used for heating and cooking.

历史的痕迹清晰可见。休憩亭底部还保留有马车夫们拴马的桩子。动物饮水的大理石水槽已经没了。休憩亭屋顶保有精雕细刻的烟囱——纪念已经逝去的烧柴火炉取暖做饭的年代。

We continued onto Warwick Avenue shelter, frequented by musicians and actors who live nearby. British mod-rocker Paul Weller, former lead singer of The Jam and The Style Council, often comes to the hatch for a sausage-and-egg sandwich, licensee Tracy Tucker told me.

我们继续走向沃维克大道休憩亭,附近的音乐家和演员经常光顾这里。执业者塔克(Tracy Tucker)告诉我,英国摩德摇滚客,"果酱"乐队( The Jam)和"风采委员会"(The Style Council)的前主唱韦勒(Paul Weller)经常来这里买鸡蛋香肠三明治。

Tucker, whose husband is a cabbie, has been a shelter keeper for 14 years, moving to this location from Thurloe Place in 2016. The roof was recently re-shingled at a cost of £13,000, financed by the fund.

塔克的丈夫是一名出租车司机,她经营休憩亭已有14年,2016年从瑟洛坊搬到这里。最近基金出钱把休憩亭屋顶重修了一遍,花费了13000英镑。

Inside, the tiny kitchen has a stovetop sizzling with sausages and bacon, a fridge stocked with sandwich fillings and shelves heaving with cabbies’ mugs bearing the crests of their football teams. When someone’s team is relegated or loses a big match, Tucker ties a black ribbon to their mug’s handle in commiseration.

休憩亭里面,小厨房的炉子上滋滋地煎着香肠和培根,冰箱里放着三明治馅,架子上摆满了印有出租车司机们各自喜欢的球队徽章的马克杯,当有人喜欢的球队降级或是输了重大比赛,塔克会在他们的巴克杯把上绑上黑丝带表示同情。

To her regulars, Tucker is family.

对她的常客来说,塔克是家人。

“They see me as a big sister,” she said. “If I’m sick, I have to text about 20 people to say the shelter is closed. Some of them won’t know what to do with themselves.”

"他们把我当作姐姐,"她说。"如果我生病了,我会收到差不多20条短信问休憩亭怎么没开门。有些人不知道休憩站停了自己该怎么办。"

She has her own rules: no staring at mobile phones and no moaning about Uber. “We all know it’s quiet. The trade is dying, and I have thought about what I would do if I had to get another job. I don’t think I could work anywhere else.”

她有她自己的原则:不要盯着手机也不要埋怨优步(Uber)。"我们心里都明白,这个行业已经暮气沉沉,我也想过如果必须另找工作该怎么办。没有我能工作的地方。"

“The little lives that go on in these shelters,” chuckled Evans as we pulled away. “It’s not just the buildings. It’s the characters, too. If we lose this, we lose part of the cab trade’s history and a part of London history. That would be a real shame.”

"休憩亭承载了这些人的故事,"我们离开时,埃文斯轻声笑着说。"休憩亭不仅是一种建筑,更关乎这些人。如果我们失去了休憩亭,就等于失去了一部分出租车行业历史,也失去了一部分伦敦历史,那就太可惜了。"

“全文请访问纽约时报中文网,本文发表于纽约时报中文网(http://cn.nytimes.com),版权归纽约时报公司所有。任何单位及个人未经许可,不得擅自转载或翻译。订阅纽约时报中文网新闻电邮:http://nytcn.me/subscription/”

相关文章列表