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“亚洲美食之都”吉隆坡? 美食藏在夜幕降临后

更新时间:2018-5-22 20:15:31 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Is this the food capital of Asia?
“亚洲美食之都”吉隆坡? 美食藏在夜幕降临后

With its unique mix of cultures, languages and religions, Kuala Lumpur often gets described by locals as a ‘big melting pot’, where different traditions are openly celebrated and enjoyed.

吉隆坡常被当地人称作“大熔炉”,因其丰富多元的文化、语言、宗教在此友好交融,不同的传统也得到尊重和包容。

The melting pot is also often more literal than metaphorical in Malaysia’s biggest city and capital. “Food is always the quickest way to get acquainted with a culture, and what food in Malaysia tells us is that an ethnic mix of Chinese, Indian and Malay can work, really well,” said Jeff Ramsey, a Michelin star chef from Babe restaurant based in Kuala Lumpur. But the food here takes on its very own distinct flavour that can’t be found anywhere else. “For example, when eating a large spread of Chinese food here, you won't taste much that you can find in China, if at all,” he said.

吉隆坡既是马来西亚的首都,也是马来西亚最大的城市。人们将其形容为"大熔炉"并不只是一种比喻,而是事实。吉隆坡宝贝饭店(Babe restaurant)的米其林星级厨师拉姆塞(Jeff Ramsey)说:“要了解某地的文化,食物是最单刀直入的方式。马来西亚的食物完美融合了中华菜系、印度菜系与马来菜系等,而又在此基础上发展出了别处吃不到的独特风味。”他还举了个例子,像是在这儿吃的很多中华美食,跟在中国吃的味道绝对不一样。

Along with the diversity of food, locals enjoy the mix of modern icons like the skyline-defining 452m-tall Petronas Twin Towers and the older, Moorish-inspired colonial architecture of places like the Kuala Lumpur Railway Station. “I love that it offers an interesting blend of the old and new, which makes it fun to explore,” said Emily Yeap, who is originally from Kuala Lumpur and now lives in the US. “The city is definitely lively. There’s always something going on and something to do.”

不光是饮食风味多样,吉隆坡还有多元的城市风情。这里有现代摩登大厦:高达452米的国家石油公司双子塔(Petronas Twin Towers,在当地也被称为“双子星大厦”),也有如建于1910年的有古典摩尔式风格的殖民地时期建筑:吉隆坡老火车站。原籍吉隆坡,目前居住在美国的叶小姐(Emily Yeap)说:“吉隆坡融汇古今,趣味盎然。它是一座有活力的城市,总有新奇事儿,充满新鲜劲儿。”

Why do people love it?

为何人人都爱吉隆坡?

Kuala Lumpur’s food culture is a huge draw, and is one that’s fully experienced after dark, from around 19:00, when people meet their friends and jalan jalan cari makan (go out and look for food). “Vendors set up stalls at pasar malams (night markets), which happen once a week in every area or district,” said Zuzanna Chmielewska, who moved from Poland to Malaysia in 2012 and writes about the country at her blog Zu in Asia. “Street food options include various kinds of curries, dumplings and fried rice, as well as trendy imported items, like rainbow toasts or unicorn desserts.” This kind of socialising can go well into the night, according to Chmielewska, and 24-hour canteens known as mamaks stay bustling until the early morning.

在吉隆坡,超有诱惑力的美食文化得天黑以后才能全然体味。傍晚七点左右,人们呼朋唤友,外出觅食(马来语称之为“jalan jalan cari makan”)。网络博主齐米雷斯卡(Zuzanna Chmielewska)于2012年自波兰搬至吉隆坡,目前运营一个介绍吉隆坡生活的博客“祖赞娜在亚洲”(Zu in Asia)。她介绍说:“每个居民区或行政区每周都有夜市,夜市上各种摊贩会出摊。夜市上的路边摊小吃有各式咖喱、饺子、炒饭,还有一些外来的时新食物像是彩虹土司和独角兽甜筒冰淇淋等。”这种社交活动通常持续到深夜。齐米雷斯卡还补充道,像嘛嘛档( mamaks)这样二十四小时营业的大排档在凌晨时分还人头攒动。

The eating doesn’t stop then though. “For breakfast after a night out, a really good bak kut teh will hit the spot,” Ramsey said. The pork dish is braised in a broth with cinnamon, clove, star anise and fennel and served alongside a dipping sauce made from chopped garlic, soy sauce and sliced green bird’s eye chilli. “Beer is the choice [of] drink to have in this scenario, so make sure you don't have too much to do later in the day.”

不光是晚上,天亮后也能在这里吃不停。拉姆塞说:“夜归的第二日清晨来碗上好的肉骨茶提神又醒脑。”肉骨茶是猪肉大排混合桂皮、大蒜、八角、茴香等香料熬制的浓汤,再配上蒜蓉,酱油和泰国鸟眼辣椒碎制成的蘸酱。“这道早点若是有啤酒配就再好不过了,但得确保白天没什么重要的事情要做。”

With so many cultures converging here, newcomers enjoy a constant sense of discovery. “I love to walk around KL and discover its hidden secrets, from a small stall selling curry made of monitor lizard meat, to street art performances during the Chinese Hungry Ghost Month,” Chmielewska said. In fact, the different religious calendars mean there’s a celebration at least a couple of times a month.

多元文化交汇于此。初来乍到者总能在吉隆坡不断发现新奇。齐米雷斯卡说:“我最爱在吉隆坡街头四处走走,发现那些隐秘的美好,偶尔能与卖蜥蜴肉制成的咖喱菜肴的小摊或是中国鬼节的街头表演不期而遇。”因为当地不同宗教信仰交融意味着遵照不同的教历,每个月至少有好几个要庆祝的节日。

Those celebrations are often open to quite literally anyone. “There's a tradition of an ‘Open House’, in which on a chosen special occasion, a family prepares tons of food and decorations and then lets anyone join,” Chmielewska said. “It’s mostly their friends and relatives, but the gate to the house is literally open, so anyone can just walk in and enjoy the celebration.”

这些庆典都对几乎所有人开放。齐米雷斯卡介绍道,“吉隆坡有开放日(Open House)的传统,在选定的地点,各家各户会准备餐点,装饰屋子,开门迎接大家。虽说来的客人大多是主人家的亲戚朋友,但其实大门是对所有人敞开的,只要想加入就可以进屋共同庆祝。”

Newcomers feel like it’s easy to quickly become part of the local community, with Chmielewska explaining that “people are quite used to expats from all over the world so it's not a problem to blend in.”

对初来者来说,想快速融入成为当地群体的一员相当容易。齐米雷斯卡解释说,“吉隆坡人民早就适应来自世界各地的人们来到这里,外来人士想融入当地生活不成问题。”

What’s it like living here?

在吉隆坡生活是一种什么样的体验?

The city is hot, rainy and frequently stormy, which causes a lot of traffic jams. “KL’s roads are so complicated that everyone drives with their GPS on, even people who have lived in the city since they were born,” Chmielewska said.

吉隆坡气候高温多雨,暴风雨天气频繁,易有交通拥堵。齐米雷斯卡告诉我们:“这里路况复杂,即便你是个土生土长的本地人,开车也离不开GPS导航。”

The traffic also means that many people choose to use the effective, mostly train-based, public transportation system. When that’s not an option, expats suggest using fixed-rate ride-hailing apps, such as Grab, over taxis, which sometimes charge foreigners differing rates.

当地交通状况使得居民大多会选择以轻轨为主的公共交通出行。如果没法搭轻轨,建议外来人士别搭的士,而是使用固定收费的打车类应用软件,比如“搭车”(Grab)等。因为的士有时会“宰”外国人。

Most expats live in Mont Kiara (around 11km north-west of the city centre) for its easy access to international schools and shopping malls, but expats looking for a more immersive experience can settle in one of the more culturally distinct districts, which include Cheras (Chinese), Kampung Baru (Malay) or Brickfields (Indian). Though some areas of the city are more ethnically segregated than others, expats can live in any area of the city.

大多数侨民住在满家乐(Mont Kiara,位于市中心西北方约11公里)区域,附近有国际学校和购物中心等。但如果你想更好地融入当地生活,可以选择住在民族特色更鲜明的地区,包括蕉赖(Cheras,华人聚集地),甘榜峇鲁(Kampung Baru,马来人聚集地),十五碑(Brickfields,印度人聚集地)。虽然有部分地区相较来说更有民族封闭性,但原则上侨民住哪里都可以。

What else do I need to know?

去吉隆坡还需要了解什么?

Minor street crime is a daily reality here – muggings at ATMs and handbag thefts near street food stalls are unfortunately common – so residents advise carrying as little cash as possible and avoiding walking alone at night.

远离主干道的小路犯罪率较高,几乎每天都有罪案发生:银行提款机附近是抢劫案高发地,而路边摊附近有很多扒手出没。因此当地居民建议出门尽量少带现金,也不要独自走夜路。

While the city is still more affordable than Western big cities and Asian countries like Japan and Singapore, the cost of living is rising. “Things like accommodation, transportation and eating out are becoming more expensive,” said Yeap. “Newcomers should be aware that the ringgit (local currency) doesn’t go as far as it did in the past.”

与西方国家或亚洲一些国家如日本、新加坡等地的大都市相比,吉隆坡生活成本较低,但这几年也在不断攀高。叶小姐说:“当地住房、交通和外出餐饮等费用越来越高。新来到这边的人要知道林吉特(当地货币单位)不如以前耐花了。”

Because of the city’s diversity, newcomers also shouldn’t assume other expat experiences will mirror theirs. “Just because your friend already works in KL, doesn't mean you will have a similar experience,” Chmielewska said. “You might end up working with mostly Malaysian-Chinese team, while he works with Malaysian-Malay team. There would be huge differences in working culture, lengths of breaks, etc. Just go with the flow and be open to new experiences. Respect the cultures and others will do the same.”

正因为吉隆坡是个多元文化并存的地方,初来者得认识到它的独特之处,可不能把照搬硬套原有的或其他人的生活方式。齐米雷斯卡告诫道∶“即便是你有个也在吉隆坡工作的朋友,并不意味着你俩在这儿的生活会完全相似。兴许你工作的团队里大多是马来西亚华人,而他的同事都是马来人,如此一来,你们公司的文化氛围,放假安排等也会大不相同。就顺其自然吧!以开放的心态拥抱全新的体验。只要你尊重别人的文化,对方也会投桃报李。”

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