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更新时间:2018-4-26 20:28:56 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Melania Trump, at the State Dinner in Chanel, Gave Everyone Something to Chew On

In the end she played the part, donned the costume — and gave everyone something to chew on.


Melania Trump, who orchestrated the first state dinner of the Trump administration — the most fancy ceremonial evening since the inauguration — stood next to her husband and welcomed President Emmanuel Macron of France and his wife, Brigitte, while wearing a Chanel haute couture dress of black Chantilly lace, hand-painted with silver, and embroidered with crystal and sequins.

梅拉尼娅·特朗普(Melania Trump)筹办了特朗普政府的第一次国宴——这是自就职典礼以来最盛大的典礼晚宴——她站在丈夫身边,身穿缀着黑色尚蒂伊蕾丝、带有银色手绘图案、绣着水晶和亮片的香奈儿(Chanel)高级定制连衣裙,欢迎法国总统埃马纽埃尔·马克龙(Emmanuel Macron)和他的妻子布丽吉特(Brigitte)。

Melania Trump’s dress looked kind of like sparkling sleeveless body armor and reflected a desire to pay homage to the guests of honor and what may be a new “special relationship” (identified thus by President Donald Trump earlier in the day while brushing what he identified as dandruff off Macron’s shoulders). Chanel is, after all, a brand that is almost synonymous with French fashion, and couture, a specific segment of the fashion industry that exists formally only in France.


It was the first time Melania Trump had worn Chanel at a major public occasion since becoming first lady, and one of the rare times that a first lady’s office has advertised the fact she was wearing couture.


Her predecessor, Michelle Obama, often had dresses altered to her specifications — and wore an Atelier Versace chain mail couture gown to her final state dinner with then-Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi — but couture is a sector unto itself, rooted in French history, unabashedly elite, and symbolic of what is known with pride as “savoir-faire,” or know-how.

她的前任米歇尔·奥巴马(Michelle Obama)经常按照自己的要求修改服装,她在最后一次国宴上会见时任意大利总理马泰奥·伦齐(Matteo Renzi)时,穿了范思哲高定(Atelier Versace)链甲礼服——但高定时装本身是一个根植于法国历史的行业,带有毫不掩饰的精英色彩,象征着充满自豪感的所谓“精湛技艺”。

It is also handmade to order, exists only as one-offs, and comes complete with prices that can run into the six digits. Melania Trump, for example, seems to have taken what was originally a jumpsuit from the Chanel spring 2018 couture collection and had it remade as a dress.


But in a world of Trumpian excess, where the first lady once wore a coat that cost $51,500, maybe such a willingness to spend should have been expected (besides, the dress can be donated to the national archive by the designer, which defrays the cost). Melania Trump has always been unapologetic about the price of her clothes, and this gown had a dual purpose.


As Louise Linton, wife of the Treasury secretary, Steven Mnuchin, said when she and her husband made their entrance, she was excited for “everything French!”

正如财政部长史蒂文·努钦(Steven Mnuchin)的妻子露易丝·林顿(Louise Linton)在出席宴会时所说,“法国的一切!”都让她兴奋不已。

There was something ironic about the fact she said that while wearing a silver beaded gown from Roberto Cavalli, an Italian brand designed by an Englishman, but it may not have occurred to her.

有一件事很有讽刺意味,当她这么说的同时,身上穿的却是由英国人设计的意大利品牌罗伯特·卡沃利(Roberto Cavalli)的银色珠串礼服,但她可能想不到这回事。

In any case, Melania Trump’s decision to wear Chanel was smart, given that her counterpart, Brigitte Macron, had her entire trip wardrobe made by Louis Vuitton.

不管怎么说,梅拉尼娅·特朗普决定穿香奈儿都是很聪明的,因为她对面的法国第一夫人布丽吉特·马克龙的出行穿着完全由路易威登(Louis Vuitton)包办。

“It is a huge honor for me to see Brigitte Macron wearing my designs while on this trip,” said Nicolas Ghesquière, the artistic director of Louis Vuitton. “I love her style and fashion sensibility,” which now represents her country.

“看到布丽吉特·马克龙在这次旅行中穿着我的设计,我感到非常荣幸,”路易威登的艺术总监尼古拉斯·格斯基耶尔(Nicolas Ghesquière)说。“我喜欢她的风格和时尚敏感度,”而现在这也代表了她的国家。

Vuitton is, of course, another ur-French brand that happens to be owned by Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Arnault, said to be the richest man in France, and his wife, Hélène, were at the dinner; he was one of the first businessmen to visit Donald Trump at Trump Tower after his election. Given that LVMH owns Dior and Givenchy, brands favored by Hélène Arnault, it is probably a good thing Melania Trump avoided them, too.

当然,路易威登也是一个殿堂级法国品牌,恰好归LVMH酩悦·轩尼诗-路易威登集团(LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton)的董事长贝尔纳·阿尔诺(Bernard Arnault)所有。被认为是法国首富的阿尔诺的妻子伊莲(Hélène)也出席了国宴;唐纳德·特朗普当选后,阿尔诺是到特朗普大厦去拜访他的首批商人之一。鉴于LVMH拥有伊莲·阿尔诺青睐的品牌迪奥(Dior)和纪梵希(Givenchy),梅拉尼娅·特朗普避开这些品牌或许是件好事。

That left it to Ivanka Trump to represent American fashion, which she did in a pink tulle and Swiss dot Rodarte confection. Otherwise the clothes were relatively low-key.

因此伊万卡·特朗普(Ivanka Trump)成了国宴上美国时装的代表,她靠一件带瑞士圆点的粉红色薄纱罗达特(Rodarte)礼服做到了这一点。除此之外,衣服本身相对低调。

Jerry Hall showed up with Rupert Murdoch in bright sapphire blue; Nancy Kissinger, Karen Pence and Sarah Huckabee Sanders in black lace. Christine Schwarzman, who will soon be standing atop the Metropolitan Museum of Art steps with her husband, Stephen, as one of the hosts of the Met Gala, wore white opera gloves.

一身宝蓝色裙装的杰瑞·霍尔(Jerry Hall)与鲁珀特·默多克(Rupert Murdoch)一起出席;南希·基辛格(Nancy Kissinger)、凯伦·彭斯(Karen Pence)和莎拉·哈克比·桑德斯(Sarah Huckabe Sanders)都穿了黑色蕾丝。克里斯汀·施瓦茨曼(Christine Schwarzman)戴了白色的歌剧手套,这位大都会艺术博物馆慈善舞会(Met Gala)主持人之一不久将与丈夫苏世民(Stephen Schwarzman)一起出现在大都会台阶顶端。

It was the first lady who stood out in her glinting metallic gown, just as she had earlier in the day, with a broad-brimmed white hat that shadowed her face and matched her white suit with its military mien. And as she had on Day 1 of the French visit, in the black cape she wore to Mount Vernon.


Though each garment came from a different designer, together they created the impression of a woman who has found the glamour in self-protection, and who is gradually tailoring the unwritten rules of her role to her own specifications. Creating her own recipe, as it were.