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更新时间:2018-1-30 19:34:50 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

At the Grammy Awards, White Roses Paled in Comparison to Kesha Rose

It may be a sign of the times that the most striking fashion statement at the 60th annual Grammy Awards, held Sunday night in New York, did not take place on the red carpet at all.

周日晚间在纽约举行的第60届格莱美颁奖典礼(Grammy Awards)上,最引人注目的时尚宣言并没有出现在红毯上,这或许是这个时代的标志。

It was not, for example, Lady Gaga’s embrace of full-on diva-dom in an Armani Privé lace jumpsuit under a sweeping taffeta skirt, complete with bustle, her hair in an elaborate braid woven with black thread. Nor was it Cardi B’s channeling the “butterflies” she told Giuliana Rancic she felt in an elaborate butterfly dress by the Beirut-based Ashi Studio, complete with unfurling wings (O.K., sleeves), or Pink’s Armani feather fantasy.

比如,Lady Gaga推出全套天后造型,身穿阿玛尼(Armani)高级定制蕾丝连体裤,外搭宽摆塔夫绸半身裙,头发用黑线精心编成辫子。Cardi B身穿贝鲁特Ashi Studio设计的精致的蝴蝶裙,搭配展开的翅膀(好吧,你可以说那是袖子),她在接受朱莉安娜·兰科奇(Giuliana Rancic)采访时说,她觉得自己“招蜂引蝶”。Pink身穿阿玛尼羽毛装。这些都不是时尚宣言。

It was not the minority trend toward pantsuits, though that was noteworthy, as seen most successfully on Janelle Monáe, in a regal, floral Dolce & Gabbana tux complete with bow tie, as well as Anna Kendrick, Kesha, Alessia Cara and Cyndi Lauper. It was not the eye-catching accessories, including Lana Del Ray’s star-spangled halo atop a custom Gucci gown and Hailee Steinfeld’s purple boots, visible through a sky-high slit in her white Alexandre Vauthier sheath. (Legs were something of a stealth accessory of the night; see Rita Ora.)

时尚宣言也不是穿裤装的少数派潮流,尽管它颇为引人注目,在这方面尤为成功的是身穿杜嘉班纳(Dolce & Gabbana)华丽的印花无尾礼服、搭配领结的简妮尔·蒙纳伊(Janelle Monáe),以及安娜·肯德里克(Anna Kendrick)、凯莎(Kesha), 阿莱西娅·卡拉(Alessia Cara)和辛迪·劳帕(Cyndi Lauper);亦不是引人注目的配饰,包括拉娜·德雷(Lana Del Ray)为古驰(Gucci)定制礼服搭配的星饰王冠,或海莉·斯坦菲尔德(Hailee Steinfeld)的紫色靴子(腿是这个夜晚的一种隐形配饰,参见丽塔·奥拉[Rita Ora])。

It was not even the apparent death of the tuxedo, though seemingly 90 percent of the men in attendance chose to eschew black for suits and separates in a rainbow of shades. There was Sam Smith’s (somewhat controversial — social media was not convinced) jade green suit; Khalid’s baby pink Salvatore Ferragamo, straight off the runway; Ne-Yo’s bright mustard velvet smoking jacket; Tyler, the Creator’s baby blue jacket with Louis Vuitton scarf and white Russian ushanka hat with hammer and-sickle; and Bruno Mars’ sequined blood red zip-up.

时尚宣言甚至也不是无尾礼服的明显消亡,尽管90%的男性出席者选择避开黑色西装,用各种颜色将自己跟他人区分开来。比如山姆·史密斯(Sam Smith,他好像引起了争议,社交媒体也靠不住)的翠绿西服套装;哈立德(Khalid)的婴儿粉Salvatore Ferragamo套装,它直接偏离了主流;Ne-Yo的亮芥末色丝绒吸烟装;“造物主泰勒”(Tyler, the Creator)的婴儿蓝外衣,搭配路易·威登(Louis Vuitton)的围巾以及装饰着锤子和镰刀的白色俄罗斯式毛帽;以及布鲁诺·马尔斯(Bruno Mars)用亮片装饰的血红色拉链外套。

And perhaps most shockingly, it was not Beyoncé (Beyoncé!), despite her mysteriously materializing next to her black turtleneck-clad husband, Jay-Z, after the ceremony had started, in coordinating black shades: black saucer-style hat, Nicolas Jebran cold shoulder and (yes) leg-baring black gown and collarbone-sweeping diamond earrings.

也许最让人震惊的是,最引人注目的时尚宣言也并非来自碧昂斯(Beyoncé),尽管她在典礼开始后神秘地出现在她的丈夫Jay-Z身边,他穿着黑色高领毛衣,她也是一身黑:黑色茶碟帽;Nicolas Jebran牌露腿黑色礼服(是的!);长及锁骨的钻石耳环。

Rather, it was the moment, late in the show, when Ms. Monáe finally addressed Time’s Up from the stage, and then a host of women, including Camila Cabello, Andra Day, Ms. Lauper and the Resistance Revival Chorus appeared to accompany Kesha in her anthem to personal survival and strength, “Praying” — all wearing different outfits in suffragist white. It was an unmistakable visual statement of solidarity, written in style.

这个时刻出现在节目的后半段,蒙纳伊最终在台上提到了Time’s Up运动,然后一群女人——包括卡米拉·卡贝洛(Camila Cabello)、安德拉·戴(Andra Day)、劳帕和“抵制与复兴合唱团”(Resistance Revival Chorus)——登上舞台,配合凯莎演唱颂扬个人生存和力量的歌曲《祈祷》(Praying)。她们穿着不同款式的妇女参政论者的白色套装。这是一个明确无误的、通过时装表达的视觉团结宣言。

And it underscored not just the message of the song, but the fact that once the door has been opened to using fashion to make more than just a pretty paparazzi-snagging picture, it’s almost impossible to go back.


This seems to have occurred to the music industry late in the game, when a call went out to guests to wear white roses in support of Time’s Up, because white “stands for hope, peace, sympathy and resistance,” according to the email urging support. Many complied, though as a practical matter it proved more effective for male attendees, who could simply pin a bud to their lapel, than the women, whose strapless, lacy and otherwise highly decorated gowns did not lend themselves to further adornment.

音乐界似乎是在这场游戏的后期才加入的,呼吁对Time’s Up运动表达支持的邮件请求宾客们佩戴白色玫瑰,因为白色“代表希望、和平、同情和抵抗”。许多人表示同意,但实际操作起来,男性参与者更为方便,他们把花蕾别到衣领上就行了,而女性的礼服往往没有肩带,是用蕾丝做成的,或者本身装饰已经够多,无法再进行更多的装饰。

As a result, most, like Kelly Clarkson and Miley Cyrus, ended up carrying their roses in their hands. Ms. Cabello, the young Cuban-American singer whose affecting speech about Dreamers and her own history, made after Kesha’s appearance, was another powerful moment, attached hers to her handbag. And they seem to have largely disappeared by the time the women entered the auditorium. Presumably, there were a lot of dead flowers left behind, which is probably not exactly the symbol the organizers were going for.

结果,大多数人最后都是手拿玫瑰,比如凯莉·克拉克森(Kelly Clarkson)和麦莉·赛勒斯(Miley Cyrus)。卡贝洛则是把玫瑰花别到了手包上。这位年轻的古巴裔美国歌手在凯莎的表演之后发表了关于梦想者(Dreamers)和她自己故事的感人演讲,那是另一个强有力的时刻。当这些女性进入观众席后,那些花大都消失了。可想而知,有许多死去的花被丢掉了,这很可能并不是组织者想要的标志。

The Golden Globe Awards, with its surprisingly effective call for the women attending to wear all black in support of Time’s Up, not only raised our expectations of what clothes can say on the red carpet, but created the expectation that they should be used to say something in the first place.

而金球奖(Golden Globe Awards)则有效地呼吁女性参与者为支持Time’s Up运动而全都穿上黑色礼服。它不仅令我们期望看到红毯上的服装可以用来表达什么意见,而且令我们期望这些服装首先就应该有表达意见的功能。

Pinning on a point of view is no longer enough. We’ve been there, done that. And now the bar has been raised. If women (and men) really want their point of view on change to be seen as well as heard, they need to follow through on the idea. And that includes changing what they wear. Clothes are an expression of culture.


Without that kind of added dimension, the fashion, even the most glamorous, dream-inducing kind, seems less compelling. It doesn’t have the same staying power, because it doesn’t have the same substance, no matter how much material is involved.


With the Oscars looming, the final exclamation point to this awards season, it’s an important lesson. The pressure will probably be high for nominees and other attendees to put aside politics and play the old game, but the stakes have changed.


If they are smart, they will start planning the red carpet revolution now.