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更新时间:2017-12-6 11:30:39 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Shanghai

Shanghai’s appeal has long been its breathtaking skyline, glitzy night life and brash, anything-goes attitude. A cultural mecca it was not. In recent years, though, China’s commercial capital has started to develop a more sophisticated side. A host of high-profile museum openings and the launch of several influential art fairs — ART021, West Bund Art & Design and Photofairs Shanghai — have solidified Shanghai’s status as a major player in the Asian art world, while new performing arts venues like the Shanghai Symphony Orchestra Hall have vastly improved its theater and music offerings. Yes, there are still shopping malls aplenty, but also, increasingly, independent bookstores, creative entrepreneurs and seriously good coffee shops. Shanghai is still a city flush with cash and Ferraris, but beneath all the excess, there’s more substance than ever.


Shanghai is still a city flush with cash and Ferraris, but beneath all the excess, there's more substance than ever.




1) 下午3:00,Art Stroll

For a city its size, Shanghai had been famously short on two things — green space and art. To remedy that, the city splashed out to build its own Museum Mile, along with a riverside park, in a new district known as West Bund. The Yuz Museum (entrance, 150 renminbi, or about $22), housed in a Sou Fujimoto-designed former aircraft hangar, has been at the forefront of the cultural awakening here, hosting high-profile shows featuring Andy Warhol, Alberto Giacometti and the Brooklyn-based artist KAWS in recent years. A short walk down the river is a fast-growing arts complex filled with studios and galleries, including the venerable ShanghART (free), which exhibits works by emerging Chinese artists and sells pieces by more established names like Zhou Tiehai and Ding Yi. Added to the mix this fall was another highly anticipated gallery, the Tokyo-based Ota Fine Arts.

以它的规模而言,这座城市有两样东西短缺——绿地和艺术。为改进这点,上海掷下重金,在一个叫做西岸的新区打造了属于自己的“博物馆大道”(Museum Mile)和一个河滨公园。由藤本壮介担纲设计的余德耀美术馆(门票150元)坐落在一个老飞机库内,走在这里的文化觉醒的前沿。近些年举办了一些重量级展览,展出了安迪·沃霍尔(Andy Warhol)、阿尔佩托·贾科梅蒂(Alberto Giacometti)以及布鲁克林艺术家KAWS。顺着江岸走不出多远,便是一片发展迅速的艺术建筑群,满是工作室和画廊。其中有让人肃然起敬的香格纳画廊(ShanghART,免费),会展出中国新锐艺术家的作品,也出售如周铁海和丁乙等更有名的艺术家的作品。今年秋季,备受瞩目的大田画廊(Ota Fine Arts)也加入其中。


2) 下午6:00,空中欢乐时光

It’s hard to fathom that the futuristic skyline of the Pudong financial district was little more than farmland 30 years ago. Ponder that while sipping a cocktail and taking in the fantastic light show at sunset, when the gleaming towers are illuminated with flashing “I Heart Shanghai” messages, and boats, twinkling with lights, glide by on the river. Perches abound for this neon-bathed sundowner, but the 30th floor balcony at the Hotel Indigo’s Char Bar offers one of the best vantage points — not to mention a highly drinkable Aperol spritz (130 renminbi).

很难想象,有着极其现代化天际线的浦东,在30年前只不过是一片农田。不妨一边品着鸡尾酒、欣赏着日落时分绝美的灯光秀,一边琢磨这个问题吧。日落时,熠熠发光的大楼被闪现的“我爱上海”信息照亮,江面上还有灯光闪烁的船只驶过。有很多地方可供你品一杯沐浴在霓虹之中的夕暮饮品,但是在英迪格酒店(Hotel Indigo)30层上,“恰”酒吧的露台有着最佳的视野——更别提超级好喝的开胃鸡尾酒了(售价130元)。


3) 下午7:30,牛肉竞拍

Shanghai is loaded with celebrity chefs, but none can match the staying power of the Frenchman Paul Pairet, founder of the late-night stalwart Mr & Mrs Bund and the boundary-pushing, $600-a-head Ultraviolet. His latest offering, The Chop Chop Club, continues his penchant for quirky dining experiences with a grill-focused menu that pits diners against one another for the freshest cuts. A giant electronic board in the dining room announces the time dishes will be ready, along with available servings: “Bertha-oven charred oxtail teriyaki, 19:45, 4 portions, 250 renminbi!” First come are first served. The meats and fish are all expertly prepared and if you miss out on your first choice, the “B’ocktails” (pre-made cocktails in handsome glass bottles) are available all night.

上海的明星大厨不计其数,但没人可以与法国人保罗·佩莱(Paul Pairet)的影响力相媲美。他创办了营业到深夜的Mr. & Mrs. Bund和不断打破规则、人均600美元的Ultraviolet。最新推出的“The Chop Chop Club”延续了他对奇异用餐体验的热爱。菜单以烧烤为主,食客们可以竞逐最新鲜的肉品。餐厅内,巨大电子屏上显示着出菜时间和当前点餐:“照烧碳烤焦牛尾,19:45,4份,250人民币!”先到先得。肉和鱼都经过精心制备,如果错过了你的首选,整晚都会为你提供“B’ocktails”(装在精美玻璃瓶里的预制鸡尾酒)。


4) 晚上9:00,夜总会复兴

Shanghai’s newfound wealth has led to a revival of the decadence and debauchery of its pre-World War II years — minus the opium dens. The most ribald party in town can be found in the distant, gritty Hongkou district at The Pearl, a former Buddhist temple transformed into a cabaret club with plush red banquettes and two tiers of balconies surrounding an intimate stage. The program runs the gamut from gender-bending drag and burlesque shows (trapeze artists and fire jugglers make frequent, heart-pounding appearances) to less risqué fare like “jazz diva” tribute concerts, featuring largely local performers. Admission to most shows is around 200 renminbi; check Facebook for a calendar.





5) 下午12:30,吃一顿呼噜噜的午饭

The sign above the wall-mounted menu says it all: “Order now, stuff now, steam now, eat now.” At Lin Long Fang, freshness is a virtue — the hole-in-the-wall restaurant specializes in one thing, xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) and does it exceedingly well, making each batch to order. The cooking demonstration is something to behold — the talkative chefs roll, stuff and pinch each bao with swiftness and precision. And the dumplings themselves easily trump those found in more upmarket locales, particularly the delectable chun xiefen (pure crab, 99 renminbi). Napkins are a necessity as these morsels can be messy.



6) 下午3:00,艺术丝线

Amid all the same-same luxury malls in Shanghai, there are a plethora of independent boutiques to be found. Dong Liang, the go-to place for emerging Chinese women’s fashion designers, expanded two years ago with a men’s boutique; check out Chuang Qu’s mud-dyed jackets and the bold eyewear conjured up by the Shanghai label ChairEyes. For traditional textiles with a modern design, the newly opened Klee Klee sells women’s wear made from organic silk and colorful pillows and quilts stitched by minority Dong artisans in rural Guizhou province, while Shokay specializes in sustainable yak-down blankets and sweaters sourced from Tibetan herders in western China.

在众多大同小异的奢侈品商场之外,上海有太多的独立服装店可以发掘。“栋梁”是要找中国新锐女性时尚设计师的必去之处,两年前拓展了一个男装部。可以看看瞿创的泥染夹克和上海品牌“ChairEyes”变幻出来的醒目眼镜。要买带有现代设计感的传统面料,新开张的店铺“Klee Klee”有用有机蚕丝制作的女装,以及由贵州偏远地区的侗族工匠缝制的彩色枕头和被子。“Shokay”则专门制作环保的牦牛绒毯和牦牛绒毛衣,原料采购自藏人牧民。


7) 晚上7:00,不吃肉的地方

For vegetarians, China can be a risky proposition — even seemingly safe dishes like green beans and tofu are often sprinkled with pork. But at Dashu Wujie, a serene restaurant with wood tables, soft lighting and translucent gauze screens separating diners, the aim is to showcase inventive vegetarian cooking with a seasonal menu and ingredients from far-flung regions of China. (The wild mushrooms, for one, are flown in from Yunnan province on the Myanmar border.) Dishes like chive-oil walnuts in a green pepper sauce (98 renminbi) and Japanese-style panko-crusted mushroom tonkatsu (88 renminbi) are flavorful, as well. It’s a dry restaurant, though you’ll hardly notice after tasting the fizzy oolong cranberry vinegar tea (42 renminbi).



8) 晚上10:00,复古旋律

From the Art Deco lettering out front to the polished brass fan design arching above patrons on the ceiling, the intimate jazz bar Heyday evokes the glamour days of 1920s and ’30s Shanghai when jazz flourished in the hedonistic foreign concessions. The drinks menu, too, gives a wink to jazz classics, with concoctions like “Minnie the Moocher” (Benedictine, amaro, lemon, yuzu marmalade and egg white), named after a song by Cab Calloway. Led by the Russian-Israeli pianist Oleg Roschin, a longtime fixture on the Shanghai jazz scene, the Heyday band plays nightly, fronted by a rotating cast of singers. Cover charges for the tables and booths vary, but seats in the bar area are free. And in a venue this cozy, there’s literally not a bad seat in the house.

从前门装饰艺术风格的字体,到天花板上悬挂的精致铜扇,私密的爵士酒吧Heyday让人想起了20世纪20、30年代上海的繁华,当时爵士乐在追求享乐的外国租界里十分流行。这里的酒水单也在向爵士乐经典致敬,比如Minnie the Moocher鸡尾酒(含有本尼迪克特甜酒、埃玛娜葡萄酒、柠檬、橘子酱和蛋清)就是以卡布·卡洛韦(Cab Calloway)的一首歌命名的。Heyday的乐队由上海爵士乐坛的常青树、俄罗斯裔以色列钢琴家奥列格·罗辛(Oleg Roschin)领衔,每晚都有演出,歌手是轮换的。卡座和包间的费用各不相同,但酒吧区的座位是免费的。在这个舒适的酒吧里,哪个座位都很好。




9) 上午6:00,在外滩日出中醒来

Late-night revelers and early risers find common inspiration at the historic Bund at this time of day — the tranquil sight of pensioners practicing tai chi as the sun rises over the Pudong skyline and the Huangpu River (known to some as a Bundrise). It’s also a great spot for a jog — north along the Bund across the century-old steel Waibaidu Bridge and then along Suzhou Creek. If this is too early for you, grab coffee instead at The Press, an atmospheric cafe in the beautifully restored, historic Shun Pao building, the former home of one of Shanghai’s first daily newspapers.

在一天中的这个宁静的时刻,深夜的狂欢者和早起的人在历史悠久的外滩找到了共同的灵感——当太阳从浦东天际线和黄浦江上升起时(有人称之为“Bundrise”[外滩日出]),退休的老人悠闲地打着太极。它也是一处绝佳的慢跑地点——在北岸沿着外滩,穿过有百年历史的全钢结构外百渡桥,然后沿着苏州河慢跑。如果这对你来说太早了,那就在雅致的申报馆咖啡厅(The Press)喝一杯咖啡,它位于装修华丽、历史悠久的申报馆大楼内,那里曾是上海首家日报社的所在地。


10) 上午10:00,登高瞭望

At 2,073 feet, Shanghai Tower, the second-tallest building on earth, doesn’t just dwarf the other skyscrapers around it, it makes them look laughably small. On a clear day, the bird’s-eye view from the observation deck on the 118th floor is equally impressive — an endless tableau of apartment blocks and office towers stretching to the horizon, interrupted only by the placid, snaking Huangpu (entrance, 180 renminbi). For skyscraper aficionados, the swooping, cylindrical tower also has an informative museum with all sorts of factoids. Not only does the building feature the world’s heaviest damper to prevent swaying (1,100 tons), it also has the world’s fastest elevators, whisking visitors to the top at an ear-popping 40 miles per hour.




The long-awaited Capella Shanghai, the Singapore-based luxury chain’s first China property, opened in September in a restored Shanghai shikumen lane complex originally built for French traders in the 1930s. The property features 55 villas set in three-story traditional houses with private courtyards and rooftop balconies, starting at 4,000 renminbi per night.

备受期待的上海嘉佩乐酒店(Capella Shanghai)是总部位于新加坡的奢华酒店连锁在中国开设的第一家酒店,它于9月开业,位于修复后的石库门建筑群,那里最初是20世纪30年代为法国贸易商建造的。该酒店共有55栋别墅,位于三层楼高的传统住宅里,带有私人庭院和屋顶阳台,每晚起价4000元人民币。

Another recent arrival, the W Shanghai has a plum location just north of the Bund, providing stunning views of the Pudong skyline from the outdoor pool deck. A comical touch in the 374 rooms: pillows in the shape of soup dumplings and oversized chopsticks. Doubles from 1,680 renminbi per night.