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法国的可颂面包

更新时间:2017-11-9 11:25:11 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

News of a butter shortage in France spurred newsroom chatter about one of the country’s signature treats: the croissant (kwah-SAHN if you want to be French about it).

法国黄油短缺的新闻,激起了本报新闻编辑室里关于该国一种最为标志性点心的讨论:可颂面包(如果你想有一点法国味,这个词念kwah-SAHN)。

The last time we discussed the subject at such length may have been 2013, when the Cronut burst onto the scene, fresh from the New York bakery of Dominique Ansel. (It’s a “Frankenpastry” hybrid that is half croissant, half doughnut.)

上一次我们用如此多的时间讨论这一话题,可能还是在2013年。当时,纽约的面包店Dominique Ansel突然推出了可颂甜甜圈这种新鲜玩意。(那是一种“怪物点心”,是可颂面包和甜甜圈的混合体。)

But the croissant, it turns out, was always a hybrid. According to local lore and “Larousse Gastronomique,” it was created in Budapest in 1686, or Vienna in 1683, to celebrate the defeat of the Ottomans, and was later adopted by the French. The crescent shape, the story goes, was inspired by the Ottoman flag.

但原来,可颂面包一直都是混合的产物。根据当地传说和《法国美食百科全书》(Larousse Gastronomique),它于1686年在布达佩斯,或1683年在维也纳为了庆祝打败奥斯曼人被发明了出来,后来被法国人引入。据说,这种半月状的外形灵感来源于奥斯曼国旗。

We asked the head of our Cooking department, Sam Sifton, for a recipe — but it turns out, we’re still working on one. “We haven’t yet developed one that’s really, truly accessible to the home cook,” he told us. “Croissants are hard!”

我们向时报烹饪部门的负责人萨姆·思夫顿(Sam Sifton)要了一份食谱——但结果,我们还在做可颂面包的食谱。“我们还没能研究出来一个能真正适用于家庭烘培的方子,”他对我们说。“可颂面包很难做!”

Here’s his advice: “We find the best ones we can at the bakery, eat a few and let the rest go a little stale, so we can use them in Melissa Clark’s incredible recipe for a buttery breakfast casserole. It may be the highest use of a croissant in the world.”

这是他的建议:“我们在面包店里找了能找到最棒的可颂面包,吃了几个,然后把其他的放得不新鲜了,这样才能被用在梅丽莎·克拉克(Melissa Clark)美味无比的黄油早餐砂锅菜食谱里。这可能是全世界可颂面包利用率最高的一道菜了。”

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