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印度“罗密欧与朱丽叶”:当佛教徒与穆斯林相爱

更新时间:2017-10-14 11:39:33 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

On the Run for Love: Couple Bridges a Buddhist-Muslim Divide
印度“罗密欧与朱丽叶”:当佛教徒与穆斯林相爱

LADAKH REGION, India — In front of a tin-roofed house with the Himalaya Mountains rising behind it, about 300 wedding guests waited on a big green lawn, eager for the arrival of the bride and groom.

印度拉达克山区——这是一栋锡皮屋顶的房子,其后是巍峨的喜马拉雅山脉,300多名婚礼宾客聚集在房子前面的绿色草坪上,热切期待着新娘与新郎的到来。

As the couple appeared, the guests formed a happy scrum around them, whisking them through the doorway and into the house. The rooms smelled of the coming feast: tandoori chicken, salty tea, fresh rolls and succulent goat meat cooked in yogurt and spices.

这对新人终于出现了,客人们欢快地围绕在他们周围,簇拥着他们走过门前的道路,进入房子。屋子里可以闻到香味,盛宴就要上桌了:坦都里烤鸡、咸茶、新鲜肉卷,还有用酸奶和香料烹制的嫩山羊肉。

But the bride’s entire family was conspicuously missing from the party.

但引人瞩目的是,新娘的所有家人都没有出席这场聚会。

The bride, Stanzin Saldon, is from a Buddhist family, and the groom, Murtaza Agha, is a Muslim. Both grew up in Ladakh, a remote region of Jammu and Kashmir state in India. So what happens around here when a Buddhist woman falls for a Muslim man? Chaos.

新娘斯坦辛·萨尔顿(Stanzin Saldon)来自一个佛教家庭,新郎穆尔塔扎·阿迦(Murtaza Agha)则是穆斯林。拉达克是位于印度查谟和克什米尔邦的一个偏远地区,两人都在这里长大。在这个地方,如果一个信仰佛教的女人爱上一个穆斯林男子会发生什么事?答案就是:混乱。

The young couple’s romance has spawned protests, shut down businesses, caused fistfights and pitted Muslim and Buddhist leaders against each other. The police have been forced to intervene, and so have the courts.

这对年轻夫妇的恋情引发了抗议活动,导致企业关闭和斗殴事件,令穆斯林和佛教领袖互相攻讦。警方和法院被迫进行干预。

For several days the two even had to go on the run. They drove around the nearby Kashmir Valley, which is crawling with militants and soldiers, worried sick about being caught together.

两人甚至被迫逃亡了几天。他们开车在附近充斥着武装分子与士兵的克什米尔河谷一带徘徊,担心被人抓到他俩在一起。

But Saldon, flush with fresh love, would do it all over again. “We found peace in a conflict region,” she said earnestly.

但是,萨尔顿脸上洋溢着爱情的喜悦,就算一切重来一次她也心甘情愿。“我们在一个冲突地区找到了和平,”她热切地说。

The Buddhist-Muslim divide seems to be getting sharper in this part of the world. Neighboring Bangladesh is struggling to absorb hundreds of thousands of Muslim Rohingyas, an ethnic group from Myanmar, who recently fled atrocities by Myanmar’s military and Buddhist majority.

在这个地方,佛教徒与穆斯林之间的鸿沟似乎越来越深。邻近的孟加拉国正在努力接收数十万来自缅甸的穆斯林罗辛亚人,最近,由于缅甸军人和占多数的佛教徒的暴行,罗辛亚族人开始逃离那个国家。

But to Saldon, 30, and Agha, 32, none of this mattered.

但是对于30岁的萨尔顿和32岁的阿迦来说,这一切都不重要。

Theirs is a Ladakh love affair, through and through. They met on a college trekking trip to the Himalayas. They kept in touch. Agha, a government engineer, and Saldon, a social worker, both lived in the city of Jammu, south of Ladakh, and they couldn’t stop calling each other for coffee and lunch. Saldon said she could feel herself falling in love with the soft-spoken and gentle-mannered Agha. But she kept it a secret.

这是一桩拉达克恋情,从一开始就是如此。他俩在大学组织的一次喜马拉雅山徒步旅行中相遇。之后就一直保持联系。阿迦是工程师,在政府部门工作,萨尔顿则是社会工作者,两人都住在拉达克南部的查谟市,他们情不自禁地总是给对方打电话,约对方出来喝咖啡、吃午饭。萨尔顿说,她可以感觉到自己爱上了柔声细语、性情温和的阿迦。但她一直保守着这个秘密。

After she was nearly killed in a rickshaw accident, though, she recalled, “It was Murtaza’s face that floated before my eyes. I decided life was too short and I should confess my love.”

后来她遭遇了一场三轮车车祸,差点死去,但她回忆说:“那个时候,穆尔塔扎的面孔浮现在我眼前。我觉得人生苦短,我应该坦白自己的爱。”

Agha, who grew up in Kargil, couldn’t have been happier.

在格尔吉尔长大的阿迦知道后高兴极了。

But when he told his family he wanted to marry a Buddhist girl from Leh, his father’s response was: Impossible.

但是当他告诉家人,自己想娶一个来自列城的佛教女孩时,父亲的回答是:不可能。

“Why marry a Leh girl?” his family kept asking. There were so many more Muslim options.

“为什么要娶一个列城女孩?”他的家人一直追问。明明有那么多穆斯林女孩可供选择。

In July 2016, with help from one of Agha’s uncles, the couple held a very small private wedding under a clear blue sky by one of Kargil’s sparkling mountain streams.

2016年7月,在阿迦一个叔叔的帮助下,这对夫妇在格尔吉尔清澈的蓝天之下,在一条波光粼粼的山间小溪旁边,举行了一场非常小的秘密婚礼。

Then they went back to their jobs, the world oblivious to their relationship. They maintained separate homes, planning to one day unite.

然后他们就回去工作了,整个世界都没有注意到他们的关系。他们维持着各自的家,计划总有一天能搬到一起。

But soon their family members found out. While Agha’s people took it in stride, Saldon’s went berserk. They pulled her out of Jammu and locked her in the family home in Leh. Her father spat in her face, and later called on shamans to perform ceremonies to try to make her forget about Agha, she said.

但双方家人不久后就发现了他们的关系。阿迦的家人最终宽容地对待了这件事,萨尔顿的家人却狂怒不已。他们把她从查谟带回来,锁在列城的家里。她说,她的父亲冲她脸上吐口水,后来又找萨满举行仪式,试图让她忘记阿迦。

Saldon said she lost 20 pounds. She was heartsick to be away from Agha and terrified of her father, who kept screaming at her.

萨尔顿说她体重减轻了20磅。离开阿迦让她伤心欲绝,她也害怕父亲,他一直在冲她尖叫。

“I was totally cut off from the outside world,” she said. “I feared death as my father shouted, ‘Why did you not die no sooner than you were born?”’

“我被彻底同外界隔绝,”她说。“我父亲大叫,‘你为什么没有一生下来就死掉?’让我怕得要命。”

One morning she sneaked out. She knew her family would chase her, so she went to court and won a restraining order demanding that they leave her alone.

一天早晨,她逃了出来。她知道家人会追捕她,所以去法庭申请了禁制令,要求他们远离她。

But the problem was bigger than her family now, and things in Leh were about to get sticky.

但是现在的问题已经远不止于她的家人,列城的局面也开始变得棘手起来。

The Buddhist community association was so outraged by the relationship, and the fact that Saldon had fled, that it sent young men stomping through Leh’s main bazaar, demanding that all the shopkeepers help bring her back. Buddhist toughs threatened taxi drivers and merchants from Kargil, telling them they weren’t allowed to work in Leh. A few men got into fistfights — all over a couple most of them didn’t even know.

佛教社区协会对他们的恋情感到愤怒,萨尔顿的逃跑刺激一些年轻男人冲进列城的主要集市,要求所有的店主都帮忙把她找回来。佛教暴徒威胁来自格尔吉尔的出租车司机和商人,告诉他们不许在列城工作。有些男人互相斗殴——这一切都是为了一对大多数人根本就不认识的情侣。

Harsh Malhotra, chief coordinator for the Love Commandos, a voluntary Indian organization that helps couples fight off arranged marriages and deal with harassment from their families, said this case was getting attention across the country. But he wasn’t surprised.

“爱情突击队”(Love Commandos)是印度的一个志愿者组织,专门帮助情侣反抗包办婚姻,并处理双方家人的骚扰,其首席协调员哈什·马尔霍特拉(Harsh Malhotra)表示,这一案例吸引了全国各地的关注。但他并不对此感到惊讶。

“Just as the Ganges flows freely, so, too, lovers of any caste, creed and sect,” he said.

“正如恒河自由自在地流淌,任何种姓、信仰与教派的恋人也会自由自在地相爱,”他说。

This Ladakhi version of Romeo and Juliet was easy to politicize, he said, because the couple came from middle-class backgrounds and were perfect fodder for “those who consider themselves to be the self-appointed guardians of culture and society.”

他说,这对拉达克的罗密欧与朱丽叶很容易被政治化,因为他们有着中产阶级背景,为那些“自封为文化与社会的捍卫者们”提供了完美的靶子。

Leh has since calmed down. But the episode has put a little extra steam in the quest by some of Leh’s Buddhists to get more autonomy for the Ladakh region.

列城已经平静下来。但是,列城有一些佛教徒一直在谋求为拉达克地区争取更多的自治权,这场风波为他们增添了更多动力。

As for the couple, they seem to have weathered this unscathed. She is hoping her parents will come around someday soon and welcome her and her husband with a hug.

至于这对夫妻,他们似乎毫发无损地度过了困境。萨尔顿希望父母能在不久的将来回心转意,用拥抱迎接她和她的丈夫。

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