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在东京,与古董表藏家聊聊手腕上的故事

更新时间:2017-9-28 12:00:20 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

In Tokyo, Stories on Their Wrists
在东京,与古董表藏家聊聊手腕上的故事

When it comes to describing food, fashion or culture in Tokyo, fans often find themselves using superlatives. And the vintage watch scene is much the same: Tokyo is one of the best places in the world to hunt for classic treasures. The city is filled with secondhand shops and most of the pre-owned timepieces on sale are in pristine condition.

在描述东京的食物、时尚或文化时,粉丝们经常不吝溢美之词。古董表市场也差不多:东京是世界上寻找经典手表的最佳地点之一。这座城市里有很多二手店,大部分古董时计都是在未经翻新的状态下出售的。

But insiders looking for vintage come to Jack Road in the Nakano ward, a crowded residential district just west of the trendy Shinjuku area. There, on the third floor of a covered shopping arcade lined with fragrant takoyaki stalls, ramen shops and eclectic clothing boutiques, is Nakano Broadway, a manga emporium and favorite of pop-culture obsessed youth. It also is a treasure chest for watch collectors, and a prime place to talk with vintage enthusiasts.

但是,搜寻古董手表的行家里手会造访中野区的店铺杰克路(Jack Road)。中野区是一个拥挤的住宅区,位于时尚的新宿区的西面。杰克路位于中野百老汇(Nakano Broadway)三楼,那是一个有顶盖的购物中心,排列着香气扑鼻的章鱼丸摊位、拉面馆和五花八门的服装精品店,这里是一个动漫商场,深受迷恋流行文化的年轻人喜爱。它也是手表藏家的宝库,是和古董表爱好者聊天的最佳场所。

Ryuji Sakimae

佐喜真隆二(Ryuji Sakimae,音)

Occupation: Business owner

职业:企业主

Watch: Rolex Submariner Reference 5512 (1968)

手表:劳力士Submariner Reference5512(1968)

I’m fascinated with vintage watches and their condition, color, history, individuality. Looks don’t matter as much, but they contain many stories that you’ll just never know about and that’s very appealing to me.

我着迷于古董表和它们的品相、颜色、历史、个性。外观相对不重要,但它们身上有很多你永远不会知道的故事,这对我非常有吸引力。

This watch, the color is so amazing — this model is in such good condition. I thought, this is my last chance to find a watch in this condition. It was striking to me because it’s vintage. My heart got a spark when I saw it but I cannot really pinpoint why exactly I fell for it. I never actually intended to buy this particular watch, but my instinct told me that’s what I wanted.

这只手表,颜色如此惊人,这一款品相如此之好。我想,这是我能找到这种品相的手表的最后机会了。我很惊讶,因为它是古董表。我看到它时,感觉心被触动了,但是我也说不清为什么会迷上它。我没有买这只特别手表的计划,但是我的本能告诉我,这就是我想要的东西。

Watch lovers notice my watch and comment on it, but people who are not into watches think I’m foolish to wear something so expensive and so old, especially. Some people only think about the fact that it’s old and don’t consider the value — they don’t understand, and they worry about the maintenance costs associated to vintage watches. For them, old and expensive doesn’t make any sense. I chose this because I felt inspired by it, and I don’t care what people say or think.

爱表一族会注意到我的手表并评论一番,但不喜欢表的人会觉得我傻,戴这么贵,还这么旧的东西。一些人只想到了它旧这个事实,没有考虑到它的价值。他们不懂,担心古董表带来的维护费用。对他们来说,旧和贵不搭界。选择这款表是因为我觉得它给了我灵感,我不在乎别人怎么说或怎么想。

I’m attracted to the flavor of vintage watches, to their essence. I can’t really describe what makes this essence, but there is nothing that compares to vintage watches. I will continue to wear this watch for a very long time. The best thing about owning a vintage watch is that there is only one in the world with that particular story.

我被古董表的韵味和精髓所吸引。我真的说不出是什么成就了这种精髓,但没什么能和古董表相提并论。我会继续长期戴这块表。拥有一块古董表最棒的一点在于,世界上有着那个特定故事的表仅有一块。

Kenichi Abe

安倍健一(Kenichi Abe,音)

Occupation: Store Manager

职业:店铺经理

Watch: Rolex GMT Master (1982)

手表:劳力士GMT Master(1982)

I chose this watch because of the colors. This part here on the dial is actually gold but it faded a bit. I like that it faded out though, it really gives it a more vintage feel. The dial is a deep chocolate brown; I think this is so cool, so beautiful. The mood of this watch matches my personality very well.

我选这块表是因为它的颜色。表盘的这一部分其实是金色,但有点褪色了。尽管褪色了,实际上却会让它有更古老的感觉,我喜欢。表盘是深巧克力棕色,我觉得这个颜色很酷,很漂亮。这块表的风格非常适合我的个性。

I’ve been attracted to vintage watches for a long time. I used to sell an array of vintage goods, such as American antiques. I remember the first Rolex watch I acquired — that’s when I discovered this whole world of vintage watches. At that time, I was also into vintage clothes so it all fit really well.

我喜欢古董手表很长时间了。我过去卖过很多古董,比如美国古董。我记得自己买的第一块劳力士。就是那个时候,我发现了古董表的世界。那时候我也喜欢古旧服饰,所以真的很搭。

Vintage watches are first and foremost a fashion item for me, a good match to my personal style. The new watches are missing that essence, so they don’t compare. Vintage watches have existed for many years, so they become more fashionable with time. For me, the history really matters, as each vintage watch tells a story. And to own that history is something very important to me. And to continue the history of this watch, to take it into the future and to create even more history is a very romantic idea to me. I want to leave this watch in good condition to pass it down to the next generation.

对我来说,古董表首先是一种时尚单品,很符合我个人的风格。新表少了那种精髓,所以不能与之相提并论。古董表存在很多年了,因此它们会随着时间的推移而变得更加受欢迎。对我来说,历史真的很重要,因为每一块古董表都有自己的故事。拥有那段历史对我来说非常重要。而继续这块表的历史,让它走向未来并创造更多的历史,对我来说是一个非常浪漫的想法。我希望把这块表保存完好,传给下一代。

Yushi Higaki

桧垣裕志(Yushi Higaki)

Occupation: Soccer Coach

职业:足球教练

Watch: Omega Speedmaster Professional 145.022 (late 1960s)

手表:欧米茄(Omega)Speedmaster Professional 145.022(20世纪60年代末)

Vintage watches are usually in mint condition in Japan. Like most other vintage items, people tend to take good care of their possessions. When I wear my watch out, I always protect my wrist in crowded trains. Or when I go out drinking in a bar, I’m careful not to damage it. I move my body accordingly as to not touch others with my watch and damage it — maybe because I’m a soccer player. I feel worried to wear some of my vintage watches on a daily basis, they’re so easily damaged, so some of them I just keep in display cases in my house and I look at them. They’re like pieces of art for me.

在日本,古董表常常完好无损。和其他大部分古董物品一样,人们往往会小心保护自己的手表。戴表出门时,我总是会在拥挤的火车上护住自己的手腕。或者去酒吧喝酒时,我会小心翼翼,避免划伤它。为了不让表因为碰到其他人而受损,我会相应地移动身体——也许因为我是踢足球的。天天戴古董表我会感到担心,它们太容易受损,因此我只能把其中一些放在家里的陈列柜里,用来观赏。对我来说,他们就像艺术品一样。

Just like human beings, vintage watches have their own history, so I enjoy that part. I’ve been searching for my best watch in the 200-plus I’ve owned, but I’m still looking for it. Maybe next year I’ll change my mind though, and I won’t find a better one. Or maybe I haven’t met my best watch yet — the quest is ongoing and that’s what I enjoy the most. I’m always searching for something.

就像人一样,古董表有自己的历史,我很喜欢这一点。我一直在自己的200多块古董表里寻找最好的那一块,但直到现在都还没找到。也许明年我就改变主意了,找不到更好的了。也或许我还没碰到最好的那一块。寻找仍在继续,这是我最喜欢的。我总是在寻找。

Vintage watches make me feel more calm than digital ones. My feelings are very high and at the same time, they give me good vibes. This watch brings back memories of when I was in my 20s living in Brazil, so it’s a nice feeling. Since I played soccer in Brazil, and discovered vintage watches at that time. It led me to where I am now, so it’s all associated to memories and that’s important to me.

古董表比数字手表更能让我感到平静。与此同时,我的情绪昂扬,它们会给我带来好心情。这块表让我想起了自己20多岁时在巴西生活的那段回忆,这种感觉很好。因为我在巴西踢过球,也是在那时发现古董手表的。它引领我成为了现在的自己,因此它和记忆联系在一起,这对我来说很重要。

Chisato Kato

加户千里(Chisato Kato,音)

Occupation: Web director

职业:网络总监

Watch: Christian Dior for Bulova (1972)

手表:Christian Dior for Bulova(1972)

When my mother got married, her two brothers gave her that watch, which she passed down to me five years ago. The first time I encountered a vintage watch, I was charmed by how I had to wind it up, and by the ticking sound it made when I put it up close to my ear. I love listening to that sound.

我母亲结婚时,她的两个兄弟送了这块表给她。五年前,她传给了我。第一次看到古董表时,我就被要怎么给它上发条,和我把它拿到耳朵跟前时听到的滴答声迷住了。我喜欢听那种声音。

Nowadays there is a lot of fast fashion, people buy it and throw it away so quickly, but vintage watches are so different. They are a useful item, and they’re something you keep in the long term and you can pass it down to the next generation. I never sold any of my vintage watches. They were mostly all gifts, and I intend to keep them forever.

现如今有很多快时尚,人们买得快,扔得也快,但古董表截然不同。它们是有用的东西,你会长期保留,还可以传给下一代。我从来没有卖过一块古董表。它们几乎都是礼物,我打算一直留着。

When it comes to choosing a vintage watch, the appearance is my priority but of course it’s nice to know and imagine what kind of person used to wear it, so I like the story behind it. I like to imagine the background, the life of the person who used to wear it — it all feels so sentimental. The reason why I don’t sell my watches is because I create memories through those watches, so I want to keep them and carry the memories of the person who previously owned it. It’s a precious item.

说到挑选古董表,外观是我优先考虑的,但知道和想象什么人戴过它当然也很重要,所以说我喜欢它们背后的故事。我喜欢想象它以前的主人的历史和生活——感觉充斥着情感。我不卖表是因为我会通过这些表创造回忆,所以我希望留着它们,并传递它之前的主人的记忆。这很宝贵。

Shigeko Homma

本间成子(Shigeko Homma,音)

Occupation: Office Worker

职业:办公室职员

Watch: Cartier (1920s)

手表:卡地亚(1920年代)

My priority when choosing a vintage watch is the look and the style. Vintage watches are an accessory that I can match to my clothes or to the kimono I choose to wear on any given day. A vintage watch is a must-have item — a necessity! It’s also a treasure.

选择古董表的时候,我最看重外观和风格。古董表这种配饰,可以用来搭配我随便哪一天的着装或者选择穿上身的和服。一块古董表是必备品——必不可少!它也是一件珍宝。

I believe there are watches that should only be worn with kimono and others only with casual clothes. For work, I wear regular clothes, but when I go out at night I wear kimono — I often wear it. Kimono is more comfortable than normal clothes for me, especially in summer. I don’t think most women who wear kimono care to match their watch to their kimono. For me though, it’s very important. I don’t even know or care about the brand of the watches — only the look matters.

我认为有些手表只能配和服,还有一些只能配便装。上班时我会穿常规服装,但晚上出门时我会穿和服——我经常穿和服。在我看来,和服比常规服装更舒适,尤其是在夏天。我觉得大多数穿和服的女性都不会刻意戴上与和服相配的手表。但对我来说,这很重要。我甚至不知道也不关心手表的牌子——只要外观匹配就行。

This one is Cartier? I didn’t even know! I picked it solely based on what it looks like.

这块是卡地亚(Cartier)?我根本不知道!我挑了它完全是基于它的样子。

This watch is from the 1920s. I don’t have any special stories about my vintage watches and I’m honestly not all that interested in their background. I mostly care about their beauty and appearance!

这块表来自1920年代。我的古董表都没什么特别的故事,说老实话我对它们的背景也不感兴趣。我最关心的是它们的美感和外表。

I never purposely look for vintage watches to buy, they just come to me. Sometimes I pass the shop and one jumps to my eyes. I know right away when I see a watch I love, I say to myself, “This is mine!”

我从未刻意去买古董表,只是和它们不期而遇。有时我经过一个店铺,一块表恰好映入眼帘。看到自己喜欢的手表时,我立刻就会知道。我对自己说,“这块表是我的!”

I could not tell you exactly what style I go for, but I just know instinctively what I love. I just know.

我无法确切告诉你我喜欢什么风格,但我凭直觉知道自己喜欢什么。我就是知道。

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