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探访罗辛亚难民营:我能做的只有记录他们的苦难

更新时间:2017-9-19 18:34:18 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Walking the Line Between Covering a Rohingya Refugee Story and Changing It
探访罗辛亚难民营:我能做的只有记录他们的苦难

Noor slid to the ground. “It seems I will die here,” he said, with an almost clinical detachment. “I will die in this place.”

努尔(Noor)滑到地上。“看来我要死在这里了,”他近乎无动于衷地说。“要死在这个地方了。”

Minutes before, in the Balukhali refugee camp in Bangladesh, Noor had tapped my shoulder. It was an unusual sensation in a Muslim community where men and women keep to themselves.

几分钟前,在孟加拉国的Balukhali难民营,努尔拍了拍我的肩膀。在这个男女避免接触的穆斯林群体中,这是一个不同寻常,会引发轰动的举动。

I turned around, and he showed me his bullet wound. Bruises mottled his body. Noor’s story was consistent with many I had heard from refugees fleeing Myanmar, a mass exodus of at least 400,000 Rohingya that began toward the end of August and that the United Nations on Monday labeled a “textbook example of ethnic cleansing.”

我转过身,他给我看他的枪伤。他身上的淤伤呈斑驳状。努尔的故事和我从逃离缅甸的难民口中听来的很多故事一致。这场大规模逃亡始于8月底,至少涉及40万罗辛亚人。联合国周一称其是“教科书式的种族清洗范例”。

The 25-year-old farmer was in his fields in Maungdaw Township when the Myanmar military descended. The village men, and even some of the boys, were beaten, then told to run. Some made it, others didn’t. Noor was lucky. A bullet only grazed his right shoulder. He could still walk after his beating.

缅甸军队到来时,这个25岁的农民正在貌夺镇(Maungdaw Township)的自家田地里。村里的男人,甚至包括一些男孩,遭到毒打,然后军队让他们向前跑。一些人成功了,一些人没有。努尔是幸运的。一颗子弹只是擦伤了右肩膀。挨过打后,他还能走。

But days of trekking through jungle on the way to Bangladesh had broken his body.

但在去孟加拉国的路上,要在热带丛林里长途跋涉数天。这拖垮了他的身体。

Refugee camps are overflowing with Rohingya in need, hands outstretched for food or water or lifesaving medicine. You cannot help everyone, so you walk on, promising yourself that documenting their suffering is a form of aid.

难民营里挤满了需要帮助的罗辛亚人,他们伸出手索要食物、水或救命的药物。你无法帮到每个人,于是只能继续走,希望记录他们的苦难也是一种援助形式。

On Aug. 29, the day before I traveled to Bangladesh, I stood in my new apartment in Bangkok — where I’d just moved to begin work as The Times’s Southeast Asia bureau chief — surrounded by boxes of possessions I did not need or even remember that my family owned: too many glasses for liqueurs I do not drink, mildewed paperbacks, Legos chewed by the dog.

8月29日,也就是去孟加拉国的前一天,我站在自己位于曼谷的新公寓——我刚搬去那里,开始担任时报东南亚分社社长——被一箱箱我不需要,甚至都不记得我家有过的物品包围:太多用来喝我不喝的烈性甜酒的玻璃杯、发霉的平装书和被狗啃过的乐高玩具。

Two days later, I stood in a creek near Bangladesh’s border with Myanmar, as a never-ending column of barefoot humanity trudged through the water. Many people carried nothing but babies too traumatized to make any noise.

两天后,我站在孟缅边界附近的一条小溪里,一支源源不绝的光脚队伍步履沉重地涉水而过。很多人除了婴孩外,什么都没带。而因为受到太多惊吓,这些孩子没有发出任何声音。

Other Rohingya, who had only a few moments to prepare before the Myanmar military burned down their houses, balanced bamboo poles on their shoulders, heavy with sleeping mats, water jugs and solar panels.

还有罗辛亚人肩上挑着竹竿,上面挂着床席、水壶和太阳能电池板,分量沉重。在缅甸军队烧毁他们的房屋之前,他们只有片刻的准备时间。

I thought about what I would take from home if I could only grab a few things: some antiques, perhaps, photos not on the Cloud, and all-important documents.

我想过如果只能从家里匆匆拿走几样东西,我会拿什么:也许会拿一些古董,以及没有存在云端的照片和非常重要的文件。

Most Rohingya, however, have been rendered stateless by the Myanmar government, which seems to be using a Rohingya militant attack on police posts and an army base three weeks ago to justify a campaign to rid the country of this long-persecuted minority.

然而,缅甸政府没有给大部分罗辛亚人国籍。缅甸政府似乎正在利用罗辛亚中的激进分子三周前对多个警察据点和一个陆军基地发起的武装攻击,来为一场意在把这个长期遭受迫害的少数群体从缅甸赶走的运动辩解。

Their licenses, diplomas and other paperwork mean nothing to officialdom. Besides, you cannot eat documents. Live chickens and bags of rice are more sustaining.

对官方来说,他们手中的许可证、文凭和其他文件都毫无意义。此外,文件又不能拿来吃。活鸡和一袋袋的大米更能提供营养。

Noor, shivering and taking shallow breaths, was convinced he was dying. I’m no doctor, but having covered conflict, I knew his condition was grave. We had a car and could take him to a clinic. Maybe reporters aren’t supposed to change the story, but this was not one that I wanted to end with yet another Rohingya death.

身体发抖、呼吸短促的努尔确信自己要死了。我不是医生,但我报道过冲突,知道他的情况严重。我们有车,可以送他去看医生。也许记者不该改变故事,但我不想用又一个罗辛亚人的死亡作为这个故事的结局。

Noor refused to go. He had fled without his wife. One of the last things he heard from his village was the screams of women dragged away by soldiers and vigilantes. Noor had no idea if his wife had been raped or killed.

努尔拒绝去诊所。他是一个人逃出来的,没跟妻子一起。他最后听到的村里传出的声音之一,是被士兵和联防队员拖走的女人发出的尖叫声。努尔不知道妻子是否被强奸或杀害了。

The morning of the day we met, he had finally heard that she was in another refugee settlement in Bangladesh. She might come by the next morning.

在我们见面的那天早上,他终于听说她在孟加拉国的另一个集中营。她可能会在第二天早上过来。

So Noor bought tarp and bamboo. He lashed them together. The effort drained the little energy he had left, but he wanted to make a home for his wife.

于是,努尔买来了柏油帆布和竹子,并把它们捆在一起。这用尽了他仅剩的那点力气,但他想给妻子营造一个家。

He could not bear the idea of going to the hospital without seeing her again.

他接受不了不再见她一面就去医院这个主意。

My Bangladeshi colleague, AKM Moinuddin — who speaks a language very similar to Rohingya and helped with translations during the week I was there — pleaded with him. The photographer Adam Dean suggested that Noor would be more useful to his wife alive than dead.

我的孟加拉国同事AKM·莫因丁(AKM Moinuddin)——莫因丁会说一种和罗辛亚人的语言非常相近的语言,我在孟加拉国的一周里他一直帮我翻译——求他去医院。摄影师亚当·迪恩(Adam Dean)也说,努尔活着比死了更能帮助妻子。

A crowd formed, as it invariably does in a refugee camp. Dozens of people concurred: Noor should not die here, slumped in a mud puddle. An imam showed up and exercised his authority.

人群聚集起来,难民营里一贯如此。数十人一致认为:努尔不应该躺在泥水坑里死在这儿。一名伊玛目出来行使了他的权力。

We put Noor in our car and rushed to the clinic.

我们让努尔坐进车里,奔向诊所。

“Mother, mother,” he repeated, as his eyes rolled back in pain. “Mother, mother, help me.”

“妈,妈,”他重复着,痛苦地翻着白眼。“妈,妈,帮帮我。”

Half an hour later, he disappeared into the clinic. I did not see him again.

半小时后,他消失在了诊所里。我再没见过他。

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