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兄弟之争,炸豆丸子之争

更新时间:2017-9-9 11:29:49 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

In Land of Many Rivalries, New One Bubbles Up: Falafel vs. Falafel
兄弟之争,炸豆丸子之争

BEIRUT, Lebanon —“Falafel Sahyoun” reads the awning of one storefront.

黎巴嫩贝鲁特——一个店面的凉蓬上写着:“萨约炸豆丸子店”(Falafel Sahyoun)。

“Falafel Sahyoun” reads the awning of the other.

另一个店面的凉蓬上也写着:“萨约炸豆丸子店”。

They’re right next to each other. Only a wall separates the two.

两家店紧挨着。只有一面墙隔开。

And little sets them apart.

它们几乎没有什么任何区别。

Both have bright tube lights, mirrors on the walls, falafel balls bubbling in oil. And on both counters sit stacks of bread, plus shiny steel bowls of radish, parsley and a sauce of pounded sesame, known as tarator.

都有明亮的灯管,墙上都有镜子,豆丸子都在油里翻滚。两家的柜台上都有一堆皮塔饼,闪亮的不锈钢碗里都有萝卜、欧芹以及一种名叫tarator的芝麻酱。

The menus are even identical.

甚至连菜单都一样。

Regular sandwich.

普通三明治。

Sandwich extra.

加大三明治。

Falafel dozen.

一打炸豆丸子。

Small tarator.

小份芝麻酱。

Large tarator.

大份芝麻酱

Soft drinks.

软饮。

Yogurt.

酸奶。

But the rivalry runs deep. It is a rivalry as old as any in this part of the world: Brother against brother, falafel against falafel.

不过,他们的夙怨很深。和世界这个角落的其他夙怨一样久远:兄弟之争,炸豆丸子之争。

“My brother? I want him to stay away from me,” says Zuheir Sahyoun, the elder of the Falafel Sahyoun brothers, his chef’s shirt opened midway to his belly, on a steamy afternoon.

“我弟弟?我想让他滚远点,”萨约炸豆丸子店兄弟中的哥哥祖海尔·萨约(Zuheir Sahyoun)说。那是一个闷热的下午,他的厨师服敞开到肚子那儿。

“I don’t have a brother anymore,” says Fuad Sahyoun, the younger, next door.

“我没有哥哥了,”隔壁的弟弟福阿德·萨约(Fuad Sahyoun)说。

Once, there was only one Falafel Sahyoun. It was established by their father, Mustapha Sahyoun, on Damascus Street, just above downtown.

曾经,只有一家萨约炸丸子店。那是他们的父亲穆斯塔法·萨约(Mustapha Sahyoun)在市中心的大马士革街开设的。

Falafel was considered a working man’s lunch, and Falafel Sahyoun catered to everyone.

炸豆丸子曾被视为工人的午餐,萨约炸丸子店为所有人服务。

Mounjad al-Sharif was a child then. On school holidays, he and his friends would come for a falafel sandwich, see a movie at the Automatique, and if they had money left, ride the tram home.

当时,穆贾德·阿尔-沙里夫(Mounjad al-Sharif)还是个孩子。学校放假时,他和朋友们会来买炸丸子三明治,去Automatique看电影,兜里还剩钱的话,就坐有轨电车回家。

Beirut’s long, bitter civil war killed Falafel Sahyoun. The store shut down in 1978, when the fighting got bad, and this part of the city became the front line of a divided city, where rival militias installed their snipers.

贝鲁特漫长痛苦的内战扼杀了萨约炸豆丸子店。1978年战事正酣时,这家店关闭,这片地区成为了这座分裂城市的前线,敌对的民兵组织在这里部署了狙击手。

The year the shop closed, Mustapha Sahyoun died. The tram line is long gone, and so too the Automatique.

店铺关门那年,穆斯塔法·萨约去世了。电车早就没了,Automatique也是。

Falafel Sahyoun reopened in 1992, after the war ended — only to split in two in 2006, when Fuad Sahyoun broke away. He refuses to explain why, saying only that it was for his own “peace of mind.”

1992年战争结束后,萨约炸丸子店重新开张。2006年,福阿德·萨约离开后,这家店一分为二。他拒绝解释原因,只说是为了自己“心灵的宁静”。

Zuheir Sahyoun points to his brother’s wife. “Pillow murmuring,” Zuheir grumbles. “His woman.”

祖海尔·萨约认为是弟媳的缘故。“枕边风,”祖海尔咕哝道,“他的女人。”

“My business hasn’t been affected,” Zuheir quickly adds. “I have the same clients. More.”

“我的生意没受影响,”祖海尔很快又说。“那些老顾客还来我这儿。顾客更多了。”

Zuheir’s shop bears a blue crown as its logo. Fuad’s has a yellow crown.

祖海尔的店铺用一个蓝色皇冠作商标。福阿德的是黄色皇冠。

At lunchtime, people drive up to one or the other. They take away bags of sandwiches, or they scarf them down sitting behind their steering wheels.

午餐时间,人们驱车来到这家或那家。他们带走一袋袋三明治,或者坐在方向盘前狼吞虎咽。

Zuheir insists that his is the original shop, and that he uses his father’s original recipe. He keeps a photo of his father behind the cash register. “Tell your driver, ‘Sahyoun,’ and he’ll know exactly where to bring you,” he says.

祖海尔坚称自己的店是原来的店,他用的是父亲最初的配方。他保留了收银台后面父亲的一张照片。“你跟司机说‘萨约’,他准确地知道该把你带到哪儿,”他说。

Fuad dismisses the shop next door as “a fossil.”

福阿德说隔壁的店铺是“化石”。

He hangs a photo of the singer Bryan Adams, eating his falafel sandwich.

他挂了一张歌手布莱恩·亚当斯(Bryan Adams)吃他的炸豆丸子三明治的照片。

Across the street still stands an old office building, hollowed out by the war, its blown-out windows like mouths gaping at Falafel Sahyoun and Falafel Sahyoun.

街对面的旧写字楼依然伫立着,它被战争掏空了,炸毁的窗户像张开的大嘴,冲着这两家萨约炸豆丸子店。

Mr. Sharif, now a documentary filmmaker, still comes regularly, but only to Fuad’s shop. The falafels here are lighter and better for the stomach, he maintains, and worth an extra 500 Lebanese pounds.

沙里夫现在是纪录片导演,依然经常来这儿,不过他只去福阿德的店。他觉得这里的炸豆丸子油更少,对胃更好,多花500黎巴嫩镑也值得。

That is one difference between the shops. Zuheir’s regular sandwich costs 3,000 Lebanese pounds, equivalent to $2. Fuad’s is 3,500 Lebanese pounds. Fuad’s regular sandwich also has four falafel balls, while Zuheir’s has three.

这两家店有一个区别。祖海尔的普通三明治定价3000黎巴嫩镑,相当于两美元。而福阿德的定价是3500黎巴嫩镑,不过他的三明治里有四个炸豆丸子,祖海尔的只有三个。

Would Mr. Sharif consider trying the other Falafel Sahyoun?

沙里夫会考虑尝试去另一家萨约炸豆丸子店吗?

“No. Why to risk?” he asks. He wipes a bit of sauce from the side of his lips and offers a morsel of free advice.

“不会。为什么要冒险呢?”他问道。他擦去唇边的一点酱,免费提供了一点建议。

“There are two things in life: When you want to eat — eat well,” he says. “When you want to enjoy — enjoy. Next week, I don’t know. I may be dead.”

“人生有两件事:想吃的时候,好好吃,”他说。“想玩的时候,好好玩。下周,我不知道。可能我就死了。”

Youmna El Zein, visiting from Senegal with her four children, chooses Zuheir’s shop. Her Lebanese cousins have told her to come to this Sahyoun, she says.

带着四个孩子从塞内加尔来这儿玩的尤姆娜·艾尔扎因(Youmna El Zein)选择了祖海尔的店铺。她说她的黎巴嫩亲戚让她来这家店。

Samir Simon is less fussy. It’s just falafel, he says. “This place, that place — it doesn’t matter to me,” he says. “I go to whichever one. I don’t know the difference. It’s the same thing.”

萨米尔·西蒙(Samir Simon)没那么挑剔。他说,只不过是炸豆丸子而已。“这家店,那家店——对我来说都一样,”他说。“我哪家店都去。我没看出有什么区别。一样的东西。”

The brothers have one thing in common. They are both fond of philosophizing.

这俩兄弟有一个共同点:都喜欢讲大道理。

“The most important thing in life is for the mind to be at peace,” Fuad muses. “If your mind’s not at peace, there’s no point to anything that you do.”

“人生最重要的是心灵平静,”福阿德沉思道。“如果你的心不静,做什么都没意义。”

“Unity makes you stronger,” Zuheir says. When his brother first left, he used to wish they could get back together. “Now I’ve stopped wishing.”

“团结会让你变得更强大,”祖海尔说。弟弟离开之初,他还希望兄弟二人能重归于好。“现在我不抱希望了。”

Lately, the fight has taken a bit of a nasty turn.

最近,斗争变得有点残酷。

Fuad has hung on his storefront an enlarged notice from the health department, penalizing Zuheir’s shop for a code violation. It has a red arrow pointing to Zuheir’s shop. “He plays dirty,” Zuheir says.

福阿德在自己店面前张贴了卫生部门下发的一则公告,是关于惩罚祖海尔的店铺违规行为的。经过放大的公告上有一个红色的箭头,指向祖海尔的店。“他玩阴的,”祖海尔说。

What would he do to avenge his brother’s move? Nothing, Zuheir says and points his index finger up, toward heaven. Then he takes a drag from his cigarette.

他会怎么报复弟弟的这个举动?什么都不做,祖海尔说,并伸出食指指向天空。然后,他抽出一根烟来。

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