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在中国,买奢侈品也能在线下单、送货上门

更新时间:2017-7-31 19:06:14 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

In China, Designer Goods Delivered to Your Doorstep
在中国,买奢侈品也能在线下单、送货上门

BEIJING — In China, legions of delivery personnel power the world’s largest e-commerce boom. Known for their careening three-wheeled carts, they terrorize pedestrians and sometimes dump their packages on doorsteps and desks with the delicacy of a restaurant employee tossing out yesterday’s leftovers.

北京——在中国,快递员大军带动了世界最大的电子商务繁荣。他们以自己的的三轮车而出名,令行人心生恐惧。有时,他们会用餐厅员工倾倒前一天的剩饭剩菜那样的随意性,把包裹扔在门口或桌子上。

Then there is Tang Hongliang, who is part of an ambitious effort to bring some sparkle to the business — and perhaps help revive the fortunes of the world’s makers of high-priced handbags and watches.

唐洪亮(音)不一样。他是一个雄心勃勃的项目的一部分。这个项目意在恢复全球高价手提包和手表制造商的光芒——或许还有财富。

Decked out in a black suit, dark gray tie and white gloves, Mr. Tang does not look like a typical Chinese package courier. Instead of piping hot noodle lunches, he delivers a $2,400 designer handbag. Rather than a three-wheeler, he drives an electric car to transport expensive cargo. In the time he makes one or two deliveries, the typical Chinese courier would have made about 150.

一身黑西装、深灰领带和白手套的打扮,让唐洪亮看上去不像典型的中国快递员。他送的不是热气腾腾的午餐面食,而是一个2400美元(约合1.6万元人民币)的名牌手提包。他用来运输昂贵货物的工具也不是三轮车,而是一辆电动汽车。他用于投递一单或两单货物的时间,中国普通快递员可投递约150单货物。

“Efficiency is of course important,” said Mr. Tang, who works for the online retailer JD.com. “But serving the customer is the most important.”

“效率固然重要,”供职于网络零售商京东的唐洪亮说。“但服务顾客最重要。”

Facing slowing sales, global luxury brands are angling for a piece of China’s e-commerce market, where people are accustomed to buying gadgets and groceries, but not high-priced jewelry and haute couture. Many are unsure, however, about diving headfirst into online retail, because China’s favorite way to shop is also an industry better known for piracy and dusty deliverymen than for shine and polish.

面对销售放缓,全球奢侈品牌正在做出准备,想在中国电商市场分一杯羹。在中国的电商市场上,人们习惯购买小物件和食品杂货,而不是昂贵的珠宝和高级时装。很多人对一头扎进网络零售没有把握,因为中国最喜欢的购物方式,也是一个更多地以盗版和风尘仆仆的快递员而非精致和优雅而闻名的行业。

To court the luxury market, companies like Alibaba and JD.com are using their vast customer base to offer upscale retailers support on issues like digital marketing, pricing, customer services and, in the case of Mr. Tang, delivery.

为了向奢侈品市场示好,阿里巴巴和京东等公司正在利用自己庞大的消费者基础,在数字营销、定价、客户服务,以及以唐洪亮为例的快递等问题上为高端零售商提供支持。

“The most difficult thing to overcome is the experience for the shoppers,” said Xia Ding, president of JD.com’s fashion division. “But because we own the logistics we are really able to deliver luxury goods in a way that makes shoppers feel like they are getting the same special experience as they get offline.”

“最难克服的是消费者的体验,”京东大服饰事业部总裁丁霞说。“但因为我们有自己的物流,所以真的能够做到用送货方式让消费者觉得他们得到的是和线下购物时一样的特殊体验。”

Chinese shoppers have long dominated the global luxury market. In the last two years, a continuing anticorruption campaign and an economic slowdown led to a decline in Chinese demand for luxury, contributing to an overall global slump. Still, last year Chinese shoppers accounted for 30 percent of global luxury purchases, according to a report by Bain & Company.

中国消费者长期主导全球奢侈品市场。过去两年里,仍在继续的反腐运动和经济放缓导致中国对奢侈品的需求降低。这是全球奢侈品市场总体衰退的原因之一。但贝恩咨询公司(Bain & Company)的一份报告显示,去年,中国消费者仍贡献了全球奢侈品采购的30%。

Until recently, however, many Chinese luxury purchases were being made overseas or through daigou — personal shoppers who buy goods abroad and bring them into China, avoiding the country’s hefty taxes. That started to change two years ago when, in an effort to combat gray-market sales, a number of high-end luxury brands led by Chanel took steps to reduce the price gap between goods in China and overseas.

然而,直到最近,中国的很多奢侈品购买都是在海外或是通过代购——采购人员在国外购买商品并带回国,免去了中国的重税——进行的。两年前,当以香奈儿(Chanel)为首的很多高端奢侈品牌为了打击灰色市场销售而采取措施,缩小中国和海外的商品价格差异时,这种情况开始改变。

At about the same time, the Chinese government also stepped up efforts to crack down on daigou shoppers, increasing checks at airports and lowering duties on some luxury goods imported through official channels.

大约在同一时间,中国政府也加大了对代购的打击力度,加强了在机场的检查,并降低了通过官方渠道进口的一些奢侈品的关税。

As a result, brands have seen a shift in luxury shopping habits, with more and more Chinese consumers now choosing to buy at home rather than abroad. This so-called reshoring has caught the attention of Chinese e-commerce companies, causing major players like Alibaba and JD.com, as well as smaller luxury-focused companies like Secoo and Xiu, to invest aggressively in the luxury sphere.

因此,品牌发现,奢侈品购买习惯发生了改变。越来越多的中国消费者现在选择在国内而不是国外购买。这种所谓的回岸引起了中国电商公司的注意,促使阿里巴巴和京东等主要企业,以及专注于奢侈品的寺库网和走秀网等较小的公司大举投资奢侈品领域。

“Mass market brands already know that there is no choice but to be on these e-commerce platforms,” said Liz Flora of L2, a market research company based in New York. “So luxury is really the next frontier for these e-tailers. You can see the competition getting more and more fierce.”

“大众市场品牌已经知道,除了加入这些电商平台外别无选择,”总部设在纽约的市场调研公司L2的利兹·弗洛拉(Liz Flora)说。“因此,奢侈品真的是这些网络零售商的下一个处女地。你能看到竞争越来越激烈。”

In addition to starting the white-glove delivery service, JD.com announced a deal last month to invest $397 million in the luxury e-commerce platform Farfetch, which is based in London. Both Alibaba and JD.com are considering rolling out separate platforms focused exclusively on luxury in the coming months, executives from the companies said in interviews.

除了开始提供高端送货服务外,京东上月还宣布了向总部设在伦敦的奢侈品电商平台Farfetch投资3.97亿美元的交易。阿里巴巴和京东的高管在接受采访时表示,两家公司都在考虑在未来几个月推出专门针对奢侈品的平台。

But so far, China’s e-commerce companies have struggled to persuade top international luxury brands to sell on their platforms. Luxury companies have long been concerned that with e-commerce, it would be impossible to replicate the gilded, perfectly curated in-store shopping experience. Brands also worry about their products being sold next to counterfeit and gray-market items — an issue that Alibaba in particular has struggled with in the past.

但是到目前为止,中国的电子商务公司仍然很难说服国际顶级奢侈品牌在自己的平台上销售。奢侈品公司一直对电子商务怀有顾虑,认为它不可能取代金碧辉煌、精心布置的实体店购物体验。奢侈品牌还担心自己的产品和假冒商品以及灰市商品放在一起销售——这是此前令阿里巴巴格外头疼的一个问题。

Still, there is no ignoring the reality that Chinese consumers love shopping online. Chinese shoppers spent $758 billion online last year — more than the United States and Britain combined, according to official data, buying everything from toilet paper to luxury cars.

不过,一个不容忽视的事实是,中国消费者非常喜欢网购。根据官方数据,去年,中国消费者在网上花费了7580亿美元,比美国和英国的总和还多,他们从网上购买各种东西,从卫生纸到奢侈品牌汽车。

“The brands are finally starting to intellectualize the fact that to succeed in China, they need to go online,” said Alexis Bonhomme, co-founder of CuriosityChina, a Beijing-based digital marketing and tech company that works with luxury brands. “The bottom line is they need new revenue channels and e-commerce is a real revenue channel.”

“那些品牌最终开始理性对待这个事实:要想在中国取得成功,他们需要上网,”与奢侈品牌合作的数字市场营销和技术公司奇智睿思的联合创始人博远(Alexis Bonhomme)说。“最重要的是,他们需要新的营收渠道,而电子商务是一个真正的营收渠道。”

Some brands have already made the leap. Burberry in particular has led the push into e-commerce in China, opening a flagship store on Alibaba’s Tmall platform. Others, like the Hong Kong jeweler Chow Tai Fook and the Swiss watch brand Tag Heuer, have stores on JD.com.

有些品牌已经取得了飞跃。尤其是博柏利(Burberry),它是进军中国电子商务市场的领导者,在阿里巴巴的天猫平台上开设了一个旗舰店。另外,香港珠宝公司周大福和瑞士手表品牌泰格豪雅(Tag Heuer)等品牌在京东开设了店铺。

To appeal to brands, e-commerce companies offer to increase efforts to crack down on counterfeits.

为了吸引品牌,电子商务公司主动加大打击假冒商品的力度。

“One of our goals was to clean up the e-commerce market so we could ensure that anyone who bought online was buying a real Tag Heuer,” said Leo Poon, general manager of Tag Heuer in greater China. “So far it’s been working and we’re seeing sales picking up.”

“我们的一个目标是清理电子商务市场,确保大家在网上买到的都是真正的泰格豪雅,”泰格豪雅大中华区总经理潘锦基(Leo Poon)说。“到目前为止,这起作用了,销量在上升。”

But for more high-end luxury brands, increasing the anti-counterfeit effort is not enough.

不过,对更高端的奢侈品牌来说,只是加大打击假冒商品的力度还不够。

“Luxury brands are control freaks,” Mr. Bonhomme of CuriosityChina said. “They want complete control over everything.”

“奢侈品牌是控制狂,”奇智睿思的博远说。“他们想对一切拥有绝对的控制。”

For now, some luxury brands are opting to create their own e-commerce websites to sell directly to consumers. Many, like Cartier and Bulgari, have also begun partnerships with Tencent’s popular WeChat mobile messaging service to create online stores, flash sales, and marketing campaigns featuring major Chinese influencers.

有些奢侈品牌目前选择创立自己的电子商务网站,直接向消费者销售。卡地亚(Cartier)和宝格丽(Bulgari)等很多品牌也开始与腾讯的热门手机即时通讯平台微信合作,设立网店,推出限时抢购活动,寻找在中国具有影响力的人进行广告代言。

Ultimately, e-commerce giants like Alibaba and JD.com are hoping that the allure of their vast consumer base will be too difficult for luxury brands to resist. Shiny add-on features like the white-glove delivery service may make swallowing the e-commerce pill a little easier for the brands.

阿里巴巴和京东等电子商务巨头期望自己庞大的消费群体最终会成为令奢侈品牌难以拒绝的诱惑。白手套快递等精致的附加服务也许会让奢侈品牌更容易接受电子商务。

On a recent morning, Mr. Tang, the courier, pulled out of a JD.com warehouse on the outskirts of Beijing with a single delivery box in tow. Three-wheeled delivery carts whizzed past as he drove calmly toward the city’s central business district.

前不久的一个上午,快递员唐洪亮从北京郊区的一个京东仓库出来,他只带了一个快递箱。三轮快递车从他身边呼啸而过,他却从容地开着车前往北京的中央商务区。

After waiting for the customer for nearly two hours, Mr. Tang stepped out of the car, pulled on his signature gloves and headed out to deliver the package.

在等了客户近两个小时后,唐洪亮从车里出来,戴上他标志性的白手套,去送快递。

“Wow, I wasn’t expecting this service at all,” Yan Luxia, 30, said as she received the box and took out a designer Italian leather handbag.

“哇,我完全没想到还有这样的服务,”30岁的闫露霞(音)说。她接过箱子,取出一个意大利名牌皮革手袋。

Ms. Yan, who manages a dating service in Beijing, later said the premium delivery service had been a very “satisfying” experience.

闫女士是北京一家婚介交友公司的经理,后来她说,高端快递服务的体验令她非常“满意”。

“But to be honest,” she added, “consumers care more about the authenticity of the product.”

“不过,坦白地说,”她又说,“顾客更关心产品是不是真的。”

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