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喷泉变泳池,罗马向“新原始人”说不

更新时间:2017-6-25 10:14:47 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

No Swimming! Rome Braces for Summer of Tourists at Its Fountains
喷泉变泳池,罗马向“新原始人”说不

ROME — On a sweltering Monday afternoon, a beautiful day for a swim, Mario Messina noticed some holidaymakers teetering dangerously close to the turquoise waters and sounded five short blasts of his whistle.

罗马——一个闷热周一的下午——这是一个很适合游泳的日子,马里奥·梅西纳(Mario Messina)注意到,一些游客与碧绿的池水过于接近,于用他用哨子发出五声短促的哨响。

“Come down!” Messina said, with an elegant flip of the hand to a woman leaning over the ledge to test the water temperature. “Come down!”

“下来!”梅西纳优雅地伸出手,对一个在池边测试水温的女人说。“下来!”

Despite his Ray Bans, virtuosity with a whistle and sunny Sicilian disposition, Messina is not a seaside lifeguard but a Roman police officer in a pith helmet. He is entrusted to protect the Trevi Fountain, one of the world’s most cherished and visited monuments, from the scourge of parched, overheated and advancing tourist armies. And now he has reinforcements.

尽管他戴着雷朋太阳镜,口哨技巧娴熟,具有西西里式的阳光性情,但梅西纳并非海边救生员,而是一个戴着遮阳帽的罗马警察。他的任务是保护许愿池(Trevi Fountain),避免焦渴、过于热情、数量越来越多的游客大军对这个世界上最受珍爱、参观者最多的历史遗迹之一造成危害。现在他有了增援力量。

Because Summer Is Coming.

因为夏天来了。

Already, the warm weather has brought a menacing whiff of tourists behaving badly. For months, stiff fines failed to stop a fountain-bathing fad in a city blessed with and born of flowing water.

炎热天气把游客不好的一面带了出来。几个月来,在这个喷泉众多、因喷泉而诞生的城市里,严厉的罚款手段并未能阻止人们到喷泉里浸泡的风尚。

On April 12, a man went skinny-dipping in the Trevi Fountain, resulting in a viral web video and a fine of 500 euros ($530). (“I was here for the naked guy,” Messina said, adding that nudity carried a criminal complaint “because it was an obscene act.”)

一男子4月12日在许愿池裸泳的视频在网上疯传,他被罚款500欧元(约合人民币3800元)(“那个裸泳者是我处理的,”梅西纳说,裸露是一种“淫秽的行为”,会提起刑事诉讼)。

That same month, a 30-year-old Spanish tourist waded into the fountain dressed in a long tunic, a German woman in her 60s took a morning dip, and two Danes received 900-euro fines for mistaking the Fountain of Two Seas at Rome’s Piazza Venezia for a foot bath.

同样是4月,一名30岁的西班牙游客穿着长衫走到许愿池中,一个60多岁的德国女子在一天早晨下了水,还有两名丹麦人在罗马威尼斯广场的海之喷泉(Fountain of Two Seas)洗脚而被处以900欧元的罚款。

Then there was May. A 25-year-old Danish woman, perhaps with “La Dolce Vita” visions of Anita Ekberg sloshing in her head, took an evening swim in her nightgown. And two American women, according to Messina, went for a (previously unreported!) swim.

然后是5月。一名25岁的丹麦女子,可能是想效仿电影《甜蜜生活》(La Dolce Vita)的女主角安妮塔·艾克伯格(Anita Ekberg),在晚上穿着睡衣到喷泉里游泳。根据梅西纳的说法,此外还有两名美国女子在喷泉游泳(之前未见报道)。

And June. A 30-year-old Malaysian man bathed nude in Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s baroque Four Rivers Fountain in Piazza Navona and received a 450-euro fine. (“I was hot,” he reportedly explained to the police.)

还有6月。一名30岁的马来西亚男子在纳沃纳广场(Piazza Navona)济安·洛伦佐·贝尔尼尼(Gian Lorenzo Bernini)设计的巴洛克风格四河喷泉(Four Rivers Fountain)里裸泳,被罚款450美元(据说他给警察的解释是“我太热了”)。

The police also apprehended a Czech artist washing a dirty rag in the Piazza del Popolo’s Fountain of the Lions. Soon after, they fined the British and Romanian parents of two children for allowing them to climb on the lions.

警方还逮捕了一名正在人民广场(Piazza del Popolo)的狮子喷泉(Fountain of the Lions)里洗一块脏布的捷克艺术家。没过多久,因为允许两个孩子在狮子身上爬来爬去,孩子的英国和罗马尼亚家长被警方处以罚款。

The “New Barbarians,” as some papers have taken to calling the tourists, are not limited to Rome. In Florence, officials have taken to hosing down the Duomo Cathedral and other sites to prevent loiterers from sitting and eating on the steps.

一些报纸已经习惯把游客称作“新原始人”。他们不仅仅出没于罗马。在佛罗伦萨,官方经常用水管冲洗圣母百花大教堂(Duomo Cathedral)和其他景点,以防游客坐在台阶上吃东西。

But it is Rome and its fountains that are in the eye of the selfie storm, prompting the city’s embattled mayor, Virginia Raggi, to issue an ordinance.

但处在这场自拍暴风眼的却是罗马和它的喷泉。这促使处境艰难的该市市长弗吉妮亚·拉吉(Virginia Raggi)颁布了一项法令。

Until October, there are harsher fines for eating, drinking or sitting on the fountains, for washing animals or clothes in the fountain water or for throwing anything other than coins into the water of the Trevi Fountain and 36 other fountains of artistic or historic significance around the city.

直到10月,在喷泉吃东西和喝东西、坐在喷泉上、在喷泉里给动物洗澡或洗衣服、朝许愿池和全市其他36座具有重要艺术或历史意义的喷泉扔除硬币外任何东西的行为,都将受到更加严厉的罚款。

“It is unacceptable that someone uses them to go swimming or clean themselves. It’s a historic patrimony that we must safeguard,” Raggi said Monday during what she called a surprise “inspection” of the situation at the Trevi Fountain.

“有人用它们来游泳或洗澡令人难以接受。它是我们必须保护的历史遗产,”拉吉在周一对许愿池进行她所谓的突击“检查”时说道。

Raggi, accompanied by two aides, went unnoticed by the tourists in beachwear and at times had trouble squeezing through the crowd. She said that to a certain degree, the bathing phenomenon had always existed, but that with videos of nude fountain bathing spreading on social media, she felt “we simply must do something more. And that’s what we have done.”

在两名助手的陪同下,拉吉费劲地穿过人群,并未被身着沙滩装的游客认出。她说,在某种程度上洗澡现象一直存在,但随着在喷泉里裸泳的视频在社交媒体上传播,她感到“我们确实必须作出更多努力,于是有了我们采取的这些措施”。

Enemies of the mayor, a national figurehead of the anti-establishment Five Star Movement, have added the assault on monuments to the list of Roman woes under her administration, including festering trash on the city sidewalks, unkempt parks that resemble wheat fields and traffic-clogged streets transformed into idling parking lots. When in degraded Rome, they argue, tourists will do as the degraded Romans.

拉吉是反建制的五星运动(Five Star Movement)在全国的名誉领袖。她的政敌把历史遗迹遭受的破坏,列入了在她的领导下罗马所遭受的不幸名单,包括人行道上腐烂的垃圾、像麦田一样乱糟糟的公园,以及街道拥堵变成停车场。他们说,在堕落了的罗马,游客会入乡随俗。

But it is hard to pin the tourist nuisance on her. In 1999, Italy felt the need to pass a law to protect city monuments and banned wading in the fountains. In 2012, a previous mayor drafted an ordinance fining tourists as much as $650 for dripping ice cream, dropping crumbs and lunching on the monuments.

但很难把游客的恶劣行径归罪于拉吉。1999年,意大利觉得有必要通过一项保护该市历史遗迹的法律,禁止游客进入喷泉。2012年,前任市长起草了一项法令,规定对于在历史遗迹把冰激凌和食物碎屑掉在地上,以及在历史遗迹吃饭的游客处以最高650美元的罚款。

Many Romans remember the local folk hero known as D’Artagnan, who for decades waded into the fountain before dawn to fish for the coins that wishful tourists had tossed behind.

很多罗马人都记得当地被称作达塔尼昂的民间英雄。数十年间,此人坚持在黎明前进入喷泉,捞出心有所愿的游客扔的硬币。

Still, Vittorio Avanzini, the publisher of Roman historical guides including “The Fountains of Rome,” insisted that throughout the city’s long history, “it’s never been like this.”

但《罗马的喷泉》(The Fountains of Rome)等罗马历史手册的出版商维托里奥·阿万齐尼(Vittorio Avanzini)坚持认为,纵观罗马的悠久历史,“从来没像这样过”。

To combat the heated hordes, Dario Franceschini, the Italian culture minister, has floated the idea of limiting the number of tourists permitted to view blockbuster monuments at any one time.

为了应对热情的游客,意大利文化部长达里奥·弗兰切斯基尼(Dario Franceschini)提出了在著名历史遗迹限制游客人数的主意。

“You can’t have 50,000 people at the Trevi Fountain — there’s a maximum capacity. These are places to safeguard, fragile places,” Franceschini said.

“不能在许愿池那里聚集五万人,那是最大容量。这些是要保护的地方,是脆弱的地方,”弗兰切斯基尼说。

He welcomed the explosion of tourists from China and other countries eager to visit Italy, but said that the huge numbers created new challenges and argued that new technology allowed for the automatic counting and regulation of the masses. “It’s absolutely necessary.”

他对迫切想去意大利旅游的中国和其他国家的游客数量急剧增加表示欢迎,但表示庞大的游客人数带来了新的挑战,并说新技术考虑到了自动统计和对人群的管理。“绝对有必要。”

As Raggi left the Trevi Fountain to check out the situation at a renaissance fountain in Piazza d’Aracoeli at the foot of the Capitoline Hill, she refused to entertain the limited numbers idea.

在离开许愿池去检查卡比托利欧山(Capitoline Hill)脚下天坛广场(Piazza d’Aracoeli)一处文艺复兴时期的喷泉时,拉吉拒绝考虑限制游客人数的主意。

“The monuments are for everyone,” she said. “And it’s fair that everyone who respects the rules can visit them, enjoy their beauty.”

“历史遗迹属于每一个人,”她说。“遵守规则的人都能够参观和欣赏它们的美才公平。”

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