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奔跑吧,兄弟,在香港奇幻冒险的山道上!

更新时间:2017-5-29 10:39:12 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Running for Adventure on Hong Kong’s MacLehose Trail
奔跑吧,兄弟,在香港奇幻冒险的山道上!

We had a long way to go, so I began with a jog. My brother Neil fell in place one stride behind me. The path ahead wound its way around the foot of the mountains. To our right, one of Hong Kong’s most beautiful bays, Long Ke Wan, lapped against the orange clay banks. We ran easily, talking about what we always do when we go for runs — college and friends, backpacking trips, the run ahead and the runs we’ll go on in the future.

我们前面的路还很长,所以我以小跑开始。我的兄弟尼尔(Neil)在身后一步远的地方紧跟着我。前边的小道在山脚下迂回盘绕。我们的右边是香港最美丽的海湾之一浪茄湾,那里的海水不断拍打着橙色粘土的海岸。我们轻松地跑着,谈着我们跑步时总在谈论的话题——大学和朋友、背包旅行、前面要跑的路,以及将来要去跑步的地方。

The air carried that fresh, morning quiet that is present in Hong Kong only during the winter, when the skies are clear and the temperature crisp and pleasant. By summertime, humidity will climb to 99 percent, and the cicadas will be a pulsing roar. As we ran through the stillness Neil echoed my thoughts: “Save the music for later.”

空气中那种清新的、早晨的安静,只是在香港的冬天才有,这里的冬天天空清澈,温度清爽宜人。夏天,这里的湿度能高达99%,一阵阵的蝉声震耳欲聋。我们在宁静中前行,尼尔和我产生了同样的想法:“把音乐留到以后听。”

The MacLehose Trail is 100 kilometers through the mountains along the northern border of Hong Kong. It’s divided into 10 stages, beginning with a concrete path leading to spectacular seaside cliffs and white beaches. The trail carves through jungle, and cuts up and over mountain peaks with shrubbery reminiscent of that found in dry regions of Southern Italy. The MacLehose has been named one of the best hikes in the world by National Geographic, and every October, hundreds of ultramarathon runners converge here and compete to finish the entire course in 48 hours.

麦理浩径在香港北部边界地区的山脉中穿行,全长100公里,分为10段,刚开始是水泥小道,最终通往壮观的海边悬崖和白色海滩。这条步道穿越丛林、翻山越岭,山上的灌木丛令人联想起意大利南部干旱地区经常看到的那些。《国家地理》杂志曾把麦理浩径评为世界最佳步道之一,每年10月,数百名超级马拉松赛手聚集这里举行比赛,希望在48小时内完成整个赛程。

It was winter break, and my brother and I were home from our first semester of college in the United States. We grew up in Hong Kong, and had never been so far from home for so long. In a week, we’d make the 16-hour return trip to school. “Let’s do something memorable,” I said. “We should run the MacLehose Trail.”

这是放寒假的时候,我和兄弟在美国大学念完了第一个学期,刚回到家里。我们在香港长大,从未在离家那么远的地方住那么长的时间。一周后,我们将踏上16小时的行程返回学校。“让我们做点难忘的事情吧,”我说。“我们应该去麦理浩径跑步。”

There are actually three of us. I have two brothers — Neil and Russell — and we are triplets, born one minute apart. Natural triplets occur in about one of 8,000 births. But as fraternal triplets, we are no more similar to each other than siblings of separate births. My brothers have black hair, mine is brown. I’m 5-foot-4 and Neil is 6-foot-1.

我们其实是三个人。我有两个兄弟——尼尔和罗素(Russell)——我们是三胞胎,以一分钟的间隔出生。自然受孕三胞胎的发生概率是8000分之一。然而,作为从三个不同卵子发育出来的三胞胎,我们的相似之处,与不同胎出生的兄弟姐妹没有什么不同。我兄弟的头发是黑色的,我的头发是棕色的。我身高1米63,尼尔身高1米85。

And although we shared the same womb, we have completely different interests. Russell taught himself computer science and has a black belt in taekwondo. Neil does physics research and grew up playing baseball. I love biology and creative writing.

我们虽然曾同胎,却有着完全不同的兴趣。罗素自学了计算机科学,跆拳道打到黑带水平。尼尔研究物理,是打棒球长大的。我则喜欢生物学和创意写作。

But Neil and I share a love of running. Throughout middle school and high school, I ran track and cross country, competing in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou. For fun, I would run along the reservoir hiking trails outside our home. When baseball season was over, Neil would join me.

不过,我和尼尔都爱跑步。我在整个初中和高中阶段参加田径和长跑运动,曾在北京、上海和广州比赛。为了开心,我会沿着我们家门外水库边的小道跑步。棒球季结束后,尼尔会跟我一起跑。

Soon, I came to love running the most when I was running with Neil. Our runs were more like adventures. Once we found an opening off the main path that led to a hidden sandy enclave off the banks of the reservoir. We called our discovery “The Beach.” We would end our runs there, plunging into the crystalline waters to cool off. More often than not, we were reckless — one day we swam to the opposite shore and climbed the rock face of a small waterfall. Another time we went bridge jumping off the reservoir dam.

很快我发现,当我和尼尔一起跑时,我跑步的兴致最高。我们跑步更像是冒险。有一次,我们在环绕水库的小道上发现了通向一个附近不为人知的沙滩的岔口。我们把自己的发现命名为《海滩》。我们会在那里结束跑步,然后跳入清澈透明的水中冷身。我们往往无所顾忌,有一次,我们游到了对岸,还攀爬了一个小瀑布后的岩石。还有一次,我们把水库大坝当作大桥,从上面跳下。

The MacLehose Trail was our latest reckless adventure. The night before, we only half-prepared for the run, filling a small backpack with a liter of water and a few snacks.

麦理浩径是我们最新的鲁莽冒险。在头天晚上,我们只对跑步做了部分准备,在一个小背包里装了一升水和一点零食。

We breezed through the first stage, marveling at the cliffs that jutted up from churning surf. The trail was interspersed with steep stairs winding up and down the precipices and long stretches of sand. We were alone — our only company was the wild cattle that grazed along the edges of the beaches.

我们的第一段跑得很轻松,边跑边对翻滚海水中突立的悬崖表示惊叹。沿途不时有一些陡峭的阶梯,沿着峭壁一会儿把人带到下边长长的沙滩上,一会儿又把人带到上边。除了我们没有别人,唯一的陪伴是在沙滩边缘吃草的野牛。

As we neared the second stage, the open ocean trail forked into dense jungle. We had been running for a solid two hours.

当我们接近第二阶段时,这条海边小道出现分岔,伸入密集的丛林。这时我们已经跑了两个小时。

“O.K., the map says this way,” said Neil, pointing at the narrow path that disappeared suddenly into a tangle of branches.

“哦,地图说走这边,”尼尔指着一条戛然没入树枝丛中的窄路说道。

“You first,” he grinned.

“你先,”他笑了起来。

We ran until the dense underbrush forced us to slow to a walk. The path was now just visible under layers of black, rotting leaves. I crawled between a fallen tree and a web of creepers, and found that I could no longer straighten up. The vines were matted in a close weave above my head. I could just make out an abandoned concrete bunker, probably from World War II, in front of us. It seemed ominous in the dappled light.

我们跑着前进,直到茂密的灌木丛让我们不得不慢慢地把跑变成走。道路掩盖在一层层黑色腐烂的树叶下面,只能勉强可见。我在一棵倒下的树木和无数爬行动物之间爬行,发现没有挺直腰板的空间。头顶上是密集缠绕的藤蔓。这时我看到面前有一个废弃的“二战”混凝土碉堡。斑驳的光影下,气氛感觉很是不祥。

“Neil, are you sure this is the trail?”

“尼尔,你确定是这条路吗?”

He was straddling the trunk of the tree, simultaneously squinting at the map on his phone and untangling his shorts from the thorns of a rogue vine. “It says we’re on the trail… O.K., wait…”

他跨坐在那棵树的树干上,查看手机上的地图,同时把短裤从一根流氓蔓藤的刺上解开。“地图显示我们是在这条路上……哦,等等……”

We soon learned we were using an old map and had veered off the trail. Crawling allowed for only so much progress. Twenty minutes later, it felt like we had moved only about 50 meters. The trees encased us in all directions and the air was still, heavy. I sank to my knees. “We’re lost in the jungle.”

很快,我们发现自己用的是一张旧地图,已经偏离了小道。爬行速度太慢了。20分钟后我们好像才移动了大约50米。四面八方都是树,空气凝固而沉重。我跪倒在地。“我们在丛林里迷路了。”

We were silent for a moment. Then, Neil began to laugh. I glanced at him, bewildered, as he pointed to something through the vines. I followed his gaze and squinted.

我们沉默了一会儿,然后,尼尔开始大笑起来。我不解地瞥了他一眼,他指了指藤蔓植物后面的什么东西。我眯着眼,顺着他的方向看过去。

It was a cow. A sleepy, black cow with lolling eyes, chewing cud in the middle of the jungle. I couldn’t help it — I began to chuckle as well. Soon, the two of us were sitting on the forest floor, roaring with laughter. I imagined what we would look like to a rescue helicopter — not that anyone could make us out through the canopy of trees. The two of us, covered in scratches, sitting on an abandoned World War II trail, with nothing but a cow for company.

是一头母牛,一头昏昏欲睡的黑色母牛,正耷拉着眼睛在丛林中央反刍。我忍不住也开始咯咯笑起来。很快,我俩都坐在地上,大笑起来。我想的是从救援的直升机上看,我们是什么形象,而不是在那遮天蔽日的树林里,谁能看到我们。满身划伤的我们坐在一条废弃的“二战”小道上,陪伴我们的除了一头母牛外别无一物。

These are the moments I live for. When Neil and I run, we make memories. We find hidden oases, jump off bridges and get lost in the jungle together.

这些正是我盼望的时刻。我和尼尔跑步时,我们是在创造回忆。我们一起寻找隐秘的绿洲、从桥上跳下、在树林里迷路。

When we run, we share more than adventure. Our runs are both an escape from real life and a plunge into the center of it. As we run, we talk. We sort each other out. When I’m with Neil, I let out a breath. Our runs are a time where I can be completely myself. Between us, there are no secrets. He knows my struggles, heartbreaks and triumphs, and I know his.

跑步时,我们一起经历的不仅仅是冒险。我们跑步既是逃离现实生活,又是纵身跃入生活的中心。我们会边跑边交谈,帮对方理清思路。和尼尔在一起时,我会松一口气。我们一起跑步时,我可以完全做我自己。我们之间没有秘密。他知道我的困难、痛苦和成功,我也知道他的。

The jungle detour cost us an hour. The feeling when we finally burst into the sunlight, I can only describe as bliss. In the silent trees, we had agreed that we would save music to play at this moment. Now, our speaker blasted the “La La Land” soundtrack. As the trumpets sang and the drums pounded, I looked at Neil, whose face was lit up by a huge grin.

绕进丛林这段插曲花了我们一个小时。当我们终于重见阳光时,那一刹那的感觉,我只能用幸福来描述。在寂静的树林里,我们一致同意把音乐留在这个时刻。现在,我们的扬声器传出了《爱乐之城》(La La Land)的配乐。当小号和鼓声响起,我看着尼尔。他的脸上露出了一个大大的笑容。

“I don’t want to leave this again,” I said. We had started to run, this time with Neil in the front.

“我不想再离开这些了,”我说。这时,我们已经开始跑了,这次是尼尔在前面。

“Leave what?”

“离开什么?”

“All of this.” I meant the trail, the familiar mountains, “The Beach,” and our childhood home by the ocean. I meant the time our family had together, the week we had before we left Hong Kong for another half year. “Don’t you think about this when we’re away?”

“所有这一切。”我指的是这条小道、熟悉的山峰、《海滩》和童年时我们在海边的家。我指的是我们一家人在一起的时光,和我们再次离开香港半年之前的这一周。“我们不在的时候,你不会想起这些吗?”

“Yeah, but not like that.” He was nonchalant. “There’s so much work to do, I just do what’s in front of me.”

“会啊,但不是这样。”他语气听来漠不关心。“有这么多工作要做,我只做眼前的。”

To anyone else, what Neil said was not profound. But something about the way he said it spoke to me. For that moment, I was happy to exist in this shared space with my brother, with the path before us and miles of trail ahead, under a blue sky in a place I call home.

在其他任何人看来,尼尔说的话都不深奥。但他说这句话的方式打动了我。在那一刻,我为能和亲兄弟在一个我称之为家的地方的蓝天下,一起走过前方的路、在还有数英里长的小道上奔跑而感到高兴。

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