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“全副武装”的梅拉尼娅,准备为何而战?

更新时间:2017-5-28 10:54:12 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Melania Trump on Display, Dressed in Ambivalence and Armor
“全副武装”的梅拉尼娅,准备为何而战?

And so we come to the end of what has been the longest and most comprehensive viewing of Melania Trump playing the role of first lady since her husband’s administration began: nine days, five countries, more than a dozen outfits, all of them photographed and recorded (and exclaimed over) for the historical record.

这似乎是我们最长、最全面地一次检视梅拉尼娅·特朗普(Melania Trump)自丈夫上任以来,如何扮演第一夫人的角色:总共历时九天,访问了五个国家,换了十几套衣服,全程都进行了拍照和录像(并引发惊呼)留作历史纪录,现在这种检视结束了。

“Melania did not wear a veil in Saudi Arabia!” “Melania did wear a veil to the Vatican!” “Melania changes outfits during flight!”

“梅拉尼娅在沙特阿拉伯没有戴头巾!”“梅拉尼娅到梵蒂冈戴了头巾!”“梅拉尼娅在飞行途中换了服装!”

Does it really matter?

这真的有关系吗?

Of course. Because Mrs. Trump has been, up to now, a cipher cloistered in a gilded New York penthouse but is about to take her place in the East Wing (at least according to her team) as the United States’ official hostess. And because, as a representative of the country and the Trump administration on the world stage, this was her clearest statement yet about how she will manage that position.

当然有关系。因为此前,梅拉尼娅一直是藏匿在纽约一个镀金阁楼里的神秘人物,但是她马上就要作为美国官方的女主人入主白宫东翼了(至少她的团队是这么说的)。而且,作为一个国家以及特朗普政府在世界舞台上的代表,她将如何在这个位置上发挥作用,服装就是她最清楚的声明。

It just happened that, since Mrs. Trump did not say much as she accompanied her husband from Saudi Arabia through Israel to Italy, Brussels and Sicily, it was largely made through her clothes.

恰巧,由于梅拉尼娅在陪同丈夫从沙特阿拉伯,经过以色列,再到意大利、布鲁塞尔和西西里岛的行程中并没有说多少话,她的声明基本上都是通过衣着表达出来的。

That’s why what she wore received so much more attention than what Ivanka Trump wore (the fascinator at the Western Wall and the weirdly bridal black tulle veil at the Vatican aside).

这就是为什么她的穿着比伊万卡·特朗普(Ivanka Trump)的穿着吸引了更多注意力的原因(她在哭墙穿得很迷人,在梵蒂冈戴着奇怪的新娘式黑色薄纱头巾)。

Add up the Stella McCartney black jumpsuit, the Michael Kors gingham coat dress, the Ralph Lauren khaki shirtdress, the taupe Maison Ullens suit and the myriad Dolce & Gabbana cocktail laces, that brand’s gambler’s trouser suit and botanical day coat, and what do you have?

加上Stella McCartney黑色连身裤、Michael Kors方格布外套连衣裙、Ralph Lauren卡其色衬衫、Maison Ullens灰褐色西装,以及大量的Dolce&Gabbana鸡尾酒蕾丝——同品牌的赌徒衣裤套装和花卉外套,你能看出什么?

Ambivalence and armor. They were the defining trends of the trip.

模棱两可和装甲感。这趟行程的性质也是如此。

For every moment when Mrs. Trump seemed to engage with the historical precedent of her job — which largely involves humanizing the president by being the approachable, accessible half of the equation, and participating cheerfully in the spousal exercises of dressing, dining and hospital visiting — there was another in which she seemed to reject it. Kind of the way she seemed to reject most public displays of affection with her husband until the final leg of the trip. (See the hand-swatting maneuver performed after landing at Ben-Gurion International Airport in Israel, and similar evasive tactics.)

梅拉尼娅每一次试图完成第一夫人的传统差事——主要是赋予总统人性,方法是展示这个等式中平易近人、亲切的另一半,愉快地参加梳妆、餐饮、参观医院的夫人团活动——似乎就会拒绝另一个这样的活动。就像直到旅程的最后一站之前,她似乎都拒绝公开展示与丈夫的感情一样(参见在以色列本古里安国际机场降落后,她打开总统的手的做法,以及类似的回避方式)。

She acknowledged, for example, the sartorial protocols of the countries she visited. In Saudi Arabia, she was modest — even the Dolce & Gabbana white trouser suit and black shirt, while with a modern edge, was fully covered. In Vatican City, she went dark. In the resort town of Taormina in Sicily, springlike.

例如,她遵从了这些国家的服饰礼仪。在沙特阿拉伯,她的衣着端庄——Dolce&Gabbana白色长裤西装和黑色衬衫,虽然设计时髦,但也完全覆盖了皮肤。在梵蒂冈城,她穿着深色服装。在西西里岛的度假小城陶尔米纳,她的服饰洋溢着春天的气息。

After landing at the King Khalid International Airport in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, she materialized on the steps of Air Force One in that black jumpsuit, whose Wonder Woman gold Saint Laurent belt, flowing hemline, long sleeves and notch neck made everyone think: abaya! Later she swept into dinner wearing a caped magenta Reem Acra gown with a jeweled neckline, like a high fashion Scheherazade.

空军一号在沙特阿拉伯利雅得哈立德国王国际机场降落后,她从机舱中走出,穿着黑色连身衣,戴着“神奇女侠”金色圣罗兰(Saint Laurent)腰带,飘动的下摆、长袖和衣领凹口让每个人心里想:阿拉伯长袍!后来吃晚餐时,她穿了一件洋红色的Reem Acra斗篷长袍,领口用珠宝装饰,像是山鲁佐德式高端时装。

Like many of her Western predecessors, she went veil-less in Saudi Arabia, but bent to Vatican tradition by wearing a lace veil to meet the pope. This apparent discrepancy in attitude got a lot of people very worked up, but it was fully in line with the policies of those who had gone before. (See: Michelle Obama, veil-less in Saudi Arabia in 2015, veiled at the Vatican in 2009.)

与之前的很多西方第一夫人一样,她在沙特阿拉伯没有戴头巾,却迎合了梵蒂冈的传统,戴了一顶维多利亚式的蕾丝头巾去见教皇。这种貌似不同的态度让很多人都激动起来,但实际上完全符合之前的政策(见:米歇尔·奥巴马2015年在沙特阿拉伯没有戴头巾,2009年在梵蒂冈戴头巾。)

And her embrace of the high-end, and refusal to go through the motions of adopting the occasional accessible item, was fully in line with her husband’s gold-toned dollar-sign spiel. Forget espadrilles or T-shirts; the Dolce & Gabbana floral coat cost an unapologetic $51,500.

她拥抱高端服饰,拒绝采纳偶尔亲民服饰的建议,这和她丈夫谈金论钱的讲话完全一致。忘记帆布鞋或T恤衫吧;她穿的Dolce&Gabbana花卉外套价格高达51500美元。

But then she rejected the traditional game of fashion diplomacy in which first ladies have been engaged since Jacqueline Kennedy, eschewing any pressure either to use her public appearances to promote homegrown talent, or to follow more recent strategy and support designers from the host country, the better to demonstrate friendly intentions.

但后来,她拒绝了自杰奎琳·肯尼迪(Jacqueline Kennedy)以来第一夫人的传统时尚外交游戏,避开所有压力,既不利用自己的公共形象宣传本土时装,也不遵循最近的策略——为东道国的时装设计师提供宣传,更好地展示友好的意图。

She didn’t ask one designer, like Hervé Pierre, who created her inauguration dress as well as the leather skirt she wore to depart Washington, to help her assemble her wardrobe. She didn’t underscore her own international story. She spread her endorsements — but only kind of, wearing multiple looks from Mr. Kors and a high percentage from Dolce & Gabbana as well as an assortment of other names. Yes, she wore American designers, and yes, she started to look like a Sicilian widow while in Italy, and wore the Belgian label Maison Ullens in Brussels. (And, according to Vogue, which pretty breathlessly chronicled this trip, she even worked with the latter on her look, proving it was an entirely conscious choice.)

她没有请专门的设计师帮助她处理服装事务,哪怕是为她提供就职典礼服装,以及她离开华盛顿时所穿皮裙的埃尔维·皮埃尔(Hervé Pierre)。她没有强调自己的国际化故事。她传播的是她认可的东西——但这只是在某种程度上,因为她穿Michael Kors或者 Dolce&Gabbana等品牌的时候还是偏多。是的,她也穿美国设计师的品牌;是的,她在意大利的时候看起来像一个西西里遗孀;在布鲁塞尔穿着比利时的品牌Maison Ullens(密切紧跟这次行程的时尚杂志《Vogue》说,她甚至与后者一起研究自己的造型,证明这完全是一个有意做出的选择)。

But then she undermined the point by wearing Dolce & Gabbana and the British label Roksanda in Israel, and more Dolce in Brussels. (Dolce, which she also wore for her official portrait, is seeming like her go-to brand, a relationship that has upset some of the designers’ Instagram fans.) That meant there was no consistent pattern behind the origin stories of what she chose when.

但随后,她又削弱了这种印象,在以色列穿着Dolce&Gabbana和英国品牌Roksanda,并在布鲁塞尔再次穿着Dolce(她在官方肖像中也穿着Dolce,看起来这像是她的心水品牌,这种关系已经让该品牌的一些Instagram粉丝感到不安)。这意味着,她在什么时候选择什么服饰上并没有一个连贯的模式。

If anything seemed to unite the sartorial choices the first lady made, at least during the day, it was a certain rigidity of line, monochrome palette and militaristic mien. She favored sharp power shoulders, single-breasted jackets with wide cinched belts and big square buckles, straight skirts and a lot of buttons. Mostly buttoned up. Hemlines were not too short, and the only skin really exposed was on her arms (also a bit of shoulder in Brussels for evening).

如果说梅拉尼娅在服装选择上有什么做法具有连贯性的话,那么至少是她在白天穿着的服装,都具有线条感,采用单色调,带有军装式的硬朗。她喜欢肩膀线条笔挺有力、带宽腰带和大方皮带扣的单排扣外套,直裙,以及许多的纽扣。大部分时候所有纽扣都会扣上,裙摆不会太短,唯一真正露出一点皮肤的地方就是手臂(在布鲁塞尔,晚上还露出一点点肩)。

It’s not an accident that the Michael Kors white suit she wore in Israel looked almost identical to the Maison Ullens taupe suit she wore in Belgium: tight, belted, undecorated. These aren’t clothes designed (in all senses of that word) to charm; they are designed for security. Though the veil debate and the floral froufrou got the most attention, it was her battened-down, ready-for-battle styles that left the lasting impression.

她在以色列穿的Michael Kors白色西装看起来和她在比利时穿的Maison Ullens灰褐色西装几乎一模一样,这并不是个意外。这两套西装都是修身款式,有腰带,没有装饰。它们不是设计(从这个词的所有层面上说)用来展现魅力的;它们是为安全而设计的。虽然关于头巾的争论和花卉外套引发了最多的关注,但是她那果断、准备作战的风格给人留下了更持久的印象。

And raised the unavoidable question: For what battle, exactly, is she preparing? Theories have been floated: her husband’s critics; the prying eyes of the outside world; even her own marriage. Maybe it’s the much vaunted revolution the president was fond of saying he led; maybe she, too, is fighting for his agenda.

这就提出了一个不可避免的问题:她在为什么样的战斗做准备?各种说法都有:批评她丈夫的人;外界的窥探;甚至她自己的婚姻。也许是总统喜欢吹嘘自己所领导的那场革命。也许她也正在为他的议程而奋斗。

Or maybe it’s just a signal that she is prepared to take her place on the home front.

或许这只是一个信号,表示她准备好了在大后方担当起自己的职责。

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