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博物馆全攻略:法国卢浮宫

更新时间:2017-5-26 11:37:53 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Make the Most of the Louvre
博物馆全攻略:法国卢浮宫

The Louvre, a former fortress and royal palace, is one of the world’s most awe-inspiring museums, a trove of history from the seventh century B.C. to the mid-19th century. Antiquities from the East and West vie for attention with masterpieces by Leonardo and Vermeer; wander aimlessly through its maze of galleries and you’re as likely to stumble into an imperial ballroom as a chamber containing a sphinx. It would take you about three full days to visit every room in this museum. (We know, because we did it.) But don't worry, we’ll help you make your trip unforgettable, but also manageable.

之前曾为要塞和皇家宫殿的卢浮宫,现在是世界上最让人惊叹的博物馆之一,这里有着上至公元前七世纪、下至19世纪中期的历史宝藏。达·芬奇和弗美尔的名作,与来自东西方的文物争相吸引人们的目光;随意地在迷宫般的展厅中闲逛,不是无意间走入了一座皇家宴会厅,就是迈入一个存放埃及狮身人面像的展厅。参观完博物馆内的所有展厅,需要花费整整三天时间(我们知道,因为我们这么做了)。但是不要担心,我们会帮你把这段旅程变得既容易又难忘。

The Five Must-Sees

不可错过的五大看点

It’s wonderful, and easy, to just get lost in the Louvre, but you won’t want to miss these particularly spectacular rooms.

在卢浮宫是很容易迷路的,闲逛的感觉也不错,但你不会想错过以下这些格外引人注目的展厅。

FRENCH HISTORY IN PICTURES

绘画中的法国历史

Denon Wing, First Floor | French Romanticism and Neoclassicism, Rooms 75 to 77

德农馆(Denon Wing),二层 | 法国浪漫主义与新古典主义,75-77展厅

Remember that the Louvre is, after all, a French museum, with collections selected by its monarchs. This Wing contains the the best examples of the country’s masterworks.

要知道,卢浮宫毕竟是一座法国博物馆,其藏品是由法国历代君主选择的。这个展馆保存就是法国艺术杰作中最具代表性的作品。

Why It’s Must See: French painting focuses on the epic sweep of the country’s historical turning points, like the massive canvas of Jacques-Louis David’s “The Coronation of Napoleon,” (1806-7) which controversially depicts Josephine’s coronation, Delacroix’s “Liberty Leading the People” (1830) representing the 1830 revolt against King Charles X, a timeless allegory of popular resistance.

必看理由:法国绘画注重展示法国历史转折点中的史诗场面,比如雅克-路易·大卫(Jacques-Louis David)1806年7月创作的巨幅油画《拿破仑的加冕典礼》就以颇具争议的方式描绘了约瑟芬的加冕;德拉克罗瓦1830年创作的《自由引导人民》则呈现了1830年民众反抗国王查理十世的运动,由此成为民众抗争的永恒象征。

What to Look For: Don’t miss Géricault’s “The Raft of the Medusa,” which depicts a terrifying moment in French naval history, when a French frigate sank off the coast of Senegal in 1816, and only 10 people out of 150 survived after a two-week ordeal without food or water. The painting captures the precise moment when the survivors spy the boat that will save them on the horizon.

看点:不要错过热里科(Géricault)的《美杜莎之筏》(The Raft of the Medusa),这幅画作描绘了法国航海史上一个令人恐惧的时刻,那是在1816年,一艘法国护卫舰在塞内加尔海岸沉没,船上150人只有10人生还,他们在没有食物和水的情况下熬了两周。画中描绘的恰好是幸存者看到远方前来营救他们的船只那一刻。

Nearby: When you enter the central hall that connects the two main chambers of the French Neoclassical and Romantic periods (where the gift shop is), don’t forget to look up. The ceiling of this Salle des Sept-Cheminées, with its skylight surrounded by stucco figurines by the sculptor Francisque-Joseph Duret, is absolutely lovely.

周边:当你进入连接法国古典主义和浪漫主义(礼品店所在的地方)两个主展厅的中央大厅时,不要忘记抬头看。这个七壁炉厅的天花板绝对值得一看,上面的天窗周围环绕的灰泥小雕塑是由雕塑家弗朗西斯科·约瑟夫·迪雷(Francisque-Joseph Duret)创作的。

HELLENISTIC HEROINES

希腊化时期的女英雄

Sully Wing, Ground Floor │Rooms 16 and 17, and Daru Staircase

苏利馆(Sully Wing),一层 | 16和17号展厅,以及达吕阶梯(Daru Staircase)

These 2,000-year-old beauties will help you understand how stone can come alive.

这两位已有两千岁的美人将有助于你了解石头可以被雕刻得多么栩栩如生。

Why It’s Must See: Two of the museum’s great ladies, “Venus de Milo” and “Winged Victory of Samothrace,” are Hellenistic masterpieces. These mysterious goddesses are about as entrancing as the womanly form ever gets. “Venus de Milo” was discovered on the Greek island of Melos (Milo in Greek) and although her arms were never recovered, by her sensual forms and suggestive nudity, scholars presume that she is the goddess of love, Aphrodite.

必看理由:这座博物馆最伟大的两位女性《米洛的维纳斯》(Venus de Milo)和《萨莫色雷斯的胜利女神》(Winged Victory of Samothrace)是希腊化时期的杰作。可以说,这两位神秘的女神有着女性所能拥有的最迷人的身躯。《米洛岛的维纳斯》发现于希腊的米洛岛,尽管她的两支胳膊一直没能找到,但学者们从性感的身躯和引人联想的裸体判断,她就是爱神阿佛洛狄忒(Aphrodite)。

What to Look For: In Room 17, a short walk from Aphrodite, you’ll find her equally seductive cousin, “Sleeping Hermaphroditos,” an Italian marble sculpture that presents the very essence of femininity when seen from one side, and the surprise of masculinity on the other. Turn around and head up the Daru staircase to the Denon Wing, and you’ll encounter “Winged Victory of Samothrace,” the headless great lady of the Louvre, her wings spread and her clothes tousled against her body by the wind.

看点:在17号展厅内,离阿佛洛狄忒几步之遥的地方,就可以看到与她同样性感的《沉睡的赫尔马佛洛狄忒斯》(Sleeping Hermaphroditos),那是一座意大利大理石雕塑,从一边看显出极度的女性气质,另一旁则是令人惊讶的男性气质。掉头沿达吕阶梯走到德农馆,就能看到《萨莫色雷斯的胜利女神》,这位卢浮宫内的伟大女神没有头,翅膀伸展着,衣服逆风杂乱地贴在身上。

Nearby: Also on the ground floor, but in the Denon Wing, Room 4, find the Roman sculptural masterpieces “Dying Slave” by Michelangelo, with his top rolled up to share his impressive abs, and Antonio Canova’s ebulliently romantic “Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss.”

周边:还是在一层,但是在德农馆的4号展厅,可以看到罗马雕塑的代表作,即由米开朗琪罗创作的《垂死的奴隶》(Dying Slave)和安东尼奥·卡诺瓦(Antonio Canova)创作的《被丘比特之吻拯救的普绪喀》(Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss),前者的头朝后仰着,展示着十分可观的腹肌。

TREASURES OF THE ITALIAN RENAISSANCE

意大利文艺复兴珍品

Denon Wing, First Floor | Italian Paintings, Rooms 1 to 8

德农馆,二层 | 意大利绘画,1-8号展厅

The Denon Wing of the Louvre is home to some of the world’s most famous works of Western painting. If you have time for nothing else, spend at least an hour here.

卢浮宫的德农馆保存着一些世界上最著名的西方画作。就算你没时间看别的,至少也该在此逗留一个小时。

Why It’s Must See: You can begin in rooms 1 through 3 and see two stunning Botticelli frescoes, continue through the jaw-dropping Grande Galerie, filled with Italian painting and arrive at the central room that contains the “Mona Lisa.”

必看理由:你可以从1至3号展厅开始,欣赏波提切利的两幅绝美壁画,然后穿过令人叹为观止、满是意大利绘画的大画廊(Grande Galerie),抵达居于中心位置、陈列着《蒙娜丽莎》的展厅。

What to Look For: Everyone will be taking selfies, clustered around Leonardo da Vinci’s famous portrait of Lisa Gherardini, better known as the Mona Lisa, but you’ll be richly rewarded if you turn your back on her and explore the surrounding rooms. As you enter the Grande Galerie (Room 5), look to the left, where you’ll find five more Leonardo paintings, and Raphael’s exquisite “Portrait of Baldassare Castiglione.” Behind the “Mona Lisa,” find four paintings by Titian, including the wonderful “The Pastoral Concert,” the inspiration for Édouard Manet’s later “The Luncheon on the Grass.”

看点:每个人都会挤在莱昂纳多·达·芬奇为丽莎·盖拉尔迪尼(Lisa Gherardini)——人称蒙娜丽莎——画的那幅肖像周围自拍,但你如果抛开她,转而探索周遭的展厅,一定大有收获。当你进入大画廊(5号展厅)时,向左看,会发现达·芬奇的另外五幅画作以及拉斐尔精美的《巴尔达萨雷·卡斯蒂利奥内画像》(Baldassare Castiglione)。在《蒙娜丽莎》后边,有提香的四幅作品,其中包括美妙的《田园合奏》,它是爱德华·马奈后来创作《草地上的野餐》的灵感之源。

Nearby: From here you can directly enter the French paintings department.

周边:从这里你可以直接进入法国绘画部。

TRAVEL IN NILE

尼罗河之旅

Sully Wing, Egyptian Galleries | Ground floor, Rooms 1 to 14

苏利馆,埃及馆 | 一层,1至14号展厅

Thanks to I.M. Pei’s beautiful pyramid entryway to the Louvre, which opened in 1989, it’s impossible to forget that one of the beloved highlights of the museum is its massive Egyptian antiquities collection, made up of more than 66,000 artifacts, with almost 7,000 of them on display across 35 rooms in the Sully Wing.

得益于贝聿铭设计、于1989年开放的金字塔形美丽入口,到访者不可能忘记:这家博物馆最珍贵的馆藏之一,就是由6.6万件艺术品构成的庞大埃及文物收藏,其中将近7000件都在苏利馆的35个展厅里展出。

Why It’s Must See: You’ll never see so many sarcophagi in one place anywhere else.

必看理由:在其他任何地方,你都不可能一次性见到这么多石棺。

What to Look For: Enter the Egyptian Wing through the lower downstairs level of the Pavillon de L’Horloge and you’ll first encounter the 12-ton Great Sphinx of Tanis, with a lion’s body and a human head, sculpted sometime between 2,600 and 1,900 B.C. Continue through the downstairs chambers, where you’ll see wonderful model ships (Room 3), a colossal statue of Rameses II (Room 12) and end up in the amazing sarcophagus room (Room 14) where you’ll find a large glass vitrine filled with upright mummy cases.

看点:经由钟阁(Pavillon de l'Horloge)那矮矮的楼梯进入埃及馆,你首先会看到重达12吨、在公元前2600年至公元前1900年之间雕刻而成的《狮身人面像 》(Great Sphinx of Tanis)。接着穿过楼下的房间——在那些地方你会看到美妙的模型船(3号展厅),以及一件拉美西斯二世(Rameses II)的巨大雕像(12号展厅)——最终来到令人惊叹的石棺房(14号展厅),发现一个巨大的玻璃柜,那里满是直立的人形棺。

Nearby: When you leave the museum, walk through the Tuileries Garden to Place de la Concorde, where you’ll find the Luxor Obelisk, a gift to King Charles X from Mehmet Ali Pasha of Egypt. It once stood at the entrance to the Luxor Temple.

周边:离开博物馆的时候,穿过杜乐丽花园抵达协和广场,你会看到卢克索方尖碑,一件由埃及的穆罕默德·阿里帕夏(Mehmet Ali Pasha)送给国王查理十世的礼物。它曾伫立在卢克索神庙入口处。

REMBRANDT’S MOST SYMPATHETIC PORTRAIT

最令人动容的伦勃朗肖像

Richelieu Wing, Second Floor | Northern European paintings, Rooms 30 to 39

黎塞留馆(Richelieu Wing),三层 | 北欧绘画,30至39号展厅

The Dutch Golden Age is dominated by two towering figures of art history: Rembrandt and Vermeer. Here you find key masterpieces by both artists, including Vermeer’s “The Astronomer” (1668) and “The Lacemaker” (1669-70), as well as four Rembrandt self-portraits and works by many other old masters.

主导荷兰黄金时代的是艺术史上的两个顶级人物:伦勃朗和弗美尔。在此你能看到这两位艺术家至关重要的杰作,其中包括弗美尔的《天文学家》(1668)和伦勃朗的四幅自画像,还能看到其他很多早期大师的作品。

Why It’s Must See: Rembrandt’s paintings capture the depths of the drama of the human soul, and his work “Bathsheba at Her Bath” (1654) is a prime example of this. Rembrandt specialized in portraits made on commission, but his favorite work was biblical scenes. In this painting, he combines the two genres in his most naturalist nude, for which his lover, Hendrickje Stoffels, served as a model. Bathsheba has just received a letter in which the king has summoned her to seduce her. If she goes, she will betray her husband. If she doesn’t, she will disobey the king.

必看理由:伦勃朗的绘画捕捉到了人类灵魂深处的戏剧性,其作品《沐浴的拔士巴》(1654)便是很好的例证。伦勃朗专门接受委托为人绘制肖像,但他很喜欢描绘圣经场景。在这幅作品中,他把两者融入了自己笔下最具自然主义色彩的裸体中,充当模特的是他的情人亨德里克耶·斯托菲尔斯(Hendrickje Stoffels)。画中的拔士巴刚刚收到国王为了勾引她而召她觐见的信函,如果去了,她就要背叛自己的丈夫。如果不去,她就要违抗国王的旨意。

What to Look For: When you gaze upon “Bathsheba at Her Bath,” take some time to look at her face, which perfectly captures the terrible, and impossible, choice she must make.

看点:当你驻足欣赏《沐浴的拔士巴》时,不妨花时间研究一下她脸上的表情,作者用它完美地诠释出她必须做出一个多么糟糕、多么难以忍受的选择。

Nearby: Find other Dutch and Flemish old masters, like Peter Paul Rubens, Frans Hals and Jan Steen, in surrounding rooms on the second floor of the Richelieu Wing.

周边:在黎塞留馆三层周遭的展厅里,还能找到彼得·保罗·鲁本斯、佛兰斯·哈尔斯、扬·斯蒂恩等其他荷兰和佛兰芒早期大师的作品。

Off the Beaten Path

打破常规

Looking for hidden treasures? These four galleries contain historical gems in quieter spaces.

要寻觅隐藏的宝藏?以下四个展馆在相对静谧之处保存着历史瑰宝。

Medieval Louvre │Pavillon de l’Horloge

中世纪卢浮宫│时钟馆(Pavillon de l’Horloge)

Once open only to select visitors, the underground chambers of the Louvre were recently renovated with widened walkways and exhibition spaces that allow the public to see the foundations of the original fortress. Named the Pavillon de l’Horloge (the Clock Pavilion), this section makes you feel as if you’re in the underground castle — in fact, you’re walking through what was once the watery moat.

卢浮宫的这些展厅一度只是有限开放的,最近经过翻建后,通道和展览空间得到拓宽,这里的原城堡地基由此可以向公众开放。这个名为时钟馆的区域,会让你有置身地下城堡之感——事实上,你正穿行其中的地方,原本是有水的护城河。

Room of Ingres Paintings, Sully Wing | Room 60

安格尔绘画作品室,苏利馆│60号展厅

A side trip to the French galleries on the first floor is rewarding. You’ll find a room full of Neoclassical works by Jean-Auguste- Dominique Ingres, the 19th-century French painter who was fascinated by the female form. These include “The Valpinçon Bather” (1808) and “The Turkish Bath” (1862), evocative and sumptuous, and a great departure from the saccharine Romantic works in the hallways of the French Wing.

顺道去一趟二层的法国馆是值得的。你会发现一个展厅里满是痴迷于女性外表的19世纪法国画家让·奥古斯特·多米尼克·安格尔(Jean-Auguste Dominique Ingres)的新古典主义作品。其中包括《瓦平松的浴女》(The Valpinçon Bather,1808)和《土耳其浴》(The Turkish Bath,1962),瑰丽而又引人遐思,与法国馆走廊中那些甜美的浪漫主义作品大相径庭。

Early Northern European Masterpieces, Richelieu Wing | Second floor, Rooms 6 to 12

北欧早期名作,黎塞留馆 | 三层,6至12号展厅

Hieronymus Bosch, an early Dutch painter, is known for his fantastic scenes of heaven and damnation, filled with bizarre little demons. Find one of his most famous works, “Ship of Fools” in this section. Nearby are other Flemish works of the late middle ages and early Renaissance, like a portrait of Erasmus by Hans Holbein the Younger and a rare self-portrait by Albrecht Dürer. (Be aware: These rooms are being renovated and will be closed until the end of 2017.)

荷兰早期画家耶罗尼米斯·波希(Hieronymus Bosch)以其笔下关于天堂和诅咒、满是古怪小恶魔的奇幻场景闻名。在这里能找到他最著名的作品之一《愚人船》(Ship of Fools)。旁边还有中世纪晚期和文艺复兴早期的其他佛兰芒作品,比如小汉斯·霍尔拜因(Hans Holbein the Younger)为伊拉斯谟画的肖像,以及一幅稀有的阿尔布雷特·丢勒自画像。(注意:这些展厅目前正在翻修,会一直关闭到2017年底。)

Chardin Still Lifes, Sully Wing | Second floor, Rooms 38 & 39

夏尔丹的静物,苏利馆 | 三层,38和39号展厅

There’s a divine cluster of still-life paintings by Jean-Baptiste-Siméon Chardin in Rooms 38 and 39. “The Ray” (1725-26), his strangely anthropomorphized image of a dead stingray, has long fascinated visitors, but an even more interesting collection is in a glass-covered wall of Room 39. The French Impressionists were known to visit these rooms to sketch, and it’s easy to see how they were influenced by the muted tones and loose brush strokes.

在38和39号展厅,陈列着让·巴蒂斯特·西梅翁·夏尔丹(Jean-Baptiste-Siméon Chardin)的一批以静物为主题的佳作。在《鳐鱼》(The Ray,1725-1726年)中,他对一条死鳐鱼做了诡异的人格化描绘。这幅画一直让参观者们颇为着迷,但在39号展厅覆有玻璃的墙壁上陈列着一个更有意思的作品系列。人们知道法国印象派画家们曾来这两个展厅画速写,很容易就能看出这柔和的色调和松弛的笔触对他们有多大影响。

Amazing Spaces

绝妙空间

While admiring thousands of paintings and sculptures, don't forget to see the Louvre itself.

在赞叹成千上万件画作和雕塑的同时,别忘欣赏卢浮宫自身的美。

APOLLO GALLERY, DENON WING | FIRST FLOOR, ROOM 66

阿波罗画廊(Apollo Gallery),德农馆|二层66号展厅

The high arches and frescoed walls of this single chamber are jaw-droppingly ornate, like nothing you will ever experience in ordinary life, and worth a prolonged gander. The room seems to be dripping with gold, worked into every doorknob and wall moulding, and holding up the glass tables and vitrines in the center of the gallery, which contain the royal crowns. The gallery was started as the Galerie des rois (Gallery of Kings) in 1661 and painted by Charles Le Brun, who left it incomplete when he went to work on his commissions at Versailles instead. It was completed by the French Romantic artist Eugène Delacroix in 1851.

这个宫室高高的拱顶和绘满壁画的墙壁华丽至极,令人瞠目结舌,日常生活中可见不到这样的东西,值得久久驻足观看。整个展厅似乎布满黄金,门上的每个球形把手与每个墙砖造型都是金质的。还有画廊中央的玻璃桌和盛放皇冠的展柜,它们的腿也是黄金制成。这座画廊于1661年开始兴建,原名国王画廊(Gallery of Kings),壁画由夏尔·勒·布朗(Charles Le Brun)绘制,但他没有画完就去做凡尔赛宫的工作,最后由法国浪漫主义画家欧仁·德拉克洛瓦(Eugène Delacroix)于1851年完成。

ISLAMIC GALLERIES, DENON WING | GROUND FLOOR AND LOWER LEVEL

伊斯兰画廊(Islamic Galleries),德农馆 |一层及地下层

One of the newest wings of the Louvre, built in 2012, this section is two underground floors with a golden, undulating roof known as the “veil,” which allows in filtered light and creates a restful, contemplative space that’s particularly lovely for exploring Islamic artifacts. Treasures here include a 17th-century dagger with a horsehead hilt from the Rothschild collection and a 14th-century hammered brass bowl, known as the “Baptistry of Saint Louis,” made by Muhammad ibn al-Zayn in Egypt.

这是卢浮宫的几座新馆之一,于2012年落成,占据了地下的两层空间,起伏的金色屋顶被称为“面纱”,过滤着照射下来的光线,营造出一个深沉宁静的空间,特别适合探索伊斯兰文物。这里收藏的珍品包括一把17世纪的匕首,带有马头手柄,来自罗斯柴尔德(Rothschild)的藏品;还有一只来自14世纪的锻造黄铜碗,名为“圣路易斯洗礼盆”(Baptistry of Saint Louis),由埃及的穆罕默德·伊本·阿里-扎伊(Muhammad ibn al-Zayn)制造。

NAPOLEON III APARTMENTS, RICHELIEU WING | FIRST FLOOR, ROOMS 82 TO 92

拿破仑三世套房(Napoleon III Apartments),黎塞留馆(Richelieu Wing) |二层82至92展厅

The former chambers of Napoleon III span several rooms of the Richelieu Wing, built by architects Louis Visconti and Hector LeFeul in the 1850s. It’s still extraordinary to observe the high style of living to which this emperor was accustomed, especially in Room 87, the spectacular Grand Salon, with its red velvet chairs, frescoed ceiling and gilded mouldings, and the rococo state dining room, with its table that seats nearly 100 people.

拿破仑三世以前住的房间跨越了黎塞留馆的几个展厅,它由建筑师路易·维斯孔蒂(Louis Visconti)和埃克多尔·勒弗(Hector LeFeul)于1850年代建造。这个皇帝日常习惯的高端生活方式现在看来依然令人惊叹,特别是87号展厅壮观的大沙龙,里面有红色天鹅绒椅子、绘着壁画的天花板和镀金墙线,以及洛可可风格的国宴厅,里面的大桌能供将近100人用餐。

MARLY COURT, RICHELIEU WING | GROUND FLOOR AND LOWER LEVEL

马利中庭(Marly Court),黎塞留馆|一层及地下层

This extraordinary sculpture court filled with white marble and stone works used to be an outdoor courtyard between the Napoleonic Court and the Rue de Rivoli, but was covered with a glass roof in 1989 during the museum redesign by Mr. Pei (which also brought the glass pyramid to the Louvre). Now it is a very restful and light-filled space within the museum, where you can amble and look at some of the museum’s sculpture collection, or else just get a breath of air.

这个非凡的雕塑庭院内满是白色大理石雕与其他石雕,以前是拿破仑中庭(Napoleonic Court)和里沃利街之间的户外庭院,但在1989年贝聿铭扩建博物馆的过程中被加上了玻璃屋顶(那次扩建也为卢浮宫带来了玻璃金字塔)。现在,这里是博物馆内部一处气氛宁静、光线充足的空间,你可以在这里漫步,观赏一些博物馆的雕塑藏品,抑或只是呼吸一点新鲜空气。

SUMMER APARTMENTS OF ANNE OF AUSTRIA, DENON WING | GROUND FLOOR, ROOMS 22 TO 28

奥地利的安娜夏日套房(Summer Apartments of Anne of Austria),德农馆|一层22至28展厅

Look up when you enter the section of the Denon Wing that houses the Greek, Roman and Etruscan antiquities, because the exquisite gilded décor of these six rooms is all in the breathtaking ceilings. King Louis XIV had this part of the museum built for his mother’s summer apartments in 1655, commissioning the Italian Baroque painter Giovanni Francesco Romanelli to create the vividly colored paintings, set between the fantastically embellished stucco, by Michel Anguier and Pietro Sasso. The juxtaposition of the white sculptural works from antiquity works wonders against all the wild rococo ornamentation.

德农馆的这一部分是用来收藏希腊、罗马和伊特鲁里亚文物的,进来时别忘了抬头看,因为这六个房间里的精美镀金装饰都在令人惊叹的天花板上。博物馆的这个部分是路易十四国王于1655年为母亲建造的,作为她的夏季套房,他委托意大利巴洛克画家米凯隆·弗朗西斯科·罗马内利(Michelon Francesco Romanelli)创作了色彩鲜明的壁画,它们位于米歇尔·安吉尔(Michel Anguier)和彼特罗·萨索(Pietro Sasso)悉心打造的精美灰泥装饰之间。展厅内一座座来自古代的白色雕塑仿佛在惊奇地打量着周围极尽华丽的洛可可式装潢。

Going With Kids?

带孩子一起去?

There’s no need to leave the kids home to enjoy the Louvre.

要逛卢浮宫,不必把孩子留在家里。

Unlike many modern museums, the Louvre doesn’t have dedicated play areas or activity centers for children, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t welcome here. There’s plenty for them to see and to explore, and most of the museum offers experiences that will be memorable for a lifetime. Depending on the age of the child, plan your trip to last one to two hours. You don’t need to worry about the expense: Admission is free for visitors under 18.

与许多现代博物馆不同,卢浮宫没有专门的儿童游乐区或活动中心,但这不意味着他们不受欢迎。这里有许多东西可供他们观赏和探索,博物馆中的大部分区域都可以提供终身难忘的经历。根据孩子的年龄,你可以把参观时间设计为一两个小时之内。不必担心费用:18岁以下的游客可免费入场。

Tip: Strollers and baby carriers are available free of charge at the visitor assistance area.

小贴士:参观者帮助区免费提供婴儿车和婴儿背带。

MAKE YOUR TRIP INTO A GAME

让参观变成游戏

The museum’s audio guide includes a Nintendo game program in English designed to help children enjoy the Egyptian Wing, which is a lot of fun for visitors over 5. If you are traveling with younger children, encourage them to spot animals — which can be found everywhere, from the famous little blue hippo in the Egyptian ing to the dogs in “The Wedding Feast at Cana” (1563).

博物馆的音频向导中包括一个英语的任天堂游戏程序,用来帮助孩子们享受埃及馆,它对于5岁以上的游客来说是非常有趣的。如果是和和更小的孩子一起参观,可以鼓励他们寻找动物——它们处处可见,从埃及馆著名的蓝色小河马到油画《迦拿的婚礼》(The Wedding Feast at Cana, 1563)中的狗。

HELP THEM FIND THE DETAILS

帮助他们找到细节

The foundations of the old castle in the new Pavillon de l’Horloge is a terrific space for kids to explore. Encourage them to look at the stones to find the markings left by the stonemasons who built the castle in medieval times — like hearts and crosses.

新的时钟馆(Pavillon de l'Horloge)里的老城堡地基是孩子们探索的绝佳空间。鼓励他们观察那些石头,找到在中世纪建造城堡的石匠们留下的痕迹——比如心形和十字架。

GET OUTSIDE

到户外去

End your museum visit with a trip to the Tuileries Garden, just outside, where kids can steer little multicolored sailing boats around the pond, jump on trampolines near the Terrasse des Feuillants or ride the carousel.

不妨以探访就在外边的杜乐丽花园结束你的卢浮宫之旅。孩子们可以在花园内的水池里驾驶多彩的小帆船,在斐扬平台(Terrasse des Feuillants)附近的蹦床上跳跃,还可以骑旋转木马。

Tips for Visiting the Louvre

卢浮宫参观小贴士

GETTING IN

进馆

The best times to go: Opening time, 9 a.m. every day except Tuesday (when the museum is closed). The museum is mobbed just after lunch, around 1 p.m. If you visit in the afternoon, wait until about 3 p.m. On Friday evenings, the museum stays open until 9:45 p.m. and makes a fun night out, and admission is free after 6 p.m. for anyone under 26 years old.

最佳进馆时间:每天上午9点这个开馆时间,除了周二(闭馆日)。午餐时间刚过,也就是下午1点左右,这座博物馆会人满为患。如果要在下午参观,你可以等到3点左右。周五晚间,博物馆会开至9点45分,不妨在这里度过一个有趣的夜晚,而且周五晚6点过后,任何年龄小于26岁的人都可以免票进入。

Getting there: Take the Métro to the Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre stop on the No. 1 or No. 7 line.

如何抵达:乘地铁1号线或7号线到卢浮宫博物馆站。

Avoid long lines: Purchase your tickets online and use the Passage Richelieu entrance. An escalator takes you directly into the entry hall.

避免排长队:在网上买好票,并使用黎塞留通道入口。一部电梯会把你直接带到门厅处。

PLAN YOUR DAY

做好一天的规划

There are useful, introductory guided tours in English every day at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. These “Welcome to the Louvre” tours will take you to the Louvre’s great ladies: “Mona Lisa,” “Winged Victory of Samothrace” and “Venus de Milo,” as well as to a selection of other masterpieces that can vary depending on the guide. Tickets can only be arranged once you’re at the museum and cost 12 euros, about $13, (or 9 if you are under 26, and 5 for job seekers, people on income support, and visitors with disabilities and their aides).

每天上午11点和下午2点,会有说英语的导游带队参观,其讲解很有用处和指导性。这些“欢迎菜鸟游”会带你去见卢浮宫的几位女神——《蒙娜丽莎》、《萨莫色雷斯的胜利女神》(Winged Victory of Samothrace)和《米洛斯的维纳斯》(Venus de Milo),还会带你去参观其他一系列精选出来的杰作,具体是哪些则因向导的不同而各异。只有人在馆中,才能购买听讲解的票,票价为12欧元,约合13美元,(如果你的年纪小于26岁,票价为9欧元,针对失业者、领取低收入补贴者还有残疾人及其照看者的票价为5欧元)。

We don’t particularly recommend the audio guide, which has rather dull information and can be frustrating to use, especially if you want to orient yourself or build your own walking tour through the museum. However, it does have a Nintendo feature that is fun for kids (see above). Try downloading the Louvre app (available on the App Store and Google Play); it works on Wi-Fi and can be used on a limited basis for free, but there is a charge if you want additional information (up to 4.99). Be sure not to download any unofficial Louvre app, which could contain inaccurate information, like incorrect locations for artworks.

我们不太建议你使用语音导览,因为里面的信息比较枯燥无味,用起来也很费事,尤其是你在你想给自己定位,或自己设计参观路线的情况下。不过,它的确有一种任天堂游戏功能,对小孩来说会比较有趣(详见上文)。可以下载卢浮宫的app(App Store和Google Play商店都有提供);它需要在有Wi-Fi的环境下使用,有些功能是免费的,但如果你想要更多的信息,就需要付费(最高4.99欧元)。一定不要下载任何非官方的卢浮宫软件,里面可能会包含不准确的信息,比如把艺术品所在的位置搞错。

The Wi-Fi works pretty well throughout the museum, except in the underground floors. There is no place to recharge your devices inside the museum, so bring a portable charger if you plan to stay awhile.

除了地下楼层,整个博物馆内的Wi-Fi信号都很通畅。馆内没有给电子设备充电的地方,所以如果你准备待的时间比较长,记得带上便携充电器。

You’ll find a lot of cafes throughout the museum in different departments, all of them offering simple sandwiches, paninis, drinks and treats. These can be enough to keep you going without needing to exit the galleries (which will cost you 20 minutes in any direction). We recommend the mini-quiches at Paul, the cafe in the central pavilion under the Pyramid.

你会发现博物馆内有许多咖啡馆,他们分布在各个部分,提供简单的三明治、意式帕尼尼三明治、饮品和零食,足以解决你的饮食需求,这样你就能一直逛下去,不用到博物馆外去吃饭(不管从哪个方向出去,都要花费20分钟)。我们向你推荐保罗咖啡馆的迷你乳蛋饼,位置就在玻璃金字塔下方的中间场馆内。

ON YOUR WAY OUT

出馆后的建议

For a splurge, and an excellent one indeed, exit the museum by the Richelieu Wing escalator and dine at the Le Café Marly, with an elegant terrace overlooking the glass pyramid. Lunch for two will easily set you back 100. (The salade niçoise is one of the best in the world). Or you can just do as the Parisians do and drop in after your visit for one of their famous hot chocolates with whipped cream. (They’re nice for kids and adults alike).

奢侈一点的话——实际上是很棒的选择——可以乘黎塞留馆的自动扶梯出博物馆,在玛莉咖啡馆(Le Café Marly)用餐,那里有一座优雅的露台,可以眺望卢浮宫的玻璃金字塔。两人午餐,至少会花费100欧元(那里的尼斯沙拉是世界最好吃的之一)。或者,你也可以像巴黎人一样,在参观完博物馆之后顺路去点一杯那里有名的鲜奶油热巧克力(不管是对孩子还是成人来说,都很不错)。

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