您现在的位置: 纽约时报中英文网 >> 纽约时报中英文版 >> 旅游 >> 正文

36小时玩转东京

更新时间:2017-4-30 10:56:01 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Tokyo
36小时玩转东京

Contemplating the physical sprawl of Tokyo is dizzying. The Japanese megalopolis has no discernible center, and clusters of skyscrapers miles apart defy the idea of a downtown core. The busiest areas — from Shibuya in the west to Ginza in the east — are electrifying hives of activity. But when time is limited, don’t be distracted by the hypnotic, multistory video screens. Instead, focus on a diverse cross-section of neighborhoods, from peaceful Nakameguro to eclectic Koenji, for a taste of this capital that will leave you hungry for more.

庞大的东京令人眼花缭乱。这座日本特大型城市没有明显的中心,每隔几英里就有一片摩天楼群,推翻了所谓市中心的概念。从西部的涩谷到东部的银座,这些最繁华的地段无不充满活力,熙熙攘攘。但是,如果时间有限,不要看着几层楼高的大屏幕出了神。相反,不妨专心游览一个多样化的典型街区,从宁静的中目黑到无所不有的高圆寺,悉心品味这座都市,会让你渴望了解它的更多。

Friday

星期五

1) 3:30 P.M. AOYAMA ARCHITECTURE

1)下午3:30:青山建筑(Aoyama Architecture)

A drink at Gen Yamamoto.
Gen Yamamoto的饮品。

2) 6 P.M. GEN’S DEN

2)下午6点:Gen的酒馆

The epicure who wants to engage in mindful drinking will find enlightenment on one of the eight seats in the spartan, Zen-like cocktail den Gen Yamamoto. The bar itself is a slab of Japanese oak behind which the eponymous bartender, clad in a crisp white jacket, mixes his creations with precision. The cocktails, in exquisite glassware, balance spirits with fresh seasonal ingredients, including kumquats from Kagawa or fava beans from Kagoshima. A four-cocktail tasting menu is 4,500 yen.

Gen Yamamoto是一家装潢简朴、颇具禅意的鸡尾酒屋,只有八个座位,一心品酒的美食家可以在这里得到启迪。吧台由一整块日本橡木制成,后面站着调酒师,酒馆就是以他的名字命名的,他身穿清新的白色外套,精准地调和着自己的作品。鸡尾酒被装在精美的玻璃杯中,搭配新鲜的时令食材,包括来自香川县的金橘或来自鹿儿岛的蚕豆。包含四道鸡尾酒的品尝套餐价格为4500日元。

3) 9 P.M. SKEWERED SUPPER

3)晚上9点:烤串晚餐

Wander through the narrow lanes of Nakameguro, a laid-back neighborhood bisected by the leafy canal of the Meguro River, to dinner at Nakameguro Iguchi, a stylish second-floor yakitori restaurant. A single bonsai serves as décor behind the 10-seat bar, where the friendly chef twirls skewers over the charcoal grill. The set menu, nearly two-dozen courses, recently included the usual chicken bits — tail, heart, wing — and creative offerings like grilled caciocavallo cheese from Hokkaido and refreshing chawanmushi (egg custard) with avocado, seasonal asparagus and lemon peel. Dinner for two, about 15,000 yen.

中目黑是一个悠闲的地段,绿树成荫的目黑运河横贯而过,在狭窄的小巷间漫步来到中目黑Iguchi店,这家时尚的烤肉屋位于二楼,10个座位的吧台后面摆放着一个盆景作为装饰,友善的大厨在木炭烤架上旋转烤串。一套菜单上包括二十多道菜肴,最近的菜品既包括最常见的鸡肉串——鸡屁股、鸡心、鸡翼——也有各种创意菜品,诸如来自北海道的烤马背奶酪,以及爽口的茶碗蒸配牛油果、时令芦笋和柠檬皮。二人晚餐约15000日元。

4) 11 P.M. GIMME SHELTER

4)晚上11点:给我庇护

Leave the neon frenzy of Shibuya to the teeny-boppers and instead seek out night life in Shimokitazawa, two miles to the west. This cool indie neighborhood is home to many small music spots, called “live houses,” that host shows ranging from avant-garde pop to punk. At Shelter, a former bomb shelter, watch up-and-coming local rock bands on the checkerboard stage.

涩谷的霓虹灯还是留给少男少女们吧。你可以到西边两英里外的下北泽去过夜生活。这个很酷的独立社区有许多被称为“live house”的小型音乐场所,举办从前卫流行乐到朋克乐在内的各种演出。其中“庇护所”(Shelter),是由防空洞改建而来,西洋棋盘图案的舞台上活跃着许多大有前途的本土摇滚乐队。

Saturday

星期六

5) 10 A.M. MUSEUM MILE

5)上午10点:博物馆路(Museum Mile)

6) 1 P.M. SUSHI DREAMS

6)下午1点:寿司之梦

Dinners at Tokyo’s top sushi bars typically end with bills printed with an immodest number of zeros, but you can fulfill your sushi dreams for a fraction of the price by eating at midday. Reserve a spot at Sushi Rin, a hushed second-story space in Kagurazaka with about a dozen seats around a blond-wood bar. At lunchtime, the omakase meal (4,000 yen) features fewer courses but the same craftsmanship and top-notch products, from a spoonful of salty roe atop vinegared rice to a parade of nigiri including red snapper, silvery kohada fish and rich tuna belly brushed with soy sauce. Equally memorable is the artful presentation on beautiful plates beside crimson cut-glass sake sets.

在东京顶级寿司屋享用晚餐的典型结果就是收到一份天价账单,但是如果在午餐时间光顾的话,一点点钱也能圆你的寿司梦。凛寿司(Sushi Rin)位于神乐坂,需要订位,这里是一个格外宁静的二层空间,大约十几个座位围绕着金色的木头吧台。午餐时间的厨师发办料理(4000日元)菜品不多,但是和晚餐以同样的精湛厨艺制成,拥有同样的一流品质,从醋腌米饭上的一勺咸鱼子到整排握寿司都是如此,寿司包括红色的鲷鱼寿司、银色的小鳍鱼寿司和刷了酱油的肥美金枪鱼腩寿司。食物如同艺术品一般盛放在美丽的碟子里,搭配深红色的刻花玻璃清酒杯,和食物本身同样令人难忘。

7) 3:30 P.M. STYLE GUIDE

7)下午3:30:风格指南

Browse Tokyo’s retail options at two shopping complexes on opposite ends of the style spectrum. Start in Kagurazaka at La Kagu, a former book warehouse that reopened in 2014 as a shop, cafe and bookstore reached via snaking timber-and-steel staircases designed by Kengo Kuma. The airy two-story space stocks fashions and housewares, from tailored silk trousers and teak Danish bar carts to tiny wooden hand-carved creamers. Then head west to Koenji’s Kitakore building, a riotous, ramshackle warren of closet-size shops overflowing with customized clothing and labels you won’t find anywhere else. Looking for a lace-trimmed ’80s-era Mickey Mouse sweatshirt? Or a purple motorcycle jacket with sparkly studs, mirrors and a gorilla hologram? This is the spot.

东京的两个购物中心堪称位于时尚风格谱系的两极,可以分别前往一观。先从神乐坂的La Kagu开始,这里从前是书店的仓库,2014年重新开放时成了商店、咖啡馆和书店,要通过蜿蜒的木材与钢结构楼梯走上去,是由隈研吾(Kengo Kuma)设计的。通透的两层空间内贩卖时尚与家居用品,从量身定制的丝绸长裤、柚木丹麦酒吧推车到小巧的木质手工雕刻乳罐,应有尽有。然后向西前往高圆寺的Kitakore地带,这里是一个混乱喧闹的街区,到处都是衣柜大小的店铺,里面塞满别处见不到的定制服装和品牌。你想找一件80年代蕾丝花边的米老鼠运动衫?还是一件缀着闪亮铆钉、镜片和大猩猩全息图案的紫色机车夹克?来这里就对了。

8) 6 P.M. NAKANO BREW

8)下午6点:中野酿造

Take the train one stop east to Nakano, a neighborhood favored by otaku (young pop-culture fanatics), to find a pair of drinking spots worth obsessing over. Hidden amid the manga stores and costume shops in a labyrinthine subculture shopping complex is Bar Zingaro, a cafe that fuses Norwegian exports — midcentury Scandinavian furnishings, Fuglen coffee — with the colorful art of Takashi Murakami. Tucked down a nearby alley, Nakano Beer Kobo is a tiny bar that feels like a treehouse with particleboard walls and lofts that you can climb into with plates of fried chicken thighs and mugs of cold beer brewed on site.

乘火车往东一站来到中野区,这是一个受到御宅族(青年流行文化狂热爱好者)青睐的街区,来这里找几个让人沉迷的地方喝几杯吧。在一片迷宫般的亚文化购物区中,Bar Zingaro掩藏在无数漫画店与服装店之内,这是一家咖啡馆,既有布置着世纪中期斯堪的纳维亚风格家具的Fuglen咖啡馆,又有五彩缤纷的村上隆(Takashi Murakami)艺术品。中野啤酒工房(Nakano Beer Kobo)是附近一条小巷上的小酒吧,感觉像是一座有刨花板墙壁和高挑开敞空间的树屋,你可以带着大盘炸鸡腿和鲜榨冰啤酒爬上去。

9) 9 P.M. PHOTO SHOOT

9)晚上9点:拍照片

Karaoke is the clichéd Japanese entertainment experience, but the Snapchat era calls for a new activity: purikura. These sophisticated photo booths let you pose with friends, decorate the images with scribbles and stamps, and mutate your features — bigger eyes, different hair — to mimic a Disney character. For the widest selection, go to Purikura Shop Noa, a basement-level spot in Harajuku with booths for creating personalized only-in-Japan souvenirs.

卡拉OK已经成了老一套的日本娱乐,Snapchat时代需要新的活动:大头贴照相(purikura)。这些精巧的照相亭可以让你和朋友摆姿势拍照,用涂鸦和印章装饰照片,并且改变自己样子——增大眼睛、换发型——还可以模仿迪士尼人物。要找选择最多的地方,就去位于原宿地下空间的诺亚大头贴店(Purikura Shop Noa)吧,在那里的各种照相亭制作日本独有的个性化纪念品。

10) 10:30 P.M. EBISU EXPLORATION

10)晚10:30:探索惠比寿

For dinner, join local residents swarming the Ebisu Yokocho, a covered passageway crammed with food stalls that roar to life after dark. Grab the first seats you see — they’re a commodity — and prepare to feast on okonomiyaki (savory pancakes) or kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers, like lotus root or shishito peppers). Then head to Bar Tram, a polished cocktail bar that mixes absinthe into libations like the frothy, flaming Blanche Neige (G’Vine gin, vermouth, apple syrup and lemon; 1,300 yen). End the night at Bar Track, a low-key music bar where D.J.s spin a range of music, including Miles Davis and Prince B-sides on vinyl, while bartenders mix whiskey highballs.

晚餐后,到人头攒动的惠比寿横丁(Ebisu Yokocho)加入当地居民的行列吧,这是一条加盖天棚的道路,天一黑就挤满了食物小摊。看到座位就要马上冲过去——它们可是抢手货——然后就可以饱餐一顿大阪烧(咸味煎饼)或者炸串(油炸串,比如莲藕或小青椒)。接下来前往Bar Tram,这是一个精致的鸡尾酒吧,把苦艾酒混入酒中,比如这款冒着泡沫与火焰的“白雪公主”(Blanche Neige ,包含G'Vine 杜松子酒、味美思酒、苹果糖浆和柠檬;1300日元)。这个夜晚不妨在Bar Track结束,它是一个低调的音乐酒吧,DJ播放各种音乐,包括迈尔斯·戴维斯(Miles Davis)和“王子”(Prince)的B面歌曲黑胶,而调酒师则为你调上一杯威士忌加冰酒。

Sunday

星期日

11) 10 A.M. CAFFEINE NATION

11)上午10点 咖啡因之国

In a city filled with excellent coffee spots, the one worth a detour is Onibus Coffee Nakameguro. Opened last year by a beloved local roaster, the shop occupies a stucco microhouse beside a park. The best spot to savor a velvety double-shot latte (500 yen) is on the small patio, near the Diedrich roaster, which periodically releases an intoxicatingly toasty aroma.

在一个到处都是优秀咖啡店的城市,Onibus咖啡中目黑店依然值得专程去一去。这家店去年由当地一位深受喜爱的烘焙师开办,是一家公园旁边的一座灰泥小屋。小露台上的Diedrich烘焙机不时散发出迷人的烘焙香气,在这里享用一杯天鹅绒般丝滑的双份拿铁咖啡(500日元)真是再好不过

12) 11:30 A.M. DAIKANYAMA DESIGNS

12)上午11:30:代官山设计

Follow fashionable Tokyoites toward trendy Daikanyama and its streets peppered with cool shops. Delve into Daikanyama T-Site, whose three interconnected buildings sheathed in white lattice might constitute the world’s most beautiful bookstore. The complex has areas for design, travel, music, movies, photography and more. Then head to Harcoza, a glitter-doused boutique where you can model puff-sleeve blouses and asymmetric fuchsia skirts on the fitting room’s fairy-tale stage.

跟随时尚的东京人来到时髦的代官山(Daikanyama)及其街道,这里的街头到处都是酷炫的商店。代官山茑屋书店(Daikanyama T-Site)三栋相互连接的大厦包裹在白色格子框架之中,可能是世界上最美的书店。这座综合书店内有设计、旅游、音乐、电影、摄影等领域的图书。然后前往Harcoza,这是一个闪闪发光的精品店,你可以在试衣间的童话舞台上试穿泡泡袖衬衫和不对称的蓬蓬裙。

13) 2:30 P.M. A WHOLE NEW BALLGAME

13)下午2:30:全新赛事

In Japanese baseball, the rules are the same (mostly), but the experience for fans is not. Snag tickets at the Tokyo Dome, the home stadium of the Yomiuri Giants, to encounter concession-stand takoyaki (octopus balls), coordinated cheering (and a ban on booing), and beer poured by salesgirls with kegs strapped to their backs. In the off-season, visit the stadium’s Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum, which explores America’s pastime on the other side of the Pacific. Then check out the adjacent Edo-era park Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens (300 yen).

日本棒球的规则没什么不同(基本上),但球迷的体验截然不同。来一张东京巨蛋(Tokyo Dome)的门票吧,这里是读卖巨人队(Yomiuri Giants)的主场,体验一下特许经营店铺的章鱼小丸子,和众人一起欢呼(嘘声是被禁止的),销售女郎把酒桶绑在背上,为你倒上一杯啤酒。在赛季未开始的时候,可以参观体育场的棒球名人堂和博物馆,它们研究的是这项美国人的消遣在太平洋彼岸的发展情况。然后可以去参观附近的江户时代公园小石川后乐园(门票300日元)。

Lodging

住宿

The Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills (1-23-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku; 81-3-6830-1234; tokyo.andaz.hyatt.com; from about 45,000 yen) opened in 2014 on the top six floors of a new 52-story skyscraper. Expect Zen-like interiors and up-in-the-clouds views everywhere from the spa with multiple pools and the open-air rooftop bar to the 164 rooms and suites with wall-to-wall windows.

安达兹东京虎之门之丘酒店(Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills,1-23-4 Toranomon,Minato-ku; 81-3-6830-1234; tokyo.andaz.hyatt.com;一晚约4.5万日元),该酒店于2014年开放,位于一座52层摩天楼最顶层的六层楼中。拥有充满禅意的室内设计,到处都可以俯瞰景观,从多泳池水疗中心及露天屋顶酒吧,到164间客房和带落地窗的套房。

After a complete overhaul, the Capitol Hotel Tokyu (2-10-3 Nagata-cho, Chiyoda-ku; 81-3-3503-0109; www.capitolhoteltokyu.com; from about 35,000 yen) reopened in 2010 in a 29-story, latticed-steel tower designed by the architect Kengo Kuma. The landmark property has three restaurants, a multilane lap pool and 251 rooms with rice-paper screens and views of the neighboring Imperial Palace or Akasaka skyline.

2010年,东急凯彼得大酒店(Capitol Hotel Tokyu, 2-10-3 Nagata-cho, Chiyoda-ku; 81-3-3503-0109; www.capitolhoteltokyu.com; 一晚约3.5万日元)经过彻底翻修,在一栋由隈研吾设计,布满钢结构格子的29层大厦中重新开放。它的特色服务包括三间餐厅、一个多赛道泳池和251间带有米纸屏风的客房,从客房可欣赏到邻近的皇居或赤坂天际线的美景。

“全文请访问纽约时报中文网,本文发表于纽约时报中文网(http://cn.nytimes.com),版权归纽约时报公司所有。任何单位及个人未经许可,不得擅自转载或翻译。订阅纽约时报中文网新闻电邮:http://nytcn.me/subscription/”

相关文章列表