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6个步骤,教你如何正确地洗头发

更新时间:2017-4-29 10:19:13 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

There Is a Right Way to Wash Your Hair
6个步骤,教你如何正确地洗头发

Washing your hair should be as basic as slipping on your favorite bluejeans. After all, the process would seem rote at this point. But if the clients at Christophe Robin’s Paris salon are any indication, there is plenty of confusion.

和套上你心爱的牛仔裤一样,洗头发应该是一件最基本的事情。毕竟到如今你应该已经洗过无数次,早就驾轻就熟。但如果以克里斯托夫·罗宾(Christophe Robin)的巴黎发廊的顾客为鉴,这其中可是有不少令人困惑之处。

“That’s my most asked question at the salon now: ‘How do I wash my hair?’” said Mr. Robin, the star colorist who tends the locks of Catherine Deneuve and Tilda Swinton. Part of the problem is the baffling messaging about shampooing: Women have been told they are both overwashing and underwashing.

“眼下,我在沙龙里最常被问及的问题是,‘我该如何洗头?’”为凯瑟琳·德纳芙(Catherine Deneuve)和蒂尔达·斯文顿(Tilda Swinton)打理头发的明星染发师罗宾说。部分问题源自与洗头有关的令人费解的讯息:女性有时被告知她们洗得太多,有时又被告知她们洗得还不够。

“A lot of this is also from all the products we have out there now,” Mr. Robin said. “And women are so often in a rush. You have to cleanse properly. You have to take time to make sure you rinse all the products out.”

“这在很大程度上也和我们现在的所有产品有关,”罗宾说。“而且女人总是很忙。你必须正确地冲洗。你必须花些时间,以确保你把所有产品都冲干净。”

Here, Mr. Robin offers a tutorial on the right way to shampoo. He also has some tips for maximizing shine and volume, all without styling products:

在此,罗宾提供了一个关于如何正确洗头的教程。他还有一些小贴士,有助于让头发最大程度地散发光泽和蓬松有致,还不必使用造型产品。

Step 1: First detangle hair with a quality brush. Mr. Robin recommends starting at the ends. Then double back to the roots to finish the process. “You detangle first so that way you don’t have to detangle hair after, when it’s wet,” he said. “You never should use a comb on hair that is wet. It’s very stressing on the hair.”

步骤1:用一把上好的梳子梳理头发。罗宾建议从发梢处开始疏起。然后一路梳回发根处,以完成这一过程。“一开始就把头发梳好,如此一来就不必在头发被打湿以后梳理了,”他说。“你绝对不能用梳子梳理湿漉漉的头发。那样做非常伤头发。”

Step 2: Before shampooing, apply a vegetable-derived oil to the ends of hair and brush to disperse. Mr. Robin uses themoisturizing hair oil with lavender($44) from his namesake line, but he said pure almond oil or argan oil would do as well. Ideally, you would leave the oil on overnight, but even a good 15 minutes will be beneficial. Then you can skip the conditioner.

步骤2:洗发前,把提取自植物的发油抹在发梢,用发刷疏散开。罗宾用的是来自其同名品牌、含有薰衣草成分的保湿发油(44美元),但他说用纯杏仁油或阿甘油也可以。最好让发油整夜停留在发丝上,但即便是待够15分钟也很有好处。然后你可以不必使用护发素。
“I don’t love conditioners,” Mr. Robin said. “They can weigh your hair down.”
“我不喜欢护发素,”罗宾说。“它们会让头发往下坠。”

Step 3: Wash with the cleanser best suited to your hair type. “The problem is, some women are not choosing the right shampoo for their hair,” he said. Considering the sulfate-free trend in hair care lately, he noted that colored hair should never be treated with sulfate products but that sometimes a sulfate shampoo, which has a stronger detergent, is appropriate “for someone who has virgin hair and greasy roots.”

步骤3:用最适合你发质的洗发水洗头。“问题是,一些女性没能为自己的头发选择合适的洗发水,”他说。鉴于头发护理领域最近兴起了无硫酸盐趋势,他指出,绝不该把含有硫酸盐的产品用于染过的头发,但有时候,清洁效果更强的硫酸盐洗发水,很适合“某些头发未经加工、发根较油的人”。

Curlier hair, he explained, tends to be drier and can benefit from co-washing — that is, washing with a nonfoaming, conditioning cleanser as a substitute for shampoo. Mr. Robin released one of the first luxury brand co-washes some 20 years ago, his cleansing mask with lemon ($49).

他解释说,较为卷曲的头发往往更干一些,用清洁护发素(co-washing)会有好效果,也就是用一种不起泡的清洁型护发素代替传统的洗发水。大约在20年前,罗宾推出了含有柠檬成分的清洁型发膜(49美元),那是最早面世的若干奢侈品牌洗护二合一产品之一。

Mr. Robin said most women used too much product: “You should use only about a teaspoon and then you emulsify that with water.” Lather only the roots of your hair with your fingertips (not your nails), avoiding the ends. To increase volume and circulation, shampoo with your head upside down.

罗宾表示,大多数女性的用量都有些过多:“只要一勺那么多就够了,然后添水充分乳化。”用指尖(不是指甲)往头上抹,只抹发根,避开发尾。要促进发量和循环,可以垂下头洗。

Step 4: Rinse thoroughly. “This is actually a big problem because people are not taking enough time to rinse out all the product,” Mr. Robin said. “Hair should be squeaky clean.”

步骤4:彻底冲洗。“这实际上是个大问题,因为人们没有花足够多时间冲洗掉残余的洗发产品,”罗宾说。“头发要冲得极其干净才行。”

Step 5: If you decide to add a conditioner, apply only to the ends. Mr. Robin recommends a deep conditioning mask once a week to address various hair issues, including brittleness or brassy color.

步骤5:如果你决定用护发素,只抹发尾就好。罗宾建议一周用一次深度调理的发膜,以解决包括易断或发黄在内的各种头发问题。

Step 6: Don’t rub hair dry. Mr. Robin demonstrated a Moroccan tip he learned to detangle and lift the roots: “Flip your head upside down and run a towel over it from both sides quickly,” he said. The towel’s flicking motion will also remove excess water.

步骤6:不要用揉搓的方式把头发弄干。罗宾展示了他学到的一种理顺头发和改善根部头发的摩洛哥办法:“垂下头,拿一条毛巾从两侧快速压过头发,”他说。轻抖毛巾的动作也能去除多余的水分。

Bonus Tip: Mr. Robin acknowledges that his washing process may take more time than the usual regimens, but that if done correctly, the method can make each shampoo last longer. “Most women should not be washing more than twice a week,” he said.

额外的小贴士:罗宾承认按照他的程序洗头,所需时间可能比通常的方式更长,但如果操作得当,这种方法可以让每次洗头维持的时间更久。“大多数女性每周洗头的次数不应该超过两次,”他说。

That is not to say that dry shampoo is the answer for the other days. “Dry shampoo should only give you maybe one night or one day extra,” he said. Instead, especially for active women, a few spritzes of a vinegar solution at the roots will remove oil. (Just add five drops of apple cider vinegar to five ounces of water in a spray bottle.)

这不是说让你在其他的时间用干洗解决问题。“干洗应该只能让你多维持一晚或一天,”他说。作为替代,可以往发根部喷一些醋溶液,以去除头油,这对活动量大的女性尤其合适。(在喷雾瓶里加五盎司水,只兑入五滴苹果醋就好。)

Mr. Robin added, “Unlike dry shampoo, there’s no residue, and the vinegar is a wonderful tonic for the scalp.”

罗宾还提到,“跟干洗不一样,这种方式没有残留物,而且醋也是滋养头皮的好东西。”

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