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在纽约品味煎饼带来的愉悦

更新时间:2017-3-23 11:33:46 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Finding the Joys of Jianbing Across New York
在纽约品味煎饼带来的愉悦

In the Chinese blockbuster comedy “Jian Bing Man,” a street vendor turned caped crusader wields ingredients as weapons: raw eggs, a fistful of scallions. “It doesn’t matter who I am,” he declares. “Harmonious society is what really matters.”

在中国喜剧大片《煎饼侠》中,街头小贩出身的穿着披风的斗士挥舞着食材作为武器:生鸡蛋和一把葱花。“我是谁不重要,”他宣称,“和谐社会最重要。”

Some may argue that the humble dish he sells on the streets — jianbing, a savory crepe with an omelet underbelly and a crackly heart of fried dough — is contribution enough to the world.

可能有人会说,他在街头卖的简单小吃——下面是煎蛋饼、中间有一块松脆的炸面团的美味的煎饼——就是对这个世界的一大贡献。

Where to find this savory crepe with an omelet underbelly and a crackly heart of fried dough.
在纽约,煎饼曾经默默无闻,偶尔能在中国移民扎堆的皇后区法拉盛看到。但是现在,一些大厨正试图把它变得像玉米饼和炸豆丸子一样成为这里美食图景中常见的一部分。

It starts with batter ladled onto a round cast-iron griddle. An egg or two are not so much scrambled as scrawled across the surface. If you’re in Beijing, it’s flipped; in Shanghai, it stays put, for a crisper finish.

它的做法是,先把一大勺面糊舀到圆形铁烤盘上。然后在上面涂抹一两个鸡蛋。北京那边的做法是把它翻过来接着烤;上海那边不翻,让它更脆。

Ingredients and order vary: scattered scallions, cilantro and zha cai (pickled mustard root); fat brush strokes of tianmianjiang (sweet bean paste) and chile sauce; and fried dough in the form of fluffy batons (you tiao) or flat blistered rectangles (bao cui). The crepe is folded like a triptych, creased or cut in half and handed over still steaming.

各地所用的配料和顺序也不相同:散上葱花、香菜和榨菜;厚厚地涂上甜面酱和辣椒酱;油条或薄脆。煎饼被分成三段折起来,然后再次折叠或切成两半,热气腾腾地递给顾客。

In New York, jianbing was once elusive, occasionally spied in Flushing, Queens, home to many Chinese immigrants. But now some chefs are trying to make it as familiar and essential a part of the city’s food scene as tacos and falafel.

在纽约,煎饼曾经默默无闻,偶尔能在中国移民扎堆的皇后区法拉盛看到。但是现在,一些大厨正试图把它变得像玉米饼和炸豆丸子一样成为该市美食图景中常见和重要的一部分。

Based on a canvass of local jianbing vendors, this may be a difficult mission. I tried gummy jianbing dripping a sauce like liquid candy, and soggy jianbing with ground beef and a whiff of ketchup, and otherwise respectable jianbing hiding bouncy strips of hot dog.

根据我对本地煎饼摊贩的仔细研究,我觉得这可能是个艰巨的任务。我吃过酱汁像糖液一样往下滴的黏乎乎的煎饼,也吃过含有牛肉末和一点番茄酱的湿乎乎的煎饼,还吃过藏着弹牙热狗条的令人满意的煎饼。

A few of the better versions proved to be the work of American-born chefs not of Chinese heritage. Brian Goldberg, of Mr Bing, and Reuben Shorser, of Jianbing Company, both discovered jianbing while studying Mandarin in Beijing. They approach the dish with the zeal and reverence of the converted.

有几个更好的版本被证明出自美国出生的大厨之手,而非继承自中国的传统。老金煎饼(Mr Bing)的布赖恩·戈德伯格(Brian Goldberg)和Jianbing Company的苏永邦(Reuben Shorser)都是在北京学汉语时发现了煎饼。他们以皈依者的热情和敬畏看待这道小吃。

When Mr Bing — originally Goldberg’s Chinese Crepes in an early business plan — first opened in 2012 in Hong Kong, Mr. Goldberg hired a Beijing street vendor he calls Master Ban to train his staff. He staged a series of pop-ups in Manhattan beginning in 2015, and in January, he secured a kiosk at UrbanSpace Vanderbilt in Midtown Manhattan.

2012年,老金煎饼——在早期的商业计划中,它最初被命名为“戈德伯格的中国煎饼”(Goldberg’s Chinese Crepes)——在香港开业时,他聘请了一位他称为班师傅的北京街头摊贩来培训员工。从2015年起,他在曼哈顿开了一系列游击摊位,今年1月,他在曼哈顿中城的UrbanSpace Vanderbilt租下一个摊位。

A squad of cooks in Mr Bing caps and T-shirts monitors six griddles, firing all at once. The batter is a mixture of mung bean, rice and wheat flours, suffused with “secret” spices and gilded with a single egg, although more can be added on request. Each pancake is painted (“like calligraphy,” Mr. Goldberg said) with hoisin, sweeter than tianmianjiang, and Lao Gan Ma brand Spicy Chili Crisp sauce, also sold by the jar.

一小队戴着“老金煎饼”帽子、穿着“老金煎饼”T恤的厨师掌控着六个烤盘,它们都点着火。面糊是绿豆、大米和小麦面粉的混合物,充满“秘密”香料,涂上一个鸡蛋,不过可以根据要求再加。每个煎饼都画上(“就像书法,”戈德伯格说)比甜面酱更甜的海鲜酱和“老干妈”辣椒酱,后者也可以按罐出售。

In go cilantro and fried won ton skins, and then extravagant fillings: caramelly red barbecue pork, roast duck with lacquered skin, shredded dark-meat chicken steeped in Shaoxing wine. “It’s Americanized,” Mr. Goldberg said — less snack than sandwich, and as such delicious, if messy to eat as the crepe tears under the teeth and loses hold of what is within.

再加上香菜和炸馄饨皮,然后是奢侈的馅料:焦糖色烤猪肉、表皮油亮的烤鸭以及用绍兴黄酒泡的撕碎的深色鸡肉。“这是美国化的,”戈德伯格说。它不像小吃,更像三明治,但同样美味,只不过吃起来稍显狼狈,因为咬下去之后,煎饼会裂开,包不住里面的馅料。

(Note that in China, street vendors sell jianbing for less than a dollar. Here, it can go for as much as $15.)

(我说明一下,在中国,街头小贩的煎饼售价不到1美元,在这里,它的售价最高可达15美元)

As a consultant in Shanghai, Mr. Shorser took a griddle to his office to practice making jianbing for his Chinese colleagues. (They thought he was nuts.) He and Tadesh Inagaki, a childhood friend and college roommate, started Jianbing Company in April as a stall at Smorgasburg in Brooklyn; in the fall, they opened a lunch counter at Industry City in Sunset Park, Brooklyn.

苏永邦在上海做顾问时,往办公室带了一个烤盘,给中国同事做煎饼(他们都觉得他是疯子)。去年4月,他和童年好友兼大学室友塔德什·因那加奇(Tadesh Inagaki)在布鲁克林Smorgasburg美食市场的一个摊位创建了Jianbing Company。去年秋天,他们在布鲁克林日落公园的工业城(Industry City)开了一个午餐柜台。

They use a thick batter of wheat, corn, soy and millet flours that yields a surprisingly thin but sturdy crepe, over which one egg is cracked. (You can ask for more.) The pancake is never flipped and sheds the least oil of any jianbing I ate in New York.

他们的面糊是用小麦、玉米、大豆和小米做成的,很稠,做出来的煎饼很薄,但很结实,然后在上面涂抹一个鸡蛋(你可以多加鸡蛋)。这种煎饼不用翻,它渗出的油是我在纽约吃过的最少的。

Instead of relying on won ton skins, they make bao cui by hand, resulting in larger planks, with more blisters and snap. The chile sauce is house-made, too, as is the tianmianjiang limned with a proprietary blend of 13 spices, most pronounced among them cinnamon and star anise.

他们不用馄饨皮,而是用手工自制的薄脆,它更大,泡更多,也更脆。辣酱和甜面酱也都是自制的,甜面酱中加了13种特制的香料,其中最明显的是肉桂和八角茴香。

Zha cai is an optional but, to my mind, necessary punch of brine to offset the sweet sauce. Fillings — chicken (free-range) braised in black vinegar; beef (pasture-raised) contoured by hoisin and lime — are more subdued in flavor than Mr Bing’s but less likely to spill.

榨菜是备选,但在我看来,它的咸味是必需的,可以中和甜面酱的甜味。这里的馅料是用黑醋炖的鸡肉(鸡是自由放养的)以及用海鲜酱和青柠调味的牛肉(牛是牧场养殖的),比老金煎饼的馅料更清淡,但不那么容易溢出。

I liked what I ate, but I wasn’t sure I appreciated jianbing, in these American incarnations, as more than alternative sandwiches. Then, at the Flying Pig food truck’s new storefront in Kips Bay, I began to see the appeal of the pancake itself.

我喜欢我吃到的这些煎饼,但我觉得我可能只是把这些美国化的煎饼视为三明治的变身。后来,在飞天猪煎饼(Flying Pig)美食车的基普湾(Kips Bay)新店,我开始看到煎饼本身的魅力。

You Li, known as Yolanda, was born in northeastern China and runs the Flying Pig with Dolkar Tsering, a friend of Tibetan descent from Sichuan Province. Their batter — made of mung bean and wheat flours, and another flour that Ms. Li prefers not to divulge — is earthier and more assertive than their competitors’, and Ms. Li broke two eggs, unbidden, over my crepe, which gave it more body.

李优(音,人称约兰达[Yolanda])出生于中国东北,她和来自四川的藏族朋友多噶次仁(Dolkar Tsering,音)一起经营飞天猪。她们的面糊是用绿豆粉、小麦粉以及另外一种李优不愿透露的面粉做成的,比竞争对手们的更朴实、更浓郁,李优没问我就在我的煎饼上打了两个蛋,让饼体更厚实。

I could have eaten the crepe alone, and almost wished I had. The only additions available when I visited were garlicky sausage (but not enough of it) and pork floss, a cobwebby tangle of dried pork strands that usually taste like a cloud of salt and sugar but here was like eating air.

我本可以只吃煎饼,我现在几乎是后悔我没那样做。我去的时候,只剩下蒜肠(但是量不够了)和肉松这两种添料了。肉松是蜘蛛网状的干猪肉丝,通常吃起来像一团盐和糖的混合物,不过这里的肉松吃起来像空气。

So I turned to Queens. And at Mojoilla Fresh, along the back wall of the New World Mall food court in Flushing, I finally understood the joy of jianbing.

所以我去了皇后区,在法拉盛新世界购物中心(New World Mall)美食广场后排的魔力鲜小吃店(Mojoilla Fresh),我终于体会到煎饼带来的愉悦。

It was just a crepe, with a yellow-white scrum of egg, herbs, swabbed sauces, flagrant chile, ham and a great rectangle of bao cui that went in and emerged unbroken. It was so hot I could barely hold it. I ate it and nursed my singed fingers, dumb with happiness.

它就是一个煎饼,上面点缀着黄白两色的鸡蛋、香菜、涂酱、辣椒、火腿和一大块长方形的薄脆,它被放进去后不会被弄碎。很烫手,烫得我几乎拿不住。我吃完煎饼,抚慰我那因幸福而麻木的烫伤的手指。

It cost $5. Even cheaper was one at Express Tea Shop, in the hive of food stalls in the basement of Golden Shopping Mall in Flushing. The counter looked dingy, but the cook was eating a jianbing she had just made for herself, which I took as a good sign. It couldn’t quite match Mojoilla Fresh’s blissful collision of sour, salty and sweet, but it was $3.50 — and came with a cage-free egg.

它的售价是5美元。法拉盛黄金购物中心(Golden Shopping Mall)地下室大排档的快车道珍珠奶茶店(Express Tea Shop)的煎饼比它还便宜。那里的柜台看起来很脏,但是厨师正在吃她刚给自己做的煎饼,我觉得那是好兆头。它比不上魔力鲜酸咸甜味的美妙融合,但它只要3.5美元,而且用的是散养鸡下的蛋。

Everyone, it seems, is adapting to the times. Ms. Li told me that at the Flying Pig’s truck, immigrants from China and Mexico work side by side.

大家似乎正在适应这个时代。李优对我说,在飞天猪的美食车上,来自中国和墨西哥的移民并肩工作。

“Neither of them speaks English,” she said. “But they understand each other.”

“他们都不会说英语,”她说。“但他们能相互理解。”

If You Go

店铺信息

Mr Bing

老金煎饼

At UrbanSpace Vanderbilt, 230 Park Avenue (East 45th Street), Midtown East; 646-678-8879; mr-bing.com

中城东部公园大道(东45街)230号UrbanSpace Vanderbilt; 646-678-8879; mr-bing.com

Jianbing Company

Jianbing Company

At Industry City Food Hall, 254 36th Street, Sunset Park, Brooklyn; eatjianbing.com

布鲁克林日落公园第36街254号工业城美食广场;eatjianbing.com

The Flying Pig

飞天猪

61 Lexington Avenue (25th Street), Kips Bay; 347-828-2552; theflyingpignyc.com

基普湾列克星敦大道(第25街)61号; 347-828-2552; theflyingpignyc.com

Mojoilla Fresh

魔力鲜小吃店

In the New World Mall Food Court, 136-20 Roosevelt Avenue (Main Street), Flushing, Queens; 917-385-1966

皇后区法拉盛罗斯福大道(主街)136-20号新世界购物中心美食广场;917-385-1966

Express Tea Shop

快车道珍珠奶茶店

At the Golden Shopping Mall, 4128 Main Street (41st Road), Flushing, Queens; 646-881-5386

皇后区法拉盛主街(第41街)4128号黄金购物中心;646-881-5386

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