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白宫新闻秘书的西服有进步,但是领带呢?

更新时间:2017-3-8 10:36:51 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Sean Spicer Fixed His Suits. What About the Ties?
白宫新闻秘书的西服有进步,但是领带呢?

Sartorially speaking, these are strange days in the White House. President Trump, as has been widely noted, tapes his neckties, wears them so egregiously long that they droop to his fly and has a tendency to leave his suit jackets unbuttoned to flap in the wind. So habitually rumpled and layered is Mr. Trump’s chief strategist, Stephen K. Bannon, that he sometimes seems — as Esquire recently noted — to be wearing half the contents of his closet at once.

从服装角度而言,这些天来的白宫有些古怪。正如外界普遍注意到的,特朗普总统会把领带用透明胶带固定住,而且他扎的领带长度惊人,一直垂到裤子的前裆开口处,他还倾向于不扣西装外套纽扣,让其随风飘舞。特朗普的首席战略官史蒂芬·K·班农(Stephen K. Bannon)则习惯于穿得皱皱巴巴、里三层外三层的,有时就如《Esquire》杂志最近指出的,像是把衣橱里的半数衣服同时披挂上了。

Then there is the matter of the White House press secretary.

还要说说白宫新闻秘书的问题。

In a little over a month on the job, Sean Spicer, a thickset former Republican National Committee strategist and Navy reservist, has found himself likened in style terms to a graduate of clown college and a used-car salesman, and has also inspired Melissa McCarthy’s indelible “Saturday Night Live” impersonation of him as a gum-swallowing bully in an outsize suit and a necktie so bulky you would need a bulldozer to press it.

走马上任一个月出头的肖恩·斯派塞(Sean Spicer)曾是共和党全国委员会的战略师和海军预备役人员,身材矮壮。他把自己捣饬得好像小丑学院的毕业生和二手车推销员,给了在《周六夜现场》节目中戏仿他的梅莉莎·麦卡锡(Melissa McCarthy)《周六夜现场》以灵感——在麦卡锡那段令人难忘的表演中,她化身为一名大嚼口香糖的恶霸,身穿过大的西装,脖子上扎着大到得用推土机才能压平的领带。

Like much else about the current administration, Mr. Spicer’s appearance breaks with tradition, in this case of customs long maintained by those who serve as the president’s official mouthpiece.

像当前政府中的其他很多人一样,斯派塞的外表打破了传统,在此是指充当总统的官方喉舌的那些人长期秉承的传统。

If anyone recalls Josh Earnest, Mike McCurry or Scott McClellan — White House press secretaries who served Barack Obama, Bill Clinton and George W. Bush — it is assuredly not because they wore unfortunate neckties or suits that looked like a big brother’s ill-fitting hand-me-downs.

如果有任何人想起乔希·欧内斯特(Josh Earnest)、迈克·麦柯里(Mike McCurry)或斯科特·麦克莱伦(Scott McClellan)——为贝拉克·奥巴马(Barack Obam)、比尔·克林顿(Bill Clinton)和乔治·W·布什(George W. Bush)服务过的新闻秘书——显然不会是因为他们身上的不恰当的领带,以及看上去就像从哥哥那里接手的不合身的旧西服。

Douglas Hand, a professor of fashion law at New York University and an expert on professional dress, said that as messenger of his president’s agenda, the White House press secretary should have an ability to remain invisible.

纽约大学(New York University)时尚规则教授、职业装专家道格拉斯·汉德(Douglas Hand)说,作为传达总统的议程的信使,白宫的新闻秘书应该有能力让自己不被注意到。

“At a moment when you are communicating great grief and sorrow, your tie should not be front and center in people’s minds,” said Mr. Hand, referring to a briefing last week.

“当你传递带有强烈悲痛、悲伤之情的信息时,给人留下深刻印象的不应该是你的领带,”汉德提及上周的一场吹风会时表示。

Mr. Spicer was responding to remarks made by Bill Owens — the father of Chief Petty Officer William Owens, a Navy SEAL team member known as Ryan — who has called for an investigation into the raid in Yemen during which his son was killed. Undercutting Mr. Spicer’s solemn condolence to Mr. Owens, and his assurance that the raid was crucial to national safety, was the unusual necktie he chose: a combination of garish red, silver and baby blue stripes on a ground of electric Gatorade blue.

会上,斯派塞就比尔·欧文斯(Bill Owens)的言论做了回应。比尔·欧文斯是人称瑞安(Ryan)的美国海军海豹突击队队员、威廉·欧文斯(William Owens)军士长的父亲,他要求当局对一场在也门开展的突袭行动加以调查,他儿子就是在那场突袭中丧生的。斯派塞对欧文斯致以庄严的哀悼,并保证那场突袭对于捍卫国土安全至关重要,但其效果被他选择佩戴的不同寻常的领带冲淡了:那条领带以显眼的佳得乐(Gatorade)蓝打底,上边散布着艳红色、银色和淡蓝色条纹。

“He shouldn’t be the story, and his clothes certainly should not be the story,” Mr. Hand said.

“他不应该是焦点所在,他的服装当然也不应该是焦点所在,”汉德说。

Yet from his first days in one of the world’s most high-profile jobs, Mr. Spicer’s apparel attracted so much attention that a GoFundMe campaign was initiated to help him get a new wardrobe. (As of Friday, it had raised $685; the proceeds, the page says, will be donated to Planned Parenthood.) Reportedly at his boss’s urging, Mr. Spicer quickly switched out his original boxy jackets — the ones with shoulders seemingly inspired by either the Balenciaga designer Demna Gvasalia or else by Tom Brady’s sideline coat, with collars that floated around his neck like an oxen yoke — for marginally better fitting models.

不过,自从斯派塞出任这一受瞩目程度居于世界前列的职务之日起,其服装就备受关注,以致于有人在GoFundMe上发起众筹,要帮他弄一些新衣服。(截至周五已募集资金685美元,网页上写着,这些钱将被捐给计划生育联合会[Planned Parenthood] 。)据报道,斯派塞此前在其老板的督促下,很快就抛开了他原来的那些四四方方的西服上装——它们的肩部设计似乎受到了Balenciaga设计师德姆纳·格瓦萨里亚(Demna Gvasalia)的启发,或者以汤姆·布雷迪(Tome Brady)在场边穿的外套为灵感之源,领子像牛轭一样箍在脖子上——换上了稍微得体一些的款式。

He even, according to a local television station, visited a Washington franchise of BookATailor, a custom clothing company based in New York, and a few days later walked out with a trimmer, more form-fitting suit. Yet, despite these welcome modifications to a dress style that served as an unwitting tutorial on how not to wear a suit, Mr. Spicer has stuck to his attention-grabbing neckwear, ties not only carnival-barker garish but also manifestly wrong in other ways.

据当地电视台报道,他甚至造访了总部位于纽约的定制服装公司BookATailor在华盛顿的一家特许经营店,几天后露面时便穿了一套更精致、更贴身的西装。不过,尽管对其无意间充当了西装穿搭反面教材的着装风格做了可喜的改进,斯派塞仍然执着于佩戴吸引眼球的领带——除了颜色扎眼,像是一个嘉年华活动上的叫卖者,它们还存在其他方面的明显错误。

“Someone evidently had a word with him and he ran out and got a new suit or two, though basically I didn’t think there was anything terribly wrong with what he wore before,” said Nick Sullivan, the style director of Esquire.

“有人显然给他提了意见,于是他跑出去买了一两套新西装,不过我大体上并不认为他过去的衣服有错得离谱的地方,”《Esquire》的造型总监尼克·苏利万(Nick Sullivan)说。

Mr. Spicer’s ties, on the other hand — like many of those sold under Mr. Trump’s own label — continue to be thick and shiny: “turgid pieces of silk,” as Mr. Sullivan said, in colors like an outlandish lime green or purple covered in polka dots.

另一方面,斯派塞的领带——像很多以特朗普自己的名字为品牌售卖的领带一样——保持着厚重而又亮闪闪的风格,就如苏利万所说,以“鼓囊囊的丝绸”制成,颜色则是古怪的石灰绿或者带圆点儿的紫色之类。

Far from the most serious issue facing a Trump administration, Mr. Spicer’s distracting neckwear still troubles those who bother to address themselves to the meanings subtly coded into our clothes. “Style is semiotics,” Mr. Sullivan said. “If a man’s message is, ‘Yeah, but look at my tie,’ that seems like anything other than the actual message he should be putting across.”

这远远不是特朗普政府面临的最严重的问题,但斯派塞的让人分心的领带,依然让那些费心解读衣着中所隐藏的微妙信息的人感到困扰。“造型具有符号意义,”斯派塞说。“如果一个人传递出的信息是,‘是啊,但看看我的领带,’这似乎会让他真正应该传递的信息受到遮蔽。”

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