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伊万卡·特朗普该不该穿自己的服装品牌?

更新时间:2017-1-15 11:48:12 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Should Ivanka Trump the Woman Wear Ivanka Trump the Brand?
伊万卡·特朗普该不该穿自己的服装品牌?

A few hours after her father’s news conference on Wednesday at Trump Tower, Ivanka Trump posted a notice on her personal Facebook page officially announcing that she was taking a “formal leave of absence” from all management and operative responsibilities at her fashion brand and that she would be stepping down from her role at the Trump Organization.

周三,父亲在特朗普大厦(Trump Tower)的新闻发布会结束几小时后,伊万卡·特朗普(Ivanka Trump)便在自己的Facebook页面上发出通知,官方宣布“正式离职”,放下在其时尚品牌的所有管理和经营职责,并表示将辞去在特朗普集团(Trump Organization)的职务。

She would, she wrote, be spending the next few months concentrating on settling her children into their new lives in Washington and exploring how she could “determine the most impactful and appropriate ways for me to serve our country.”

她写道,接下来的几个月时间她将专注于让自己的孩子适应在华盛顿的新生活,并探索如何“确定最有效、最合适的方式,让我可以为国家服务”。

This follows earlier decisions to separate her personal social media accounts from those of her brand. Yet in one meaningful area, Ms. Trump and her brand are harder to divide: That is, her wardrobe.

早前,她还决定将自己个人的社交媒体账号同其品牌的账号分开。但在一个意味深长的领域,伊万卡·特朗普和她的品牌是更加难以分开的:那就是她的衣着。

After all, the same day she announced she was separating Ivanka Trump the person from Ivanka Trump the brand, The Daily Mail announced she had worn an Ivanka Trump coat to her father’s news conference. Then it offered a get-the-look box and link. In case, you know, anyone wanted to buy the garment.

毕竟,在她宣布将伊万卡·特朗普本人和伊万卡·特朗普这个品牌分开的同一天,《每日邮报》(The Daily Mail)宣布,她参加父亲的新闻发布会时,穿的是伊万卡·特朗普品牌的外套。之后,该报提供了一个购买详情链接。你懂的,说不定有人想买这件衣服呢。

That turned out not to be true — according to a spokesman for Ms. Trump, the coat was by Joseph Altuzarra — but the confusion around woman and product made for some uncomfortable optics, and it raises the question: What does it mean to separate individual from company where fashion is concerned?

事实证明这一消息不属实。据伊万卡·特朗普的发言人称,那件外套出自约瑟夫·奥图扎拉(Joseph Altuzarra)。但围绕女性和产品而起的困惑产生了一些令人不舒服的喧嚣,并引发了质疑:在有关时尚的领域,将个人同公司分开是什么意思?

On the one hand, there’s something ridiculous about suggesting that Ms. Trump not wear whatever clothes are in her closet, and as the founder of a fashion brand that bears her name, presumably part of her job has been to promote said brand by wearing it — to, in effect, demonstrate her belief in her own products. So she probably has a lot of such products within reach. And it’s not her fault if some media outlet chooses to point out that she looks good and tells people how they, too, can look good.

一方面,如果让伊万卡·特朗普不能随心所欲地穿她衣橱里的衣服,这显得有些荒唐。作为一个以自己名字命名的时尚品牌的创始人,通过穿戴该品牌的产品来宣传它,想来该是她工作的一部分,实际上也是为了证明她对自家产品的信心。因此,她身边很可能有大量这样的产品。如果一些媒体渠道愿意指出她形象很好,并告诉人们,通过怎么做,他们也能变得这么好,那并不是她的错。

On the other hand, her brand is clearly built on her image: Not just her name, but her face, and what she represents. It’s selling the promise that women who wear her clothes can get a piece of her gold dust — and now that this gold dust is visible in the corridors (and news conferences) of power, that is only going to be more true. Every time she is pictured in an Ivanka Trump outfit, it is bound to give a boost to the Ivanka Trump brand. Whether or not they are technically linked.

另一方面,她的品牌显然是建立在她的形象基础上的:不仅是她的名字,还有她的脸,以及她所代表的东西。它卖的是一种承诺:女性穿她的衣服便能拥有她的些许高贵——由于可以在权力走廊(以及新闻发布会上)看到这种高贵,这种承诺只会显得更加真实。每当她被拍到身穿伊万卡·特朗普品牌的套装,这个品牌就一定会受到宣传。不管从技术上来说两者是否有任何联系。

It’s unclear whether Ms. Trump would benefit from that financially, as specifics about her monetary relationship with her brand were not included in her statement. But even if she is selling her part of the company, for a prominent member of the first family to be seen to be endorsing a brand with her own name on it is a complicated proposition. And an endorsement is exactly what an appearance in an item of clothing has become.

目前尚不清楚伊万卡·特朗普是否会因此在经济上受益,因为她的声明没有详细介绍她和她的品牌在经济上的关系。但是,即便她卖掉自己持有的该公司股份,第一家族的著名成员被人看到支持一个以自己名字命名的品牌,这也是一件复杂的事情。并且支持已经完全变成了通过穿着一件衣服来亮相。

This is a time, like it or not, of obsession with the wardrobe selections of anyone in the public eye, especially women in the public eye (their clothes are more interesting than men’s, after all). And though she has repeatedly said that she will not take a formal role in the new administration, Ms. Trump is emerging as the female face of her father’s inner circle. Simply consider the news conference, where she was the only woman from the immediate family in attendance. There’s a reason The Daily Mail did not get into the specifics of what her brothers wore. She is smart enough to know that any time she steps out of her door, someone is going to try to snap a picture and parse her clothes.

不管我们喜不喜欢,这是一个对公众人物的着装选择着迷的时代,特别是女性公众人物(毕竟她们的衣服比男性的更有意思)。尽管伊万卡·特朗普多次表示自己不会在新一届政府中担任正式职务,但她正在成为特朗普核心集团中的女性代表。就以这次新闻发布会为例,她是在场直系亲属中的唯一一名女性。《每日邮报》没有详细介绍她兄弟的着装是有原因的。她足够聪明,知道不管什么时候,只要自己一踏出家门,就会有人想拍照并分析她的着装。

You can argue that Ms. Trump is not an elected official, and thus to demand that she recuse herself from all products associated with her name is unfair punishment. You could say that if she wears, for example, an Alexander McQueen dress, as she did on election night, she is giving that brand a boost, so why shouldn’t she do the same for her own brand? You can point out that there is precedent because she wore her own line numerous times during the campaign, including to introduce her father at the Republican National Convention — but then, the latter choice was not without controversy.

你可以说伊万卡·特朗普并不是民选官员,因而要求她远离和她名字有关的一切产品是不公平的惩罚。你可以举个例子说,如果她就像在选举夜那样穿一条亚历山大·麦昆(Alexander McQueen)的裙子,从而宣传了该品牌,那么她为什么不该为自己的品牌这么做?你可以说这是有先例的,因为她在竞选期间多次穿过自己品牌的衣服,包括在共和党全国大会(Republican National Convention)上介绍自己的父亲,但是后一种选择并不是没有争议。

In part, the resulting brouhaha was, of course, because her brand then promoted that appearance with its own “get the look” link, as it famously did, without her knowledge, when she wore her own-brand bracelet during her family’s appearance on “60 Minutes.” Presumably that won’t happen any more. But brands need personalities to succeed, at whatever price point, and those personalities derive most easily from, well, a person.

在一定程度上,引发风波当然是因为她的品牌在她不知情的情况下,自己制作了“购买”链接来宣传那次亮相。这情形就跟上一次一样,在伊万卡·特朗普戴着自家品牌的手镯和家人亮相《60分钟》(60 Minutes)时,该品牌也没有告知她就这么干了,这件事轰动一时。这种情况大概不会再发生了,但品牌需要有个性才能取得成功,不管付出什么代价,而个性最容易从一个人身上获得。

A scenario in which Ivanka Trump the brand removes Ms. Trump utterly from its identity is hard to imagine. Though to be fair, the brand’s website is adorned with images and line drawings of many different kinds of women and not with Ms. Trump, so it may be possible.

难以想象伊万卡·特朗普品牌将伊万卡·特朗普从自己的身份中完全去掉的情形。不过公平地说,该品牌的网站上放了很多不同类型女性的照片和图画,但没有伊万卡·特朗普的,因此去掉她或许也是有可能的。

Either way, this is another illustration of the multiple complicated issues that are going to arise with a member of the first family who also had designs on being a fashion brand. There’s really no playbook for this, as the Ivanka team — figuring it out as it goes along — is quick to remind. In which case, the clothes question should be the next piece of the puzzle to be solved.

不管怎样,这再次提供了一个例子,证明这位曾经力图打造时尚品牌的第一家族成员将要面临众多复杂问题。伊万卡团队很快会明白——他们会在前进途中渐渐发现——这种事真的没有什么捷径。在这种情况下,着装问题应该成为下一个要解决的难题。

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