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2017的年度色彩 :带来希望的青草绿

更新时间:2016-12-10 11:35:43 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Color of 2017? Pantone Picks a Spring Shade
2017的年度色彩 :带来希望的青草绿

When the question of what will define 2017 comes up, the response most often includes words like “Trump” and “populism” and “division” and “anger.”


“Green” — not so much.


Yet if you believe the team at the Pantone Color Institute, which calls itself the “global color authority,” green will be everywhere in 2017. Not just any old green, of course: Pantone 15-0343, colloquially known as greenery, which is to say a “yellow-green shade that evokes the first days of spring.”

不过,如果你信得过自称“全球色彩权威”的潘通色彩研究所(Pantone Color Institute)的团队,在2017年,绿色将无处不在。当然了,并非任何一种绿,而是潘通15-0343,俗称青草绿,据说是一种“让人联想起早春的黄绿色调”。


That is, the Color of the Year for 2017.


Because, although you may not realize it, it turns out that green has everything to do with all of those other things. Not literally. (Despite the fact that President-elect Donald Trump clearly loves green — at least when it comes to dollars — he rarely wears it, and it doesn’t figure much in his decorating sense or what we know of his diet.) But emotionally and imaginatively.


“We know what kind of world we are living in: one that is very stressful and very tense,” said Leatrice Eiseman, the executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “This is the color of hopefulness, and of our connection to nature. It speaks to what we call the ‘re’ words: regenerate, refresh, revitalize, renew. Every spring we enter a new cycle and new shoots come from the ground. It is something life-affirming to look forward to.”

“我们知道自己生活在什么样的世界里:一个充满压力和紧张感的世界,”潘通色彩研究所的执行总监莱亚特丽斯·艾斯曼(Leatrice Eiseman)说。“这种颜色代表着希望,以及我们和自然的关联。它代表着我们平常所说的以‘re’(一再,重新)为词根的词:regenerate(再生),refresh(焕然一新),revitalize(重振),renew(更新)。每逢春天,我们都会进入一个新循环,新芽都会从泥土中冒出。它是某种令人期待的使人向上的东西。”

In other words, if 2016 was your annus horribilis, as 1992 was for Queen Elizabeth II, whether because of elections or market forces or because you were suckered by fake news on Facebook, this suggests the possibility of something different in 2017. It contains within it the promise that we can all start afresh, with a healthier attitude unfurling like a pea shoot and our feet firmly planted on the earth, as opposed to that isolated, alienating place known as cyberspace.

换言之,如果说2016年对你而言是可怕的一年——就如1992年对女王伊丽莎白二世(Queen Elizabeth II)而言一样——不论是因为选举、市场力量,还是因为Facebook上那些让你受到愚弄的假新闻,那么这种颜色就意味着事情在2017年有所不同的可能性。它蕴含着这样一种希望:我们都可以秉持像豌豆芽一样生机盎然的健康心态、脚踏实地重新来过,而不是沉迷于网络空间,一个孤立的让人产生疏离感的地方。

That may seem facile as a reading, but, well ... who ever said humanity was subtle? Certainly the psychology of color ranges from the obvious (red represents aggression; pink is swaddling and calms people) to the chiaroscuro.


When the Pantone team started noticing the creeping preponderance of green, there was a sense that perhaps it reflected what was regarded earlier this fall as the possibility of a new beginning with the first female president. But in the wake of Trump’s victory and the dissension it highlighted, Eiseman said, green “could have an even more significant meaning.”


“This particular green is an unusual color: a combination of yellow and blue, or warmth and a certain cool,” she said. “It’s a complex marriage.”


Which is probably putting what is going to have to happen in the current political climate mildly.


Pantone started choosing Colors of the Year at the turn of the millennium, in part as a way to demonstrate the psychology around what makes a color take off and to answer the question every fashion person is routinely asked, “Why is the color -___ so popular this season?”


Although the selections serve no direct consumer purpose — Pantone doesn’t sell any products related to the choices, nor does it license a symbol to other companies to denote they are using the Color of the Year — and hence the company has no way of measuring the effect of its declaration, the colors have become a sort of windsock for determining which way the national mood is blowing.


Certainly, I can attest to the fact that pretty much just minutes after the announcement is made, my inbox is inundated with emails from brands and retailers promoting products available in the Color of the Year. Airbnb was so excited, it is collaborating with Pantone for the first time next year on a Color of the Year “experience,” transforming one of its listed properties into an immersive greenery environment.


You could argue that the selection is something of a self-fulfilling prophecy, except the point is that the products are already there (otherwise they couldn’t be marketed so immediately), which supports Pantone’s contention that it has identified a burgeoning trend.


For 2015, thus, it chose Marsala, an “earthy” red-brown shade named after the fortified wine, which also happened to be the color of many politicians’ ties leading up to election year, in part because the color conveys a sense of comfort and security. For 2013, it was emerald, as seen that year on Michelle Obama in Marchesa at the Kennedy Center Honors, a dress that practically broke the internet.

因此,潘通为2015年选择的年度色彩是玛莎拉红(Marsala),一种以加烈葡萄酒玛莎拉命名的“质朴的”红棕色。在大选年即将到来的时候,很多政治人物恰好都扎起了这种颜色领带,部分是因为它给人以舒适和安全质感。2013年的年度色彩则是祖母绿,那一年,米歇尔·奥巴马(Michelle Obama)出席肯尼迪中心荣誉奖(Kennedy Center Honors)颁奖典礼时穿的祖母绿色玛切萨(Marchesa)礼服在网上红极一时。

Last year, Pantone took the radical step of choosing two colors — serenity and rose quartz (aka baby blue and light pink) — the better to reflect the gender-bending move toward “equality and fluidity” taking place across society (and fashion).


The process, which takes about nine months, is highly subjective, as Pantone admits, and more about instinct than science. Essentially, the team fans out across the globe and explores industries, to collect what they refer to as “proof points” — from car shows, on the runways, in decorator showcases and so on. At a certain stage they begin to notice meaningful overlap and narrow down the choices. Then one shade achieves critical mass.


“We ask ourselves about the message that color brings, and how we may be trying to use color to shape our experience,” Eiseman said.


Although many women may recoil when they are told green is the Color of the Year — some think it is hard to wear — Julianne Moore wore leaf green Givenchy to the 2016 Screen Actors Guild awards, and Hillary Clinton wore it on the campaign trail. (Full disclosure: The New York Times has leaf green office chairs in many of its meeting rooms and offices.) If, as fashion theory holds, three examples of anything is a trend, this is a tsunami.

当被告知年度色彩是绿色时,很多女人可能会退缩——一些人认为这是一种很难穿出去的颜色——但朱丽安·摩尔(Julianne Moore)穿着叶绿色的纪梵希(Givenchy)礼服参加了2016年美国演员工会奖颁奖典礼,希拉里·克林顿(Hillary Clinton)在一连串竞选活动中也曾把绿色穿在身上。(大揭秘:《纽约时报》的很多会议室和办公室里都摆放着叶绿色的办公椅。)如果真的像时尚理论所言,只要找出三个随便什么例子就能证明一种潮流的存在,那这简直是山呼海啸般的潮流。

“There’s a Japanese concept called ‘forest bathing,’ which says that when you are feeling stressed, one of the best things to do is go walk in the forest,” Eiseman said. “But if you can’t do that, what can you do? Bring green into your environment. Put in on your body, or in your house or near your desk. That symbolic message is very important.”


In any case, you get the idea. And if you don’t, the seeds have been planted. It’ll grow on you.