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更新时间:2016-12-10 10:39:25 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Cuba’s Surge in Tourism Keeps Food Off Residents’ Plates

HAVANA — For Lisset Felipe, privation is a standard facet of Cuban life, a struggle shared by nearly all, whether they’re enduring blackouts or hunting for toilet paper.

哈瓦那——对莉塞·费利佩(Lisset Felipe)来说,物质匮乏是古巴生活的普遍现象,一种几乎每个人都要面对的挣扎,无论是忍受停电还是四处寻购厕纸。

But this year has been different, in an even more fundamental way, she said. She has not bought a single onion this year, nor a green pepper, both staples of the Cuban diet. Garlic, she said, is a rarity, while avocado, a treat she enjoyed once in a while, is all but absent from her table.


“It’s a disaster,” said Felipe, 42, who sells air-conditioners for the government. “We never lived luxuriously, but the comfort we once had doesn’t exist anymore.”


The changes in Cuba in recent years have often hinted at a new era of possibilities: a slowly opening economy, warming relations with the United States after decades of isolation, a flood of tourists meant to lift the fortunes of Cubans long marooned on the outskirts of modern prosperity.


But the record arrival of nearly 3.5 million visitors to Cuba last year has caused a surging demand for food, causing ripple effects that are upsetting the very promise of Fidel Castro’s Cuba.

但是去年创下纪录的近350万游客促使食品需求陡增,进而产生的涟漪效应正在动摇菲德尔·卡斯特罗(Fidel Castro)当年对古巴做出的最重要的承诺。

Tourists are quite literally eating Cuba’s lunch. Thanks in part to the U.S. embargo, but also to poor planning by the island’s government, goods that Cubans have long relied on are going to well-heeled tourists and the hundreds of private restaurants that cater to them, leading to soaring prices and empty shelves.


Without supplies to match the increased appetite, some foods have become so expensive that even basic staples are becoming unaffordable for regular Cubans.


“The private tourism industry is in direct competition for good supplies with the general population,” said Richard Feinberg, a professor at the University of California, San Diego, and specialist on the Cuban economy. “There are a lot of unanticipated consequences and distortions.”

“在食物供应方面,私营旅游业和普罗大众之间是存在直接竞争的,”加州大学圣迭戈分校(University of California, San Diego)教授、古巴经济专家理查德·费恩伯格(Richard Feinberg)说。“会有许多未曾预料到的后果和变异。”

There has long been a divide between Cubans and tourists, with beach resorts and Havana hotels effectively reserved for outsiders willing to shell out money for a more comfortable version of Cuba. But with the country pinning its hopes on tourism, welcoming a surge of new travelers to feed the anemic economy, a more basic inequality has emerged amid the nation’s experiment with capitalism.


Rising prices for staples like onions and peppers, or for modest luxuries like pineapples and limes, have left many unable to afford them. Beer and soda can be hard to find, often snapped up in bulk by restaurants.


It is a startling evolution in Cuba, where a shared future has been a pillar of the revolution’s promise. While the influx of new money from tourists and other visitors has been a boon for the island’s growing private sector, most Cubans still work within the state-run economy and struggle to make ends meet.


President Raúl Castro has acknowledged the surge in agricultural prices and moved to cap them. In a speech in April, he said the government would look into the causes of the soaring costs and crack down on middlemen for price gouging, with limits on what people could charge for certain fruits and vegetables.

总统劳尔·卡斯特罗(Raúl Castro)承认农业价格暴涨,并采取行动进行限制。在今年4月的一次讲话中,他表示,政府将调查价格飞涨的原因,打击中间商漫天要价,限制某些水果和蔬菜的定价。

“We cannot sit with our hands crossed before the unscrupulous manner of middlemen who only think of earning more,” he told party members, according to local news reports.


But the government price ceilings seem to have done little to provide good, affordable produce for Cubans. Instead, they have simply moved goods to the commercial market, where farmers and vendors can fetch higher prices, or to the black market.


Havana offers stark examples of this growing chasm.


At two state-run markets, where the government sets prices, the shelves this past week were monuments to starch — sweet potatoes, yucca, rice, beans and bananas, plus a few malformed watermelons with pallid flesh.


As for tomatoes, green peppers, onions, cucumbers, garlic or lettuce — to say nothing of avocados, pineapples or cilantro — there were only promises.


“Try back Saturday for tomatoes,” one vendor offered. It was more of a question than a suggestion.


But at a nearby co-op market, where vendors have more freedom to set their prices, the fruits and vegetables missing from the state-run stalls were elegantly stacked in abundance. Rarities like grapes, celery, ginger and an array of spices competed for shoppers’ attentions.


The market has become the playground of the private restaurants that have sprung up to serve visitors. They employ cadres of buyers to scour the city each day for fruits, vegetables and nonperishable goods, bearing budgets that overwhelm those of the average household.


“Almost all of our buyers are paladares,” said one vendor, Ruben Martínez, using the Cuban name for private restaurants, which include about 1,700 establishments across the country. “They are the ones who can afford to pay more for the quality.”

“来买东西的几乎都是私营餐厅的人,”小贩鲁本· 马丁内斯(Ruben Martínez)说。古巴共有约1700家餐厅。“他们买得起质量更好的东西。”

While many Cubans have long been hardened to the reality of going without, never more than during what they call the “Special Period” after the collapse of the Soviet Union, a new dynamic that has emerged in recent months threatens the nation’s future, experts warn.


“The government has consistently failed to invest properly in the agriculture sector,” said Juan Alejandro Triana, an economist at the University of Havana. “We don’t just have to feed 11 million people anymore. We have to feed more than 14 million.”

“政府从没在农业领域进行适当投资,”哈瓦那大学(University of Havana)的经济学家胡安·亚历杭德罗·特里亚纳(Juan Alejandro Triana)说。“我们不再只是需要喂饱1100万人。我们得喂饱1400多万人。”

“In the next five years, if we don’t do something about it, food will become a national security issue here,” he added.


The government gives Cubans ration books to help provide staples like rice, beans and sugar, but they do not cover items like fresh produce. Tractors and trucks are limited and routinely break down, often causing the produce to spoil en route. Inefficiency, red tape and corruption at the local level also stymie productivity, while a lack of fertilizer reduces yield (though it keeps produce organic, by default).