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当特朗普的名字不再是个卖点

更新时间:2016-11-9 10:47:16 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

What Ivanka Trump Can’t Sell
当特朗普的名字不再是个卖点

Ivanka Trump can do it all. Throughout this interminable campaign, she has been able, with very little backlash, to promote for her $100 million apparel brand, which she markets with the female empowerment hashtag #womenwhowork, and also support her father, whose campaign is rife with misogynistic language, and who has been accused of sexual harassment by more than a dozen women.

伊万卡·特朗普(Ivanka Trump)无所不能。在这个漫长的竞选过程中,她推广自己价值1亿美元的服装品牌,几乎没有激起强烈反对。她以女性赋权标签#womenwhowork进行市场推广,同时力挺自己的父亲,后者在竞选中发表了很多歧视女性的言论,还曾被十多名女性指控性骚扰。

Ms. Trump describes herself as a feminist, and while her feminism might not be a type that Betty Friedan or Gloria Steinem would recognize, it’s a mercantile variety that is familiar to the women the Ivanka Trump brand hopes to reach.

伊万卡·特朗普自称女权主义者,但她的女权主义可能不是贝蒂·弗里丹(Betty Friedan)或格洛丽亚·斯泰纳姆(Gloria Steinem)能认出的那种,而是伊万卡·特朗普品牌希望触及的那些女性所熟悉的商业女权主义(mercantile feminism)。

The defining feature of mercantile feminism is its use of values — those of political, social and economic equality for women — to make money. And it works only for individuals and brands with real credibility.

商业女权主义最主要的特点是,利用主张女性在政治、社会和经济上平等的价值观赚钱。它仅对具有真正公信力的个人和品牌奏效。

Like many brands, including Dove, Pantene and Always, the Ivanka Trump clothing line uses a marketing slogan evocative of girl power, the somewhat nebulous #womenwhowork. Ms. Trump is selling an affordable work wardrobe, and the target is her contemporaries. Fortunately for Ms. Trump, 35, stumping on the campaign trail has given her business increased visibility. After talking about child care tax credits and maternity leave policies at the Republican National Convention, she tweeted out a link to “shop Ivanka’s look.” (The dress in the link, the one Ms. Trump wore for her speech, sold out.)

与多芬(Dove)、潘婷(Pantene)和Always等诸多品牌一样,伊万卡·特朗普的服装系列用了一个含糊的、能让人想起女权的推广口号:#womenwhowork。伊万卡销售的是消费者买得起的衣服,目标顾客是她的同龄人。幸运的是,对35岁的伊万卡来说,参加巡回竞选宣传增加了她公司的知名度。在共和党全国大会(Republican National Convention)上发表关于儿童保育税收抵免和产假政策的演讲后,她在Twitter上发了一个链接,并写上“购买伊万卡的衣服”(链接中她发表演讲时穿的连衣裙一售而空)。

But now, as the accumulated effects of her father’s campaign sink in, Ms. Trump is testing the limit of how far she can take her mercantile feminism.

但现在,随着其父竞选累积效应的逐渐减弱,伊万卡正在她的商业女权主义能走多远的检验。

“There was a tipping point with Ivanka Trump — it was right after the Billy Bush tape came out and she went back on the campaign trail,” said Shannon Coulter, a San Francisco-based marketing executive who, a few weeks ago, started a campaign, #GrabYourWallet, to boycott the 21 retailers, including Lord & Taylor, Zappos, Nordstrom and Macy’s, that carry Ms. Trump’s wares.

“伊万卡·特朗普有一个引爆点,就是在比利·布什(Billy Bush)录音曝出后,她再次参与竞选活动,” 旧金山市场营销高管香农·库尔特(Shannon Coulter)说。几周前,她发起了一个名为#GrabYourWallet的活动,抵制销售伊万卡服装的21家零售商,包括罗德与泰勒百货(Lord & Taylor)、Zappos、诺德斯特龙百货(Nordstrom)和梅西百货(Macy’s)。

Ms. Coulter’s own tweets about #GrabYourWallet have reached five million impressions on Twitter. Last month, on “Good Morning America,” George Stephanopoulos asked Ms. Trump about the boycott. Ms. Trump, who did not look pleased, said, “People who are seeking to politicize it because they disagree with the politics of my father — there’s nothing I can do to change that.”

库尔特本人关于#GrabYourWallet的推文共获得500万的阅读量。上个月,在《早安美国》(Good Morning America)中,乔治·斯特凡诺普洛斯(George Stephanopoulos)问起伊万卡对抵制活动的看法。伊万卡看起来不太高兴,她说:“有些人因为不赞同我父亲的政治观点而想把它政治化——对此,我无能为力。”

More than a week after the “Access Hollywood” tape came out, Ms. Trump issued a short statement to Fast Company saying that her father’s remarks were “offensive.” She has not said anything publicly about the women accusing Mr. Trump of unwanted sexual advances.

《走进好莱坞》(Access Hollywood)录音曝出一周多后,伊万卡对《快公司》杂志(Fast Company)发表了一条简短声明,称父亲的言论“冒犯了女性”。而关于那些指控特朗普性冒犯的女人,她从未公开发表过任何评论。

But Ms. Trump, who has also seemed to hold the promise for women of something better than her father, is showing her true colors. Young women were hoping that she was a real compatriot, that her brand and words of encouragement to women were real, not just a ploy to get us to open our wallets.

但似乎让女性觉得比其父要好的伊万卡,正在展现出自己的本色。年轻女性曾希望她真的是自己的同胞,希望她的品牌以及她鼓励女性的言论是真诚的,而不只是一个让我们打开钱包的策略。

“Initially, Ivanka seemed like the most rational and sane one of the bunch,” said 29-year-old Lindsey Ledford, a student at the University of Maryland University College. After Ms. Trump tweeted the link to the dress she wore at the Republican convention, Ms. Ledford visited Ms. Trump’s social media platforms and website. “So in that sense it worked,” said Ms. Ledford. But shortly after the “Access Hollywood” tape was released, Ms. Ledford joined the #GrabYourWallet campaign, saying that seeing the Trump name on apparel was “like a slap in the face.”

“最初,伊万卡似乎是那群人中最理智、最清醒的一个,”29岁的马里兰大学大学学院(University of Maryland University College)学生琳赛·莱德福(Lindsey Ledford)说。伊万卡在Twitter上发布自己在共和党大会上穿的裙子链接后,莱德福访问了她的社交媒体平台和网站。“所以,从那种意义上讲,它奏效了,”莱德福说。但是,在《走进好莱坞》录音曝光后不久,莱德福加入了#GrabYourWallet活动,称在衣服上看到特朗普的名字就像是“脸上挨了一记耳光”。

At the beginning of her father’s campaign, Ms. Trump had some plausible deniability that she was anything less than a heartfelt advocate for women, even if she was doing it under the aegis of her commercial brand and profiting from the exposure. But in the last month, she has violated the terms of mercantile feminism that are unspoken but clearly understood by both the buyers and the sellers.

在父亲竞选之初,伊万卡貌似可信地否认了自己不是真诚的女性支持者的说法,尽管是打着自己商业品牌的旗号,尽管她因品牌知名度提高而获利。但是,在最后一个月,她违背了商业女权主义的原则——不管对买家还是卖家,那些原则都是心照不宣的。

As it turns out, allegations of sexual assault and mercantile feminism do not mix very well. Mr. Trump now represents something that’s offensive to many women. In other words, it’s not a minor thing that can be brushed off. Yet at Fortune’s Most Powerful Women Summit in the middle of October, Ms. Trump said of her father, “I’m sure he didn’t remember” his conversation with Billy Bush. As Gabriel Sherman at New York Magazine reported recently, Ms. Trump took her father’s side after the tape became public and insisted that he had to fight back. (She also said he had to apologize.)

结果证明,性侵犯指控与商业女权主义并不能很好地兼容。在很多女性看来,特朗普代表着冒犯。换句话说,这不是一件能轻易抹掉的小事。但是,伊万卡在10月中旬《财富》杂志最具影响力女性峰会(Fortune’s Most Powerful Women Summit)上提起父亲时称,“我确信他不记得”与比利·布什的谈话。就像前不久《纽约杂志》(New York Magazine)的加布里埃尔·舍曼(Gabriel Sherman)报道的那样,录音曝光后,伊万卡站到了父亲那一边,坚持他必须反击(她也说过,他必须道歉)。

“I think what Ivanka is doing is extremely cynical,” said Kim France, the founding editor of Lucky, a shopping magazine for young women. “It’s not female empowerment, it’s business.”

“我觉得,现在伊万卡做事完全是只顾自己不顾他人,”面向年轻女性购的物杂志《Lucky》的创始主编金·弗朗斯(Kim France)说,“这不是女性赋权,而是生意。”

And the Trump campaign has apparently been good for her company. Sales in the first six months of 2016 were up almost $12 million compared with the year before, according to public filings. Her editorial director, Sarah Warren, recently said that web traffic is “through the roof” and the company’s newsletter database is 275 percent bigger than it was last year. “You couldn’t pay for this visibility,” Ms. Warren recently told a reporter.

特朗普的竞选显然有利于她的公司。公开文件显示,该公司2016年上半年的销售额比去年同期增长了近1200万美元。前不久,伊万卡的网站编辑部主任萨拉·沃伦(Sarah Warren)称,网站访问量“激增”,公司的邮件订阅数据库去比去年增长了275%。“你花钱也买不来这样的曝光度,”沃伦前不久对一名记者说。

So far, retailers have not responded to the #GrabYourWallet boycott by dropping the Ivanka Trump brand. But in a national online survey of registered voters by Morning Consult conducted after the release of the “Access Hollywood” tape, 75 percent of Democratic women said they would not purchase clothes from Ivanka Trump’s clothing line, compared with close to 60 percent of independent women and a third of Republican women. A smaller survey conducted by Brand Keys of millennial women found that 51 percent of respondents were still “extremely” or “very” willing to buy Ivanka Trump.

到目前为止,零售商并没有对#GrabYourWallet抵制活动作出反应,下架伊万卡·特朗普的服装。但是,晨间顾问(Morning Consult)在《走进好莱坞》录音曝光后对注册投票者进行的一项全国在线调查显示,75%的民主党女性表示,她们不会购买伊万卡·特朗普品牌的服装,独立党派女性中这个数字接近60%,共和党女性为三分之一。咨询公司Brand Keys对千禧一代女性进行的小规模调查发现,51%的受访者依然“特别”或“非常”愿意购买伊万卡·特朗普品牌的服装。

How will her brand fare after Nov. 8? Will she use a Trump victory or concession speech to sell more dresses? As for Ms. Coulter, she says she has no plans to end her campaign for a boycott after Election Day.

11月8号之后,她的品牌会是什么情况呢?她会利用特朗普的胜选或败选演讲去推销更多衣服吗?库尔特说,她不打算在选举日之后结束抵制活动。

When a mercantile feminist misses the mark, it can backfire with savvy consumers. “I think her biggest mistake was underestimating the intelligence of other women, as voters, consumers and humans entitled to equality,” said Ms. Ledford, who finds Ms. Trump’s products aesthetically pleasing, but has never been a customer and now doesn’t plan to on principle. “She wants to preach an ideology of female empowerment, through #womenwhowork, yet practice another, all while profiting off the very demographic she’s essentially working to oppress by helping to elect Donald Trump as president.”

当一位商业女权主义者没有实现目标时,可能会在聪明的消费者中产生反作用。“我觉得,她最大的错误是低估了其他女性作为投票者、消费者以及作为享有平等权利的人类方面的聪明程度,”莱德福说道。她觉得,伊万卡的产品在审美上令人愉快,但自己从没买过她的衣服,现在出于原则也不打算买。“她想通过#womenwhowork宣传女性赋权观念,但做的却是另一套,她谋利的对象正是那些她通过帮助唐纳德·特朗普竞选总统而欺压的人。”

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