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追随奥黛丽·赫本的足迹,享受“罗马假日”

更新时间:2016-10-20 10:28:59 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

In Rome, Using ‘Roman Holiday’ as a Guide
追随奥黛丽·赫本的足迹,享受“罗马假日”

The silver-haired gentleman in the perfectly tailored dark suit made a sweeping gesture and gave me a wistful smile.

这位绅士满头银发,身穿剪裁合体的深色西装,他挥手示意,对我露出一个伤感的笑容。

“It was right here,” he said. “1952.” He pointed to a particular spot on the floor. “That is where she stood.”

“就是在这里,”他说。“1952年。”他指着地面上的某一处。“她就站在这儿。”

If he was alive in 1952 he was a very little boy, but every guide I speak to at the Palazzo Colonna in Rome knows and reveres the spot where she stood. “Roman Holiday” was the first American film to be shot in its entirety in Italy, and “she” was Audrey Hepburn in her first film role, playing a princess on the lam who spends one glorious day in Rome with a journalist who figures he has the scoop of his career. Gregory Peck was the journalist; it didn’t take long for the scoop to turn into a brief romance.

如果他是在1952年之前出生的,那一年他肯定也只是个小男孩,但是我在罗马科隆纳宫(Palazzo Colonna)遇到的每个导游都知道她站立的那个地方,并且对之满怀敬意。《罗马假日》(Roman Holiday)是第一部完全在意大利拍摄的美国电影,而“她”则是奥黛丽·赫本(Audrey Hepburn)饰演的第一个电影角色,一位出逃的公主,在罗马同一个觉得自己挖到了毕生最大独家新闻的记者度过了美好的一天。饰演记者的是格利高里·派克(Gregory Peck);要不了多久,挖新闻就变成了一段短暂的罗曼史。

The film “Roman Holiday” is essentially a coming-of-age story about a princess and a reporter. It’s also a great tour guide for your visit to Rome.
一位出逃的公主,在罗马同一个记者度过了美好的一天。赫本饰演的安妮公主在罗马玩得如此开心,跟随她在电影中的足迹游览罗马,被电影中虚构的记忆围绕也会是最佳游玩指南。

“Roman Holiday” was released in 1953, not 1952, but in context the guide is correct: She stood there in 1952, when the film was shot. I walked over to stand where Ms. Hepburn did in the film’s final scene, as the princess prepared to bid farewell to Rome, to Mr. Peck, and to a room full of real journalists drafted to fill out the press conference — and although I have been a moviegoer since I was a child, I was not prepared for how delighted I would be to be exactly there, surrounded by make-believe memories.

《罗马假日》是在1953年上映的,而不是1952年,但是在这里,这个导游是对的:电影是在1952年拍摄的,那时她的确站在这里。我走过去,站在赫本在影片最后一幕里站过的地方,当时这位公主要同罗马、同派克以及满屋被拉来参加新闻发布会的真正记者们道别——我从小就爱看电影,然而亲身站在这里,被虚构的记忆所围绕竟会让人如此快乐,这感觉还是来得猝不及防。

This was my first visit to Rome, and I faced my own time constraints. Too many friends said that it was impossible to see Rome in the three days I had, but things worked out pretty well for Princess Ann, so I decided to go where she did. She had one day, a knowledgeable guide in Mr. Peck’s Joe Bradley, and the use of a Vespa; I had three days on foot. Much of what they saw was hundreds if not thousands of years old, so it would be right where they left it.

这是我第一次来罗马,我也有自己的时间限制。我只能在这里待三天,很多朋友都说这根本就不够,但是既然安妮公主都玩得很开心,我也决定去她去过的那些地方。她有一天时间、一个像派克饰演的乔·布拉德利(Joe Bradley)那样博学多才的向导,以及一辆伟士牌(Vespa)机车;我则有三天时间,需要步行。他们看过的大部分景点不是有着几千年历史,就是已经存在了数百年,所以应该还和当年一样。

Joe Bradley was looking for great copy and photo ops, while the princess, by her own admission, wanted to “have fun — and maybe a little excitement,” and I liked their itinerary, with its mix of ruins, food, window-shopping and dancing.

乔·布拉德利想做精彩的图文报道,而这位公主承认,她想“找乐子——或许还想得到一点刺激的感觉。”我喜欢他们的行程,去探访历史遗迹、享用美食、还有逛街和跳舞。

The Palazzo was surely the most formal of the film’s locations. I vowed to include as well the Castel Sant’Angelo, the backdrop for the wackiest scene in the film, a melee that involved music under the stars, the princess using a guitar in self-defense, an unplanned late-night swim and, this being Hollywood, a glimpse of fleeting love. I watched the film again before I left, consulted the website imdb.com for local information, and mapped the rest of my visit.

科隆纳宫肯定是影片中最正式的地点。我决心一定要去,还有圣天使堡(Castel Sant’Angelo),片中最奇异的一幕就是以它为背景,那是一团大混战:星光下放着音乐,公主用吉他当武器保护自己,计划之外的深夜游泳,还有好莱坞免不了的短暂爱情。我动身之前把这部片子重新看了一遍,从imdb.com网站上查到了当地信息,在地图上标记了余下的行程。

The Arch of Septimus Severus and the Temple of Saturn

塞维鲁凯旋门(The Arch of Septimus Severus)与萨图尔诺农神庙(Temple of Saturn)

Princess Ann fled her country’s embassy after yet another night of reviewing the next day’s schedule and a bedtime snack of milk and crackers. She escaped in the back of a truck, and Joe Bradley found her half-asleep on a low wall in front of the arch. To the right, the eight remaining pillars of the Temple of Saturn, built in 476 B.C. This location is at the northwest end of the Roman Forum, for those who come here to look at the ruins — which the princess and the journalist did not. But I had time and daylight on my side, so I lingered to consider the vast scale of the Forum. Yes, I leaned against the very wall where Ms. Hepburn pretended to slumber; not quite as good as being discovered by Mr. Peck, but it would have to do.

安妮公主在自己国家的使馆里看过翌日的行程,睡前喝了牛奶,吃了饼干后就从那里溜出来了。她逃进一辆卡车后部,乔·布拉德利发现她在拱门前的一堵矮墙上半睡半醒。在她右边是八根萨图尔诺农神庙的残存石柱,那里于公元前476年建立。提醒一下想来这里参观遗迹的人,这个地方位于古罗马广场(Roman Forum)的西北角。片中公主和和记者并没有观赏遗迹,但我有足够的时间,白天还长,所以我就在广场上漫步,盘算着它到底有多大。是的,我也靠在了赫本在拍片时靠着装睡的那堵墙上;虽然没有被派克发现那么美妙,但也只能这样了。

The Colosseum

圆形大剧场(The Colosseum)

In the days before computer-generated images, real men tore each other apart, and this is where they did it. The largest amphitheater in the world had just a few strategically placed tourists in it when a guide explained its 2,000-year history to Princess Ann and Joe. Times have changed: Occasionally the admissions lines grind to a halt because no more than 3,000 visitors can enter the Colosseum at any one time. But do not be dissuaded. I expected a quick stroll and then the real-life equivalent of a jump cut to the next scene, but the more I walked, the more I wanted to walk, to try to grasp the graceful enormity of this violent place.

在电脑生成画面技术之前的岁月里,真正的男性斗士搏命厮杀,这里就是他们动手的地方。罗马圆形大剧场是世界上最大的圆形剧场,片中一位导游给安妮公主和乔讲解它2000年历史的时候,偌大的场地里只有几个游客,他们的位置也是精心安排的。时代已经变了:如今,入口的长队不时会慢慢停下来,因为圆形大剧场只允许同时容纳3000名游客。但是不要放弃。我本来只希望匆匆逛一下,然后就去影片下一幕在现实中的取景地,但我越往前走,就越想走下去,想了解这处暴力场所优雅的巨大形貌。

Piazza della Rotonda, the Pantheon

万神殿(Pantheon)

If you were a princess in 1953, you ordered Champagne for lunch. But the G. Rocca cafe by the Pantheon is no more. Now there are two less glamorous but satisfying options: L’Antica Salumeria at Piazza della Rotonda 4 greets the hungry at the door with free samples of porchetta, and inside serves an array of sandwiches and antipasti. Just off the opposite side of the square, at Tazza d’Oro, Via degli Orfani 84, you can get the signature granita di caffè con panna, sweetened coffee frozen to a granular slush and topped with whipped cream. Ann paid no attention to the hulking Pantheon. I think that’s why I embraced her tour; sitting at a sidewalk cafe, watching the world go by, is a great way to experience a city.

如果你是一位1953年的公主,午餐时就会点香槟喝。但是罗马万神殿(Pantheon)旁边的G. Rocca餐厅如今已经不在了。现在有两个选择,虽然相对没那么富有魅力,但也足以令人满意:罗通达广场(Piazza della Rotonda)4号的L’Antica Salumeria在门前用免费试吃的猪肉卷来欢迎饥肠辘辘的游客,屋内还有许多种三明治与开胃菜。广场的另一头是Via degli Orfani 84号的金杯咖啡馆(Tazza d’Oro),那里可以买到招牌的奶油冰咖啡,这是一种冻成冰泥的甜咖啡,顶上是鲜奶油霜。安妮没去留意庞大的万神殿。我觉得正因如此,我才喜欢她的旅行;坐在路边咖啡馆里,看着世界在身边流逝,这是体验城市的好办法。

The Spanish Steps

西班牙阶梯(The Spanish Steps)

This is where Joe found Ann eating a chocolate gelato she bought from a cart at the base of the steps, in the Piazza di Spagna. She lied and said that she had run away from school, and he offered to help her plan her day of fun and excitement. The sweeping 135-step stairway, built between 1723 and 1725, links the Piazza di Spagna with the Piazza Trinità dei Monti at the top. And while you can purchase a selfie stick from any one of a dozen vendors, there was no gelato cart.

在西班牙广场(Piazza di Spagna),乔发现安妮正在吃从台阶底端的冰淇淋车买来的巧克力冰淇淋。她谎称自己是从学校跑出来的,他则提议带着她寻欢作乐一整天,找找刺激。这段漫长的135级台阶是在1723年到1725年间建造的,把西班牙广场和阶梯顶端的山上天主圣三教堂(Piazza Trinità dei Monti)连在一起。如今那里有十几个小贩,你可以从随便哪个人手上买一个自拍杆,只是冰淇淋车已经没有了。

Palazzo Colonna

科隆纳宫(Palazzo Colonna)

The director William Wyler shot “Roman Holiday” in black and white to save money, so the most startling thing about the great hall in Palazzo Colonna is that it’s saturated with color, the walls covered in paintings. It is one of the oldest and biggest private palaces in Rome; construction got underway in the 14th century and went on for five centuries, and members of the family still live here. Art lovers pack the Saturday tours — English language at noon. Or you can wander without a guide on that day only from 9 in the morning to 1:15 in the afternoon. This is where the story ends. The princess realized that Joe was a journalist and the two recited the kind of coded but passionate dialogue that only they — and the film’s audience — understood.

为了省钱,导演威廉·惠勒(William Wyler)把《罗马假日》拍成了黑白片,所以科隆纳宫大厅最让我震撼的就是它充满了色彩,四壁都挂着油画。这是罗马最古老,最宏大的私人宫殿之一;于公元14世纪开始兴建,一直持续了五个世纪,如今这个家族的成员依然居住在这里。星期六,艺术爱好者们大批赶来——这天中午有英语解说。不过在这一天里,你也可以不跟随导游,自己在宫殿内闲逛,不过开放时间只是从早9点到下午1:15。这里是故事结束的地方。公主发现乔是记者,两人交换了如同暗码但又充满激情的对话,只有他们两人才懂——当然电影观众们也能心领神会。

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