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更新时间:2016-10-13 12:04:01 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Solving the Riddle of the Slovenian Sphinx and the Pussy Bow

It was a relief to see Melania Trump at the St. Louis debate.

在圣路易斯的辩论会上看到梅拉尼娅·特朗普(Melania Trump),真是让人松了口气。

I was worried that the svelte Slovenian had gone into witness protection. Or that she was cloistered at a spa in the Swiss Alps.


Melania virtually disappeared after her Republican convention mishap purloining some Michelle Obama speech chunks. And then, after the invidious 2005 videotape of her husband and Billy Bush surfaced — with the bros bantering about groping women at a time when Melania was pregnant — there was talk that she and Donald would do a Bill and Hillary “60 Minutes”-type interview where she stood by her Cheez Doodle.

在共和党大会上,梅拉尼娅抄袭了大段米歇尔·奥巴马(Michelle Obama)的演讲词,自从那次不幸的事故之后,她基本上消失了。后来,她的丈夫与比利·布什(Billy Bush)2005年那段令人反感的录音浮出水面——录音中这两人打趣说可以对女人动手动脚,而当时梅拉尼娅正在怀孕——有人说她和唐纳德(Donald)会效仿当年的比尔(Bill)和希拉里(Hillary),上一次《60分钟》(60 Minutes)那种类型的采访节目,好支持她的芝士玉米条(Cheez Doodle)先生。

It wasn’t her style, and that idea got dropped. Melania did issue a statement calling her husband’s comments “offensive” but saying that he had her support and suggesting that everyone “focus on the important issues facing our nation and the world.”


Who knew that the important issue would be a pussy bow?

谁知这重要的问题竟是一个蝴蝶领结呢?(特朗普在不雅录音中提及pussy,英文中针对女性性器官的一个通俗说法,而蝴蝶结亦可称为pussy bow——译注)

On Sunday night, Melania swept into the hall, smiled and shook hands with her counterpart, Bill Clinton. It was a classy contrast from no handshake by Hillary and Donald at the start and the tacky tableau concocted by Donald Trump, who sat three of the women who have accused Bill of sexual assault in the front row, after debate officials rejected seating them in the Trump family box.

星期日晚上,梅拉尼娅匆匆走进大厅,微笑着同与她身份相当的比尔·克林顿(Bill Clinton)握手。这个场面相形之下真是有风范多了,因为辩论开始的时候,希拉里和唐纳德根本没有握手,而且唐纳德·特朗普还炮制了一场粗俗的活剧,他带来了三个曾经指控比尔对她们实施性侵的女人,辩论组织者拒绝让她们坐在特朗普的家人席中,他就安排她们三个坐在第一排。

The sultry former model was not wearing her usual bell-sleeved or puffy-sleeved cocktail dress in white or black. She blazed in a fuchsia blouse and matching slim pants. A pantsuit! But it was the bow on the Gucci silk crepe de Chine blouse that lit up the internet.


Cosmopolitan magazine breathlessly tweeted the debate news bulletin:


Melania Trump is Wearing an $1,100 Pussy-Bow Blouse Right Now.


Then, as is the wont with the Donald, conspiracy theories bloomed around the globe. Some on Twitter thought it was the often-mute Melania’s way of screaming her disgust with her husband’s use of the word in a crude palaver on an open mic.


“In my fantasies,” Ashley Spencer tweeted:

“在我想象中,”阿什莉·斯潘塞(Ashley Spencer)发表推文称:

In my fantasies, Melania is a subversive feminist just waiting to yell "October surprise!" & don an #ImWithHer hat.


Another tweet by Christen Clifford agreed that it was a sign of going rogue:

克利斯坦·克利福德(Christen Clifford)在推文中表示同意,这是二人离心离德的信号:

Melania is going to vote for HRC the #PussyBow and matching pants (suit) confirm that she is a double agent.


Lizabeth slyly tweeted:


Love Melania's pussy-bow blouse, wonder if her husband grabbed it from the closet for her?


Others thought the bow, echoing the word her husband used with such egregious abandon, was a way of sartorially standing by him and dissing his critics. The conservative website Breitbart, whose executive chairman, Steve Bannon, took a leave to serve as Trump’s C.E.O., proclaimed Melania’s pussy bow “amazing trolling.”

其他人觉得,这个领结暗合了她丈夫非常过分地使用的那个词,是通过服装的方式支持他,对他的批评者表示鄙夷。保守派网站布莱巴特(Breitbart)称,梅拉尼娅的蝴蝶结“是精彩的嘲讽”。该网站执行主席史蒂夫·班农(Steve Bannon)已离职去担任特朗普竞选的首席执行官。

Even the Nobel Prize-winning columnist for The Times, Paul Krugman, weighed in on the pussy-bow riot, tweeting:

就连时报的专栏作家,诺贝尔奖得主保罗·克鲁格曼(Paul Krugman)也加入了这场蝴蝶结骚乱,发推文表示:

No comment, and I am unanimous in that


Seeing the bow gave me acid flashbacks to the ’70s, when John T. Molloy wrote “Women’s Dress for Success,” advising aspiring career women to dress like men, in Oxford shirts, navy suits and floppy bow ties. I tried it once and gave the bow away, praying that women would not have to mimic men to get ahead.

一看到这个领结,我就清晰地回想起了20世纪70年代,约翰·T·莫洛伊(John T. Molloy)当时写了《女性要成功该穿什么》(Women’s Dress for Success)一文,鼓吹有抱负的事业女性应该穿得像男人,穿牛津衬衫、深蓝套装,打软领结。我试过一次,后来把领结送人了,希望女人不必为了事业前进而模仿男人。

As USA Today explained, the pussy bow got its name from the ones tied under kittens’ chins back in the ’30s. Then it became a staple in Molloy’s tips for climbing the ladder. Finally, decades later, it is repurposed as chic and flirty, the signature of Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele.

正如《今日美国》(USA Today)解释的,“pussy bow”这个名字起源于20世纪30年代在小猫脖子上系的蝴蝶结。后来它成了莫洛伊给打算向上爬的女人们提的建议里的重要组成部分。最后,过了几十年,它又带上了时髦和挑逗的涵义,成了古驰的创意总监亚历桑德罗·米歇尔(Alessandro Michele)的招牌标识。

It is so hip that the first lady has worn a pussy-bow dress. (Sorry, Melania, Michelle got there first again.)


Even men, including Hamish Bowles and the gender-fluid “young Gucci millennials,” as fashionistas call them, got in on the act.

就连男人,包括哈密什·博尔斯(Hamish Bowles)和时尚专家们口中性别模糊的“年轻的古驰千禧一代”们,也参与到这股风潮当中来。

Sunday night, things got into a swivet, with the blouse selling out instantly on Net-a-Porter, which described it as “a chic way to elevate office or weekend looks.” (This echoed what happened at the Republican convention, when Ivanka wore a blush pink dress from her label and put it up for sale the morning after she gave her speech, selling it out almost immediately.) A Trump campaign spokesman had to make a statement, telling CBS that Melania’s choice of a pussy bow was “unintentional.”


As it happened, I knew someone who could solve the riddle of the Slovenian sphinx and the pussy bow: André Leon Talley, the sultan of style, someone so influential that Kim Kardashian dressed her daughter, North West, as André, complete with billowing black caftan, for Halloween.

我碰巧知道有人可以解开这位斯洛文尼亚的斯芬克斯与她的蝴蝶领结之谜:那就是时尚之王安德烈·莱昂·塔利(André Leon Talley),他的影响力实在太大了,以至于金·卡戴珊(Kim Kardashian)在万圣节的时候,用飘逸的黑色长袍的把女儿诺斯·韦斯特(North West)打扮成安德烈的样子。

André was the stylist for Melania’s gilded age 2005 wedding to Trump at Mar-a-Lago. The wedding was going on the cover of Vogue, so André, then an editor at large, attended with Anna Wintour. He flew to Paris with Melania to shop for her wedding dress and trousseau at the top couture houses. They visited Dior, Valentino and Chanel, and ultimately Melania chose a strapless Dior John Galliano gown estimated to cost $200,000.

2005年,梅拉尼娅在马阿拉歌庄园同特朗普举办了一场镀金时代式婚礼,当时安德烈是她的造型师。婚礼照片登上了《Vogue》封面,安德烈和安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour)一起参加了婚礼,那时他还是该杂志的自由编辑。他和梅拉尼娅一起飞到巴黎,到顶尖服装店去采购婚纱和其他婚礼服装。他们去了迪奥(Dior)、华伦天奴(Valentino)和香奈儿(Chanel),最后梅拉尼娅选了一条约翰·加利亚诺(John Galliano)为迪奥设计的无肩带长裙,价格据估算在20万美元。

“Melania is an extraordinary, articulate person,” André reports. “She’s charming. She’s extremely soignée and polished. Her manners are impeccable. She was very guarded, very private, but very gracious. She was polite to all the couturiers. She wasn’t walking in as an ‘I’m the future Mrs. Trump’ diva. Listen, she is the only woman in the world who stands and walks comfortably on four-and-a-half-inch stiletto heels. Her feet are trained. Her legs are a long drink of water. She’s very much like a high, super, superglamorous Stepford Wife. She was extraordinarily groomed. Groomed to a fastidious fault. Everywhere.”

“梅拉尼娅是个非同寻常,善于表达自己的人,”安德烈说。“她很有魅力,极致优雅。她的礼仪无可挑剔。她的戒心很强,注重隐私,但是也很亲切。她对设计师们都很礼貌。她没有端着‘我是未来的特朗普夫人’那种天后架子。听着,她是世界上唯一一个能穿着11厘米的细高跟鞋还能自如站立行走的女人。她的双脚受过精心训练。她的双腿迷人极了。她很像一个高大而又超级超级迷人的‘复制娇妻’(Stepford Wife)。她的打磨程度非同寻常,简直精致得有些过于挑剔了。”

Her dress, André recalls, was “quite a concoction.” André and Melania flew down to Palm Beach on the gilt-and-white-leather Trump jet with the faux French impressionist art. “The dress took eight hours to fit at a hotel in New York,” André said. “Madame Paulette, a couture dry cleaners on Second Avenue, sent down an entire team of four people to Mar-a-Lago to steam the dress and to take care of the dress. They took over a wing in the church. Extraordinary state-of-the-art steamers.”

她的的裙子,安德烈回忆,“是了不起的作品”。安德烈和梅拉尼娅坐着特朗普那架有着镀金和白色皮革装潢,挂着法国印象派油画仿品的飞机,来到棕榈滩。“那条裙子在纽约的一家酒店里花了八个小时进行试装,”安德烈说,“第二大道上的精品时装干洗店“宝莱特夫人”(Madame Paulette)派一个四人团队来到马阿拉歌庄园,熨烫和照顾这条裙子。他们的团队占了教堂的一个侧翼。真是代表当时最高水准的杰出干洗师。”

I told André we needed to solve the mystery of the feline wife and the pussy bow. Was it a feminist signal, using a throwback style, to women upset by her husband’s reprehensible riff on the bus with Billy Bush? (Remember President Clinton sent Monica Lewinsky a signal on TV by wearing a Zegna tie she had given him?)

我告诉安德烈,我们需要揭开这位猫咪般的妻子与蝴蝶领结之谜。这是不是一个复古风格的女权主义信号,意在向那些被她的丈夫与比利·布什(Billy Bush)在车上发表的那番应受指责的言论惹恼的女性致意呢?(记得吗,克林顿总统上电视的时候戴了一条莫妮卡·莱温斯基[Monica Lewinsky]送的杰尼亚[Zegna]领带,向她发信号。)

André thinks not. “I’m inclined to think that Melania is supportive of him,” he said. “I don’t think she’s a disrupter. If anything, it was a signal of support for him, using the mot du jour and taking it to the next level with fashion.”


He was more curious about her pick of the color fuchsia paired with Louboutin “So Kate” white stiletto pumps for St. Louis in October.

他更好奇的是,她选择玫粉色搭配鲁布托(Louboutin)的“So Kate”白色细高跟鞋出席10月圣路易斯的活动。

“Odd choice,” the fashion mandarin said. “Totally out of sync. Hillary’s pantsuit was more appropriate.”