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拉夫·劳伦,希拉里的御用裁缝?

更新时间:2016-10-12 11:20:26 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Is Ralph Lauren Going to Be Hillary Clinton’s Dresser in Chief?
拉夫·劳伦,希拉里的御用裁缝?

Has Hillary Clinton found her dresser in chief? It would appear that way.

希拉里·克林顿(Hillary Clinton)找到她的首席着装师了吗?似乎如此。

While the Twitterverse was busy parsing the possible subtexts of Melania Trump’s decision to wear a hot pink Gucci pussy-bow blouse to watch her husband, Donald J. Trump, during the second presidential debate Sunday evening (given his recently revealed lewd comments about women from 2005), it was actually what Mrs. Clinton wore that seemed meaningful to me.

梅拉尼娅·特朗普(Melania Trump) 选择穿玫粉色古驰(Gucci)蝴蝶结衬衫,观看丈夫唐纳德·J·特朗普(Donald J. Trump)参加周日晚上的第二次总统候选人辩论会,Twitter界忙着分析这其中有什么潜在的涵义(背景是特朗普最近被曝出曾在2005年对女性发表不雅言辞[他当时提及pussy,英文中针对女性性器官的一个通俗说法,而蝴蝶结亦可称为pussy bow——译注]),然而,对于我来说,希拉里·克林顿的着装才更有意义。

Specifically, her use of a Ralph Lauren navy wool double-faced pantsuit with a cream shawl collar and cream wool top to better frame the jovial-serenity-atop-policy-wonk approach with which she has chosen to contrast herself with Mr. Trump.

她特意穿上了拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)奶油色披巾领深蓝羊毛双面呢长裤套装,配上奶油色羊毛上衣,营造出一种平静友好的政策专家形象,她刻意使用这种形象来和特朗普形成鲜明对比。

See, she also wore Ralph Lauren to the first presidential debate (a red trouser suit), to her speech accepting her party’s nomination at the Democratic National Convention (an ivory suit), and to her opening campaign rally on Roosevelt Island (a periwinkle blue suit). In other words, she has worn Ralph Lauren for most of her recent major televised public appearances.

你看,她在第一次总统辩论上也穿了拉夫·劳伦(红色长裤套装),在民主党全国大会上接受党内提名发表致辞时也是(象牙色套装),在罗斯福岛上的首场竞选集会上还是(宝蓝色套装)。换句话说,她在近期大部分重要电视公开亮相中都穿拉夫·劳伦。

If three is a trend, as they say, four would be what? Commitment? A very clear pattern, to say the least.

如果像他们说的,三次代表一种趋势,那么四次意味着什么?死心塌地?至少也算是一种非常清晰的模式。

This matters both because of what it means now and what it suggests about how Mrs. Clinton is using clothing to bolster her own narrative, and because of what it means for the future. After all, if she wins the election, it will be up to someone to help craft the image of the first female president of the United States. And thus far, despite the fact that a spokeswoman said the company would not comment on the relationship, evidence is beginning to build that that someone will be Mr. Lauren.

这很重要,不仅是因为现在的意义,这种着装选择暗示克林顿如何使用服装来加强自己的叙事,而且也是因为这种着装选择在未来的意义。毕竟,如果她在选举中获胜,将会有人来帮助这位美国历史上的首位女总统来打造她的形象。迄今,尽管一位女发言人说拉夫·劳伦公司对双方的关系不予评论,但是愈来愈多的证据开始表明这个帮克林顿打造形象的人将会是劳伦。

After all, during the 2008 campaign, Mrs. Clinton had no clear allegiance to any one designer. And though she has worn other designers over the many months of this campaign (including Giorgio Armani), and though during her time as secretary of state Mrs. Clinton often wore jackets from the designer Nina McLemore, the increasing choice of Mr. Lauren as the current go-to name and the ability of the clothes to flatter the candidate without calling attention to themselves make it very likely that the pattern will continue.

毕竟,在2008年的竞选中,克林顿并没有特别忠于哪位设计师。尽管她在这次漫长的竞选中也穿过其他设计师的服装(包括乔治·阿玛尼[Giorgio Armani]),而且她在担任国务卿期间也经常穿设计师妮娜·麦克勒莫尔(Nina McLemore)的外套,然而在当下,劳伦愈来愈经常地为她提供着装,他的时装既能让这位候选人看上去不错,又不至于喧宾夺主,因此这个模式很可能会继续延续下去。

Certainly it would make sense, from both a historical and a professional point of view. First ladies from Jacqueline Kennedy (with Oleg Cassini) to Nancy Reagan (with Adolfo) often allied themselves with a single designer, both as a collaborator in shaping the style of the administration, and for simplicity’s sake. President Obama said in an interview with Vanity Fair during his first term in office that the fewer decisions he had to make every day, the more he could concentrate on political priorities. And one of the easiest places for anyone to reduce options is in the wardrobe. Put simply, the president has more important things to worry about than clothes. Which doesn’t mean they don’t matter.

从历史角度和职业角度来看,这当然很有意义。从青睐奥莱格·卡西尼(Oleg Cassini)的杰奎琳·肯尼迪(Jacqueline Kennedy)到钟意阿道夫(Adolfo)的南希·里根(Nancy Reagan),第一夫人们经常与某一位设计师结盟,一方面是以合作者的身份打造该届政府的时尚风格,一方面也是为了从简起见。奥巴马总统(President Obama)在第一任期内接受《名利场》(Vanity Fair)采访时说,他每天做的决定愈少,就愈能集中精力处理政治要务。对于任何人来说,衣柜都不失为一个最容易帮你减少选择的地方。简而言之,比起操心穿什么衣服来说,总统还有更重要的事情要担心。但这不意味着服装就不重要。

Indeed, Ralph Lauren is an interesting choice for Mrs. Clinton, both aesthetically and strategically.

事实上,从美学角度和战略角度而言,拉夫·劳伦对克林顿来说都算得上一个有趣的选择。

Mr. Lauren is, perhaps, the most ur-American of American designers: a man who built an empire on the mythology of the untrammeled West, where cowboys roamed free among herds of bison, along with a kind of “Brideshead Revisited” Anglo past. He is a man who takes his bow at the end of his show in cowboy boots and jeans, who owns a ranch with tepees so luxurious they made Oprah Winfrey green with envy when she visited. A man who dresses the United States Olympic team for the opening and closing ceremonies, and who (because he got in trouble, admittedly) is now doing so in Made-in-America stuff. A man who gave $13 million in 1998 for the restoration of the original Star-Spangled Banner. Born in the Bronx, a man who started his career as a tie salesman, he is the stereotypical American success story.

劳伦或许是美国设计师中最具有早期美国(ur-American)色彩的了:他的帝国建立在一个自由自在的西部神话基础之上:牛仔们在牛群中漫游,还有一种《故园风雨后》(Brideshead Revisited)的美国白人历史感。在自己的走秀结束后,他总是身穿牛仔靴和牛仔裤出来鞠躬,他拥有一片牧场,里面有豪华的印第安人圆锥形帐篷,令来访的奥普拉·温弗瑞(Oprah Winfrey)也不禁艳羡不已。美国奥运代表团在开幕式和闭幕式上也是穿他的服装,而且他现在还在致力于推动美国制造(虽然说这是因为他遇到麻烦了)。1998年,他捐献了1300万美元,用来修复最原始的星条旗。他出生在布朗克斯,是领带推销员出身,真是典型的美国成功故事。

He is also Mrs. Clinton’s peer: He is in his mid-70s and will have experienced many of the same social and political upheavals as she has.

他也是希拉里·克林顿的同代人:他70多岁,和她经历过许多同样的社会与政治风波。

What he is not, however, is young, a hyphenate (such as Cuban-American or Asian-American), in need of the publicity, or even a very adventurous designer — all hallmarks of the choices made by the current political style-setter in the White House, Michelle Obama. Mrs. Obama has used her public profile to support new American names, to further disseminate the idea of the United States as a melting pot, and to otherwise expand the definition of a first lady.

不过,他并不年轻,不是少数族裔(比如古巴裔美国人或者亚裔美国人),不迫切需要公众曝光,甚至也不是一个特别有冒险精神的设计师——而这些他所不是的东西都是目前白宫的政治时尚奠定者,米歇尔·奥巴马(Michelle Obama)选择服装时所强调的特点。奥巴马夫人利用自己的公众形象来支持年轻的美国设计师,进一步传播美国是个大熔炉的理念,同时也拓展了第一夫人的定义。

(He is also not — duh — European, which sounds ridiculous but also distinguishes Mrs. Clinton from Mr. Trump, who favors Brioni suits, and whose wife, Melania, has worn the Italian label Fendi and the British label Roksanda Ilincic while supporting her husband, as well as the aforementioned Gucci.)

(他也不是——嗯——不是欧洲人,这听上去有点可笑,但是却能把希拉里·克林顿和青睐布里奥尼[Brioni]西装的特朗普区分开,而他的妻子梅拉尼娅在支持丈夫的时候,除了穿过上述的古驰服装,还会选择意大利品牌芬迪[Fendi]和英国品牌洛克山达·埃琳西克[Roksanda Ilincic]。)

And though it seems Mr. Lauren is the establishment choice, given both his dominant position in the fashion world and the noncontroversial politesse of his clothes — which could be construed as a bad choice for Mrs. Clinton, given the clear desire on the part of so much of the electorate to upend the Washington establishment — he has, in fact, never been much of a White House presence (a black dress worn by Mrs. Obama to a British state dinner aside). That honor often went to Oscar de la Renta, who died in 2014 but who had dressed first ladies from Mrs. Kennedy to Laura Bush during his career.

考虑到他在时尚界的重要地位,以及他的时装那种毫无争议的礼貌气质,劳伦看似是掌权者的必然选择——不过这对于克林顿来说,也可能被视为一种糟糕的选择,鉴于太多选民颠覆华盛顿权贵阶层的明确愿望——事实上,他的服装很少在白宫出现(只有一次例外,奥巴马夫人穿过一次劳伦的黑色连衣裙出席英国国宴)。为白宫着装的荣誉通常归于2014年去世的奥斯卡·德拉伦塔(Oscar de la Renta),在他的事业生涯中,曾为从肯尼迪夫人到劳拉·布什(Laura Bush)在内的多位第一夫人设计服装。

A Clinton-Lauren collaboration would have, indubitably, elegant results. She would look, if she does become president, always appropriate. Odds are that the pantsuits would continue but that they would be slightly more tailored than they have been, a bit less like coat-dresses, a little softer. Together, they would not foment sartorial revolution, or shatter the Angela Merkel mold of dressing, or change the parameters of what it means to look like a president.

毫无疑问,克林顿与劳伦的合作会产生优雅的效果。如果真能当选总统,她一定总能看上去恰如其分。长裤套装有很大的可能性会延续下去,不过在剪裁上更为精心,不会那么像风衣式裙装,变得稍微柔和一点。他们两人在一起不会煽动时装革命,也不会颠覆安格拉·默克尔(Angela Merkel)的着装模式,更不会改变总统形象的规范。

That’s probably no bad thing, since the next holder of the executive office will have other eggs to break, and there’s no reason to waste political capital on clothes. As a woman, though, I can’t help but wish that something a little more radical may happen so that the feminization of power could be clear for all to see, whether they are listening to a speech or just looking at Instagram. And maybe, if Mrs. Clinton is elected, she will decide to cast her sartorial net widely, and experiment. You never know.

这或许不是坏事,因为下一任白宫主人还有其他陈规需要打破,也没有理由在服装上浪费政治资产。尽管作为一个女人,我忍不住期待一些稍微激进一点的事情,让所有人不管是在听总统演讲或是浏览Instagram时,都可以清晰地看到权力的女性化趋势。或许,如果克林顿当选,她会考虑穿更多品牌的服装,进行更广泛的尝试。谁知道呢。

But either way, if Mrs. Clinton does become president, whoever dresses her will be designing the look of history. That, at least, we know for sure.

但是不管怎样,如果克林顿真能当选,不管是谁为她设计服装,那人都是在设计历史的样貌。至少我们清楚地知道这一点。

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