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他同时为肯尼迪夫人和梦露造型

更新时间:2016-6-12 10:03:30 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Kenneth Battelle, 86, Hairdresser to the Stars, Dies
他同时为肯尼迪夫人和梦露造型

In 1961, Vogue magazine said that “almost every famous female head in the world has gone or will go” to Kenneth, the hairdresser who created Jacqueline Kennedy’s legendary bouffant and softened the golden locks of Marilyn Monroe.

1961年,《Vogue》杂志说:“世界上几乎所有女性名人的发型都是,或者都将由”肯尼斯先生设计,他设计了杰奎琳·肯尼迪(Jacqueline Kennedy)传奇的蓬松发式,还柔化了玛丽莲·梦露(Marilyn Monroe)的金色发卷。

From the grandes dames of Manhattan society to first ladies (including Mrs. Kennedy and Rosalynn Carter) to foreign royalty to movie stars to a new generation of career women, Kenneth Battelle, who chose to be known by his first name only — and no “Mr. Kenneth,” please — was the coiffurist of choice.

肯尼斯·巴特尔(Kenneth Battelle)的客户包括曼哈顿社交界上流社会的女士们、若干位第一夫人(包括肯尼迪夫人和罗丝琳·卡特[Rosalynn Carter])、外国皇室成员、电影明星,乃至新一代事业女性。他希望人们只记住“肯尼斯”这个名字,并且不要称他为“肯尼斯先生”。

When he left his Manhattan lair in the 1960s, women around the country asked for his autograph. When Glamour mentioned his name on the cover, circulation went up, according to Karlys Daly Brown, a former beauty editor of the magazine.

20世纪60年代,他一从曼哈顿的家里出来,就会有来自全国各地的女人向他索要签名。曾任《魅力》(Glamour)杂志编辑的卡利斯·戴利·布朗(Karlys Daly Brown)说,有一次他的名字出现在杂志封面上,令当期销量剧增。

Mr. Battelle died at 86 on Sunday at his home in Wappingers Falls, N.Y., two years after he cut his last head of hair. Victoria Meekins, vice president of Mr. Battelle’s company, K.E.B. Associates, announced the death.

周日(指5月12日——编注),巴特尔先生于纽约州的瓦平格斯福尔斯逝世,享年86岁,他生前最后一次为客户美发是逝世两年前的事情。他拥有的K.E.B联合公司的副总裁维多利亚·米金斯(Victoria Meekins)宣布了这一消息。

Mr. Battelle was often called the first celebrity hairdresser, and he had a list of clients to prove it — Brooke Astor, Lee Radziwill, Katharine Graham, Judy Garland and Audrey Hepburn among them. Lucille Ball called him “God.” His contribution to his craft — he insisted that it was neither a profession nor an art — was to persuade women to rely less on permanents, bleaches and hair spray in favor of a more romantic look. He advanced the use of rollers to create natural-looking waves.

巴特尔先生经常被誉为第一位名人发型师,有他的客户名单为证——布鲁克·阿斯特(Brooke Astor)、李·洛兹维尔(Lee Radziwill)、凯瑟琳·格拉罕姆(Katharine Graham)、朱迪·嘉兰(Judy Garland)与奥黛丽·赫本(Audrey Hepburn)都名列其上。露西尔·鲍尔(Lucille Ball)说他就是“上帝”。他对自己行业的贡献(他坚持认为这不算一门职业,也不是什么艺术)就是让女人不再依赖用烫发、染发和发胶定型来让自己显得更加浪漫;而是更多使用卷发器,制造更加自然的波浪发型。

He also made his beauty parlor at 19 East 54th Street a place of fun, almost a club. The salon, filling four stories just off Fifth Avenue, was a wild montage of colors and patterns meant to evoke the circus. He served finger sandwiches and tea.

他在东区54街19号所开的美容院是个很有趣的地方,简直像个俱乐部。这个美容沙龙离第五大道不远,有四层楼,店内用狂野的色彩和图案组合装饰着,让人想起马戏团。他向来客提供手指三明治和茶。

In 1985, Enid Nemy wrote in The New York Times that Mr. Battelle had become “more than currently fashionable” — although he was still that. He was, she declared, “an institution.”

1985年,伊妮德·内米(Enid Nemy)为《纽约时报》撰文,称巴特尔先生已经“超越了流行风尚”——尽管他依然流行。她说,他已经成为“一种典范”。

In 1961, Mr. Battelle became the first and only hairdresser to receive the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award, given from 1943 to 1984. Vanity Fair said that in the 1960s only two hairdressers vied with him for tonsorial pre-eminence: Alexandre in Paris and Vidal Sassoon in London.

1961年,巴特尔先生成为第一个,也是唯一一个荣获“科蒂美国时尚评论家奖”(Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award)的美发师(该奖从1943年颁发至1984年)。《名利场》杂志说,20世纪60年代只有两位美发师在业内的重要性堪与他相提并论:巴黎的亚历山大(Alexandre)与伦敦的维达·沙宣( Vidal Sassoon)。

Kenneth Everette Battelle was born on April 19, 1927, in Syracuse. His father, a shoe salesman, and his mother divorced when he was 12, and he took jobs as a short-order cook and a dishwasher to help support his four younger sisters. He enlisted in the Navy at 17 and attended Syracuse University on the G.I. Bill. Money ran out, and he attended beauty school after seeing an ad promising $100-a-week jobs to anyone who finished a six-month course.

肯尼斯·埃弗雷特·巴特尔于1927年4月19日生于锡拉丘兹,父亲是鞋店店员。他12岁时父母离异,为了帮忙养活自己的四个妹妹,他曾经做过快餐厨子和洗碗工。17岁那年,他应征入伍海军,退役后在退伍军人安置法案(G.I. Bill)帮助下进入锡拉丘兹大学读书。这笔钱花完后,他看到一则美容学校的广告,承诺只要上完6个月的课程,就能找到周薪100美元的工作,于是就去上了这个学校。

His mother hated the idea of his becoming a hairdresser. “Red-blooded American boys don’t do that,” she would say, he recalled in an interview with The Post-Standard of Syracuse.

他母亲不希望他成为美发师。“好样的美国男孩不干这行,”他在接受锡拉丘兹媒体《Post-Standard》采访时,回忆她这么说过。

He found a job at the Starlet Beauty Bar, opposite the Greyhound bus station in Syracuse. Prostitutes made up much of the clientele, he said. His bob cut there became ragingly popular.

他在锡拉丘兹的灰狗大巴站附近的新星美容吧找到了一份工作。他说,他的客人主要是妓女,他设计的短发极其流行。

After working briefly in Miami, he arrived in New York City with $9 in his pocket in 1950. He ended up working for Helena Rubinstein. In 1954, Mrs. Kennedy, newly wed, arrived at the salon and asked for Lawrence, who usually did her hair. Lawrence was not around, so the receptionist paged Mr. Battelle.

在迈阿密短暂工作了一段时间之后,1950年,他兜里揣着9美元来到纽约,最后在海伦娜·鲁宾斯坦(Helena Rubinstein)手下工作。1954年,新婚不久的肯尼迪夫人来到这家沙龙,要熟悉的发型师劳伦斯给自己理发。但劳伦斯当天不在,于是接待员就指定巴特尔代替。

Mrs. Kennedy had what was called the Italian cut, which he felt was too short, layered and curly for her tall proportions and big bones, he told Vanity Fair in 2003. He decided to stretch it out by setting it with big rollers. But rollers as big as he wanted did not exist then, so he had some specially made, out of Lucite.

肯尼迪夫人当时留着所谓的“意大利发型”,2003年,巴特尔在接受《名利场》采访时说,当时他觉得她身材高大,这发型对她来说显得太短、太厚、太卷曲了。但是当时市面上还没有他需要的大号卷发器,于是他就用树脂特制了一些。

After John F. Kennedy became president, Mr. Battelle perfected the bouffant style that became associated with Mrs. Kennedy. He thought the look would lengthen her head and balance her broad cheekbones. He used some hair spray, but allowed a few wisps to fall away to make her look less “set.” He was nicknamed Secretary of Grooming.

约翰·F·肯尼迪当选总统后,巴特尔改进了蓬松头,最后,这个发型和肯尼迪夫人的名字联系在一起。他觉得这个发型能让她的头看起来长一些,掩饰她宽大的颧骨。他使用了一点发胶,但让几缕头发垂落下来,让她显得不那么“正式”。他还得到了“美发部长”这个绰号。

In 1958, Miss Monroe’s hair was falling out from overbleaching and overperming. Mr. Battelle fixed the problem, restoring its soft luster. Whenever she was in New York, Miss Monroe came to see him. In March 1959, he accompanied her to Chicago for the premiere of “Some Like It Hot,” the comedy she starred in with Tony Curtis and Jack Lemmon. He also groomed her for President Kennedy’s 45th-birthday rally in May 1962 at Madison Square Garden, where she sang “Happy Birthday, Mr. President.”

1958年,由于染发和电烫过度,梦露开始掉发。巴特尔解决了这个问题,令她的秀发恢复光泽。梦露去纽约时总会去找他。1959年3月,他陪她去芝加哥参加《热情如火》(Some Like It Hot)的首映,这部喜剧片是她与托尼·柯蒂斯(Tony Curtis)和杰克·莱蒙(Jack Lemmon)联袂主演的。1962年5月,她出席肯尼迪总统在麦迪逊广场花园举办的45岁生日集会时,也是他为她做的发型,正是在那次集会上她唱了《生日快乐,总统先生》(Happy Birthday, Mr. President)。

Mr. Battelle dismissed the popular belief that women confide to their hairdressers all the intimate details of their lives. No woman had told him such things in 20 years, he told The Boston Globe in 1968, and he would discourage anyone who did.

很多人相信女人会对发型师倾吐自己生活中的隐秘琐事,巴特尔先生对此不以为然。1968年接受《波士顿环球报》(The Boston Globe)采访时,他说,20年来没有任何女人对他说过自己的隐私,他也不鼓励对方这么做。

But he did allow that when he was barred from visiting Miss Monroe backstage at Madison Square Garden, he could not help thinking of the rumors he had heard that she was having an affair with the president.

但在麦迪逊广场花园的后台,他被禁止到后台去看望梦露,那一次他忍不住想,那些关于梦露和总统有染的传言究竟是不是真的。

“She said she was fearful of publicity,” he said in the Vanity Fair interview. “I don’t really know what she had in mind, but since I was doing both Marilyn and Mrs. Kennedy at the same time, I imagine it was about that.”

“她说她害怕公之于众,”他在接受《名利场》采访时说,“我其实不知道她说的是什么,但我同时为梦露和肯尼迪夫人做发型,所以觉得她指的可能是她和总统的事。”

Mr. Battelle is survived by his sisters, Joan Conine, Jane Lyon and Lynn Johnson.

巴特尔先生的妹妹琼·科奈恩(Joan Conine)、简·里昂(Jane Lyon)和琳恩·约翰逊(Lynn Johnson)都先于他去世。

There were many more chapters in Mr. Battelle’s life. In 1966, he sheared the locks of many of the women who attended Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball at the Plaza Hotel, including Pamela Harriman and Lauren Bacall. In 1969, he marketed a makeup kit to add “a delicate glow” to bosoms. In 1990, his studio burned to the ground, and because of a technicality, he recovered no insurance money. He moved to the Helmsley Palace Hotel, then to the Waldorf-Astoria.

巴特尔的生活还有其他许多篇章。1966年,他为杜鲁门·卡波特(Truman Capote)在Plaza酒店举办的“黑白舞会”中的很多女宾修剪发型,其中包括帕米拉·哈里曼(Pamela Harriman)和劳伦·白考尔(Lauren Bacall)。1969年,他推出了一种化妆设备,可以为乳房增添“微妙的光彩”。1990年,他的工作室在火灾中夷为平地,因为技术问题,他没能获得任何保险赔偿。他搬到赫尔姆利斯宫酒店居住,后来又住进了华道夫-阿斯托利亚酒店。

But Mr. Battelle never saw himself as anything more than a hard-working servant, a word he liked to use. “What I do,” he said, “is only a shampoo away from being nothing.”

但巴特尔只是把自己当做一个辛勤工作的“仆人”——这是他喜欢用的字眼:“我做的工作就好像洗发水,冲洗过后不留痕迹。”

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